Introduction and Stihl 028 story

[kylerayk]

Hi Everyone!
I'd like to introduce myself to the forum.  I am a moderate chainsaw user, and have a newer Stihl 021, 029 Super and a recently obtained 028 AV.  Chainsaws have been in my hands since I was about 15 used mostly for farm cleanup chores and firewood production.

My current project is the 028.  I got this from my late uncle's abandoned home, so it has been stored in a rather harsh environment for many years..but I couldn't bring myself to toss it.  The saw was complete minus the bar and chain and had mildew on the outside.  The rewind spring was broken and it had some really rancid gas in the tank.  The fuel line had turned to a gooey jelly-like condition and the air filter was coated with a hard varnish like stuff.  The vibro mounts closest to the trigger handle were shot and I suspect the front ones soon will be.

I disassembled and cleaned the whole thing meticulously then ordered a new rewind spring, upper vibro mount, fuel filter, fuel line and a carb kit.  After reassembly, I tried to start it to no avail.  A helpful local shop pulled the flywheel for me so I could access the points which were rusted to the pivot pin and the contacts were really cruddy.  With patience and penetrating oil I freed up the points and removed the phenolic lever to polish the pivot pin.  I bead blasted the flywheel which had some crusty white corrosion on it.  Last night I reassembled the points and flywheel.  3 pulls on the cord and it started right up!!  Auto oiler system is working fine and the carb is adjusted as well as it can be considering there is no bar and chain on it.

I'm thinking right now that it would be worth investing in the other 3 vibro mounts and a new bar and chain.

After searching this forum and looking on ebay, it seems that this is still a venerable saw worth hanging on to.  What are your thoughts??

[joe_indi]

You seem to have a fine steed in your hands. 
 
I  see no reason for the hesitation to invest is some  horse shoes and a saddle for it.


Joe

[beenthere]

kyler
Welcome to the forum.
Seems your decision to finish this saw is a no-brainer.    Nice job sticking to it, and for your hard work, just as well put the "horse shoes and saddle" on it, as joe says. 

And a tip from my Stihl dealer, get some Rust Reaper for loosening up the parts that corrode on a chainsaw that has been setting around a long time. He says it has done wonders for him, and saved a few carbs for some of his customers. Better than penetrating oil or WD40. 

[Jim Spencer]

I have an 028, 029 and 066.  Of these saws the 028 is my favorite.  I think the weight, power, 16" chain is really perfectly matched for firewood and trimming.  I generally use the 028 for everything it will handle which is almost everything except for my logosol mill.
You will love the 028.
Jim

[kylerayk]

I had been leaning toward the 16" bar mostly because it is between the 14" on the 021 and the 20" on the 029 Super with the reasoning that it might fill the gap between the two.

Sounds like 16" is a good all-around size by consensus.

By the way, KROIL was the fluid used to loosen the rusted points pivot....my personal favorite for decades!!  I have bought cases of KROIL in the past and used it for stuffing the Christmas stockings of my male family members.  They all rave about it and have even requested it for future Christmas gift giving opportunities.

[Al_Smith]

The 028 isn't a bad firewood cutter basically it's a smaller version of the 038 but about the same weight . That one must be an older version because of the points system .

Kroil is indeed good stuff .It's the best penetrating oil I've ever used .

[beenthere]

Kroil was my favorite too, UNTIL I discovered how much better RustReaper was. I'd venture to say it is twice better than any results I had with Kroil. Give it a try.  Search RustReaper as it's inventor is Mike and a member of FF.

RR has converted a lot of people, and I just had another convert this past week. A stuck set screw on a Yager planer. He had a bench top full of wrecked allen wrenches, trying to get it loose. I'd already shown him how RR could loosen up another part, but he was convinced it couldn't do anything for this set screw. About 20 minutes of setting with RR, and he turned it out.

[Rocky_J]

I've never heard anybody compare RR with PB Blaster, which has been my favorite penetrating oil for years. And it's readily available in any auto parts store.

Al, yes the 028 is an older model. It was discontinued back in the 80's, long before Stihl revamped their model numbers. The MS280 is a completely unrelated saw introduced many years after the old 028 was discontinued.

[Al_Smith]

I've worked on a few of them,the last was an 028 Farm boss . Typical Stihl,this thing shows about 3 different ignition systems,one of them points so that takes it back a ways in time .

To me they are about like the 038-042- 048 design,outboard nylon gear drive for the oiler etc .

I can't recall ever working or even seeing a 280 because most tree men in this area would not buy that small of a saw for a ground saw .The 028's they pick up for pocket change and run them till they die  or I can't fix them anymore because they are just plumb worn out. Parts exceed the value of the saw .

[paulpieter]

Great tips fellows. Would I have had any luck with RR to remove a steel exhaust bolt out of an aluminum block or is that one of those impossible things that is never done?

[Reddog]

Would I have had any luck with RR to remove a steel exhaust bolt out of an aluminum block?

It may have given enough time and applications of RR.
Dissimilar metals are always had to get a penetrating oil to work on. Because what works on one type of corrosion doesn't always work on another.

And for Rocky J it does seem to work better than PB blaster. But as you stated PB can be bought locally.
Me, I just buy RR by the gallon now. To heck with this "a drop will do you" hose it down and go on too the next thing.

[Al_Smith]

Would I have had any luck with RR to remove a steel exhaust bolt out of an aluminum block or is that one of those impossible things that is never done?

Once they get galded in it  it can be pretty tough . You might try some heat on the aluminum . Aluminum has a higher rate of expansion than steel but you have to be carefull not to get the aluminum too hot or it will either melt or crack .

Just a tip but I personaly use a little dab of Kopper-Kote or Never-Seeze if I tear down a saw before I put it back together . Old adage --a stitch in time saves nine .