LT28D18

[Jasperfield]

Marty or Sparks,

Can you please tell us about the new LT28 with the (liquid cooled??) diesel available in January. And is there a possibility of an air-cooled diesel available?

Thank you,

Jasperfield

[fishpharmer]

Jasperfield are you trying to start something

That sounds pretty cool, hope its true.  Where ya et WM folk?

[Jasperfield]

I'm wanting some of the WM folks to chime in, here. I need to buy a mill for Section 179 before the end of the year, and would like to transport it before the state puts salt on the roads. My decision is between the LT28 (Woodmizer's most cost-effective mill) and the LT40HDG28.

The LT28D18 is. Albeit, liquid cooled.

[MartyParsons]

Dont know? I sent a e-mail to Greg Brock the engine guy at Indy. I will let you know.

Marty

[sparks]

No air cooled diesels that I know of. We now have the Yanmar but it is liquid cooled like all the others.

[fishpharmer]

WoodMizer folks, are there any diesel options for the LT28?

[MartyParsons]

Yes I have a picture of the Water cooled Diesel on a LT15
I am not sure how to move it from the e-mail to here. If you know teach me.
Marty

[Magicman]

Can't you copy it from your email to a new folder in "My Pictures"?  Upload from there to your Gallary.

That's just my idea.

[fishpharmer]

That's a nice looking mill.

Yes I have a picture of the Water cooled Diesel on a LT15
I am not sure how to move it from the e-mail to here. If you know teach me.
Marty

[MartyParsons]

Thanks!
Some day I will figure how to get er done.

M

[zopi]

I'm not too sure about the economics of putting an expensive diesel engine on a lower end mill...I'm sure the folks at WM know better, but it seems pennywise and pound foolish to power the lower end hobby mill like that...but like I said in another thread..different folks have different needs...
I could definitly see that engine on an lt-28 with hydraulic loader arms though...depending on what the price tag is...

[sdunston]

I could definitly see that engine on an lt-28 with hydraulic loader arms though...depending on what the price tag is...

And a 2-plane log clamp (hint-hint WM)
Sam

[MartyParsons]

I guess Wood-Mizer is asking what does a customer want to purchase, would you purchase a hydraulic LT28 why not just purchase a LT40HD. What would you find value in? Is one part of the hydraulics more important than others. Loading arms, clamp or turner? Don't forget the toe boards, lets make them powered.
If you have a idea let me know. They are asking me what would you like to see. Now is a good chance.
We have been working a LT15 trailer. I hope to see it soon.

Marty

[zopi]

I know a guy runs a fully hydraulic lt-30...I'd just buy an LT-40 Hyd, and have the extra length...If I had an lt-28 or lt-40 manual, I'd want the loading arms.


The leveling system on the lt-15 is a pain..I'd love to see something that makes rough leveling easier..I've got mine set up pretty much permanent now, just because it is a pain to move..not a big deal, as it meets my needs
for now. The water jug sucks...having to reach across the mill to turn on the water is wasted motion, and it flows too much...I cut one log when I got the mill and then modified the water line so there is a shut off and regulator (needle valve) on the "drivers" side..now I can adjust water flow to the blade
almost infinitely, and the gate valve lets me start and stop the water between cuts... In a full day of sawing I'll use maybe two jugs of water..in softwood at least. I also swapped the roller guides so that the water feed is on the exit side..it's messier, but I don't have to hump wet boards..and the water line doesn't hang up on big cants...pulled it off more than once.

I'd like to see some sort of assist for loading logs on the LT-15...removable hand winch or something..little logs are no big deal, but the mill will take a 4000lb log...loading and turning that sucker is a great way to get hurt..I have a tripod now that I set up astride the mill and hang a WARN portable electric winch on to turn the big stuff, and I built a dead deck to load logs on..I either set them up there with the tractor/boom, or parbuckle the log up onto the dead deck and roll it out to the mill.

Best thing I have done for my little mill is to keep a little light oil on all the moving parts...

I am intrigued by the 18hp diesel..3 more hp than stock, but a whole lot more torque I am guessing...I'd be interested to saw with one and know what the dollars equation is.

Is the LT-15 trailer you're talking about the current trailer kit, or are they coming out with something else?

[D Hagens]

 A suggestion for W/M, for me it would be the sawdust chute. I'm new and looking around for a mill, as in really doing my research before I buy.
 Of all the small mills that I've been looking at I've always wondered why the sawdust has to blow in to the path of the operator? Is there a logical reason for this?
 Also a question while I'm thinking, does the rope device ever go slack?

[zopi]

I could definitly see that engine on an lt-28 with hydraulic loader arms though...depending on what the price tag is...

And a 2-plane log clamp (hint-hint WM)
Sam

At some point adding stuff to a smaller mill overruns the return on investment
for the mill...the 28 is about the best value in the manual mills, but the manufacturing costs skyrocket when you start adding things..especially complicated stuff like hydraulics...the loader arms are a pretty simple addition, but then you get to adding a little here and there..might as well buy
an LT-40HDG for what you spend upgrading..

it's likely to be cheaper to put that diesel on a 15 or 28 than to add hydraulic anything...the repower isn't too complicated..

[Don K]

As a previous LT 15 owner, I would like to say that it is a great workhorse of a mill that got me in the game. The only reason I upgraded is the potential in my area to go on the road. I started out straining to do most things while sawing but with time and using my old noggin I had it down to a workable science. My thanks to WM for having a durable entry level mill.

D Hagens, yes the rope will stretch some time, mostly when it is new. Just pull out the slack and tie on another knot. It pays to have a new rope on hand as one day you will need it in the middle of a log.

Don 

[Mooseherder]

There you are Don.   I guess you have been busy with that new tool.

[sdunston]

I could definitly see that engine on an lt-28 with hydraulic loader arms though...depending on what the price tag is...

And a 2-plane log clamp (hint-hint WM)
Sam

At some point adding stuff to a smaller mill overruns the return on investment
for the mill...the 28 is about the best value in the manual mills, but the manufacturing costs skyrocket when you start adding things..especially complicated stuff like hydraulics...the loader arms are a pretty simple addition, but then you get to adding a little here and there..might as well buy
an LT-40HDG for what you spend upgrading..

it's likely to be cheaper to put that diesel on a 15 or 28 than to add hydraulic anything...the repower isn't too complicated..

Being from the northeast were temps get below zero many times , a small diesel w/o glow plugs and a block heater would be useless and those small diesels are noisy, I have a 10hp diesel on my wood spliter also they have a lot more vibration, it is good on fuel and the price tag is comming way down(check out surplus center)
I still say adding a simple 2 plane clamp would make a lot of lt28 and lt40 users very happy
Sam

[Don K]

  Not as much as you would think Mooseherder. I finished a cutting job for Radar67 and have sawn some cedar components for my grandson a big yard swing but have had alot of other irons in the fire as well. I soon hope to start sawing some framing for a woodshop. Try to beat the bushes and get my portable business going. I really haven't pushed it yet. I want to finish my stuff and get alittle more comfortable with the new mill. Glad I already knew some of the ins and outs of sawing and didn't have to learn that as well.

Don

[Jim_Rogers]

The water jug sucks...having to reach across the mill to turn on the water is wasted motion, and it flows too much...I cut one log when I got the mill and then modified the water line so there is a shut off and regulator (needle valve) on the "drivers" side..now I can adjust water flow to the blade
almost infinitely, and the gate valve lets me start and stop the water between cuts... In a full day of sawing I'll use maybe two jugs of water..in softwood at least.

Have you got a picture of your setup for your water jug?

I'd like to see it as Piston and Thelittleguy could use it on their mill......

Jim Rogers

[zopi]

 



This is the only pic that shows anything...after this one I decided to add the needle valve right under the ball valve..and the lear tubing between lets me see at a glance how much water is flowing..much like an IV burette...the white tubing is PEX done with Sharkbite connectors, so they are easy to repair/replace...or modify...

[Jim_Rogers]

Thanks, I hope Piston and Thelittleguy see this....

[zopi]

Now that I have a shed over the mill, I need to put a light shining down onto the controls..even with the 'lectric lights in the shed it's hard to see the scale...I ought to make a set of moveable magnetic scales for it too..4/4, 8/4 etc....not really necessary, but could save a bit of time..

[ljmathias]

You have lights in your sawmill shed?  Wow, what a novel idea!  I guess I should try that- save my eyes from squinting at the scale after dark and trying to line things up by hand.  It's called "cutting by feel" and the only problem is getting your fingers between the blade and the log as you try try to line up for that first cut with the blade spinning.  Puts a whole new level of thrill in the sawmilling effort around here...

Lj

[zopi]

yah no lie, welcome to the 19th century...we have state of the art mills and they live in shotgun shacks...

Sorta like Bill Gates living in my workshop.

I just put the lights in too..have to pull an extension cord down the hill, but that keeps the county bubbas off my back...it's NICE!

Watch, I'll wind up with an lt-40..and it won't fit under the bloody shed...it's too long...oh well, I'll just have to build another.

[Piston]

Thanks, I hope Piston and Thelittleguy see this....

Got it!

[zopi]

LEt me know if I can help ya with it...the needle valve I used is actually a hope valve..one we use on gauge lines to be able to calibrate the gauge with an external pressure source...but almost anything will do.

[paul case]

lj and zopi,
i havent done this yet but i was thinking on the mill lights. why not mount a couple machinery lights on the mill in places that you need it.u know like tractor lights. mine has a 12 volt car battery the add on would be easy to do and i think you can get the lights for less than $10 each. if you move the mill  they will still be in place.i have good lights in the shed where my mill is buti cant read the scale very well after dark.plus the head isnt always at one place when i need to read the scale.   would it work?  pc

[amberwood]

I have just that. 12v sealed beam tractor lights mounted up high. One on the front of the motor shining down on the log/loader infront of the head, the second on the top of the mast above the scale. Pointing straight down it is fairly effective on the log/scale and control panel. I wouldnt want to start a job with them, but it enough to just finish the last log, or packup with.

DTR

[ljmathias]

Boy, do I feel stupid: not one solution but two!  My sawmill shed is only about 20' from the big barn which has an outside plug I put in to, guess what, have lights and electricity for the sawmill that was going to be under the barn roof shed.  Guess I could find an extension cord to run out to the new shed...  The 12 v lights are even better: my mill is stationary anyway so they shouldn't get in the way and I'd always have them there when I need 'em.

So, now the hard part: which wire do I use or splice into for the lights?  And where to put the on-off switch?  Since I've already admitted my reasoning skills (and lack thereof, but then, I am almost 61 now and after memory going first, reasoning is right behind...), I'll just ask for advice and sift it for what my skill level will allow me to do.  BTW, has this been described in the "useful sawmill mods" thread?  If not, why not put it there as well?

Thanks, all: again, the value of this forum is demonstrated to me for even what-should-have-been obvious things.

Lj

[zopi]

I'm planning on using LED lights...they don't draw much amperage...the LT 15 doesn't have a big laternator, so stadium lighting is out...I'll just wire it to a switch and back to the battery..chassis ground on the engine mounting plate somewhere.