Help - Central Boiler outdoor furnace

[BillNH]

I went hunting, leaving my wife in charge of our new E-Classic 2400. I didn't empty the ash pan before I left and she didn't rake down the ash much and this led (at least we assume this is the reason) to the fire going out. To add insult to injury, the oil backup was not working properly either, so she woke up to a cold house.

I have completely cleaned the ash out of the entire fire box, ash pan, etc. I have poked around in the air holes in the fire box to dislodge creosote. I have burned the fire with the door wide open for a bit, hoping to burn off any more creosote that might be blocking air flow.

But, the darn thing will not stay lit. I am burning dry wood and had no problems starting it up in the past.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[Chuckolicious]

I haven't a clue.  I treat mine the same as I did my 2300 and it has yet to have any issues.  I don't even use the gas relight function.

Have you checked your pulse times and frequencies, or is it cold enough out that it's basically never smouldering?

[Dana]

Bill try posting this on the alternative methods board. There seem to be a lot of Central boiler posters there.

[doctorb]

Bill

When these things don't stay lit with good fuel and an adequate coal bed there's really only one thing it could be....the fire is air starved.  Are your fans working?  Are the solenoids open?  Is the chimney capped?  Usually it's the air intakes.  How loing have you owned this furnace?  Doctorb

[BillNH]

Thanks for the responses. I know it's not getting any air, but I just haven't been able to find out why yet.

I'll check the solenoids tomorrow.

I've had the secondary air tube out, so I know it's clear.

I've run the cleaning rod through the heat exchanger.

I can hear the fan working.

Chimney is not capped.

Had the stove for about 2 months and this is the first time it's gone out.

What are pulse times and frequencies? My plumber who hooked this up for me took the owner's manual home and is bringing it back in the AM.

Thanks again!

[doctorb]

Bill-

I don't know about the 2400, but the 2300 has a little trip switch to turn on the fans when the door is closed.  I would start your fire and push in this little switch (if it's the same as in my model) while the door is still open so you can observe if there's any change in the air flow in the firebox.  You should be able to see if there is airflow when the fans kick on.  It's not like a blast furnace  In fact, it can seem kinda subtle.  This air flow is vital for the stove to work correctly.  

Just got your reply to my first post.  If it's been working OK for the first 6-8 weeks, you are right, you have something blocked.  You sound very familiar with how this thing works.  If the solenoids are the last thing to be checked, don't hesistate to pull the primary one (top left for me). 

Because the fire can sit idle for extended periods awaiting the command for more heat from your house, especially when it is not so cold outside, these stoves are programed with pulse frequencies to blast a little air into the firebox on regular intervals to make sure the coals don't go out and can't be revivied.  I can't find my instruction book right now, but that's where the answer lies with regards to programing it to increase the interval and duration of the pulse.  However, I don't think that's your problem, because your difficulty keeping the fire lit would have shown up earlier in warmer months when the stove needs to fire up less often.  What happened to your 2300?  Why the switch?  Doctorb

[MudBud]

Bill, where in NH are you located?  Also, get a good fire going with the door wide open and as Doctor stated make sure the door switch makes contact, you should be able to hear and see air in your firebox.  Also once I get the fire a blazing I close the door and leave the bypass door open until it builds up temp approx. 15-20 degrees.  SOMETIMES if I get the fire going and then shut the bypass it will smother the fire, smokes heavily and never does increase heat.  When you open the door then you get a good blast of fire as the air starts it again.  Most of the time if your reaction chamber is plugged off it will smother the fire as well. 

[doctorb]

I agree with Mudbud.  I would not let the water temp increase with this method so much as to take away the signal for fan operation (upper level of your water temp range)  By the way, what is the water temp range set on your furnace.  If it's way too low, there will never be a call for the furnace to fire up so the fire will go out.

[mrcaptainbob]

Also, a call to Central Boiler's help line may be a benefit.

[doctorb]

What is the secondary air tube you mentioned.  That's a new one on me!  Doctorb

[JJ]

I had similar problem with e-2300.
The air intake tube was plugged with cresoult where it exit the water jacket.
Easy job, just a hose clamp holding on the air intake solonoid.  The one which was plugged in my case was the top one.

        JJ

[Chuckolicious]

Any resolution?  I ask because I had the exact opposite problem due to the small bottom secondary air tube solenoid staying open after shut down.  Apparently faulty solenoids can become magnetized and stick in the open position, causing the coals to burn faster and increase consumption.  It occurred to me that if a solenoid was not actuating during the pulse interval that would explain your problem.