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Author Topic: Swing mill builders  (Read 23313 times)

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Offline bandmiller2

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Swing mill builders
« on: January 03, 2010, 06:22:28 pm »
Would it be practical to mount a swing mill blade directly on say a 15hp three phase motor shaft.??It would sure be easy to build a mill like that and eliminate the gearbox.If balanced it shouldn't be too hard to pivot horiz. to vert.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline scsmith42

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2010, 06:26:15 pm »
Frank, the problem that you'd have is the diameter of the electric motor.  You'd need either a very large diameter blade, a very long shaft on the outlet of the motor, or have to accept a limited amount of cut depth (due to the log hitting the side of the motor).

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2010, 06:30:21 pm »

 Isn't Dangerous Dan's mill direct drive, electric ???  Can't remember ??? ::)
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Offline HOOF-ER

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2010, 06:35:53 pm »
Yes his is direct drive. search his old threads. There is video of him running it.
It would simplify the process and make fewer parts.
Home built swing mill, 27hp Kawasaki

Offline Captain

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2010, 07:17:01 pm »
Nope guys, sorry but his is not direct drive but offset and the arbor is run by pulleys for the reasons Scott stated.  There is actually a vid of it in the for sale section. Tried to bring it here but I made a big mess.

Captain


Offline firecord

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2010, 08:04:32 pm »
Dan has several U Tube videos. 

http://www.youtube.com/user/SawmillShack

Offline Firebass

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2010, 01:10:13 am »
Those are heavy motors.  I've always thought it would be too much mass to swing without some type of assist or hydraulics to rotate the carriage.   If you do decide to go that route make sure you can make a guard that will work when the motor is tipped up and the blade is in the horizontal position.  Maybe by mounting the motor closer to the operator you could get enough clearance.  You definitely would have to run a separated saw shaft. 



  

Look to the left here and imagine there were a motor about 1/2 the diameter of the the blade.
<----

Firebass

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2010, 07:49:50 am »
Thanks guys, guess if it was that easy you'd see alot of that design,although look what a skillsaw does with a 71/4" blade.Probibly if a fella was content with verticle cuts not much over 2" deep it would work.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline Hilltop366

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2010, 06:12:53 pm »
I guess one factor is the motor would have to be turning the right speed.

If it does would it be possible to put the blade shaft in line with the motor shaft and use a lovejoy coupling in between them?

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2010, 06:25:55 pm »

 I have seen long shaft motors ???  How much longer would the shaft have to be ???  It could be reinforced in the front or back for a support bkt. ???  You would have the width of the hub to work with, right ???
All truth passes through three stages:
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2010, 08:31:52 pm »
Was looking at  Dans vidio, his electric motor is not that big in diameter and it appears from the pulley size to be turning the blade at motor RPM.A Lucas 10" cut blade is about 25" in diameter.Mounted on the motor shaft you could probibly cut 4" deep on a verticle cut.The simplicity of mounting the saw arbor directly to the motor shaft is hard to ignore even if their was a loss of cutting depth.The arbor could be made from a taperloc sprocket with the end of the motor shaft drilled and tapped for a safety bolt.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline James P.

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2010, 08:56:48 pm »
Bandmiller2, the old direct drive tablesaws used a smaller diameter motor but most were 3 phase. I don't know the largest ever used that way, but I have seen 5hp that weren't more than 8 inches in diameter. I think they make up for it in length.

Offline mick

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #12 on: January 05, 2010, 01:48:10 pm »
I have a 15 hp 3 phase high speed steel cutting saw that I would like to use for a swingmill.
It has a blade attached directly to the shaft. The motor is long and thin. My plan is to buy a Lucas blade and machine up an adaptor which fits to the shaft and also mounts the Lucas blade. Does anyone know what RPM a Lucas mill blade runs at while operating.

Mick.

Offline tjhammer

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #13 on: January 24, 2010, 12:02:21 pm »
have been watching the different swing mill forums from jan, last year am now gathering up mp stuff for a build,I am going by firebass data maybe not as heavy but I do have a two in truck axel for my arbor(man a cat couldn't scratch it) can't decide on a lucas 8 in or a captain 10 in,anyone got any thoughts on gearing I found a 1to1 gear box fire bass whats the outside dia. of your timming pulleys
the hammer
hammer

Offline sigidi

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2010, 06:46:50 pm »
Wow! where do I start?

OK, my first thoughts if you want a swingblade it is for it's flexibility, limiting it to cut 4" makes it very restricted and if you're going to all the R&D effort why restrict yaself so much?

With a 4" max vertical cut a third of ya log will be QS as you are limited by the vertical max depth.

As bandmiller said Lucas 10 mills sawblades are 24.9" basically 25" or 634mm.

Skillsaw - ask yaself why they aren't produced anymore.


 My plan is to buy a Lucas blade and machine up an adaptor which fits to the shaft and also mounts the Lucas blade. Does anyone know what RPM a Lucas mill blade runs at while operating.

Mick.

From swingblade history Lucas have found a one piece drive-shaft and blade hub is definitely the safest method of attaching the blade - if/when you do machine an adaptor keep it in mind and make it from one piece. As for RPM different size blades have different speeds - hence the reason for not being able to throw a 6" onto a 10". take a look at this;



That is not from Lucas, but from the sawblade manufacturers - Central Saws here in Oz.

Anyone out there who uses a swinger will understand the need for that gas strut to dampen centrifugal forces, if one adds the weight of the engine to the swing too, wouldn't that increase the CF experienced? Besides being a mongrel to swing??

Always willing to help - Allan
www.reallmilling.com

Offline tjhammer

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #15 on: February 02, 2010, 02:29:45 pm »
firebass did tinman ever get his electric swing making saw dust yet?
hammer

Offline Firebass

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2010, 02:41:11 am »
No, If I remember right he had to give it up cause he had a little one coming and was redirecting his funds.

Sure would like to hear DangerousDan chime in with a pros and cons on the electric swingmill since he's already made one.

Firebass


Offline tjhammer

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2010, 03:44:43 pm »
firebass


seen dangerous dan on u-tube that electric was sure making some saw dustIhave a question on your saw about the timing pulleys and belt can't locate a 2in belt or pulley mcmaster carr only shows 1 1/2 belt and pulleys called them thats all they had would 1 1/2 timming belt stand the pressure and how do you tension your timing belt. have been trying to buy a 10in saw from the captain haven't made connection yet,I have read the old fourm from last year several times and learn something new every time I read it wish I could been in on it seems like it was going hot and heavy for a while and just quiet

tj
hammer

Offline Firebass

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #18 on: February 04, 2010, 12:15:52 am »
firebass


seen dangerous dan on u-tube that electric was sure making some saw dustIhave a question on your saw about the timing pulleys and belt can't locate a 2in belt or pulley mcmaster carr only shows 1 1/2 belt and pulleys called them thats all they had would 1 1/2 timming belt stand the pressure and how do you tension your timing belt. have been trying to buy a 10in saw from the captain haven't made connection yet,I have read the old fourm from last year several times and learn something new every time I read it wish I could been in on it seems like it was going hot and heavy for a while and just quiet

tj

I think I purchased my timing belt and pullly's at McGuire Bearing in Portland Oregon.   I've never had the belt stretch or slip a cog.  I seem to remember that 2" was needed for up to 25 or 30 HP.  Any good bearing supply house can give you that detail.  No need for tentioners on those type belts the belts have a polyester cord that will not stretch.  You simply set them up tight the first time and thats it.  If your going to use fixed bearing you need to figure the center distance.   Hmmm.. smiley_lit_bulb. I think its... 1/2 the Belt length minus  pitch diameter of your matched pulley size is your shaft center distance.
   As for just being quiet.... theres still a few builds going on usually everyone get bogged down at the swing mechanics.  It's tough to get that part down but once you figure it out it everything else is easy. 

I run about 2000 RPM w/a lucas Blade.  Its just a little too fast so I back off the RPM some.  If your considering going electric I would'nt run it that fast.  That is a important point that one should consider in the electric swinger debate....  A gas engine has a built in variable speed depending on what RPM you are running.  A electric motor is fixed so you must be exact on your pulley sizing to find the sweet spot (RPM) the blade likes to cut at.   Might consider it a pro: for gas engine although once you figured out the optimum RPM you could set up a electric motor to run at that speed loaded.
 

Offline tjhammer

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Re: Swing mill builders
« Reply #19 on: February 11, 2010, 02:28:25 pm »
firebass I'm having all types of set backs,I bought a piece of 4140 stock 2'' for my arbor and with the 2'' I don't have enough stock for a lip to press on a hub so I decided to go to 1-  3/4'' so now I can't get bearings with the extended shaft to lock to the saw arbor, 1 1/2 to1 15/16 is all they show, I could turn my own locking collar, in a sealed bearing I would have to go with a 45 mm shaft size for them,found a curtis gear box 135 to 1 in dodge city, I have to locate some timming pulleys I know what I want if I could see them but don't know how to ask for them,sure would like to use this truck axle for a arbor but haven't found anything  that will cut it,will have most of my material together to mock me up a demo soon,Its been cold for this part of the country sure like backing up to my wood stove.
tjhammer
hammer

 


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