Spiker- CB recommends running the e-Classics at 185 and the controller (at least mine) will not go above 195. If I wanted 180 on the house side of the plate exchanger, I'd try 185 at least.
Certainly getting the heat to the baseboard FIRST will help, if those zones are priority.
That might be: Is the E-Classic a closed loop pressurized slightly or open to atmosphere? This would make a big difference as water at 180+ exposed to atmosphere evaporates very quickly especially in winter low moisture cold temps... Boiling Pot idea, put a lid on it and it will boil at higher temp and less heat input with less BTU lost due to steam/off gassing (Heating water, 1BTU required to raise 1 gallon of water up 1 degree F.) now let the heat escape in form of steam you see that you are loosing those BTUs and will use more wood, to heat up the cold incoming water (replacing what evaporated) and the cooling effect on the rest of the remaining water when the water turns to steam/gas. While you do not need to actually make "Steam" to loose a good bit of water to evaporation when the water is heated up.
You dont have to maintain much in the way of back pressure either to increase the heat holding ability of the water without it turning to steam/evaporating. every couple PSI equals several degrees higher in water temp ill it actually turns to steam. Altitude also will play some part, some one in Denver at 1 mile above sea level will loose more water at the same temp vs someone at sea level due to decreased pressure.
Mark
