Author Topic: T & G “V” panel deck ceiling (Read 3587 times)

Cedarman · « **Reply #20 on:** December 28, 2009, 04:53:12 pm »

ERC shrinks or expands so little as it changes moisture that cupping is almost non existant.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #21 on:** December 28, 2009, 04:59:49 pm »

That right there is a good point Cedarman, once it's well dried hardly significant.

Larry · « **Reply #22 on:** December 28, 2009, 05:08:09 pm »

Gary that’s a good question and something I never thought about. Summertime it’s going to be maybe 40-60 degrees hotter on the top. I suppose the air would also be less humid. I hate to depend on any finish for long term protection. Maybe WDH’s idea of putting down OSB first would help.

ERC is supposed to be pretty stable that maybe it won’t cup...at least I thought I read that here at one time. Oh my...so many worries when building a house.

$:-\$

Well...I see cedarman came to my rescue while I was typing this...thanks, I’ll be able to sleep tonight.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #23 on:** December 28, 2009, 05:12:31 pm »

Northern white has similar properties. You'd think with a tree like white cedar growing on the wettest soil it would be sloppy wet. Nope. You can make kindling from it right off the stump practically. Same with western red, it would be raining all the time in the bush on the coast, but you could get a fire going from cedar no trouble.

red oaks lumber · « **Reply #24 on:** December 28, 2009, 06:24:59 pm »

nice looking wood, measure from the wall to the header on both ends if they are the same start on one side and work you way across the ceiling. if they don't measure the same split the diffenance. on the ends of the board cut a 45 deg. to half lap the ends , no need to end on a nailer. i use a crown stapler 1-3/8 long angle into the tounge.
i'm not sure how well a florring nailer will work ,i want to know whos standing on their head to swing the hammer? or the poor sole that is holding the board. that seems like an accedent looking for a place to happen.

Larry · « **Reply #25 on:** February 25, 2010, 05:13:05 pm »

Thought I would report back since I got started.

Quote from: Larry on December 27, 2009, 04:51:40 pm

I’m not going to land the board ends on a joist. Thought it would enhance the random look (and save material). Going to put a biscuit in the ends of the board to keep things straight.

This is working well...a little time consuming cutting the biscuit slots...I need a jig.

Started on one side and split my error by using a chalk line as some suggested.

The biggest problem is my T & G is pretty tight. Wouldn’t be a problem on a wall or floor...but on a ceiling working by myself, its tedious and takes far longer than it should. I got a helper but he won’t come out until it warms up a bit more. Next time I’ll get HSS cutters made with a little extra clearance instead of standard carbide cutters.

Again as some suggested I’m nailing into the tongue. I started with a Senco 15 gauge finish nailer. Sometimes it splits the tongue. Next I tried a Bostitch crown stapler...that works better but it is a little more awkward to place the staple. Maybe I’ll get better with practice.

submarinesailor · « **Reply #26 on:** February 25, 2010, 06:04:07 pm »

Larry,

Do you, or anyone else out there, have a profile and front picture of this type of paneling. I have to drop several large poplars (30"+) in my front yard and I have been thinking about making it into some 3 bead paneling. I saw some up in Fairmont, WV not to long ago and liked it.

Bruce

Don_Papenburg · « **Reply #27 on:** February 26, 2010, 01:31:28 am »

If you nail perpendicular to the board so that the nail head is in line with the grain instead of crossing the grain it will only split once in a hundred nails as opposed to almost every one.

Larry · « **Reply #28 on:** February 26, 2010, 08:47:55 am »

Thanks, I'll try that today.

hogs4hobby · « **Reply #29 on:** March 02, 2010, 08:40:42 am »

good luck on your tounge & grove venture!! my wife & i decided about 4.5 years ago to build us a bigger house. so we had a contractor do the dry in process & we took it from there. 2000 square feet 4 bedroom 2 bath. we do not have a single peice of sheet rock in the house. only the bathrooms & laundry room has tile on floors. our intire house is tongne & groove 3/4" by 3 ,4, 5, 6, 8, 10" withs. floors ,walls ,ceilings. we did all the install our selfs and we had never done this before. but wood was easy to learn quick with.
most important when you have long runs the widths need to be exatact.
now we are past all the interior & have just got our rap around porch on 200' BY 14" and we are going to ceal the ceailing with 1"x6" lumber but it will not be tounge & groove becuase im worried about the hummidy swelling the boards

Magicman · « **Reply #30 on:** March 02, 2010, 09:40:00 am »

I stopped on the joist. Here's what mine looks like. Poplar with a pickle (whitewash) stain. The flash screws it up, but you get the "picture".

WDH · « **Reply #31 on:** March 02, 2010, 06:50:26 pm »

Now that is really beautiful.

Magicman · « **Reply #32 on:** March 02, 2010, 08:20:20 pm »

The wife and I installed this ceiling. It's all hand nailed through the tongue. Many times we nailed a 2X4 to a ceiling joist and she used it as a pry bar to close the T&G gap before I nailed.

Ernie · « **Reply #33 on:** March 02, 2010, 11:48:46 pm »

Looks good magicman, did you do the T&G yourself?

Magicman · « **Reply #34 on:** March 03, 2010, 07:46:13 am »

No, A local millwork shop straight lined and ran the T&G V groove. We put up 3 runs each day. That's all of the overhead that the wife could handle, which suited me fine also.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #35 on:** March 03, 2010, 11:42:38 am »

Yeah, working with your hands over your head and your neck tilted back gets old quick for me.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #36 on:** March 03, 2010, 12:08:19 pm »

That's called "Tablilla" down here, and most houses use it inside and out. Sheetrock isn't very common, but, an asbestos TYPE product is. Can't spit out the name right now, but, it's exactly like sheets of asbestos but it's really Gypsom. Used inside and out, also.

That Tablilla goes for around $1.00 per 34" run @ 2½ wide, more or less. It's about 7/16" thick.

Larry · « **Reply #37 on:** March 07, 2010, 05:23:32 pm »

I was talking with a friend about putting up my ceiling. He thought a HF Flooring Jack would be a useful tool. He has been using one for three years or so on floors and wouldn’t be without it now. Cautioned me that the tool can exert enough leverage to blow out a wall.

Stopped by HF the other day and picked up one...$21.99 on sale until the 25th and had one of there 20% off coupons. Think I will modify it a bit so I can just clamp it on a ceiling joist. The pushie thing looks like it might like a little modifying also.

It's typical HF crude, made in India, but looks like a very usable tool.

.

Magicman · « **Reply #38 on:** March 07, 2010, 09:56:08 pm »

Use a scrap piece of T&G for the jack to actually push against.

Larry · « **Reply #39 on:** July 29, 2010, 02:00:59 pm »

Completed. Made a few mistakes and learned a lot.

I used a 4 pound urethane deadblow hammer from Harbor Freight to seat every board. A “BoWrench” helped nudge a few of the stubborn boards into place.

The random lengths with biscuits in the end worked well. While I was doing the ceiling I got to visit a pro installing a similar ceiling. They often do biscuits but when the client has deep pockets they set up two routers and end match. They were doing one the day I visited and it defiantly is the best looking...maybe next time.

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Author Topic: T & G “V” panel deck ceiling (Read 3587 times)