Drying A Big Pine Log

[VT_Forestry]

As the title suggests, I'm looking for advice for drying a large (20" or so) pine log.  I want to make an outside bench so I am going to cut it to a 4ft length and eventually chainsaw it lengthwise so it's essentially in two equal halves, one being the seat and the other being the back.  Normally I would just cut it, slap it together and let the weather have at it but I was hoping to be able to smooth it nicely and put a finish on this so it would hold up for a few more years.  Any advice you guys might have would be greatly appreciated! 

[DanG]

I think it will dry a lot faster if you go ahead and do the splitting.

[Jeff]

First, you wont be able to dry it whole. You will have much better luck with it NOT cracking and checking if you do split it, and when you do, split it at the natural heart check.

[Tom]

find someone with a bandsaw mill to split it and it will be straight and a lot easier to finish than trying to get rid of chainsaw marks and uneven cutting.

I agree on splitting it now.

[red oaks lumber]

diddo to what tom said...

[WDH]

I suspect that if you put a light coat of anchorseal on the cut/split surface, the log would dry slower and maybe not crack or check as bad if you have the time to let it dry slow.

[boardum]

As everyone said, split it first.

Having done alot of this with cedar and fir. stand the two halves on end for a while till they quit wicking water. When the ends do dry up, then anchor seal them. just don't miss the window between when they get dry and start cracking.

[VT_Forestry]

Looks like splitting first is the way to go, which is what I suspected.  I have a loop of ripping chain that I was going to use since I don't have access to a bandmill, so I guess I'll try that and see what it looks like.  Thanks for all the advice!

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

I Agree With Everyone Else   

With freehand splitting sett you log on a couple of timbers to keep it 6"to12" off the ground then use a level and mark each end with a vertical line then snap a chaulk line along the length take your time ripping and you should be pretty close mate 

with getting a fine finnish just yse a 3or4" planer and the level again and keeping one end fixed and starting from one edge  sweep it across the other edge just repeat this alternating from side to side and end to end and removing alittle at a time and you will get the finnish your looking for

Good luck

Regards Chris

[solidwoods]

I make benches for indoor and outdoor use (up to 16' long).
A 20" dia would make 2 nice center sliced slabs.
Using a band mill will make the work allot easier v.s. chainsaw.
I shed air dry them for a few months at a minimum.  Then plane the top/bottom faces and work the long edges for however the design calls for.  Some are bark on some are bark removed and some have edges very rounded over.
For outdoor benches I use Mckloskies outdoor deck preservative (Wallmart $16.gl).
I turn the legs on the lathe and make a 2"dia. tenon on one end.
I use a drill holding jig with a compound angle shop made jig to drill the holes in the bottom of the bench seat.

White Pine, bookmatched set
 



Yellow Pine , our "Found in a creek look".
 




Oak bench set with 2 forked end benches
 




Ambrosia Maple cut from curved logs
 

[Tom]

Those are nice.  I love the rustic/cabin furniture.  It's functional as well as One-of-a-kind.  It requires a good eye for design, regardless of how simple it appears, but even the least experienced can get good results.  It's just a matter of looking for materials where no one else looks. 

[WDH]

That ambrosia maple is beautiful!