Your Experience With the Makita or other Beam Saw

[Left Coast Chris]

I have been able to buy some very cheap 6x and 8x Douglas Fir timbers from a local lumber yard that was trying to reduce inventory for tax time.

My first project with them is a 24'x18' patio heavy timber awning.  I have a 7-1/4" circular saw and borrowed a 8-1/4" worm drive saw.  Its slow going sawing both sides with hand sawing to complete each cut.   I did buy a long blade for my reciprocating saw and that has sped things up a little to cut whats left after cutting both sides.

Beam saws look attractive, especially the 16" makita.   I heard the older gold colored ones are under powered.  Also the size and weight of the saw is alot.  With a few projects left and the ongoing need for choping slabs sawn on the mill my usage would probably justify buying a used saw.

Anyone use one and how did you like it?  10-1/4" saws are an option also.   Any experiences you can share would be helpful.  --thanks--

[Dave Shepard]

I've used the 16" Mak a bit. It's a good saw, but the base is lightweight, and gets knocked out of square easily. It's basically a hand held buzz-saw.

[submarinesailor]

It's a good saw, but the base is lightweight, and gets knocked out of square easily.

The Timber Framer Guild sales bases for this saw that are much better.  They are a little expensive, but I have heard from other TFG members that they are great.  Check them out at this link:  http://tfguild.stores.yahoo.net/bigmasawba.html

Bruce

[logman]

I have a 16" Makita but never use it, I hate it.  I worked at a timber frame shop and was pretty much forced to use them.  The shop had the thicker bases, mine doesn't.  I would usually use my 8 1/4 and saw around and then finish with a hand saw but would catch grief for not being as fast as the other guys.  I always do that for the frames that I cut on my own.  I just bought a Big Foot saw and love it.  I like it mainly because the blade is on the left like my other saws,
Dewalt 7 1/4 and Skil wormdrive 8 1/4, it is so much easier for me to follow the line with a left hand blade.  The guys at the shop always asked me if I was left handed, but when one of them tried my saw he had to go out and get one for himself.

[WH_Conley]

I used a 16" Makita for several months, building the "Son of Beast" roller coaster at Kings Island. Gold color. Did a good job, as long as you kept everything straight. Don't let it wander, it will bog down, just think, if it don't bog, it will eat your lunch. You can't horse this machine, if you court it it, it will do the job.

[nas]

Beam saws look attractive, especially the 16" makita.   I heard the older gold colored ones are under powered.  Also the size and weight of the saw is alot.  With a few projects left and the ongoing need for choping slabs sawn on the mill my usage would probably justify buying a used saw.

Anyone use one and how did you like it?  10-1/4" saws are an option also.   Any experiences you can share would be helpful.  --thanks--

The reason they are underpowered is that you can only get so much power from a 15A 115V circuit.  I have a BIL who framed in Germany and says the 220V saws are better.  I have used the 10-1/4 makita and found that if you cut slow and straight it cuts OK, but I would still rather use my 8-1/4 and handsaw the rest.

Nick

[Dave Shepard]

subsailor, thanks for mentioning the base offered by the Guild. I was going to mention it, but forgot to. Yes, you must cut very straight, or the saw will get hot and bind. Not fun, in my experience.

[Captain]

I've got a gold colored one.  It is difficult to cut with in anything less than "dry" timbers, no matter the blade type.  I find myself using a 7 1/4 saw to start with on all sides of a large timber and fininshing the cut with the Makita.

Captain

[logwalker]

I have one of the older ones. I think it is a 15" blade. I have the original steel tooth blade and if I keep it sharp it does a good job. Just start the cut straight so you don't have to bind the blade and it does a good job. Take it slow and let the blade do the work. I like mine. Joe

[Left Coast Chris]

Thanks for the feed back guys.  That helps allot.  My frustration level is going down as I keep practicing with the 8-1/4" worm drive skill saw.  It takes a little practice to get the cuts to match up on a consistant basis.  Finishing the cut with the reciprocating saw is working pretty good also.  Im pretty particular so I clean up the cut with a 60 grit belt sander which evens up the final surface pretty fast.

I am curious if a 8-1/2" blade will work on a 8-1/4" saw.  It looks like it will fit in the guard.    Anyone try that swap?

[Dave Shepard]

Just as a comparison, if you spend too much time flipping and sawing and flipping and hand finishing and sanding, you could just cut it off with a Stanley Sharptooth, and have a perfect cut.

[moonhill]

Thanks Dave, I was waiting for that, just make sure it is new, don't try it with an old dull one.  By the time you use three power tools it can be done with a handsaw  in less time. 

Tim