Drilling a Chainsaw Bar

[Coon]

Tom, I don't own a 30.06.  ......  But I do have a variety of other gunpowder propelled drill bits.....  The .300 UltaMag will do the trick or I could just bring out the "Iron Mule" which is a 45/70.  I would just have to figure out a way to prevent tear out. 

Gary,  I have my choice of drill presses to use.  I will see which one turns the slowest first.  Work is getting in the way currently but I am pretty sure I can find the time before the weekend. 

Just talked to my friend.  He now says there's not too much of a big hurry to get the trees cut.  He would just like to see the trees gone before it gets too cold out or we get too much snow.  Hoping to get them done this weekend.

Anyone here make their own auxillary oiler? How did you make it? Just need to get a few idears into this thick brain pan. 

Brad.

[Brucer]

I read in a book years ago that the secret is to lie bar on top of another old bar while drilling, that way the heat dissipates to the other bar which is somehow better, otherwise it may harden just as you are breaking thru, due to high heat and air cooling(or something). This method does work, not sure if its really necessary or not.

The steel in chainsaw bars is air-hardening, meaning if you get it too hot, it will get very hard just from the cooling action in the air. Most types of steel need to be quenched in liquid to harden them.

The secret is to keep the bar very cool. It's when you break through that the remaining metal gets very hot and then hardens. Lying it on top of another bar (or any piece of thick, flat metal) will draw the heat out of the one you're drilling before the temperature gets to the hardening point.

Any of the suggested methods for cooling with liquid will help -- just be especially careful when the bit is breaking through the metal.

Drilling a pilot hole is OK, but a small hole will harden just as easily as a big one, unless you keep it cool.

Using really hard bits (e.g. carbide) doesn't prevent the bar from getting too hot and hardening. The bits may cut the hardened metal without dulling, but why not save yourself the extra effort -- just keep the metal cool through the whole process.

[Magicman]

I wonder if you could punch one through there with a 30/06? 

If'n you kilt it with an '06.......how would you cook it

[PC-Urban-Sawyer]

I wonder if you could punch one through there with a 30/06? 

If'n you kilt it with an '06.......how would you cook it

If you use too high a speed to do the drilling it will cook (heat) the bar for you, course it will be a bit tuff... 

Herb

[Coon]

I think I woud BBQ it....  still tryin to figure out how long it'll take and what flavour of wood to use...   

Brad.

[nas]

I think I woud BBQ it....  still tryin to figure out how long it'll take and what flavour of wood to use...   

Brad.

Ironwood?

[woodsrunner]

I've done this very thing for my CSM. I had some folks on another forum tell me all these tricks to drill the bar. Everyone kept telling me you had to drill the hole thru the center of the bar sprocket. DON"T DO IT THAT WAY. I have yet to understand why everyone thinks that is the way to do it. This forces you to try to drill a hole thru the center of the sprocket bearing. Bearings are very hard. Why fight with it? Drill the hole behind the sprocket thru the bar only. Much easier.
You may lose a couple of inches of bar length for your csm, but, so what? Work smarter, not harder.
Scott

[btmsx]

I wonder if you could punch one through there with a 30/06? 

I know a toungstun core AP .50 BMG round will do it. Shot 3 in an old 24" husky bar at 50yrds.

[jpgreen]

These will drill through the bar like butter:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=48&PMCTLG=00

Very slow RPM with cutting oil.

[woodsrunner]

Thanks for the link!

Scott

[shinnlinger]

I drilled my bar a few years ago and didn't have the benefit of all this insight.  I turned the drill press to 4700 and burnt thru 5 bits or so making a oblong hole.  At the time, I thought that was just how it is as everyone says it is tough, but feel like an idiot now.

[jpgreen]

Nothing that we all have had to learn at some point.

Drilling steel- always slowest RPM possible, with the most pressure possible until near the bottom of the hole, then lighten up as you break through so your bit doesn't get stuck.

Use cutting oil and a sharp bit. The goal is to get a nice continous chip feed on both sides of the bit.

Your bits will last for years this way.

[jpgreen]

Really you should not have to use a carbide bit on a bar. A sharp HSS bit will work fine.

Another tip on drilling steel for a deep hole, or blind hole is to not let chips build up. Clear the chips by bringing up the bit as soon as the flutes load up, or start to load up.

Chips- will make your bit "walk", and throw your hole off even a few thousands. Criticle for precision machining, but not for general stuff.

Center punch your spot first.