Author Topic: home-made hydraulics (Read 17658 times)

sdunston · « **Reply #20 on:** October 31, 2009, 09:10:58 pm »

Woodhick, what was the price tag on that 2-plane clamp? And do you have any photo's of the retofit
thanks Sam

woodhick · « **Reply #21 on:** November 01, 2009, 06:41:51 pm »

At the time the price (if I remember correctly) was $1500. I don't have any pics of the mod but will try to get some. The outer 4"x4" frame has to be cut to allow the clamp to go in. I welded a piece of 4"x4" tube to the outside of mine before cutting the inner one out so I would not mess up any alignment with the mill. Best mod I have ever done.

coastlogger · « **Reply #22 on:** November 01, 2009, 07:20:45 pm »

Good thread!What does this 2 plane clamp look like anyone have a picture? very few woodmizers around here to look at.Thx
clgr

Ohio_Bill · « **Reply #23 on:** November 01, 2009, 07:32:18 pm »

Coastlogger : you can go to Woodmizers Web site and look at the LT40 HD 28 and see a demo of the clamp .

thanks

Bill

Puffergas · « **Reply #24 on:** November 01, 2009, 10:30:24 pm »

Now that's poetry in motion

Jeff

DGK · « **Reply #25 on:** November 01, 2009, 10:57:33 pm »

Quote from: woodhick on November 01, 2009, 06:41:51 pm

At the time the price (if I remember correctly) was $1500. I don't have any pics of the mod but will try to get some. The outer 4"x4" frame has to be cut to allow the clamp to go in. I welded a piece of 4"x4" tube to the outside of mine before cutting the inner one out so I would not mess up any alignment with the mill. Best mod I have ever done.

Hello Woodhick,

I have an LT40G28 with hydraulic log loader that I too am looking at putting on the WM 2 plane clamp. How are you making out with posting some pics of your mod? Most definitely would like to see some detailed pics of the install.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 02, 2009, 07:04:08 am »

The two plain clamp is a simple device it operates up/down and in/out.One hydraulic cylinder verticle on a slide to move crossways to the mill ways anouther cyl. horizontal to move the slide in and out.Only problem with this setup is you need clearance for the vert. cyl. under the mill,woodmizer gets around this with bellcranks and linkages,but same principal up/down in/out.Most of the time the 2 plain is all you need to clamp.Cants are easy to turn, catch the top of the clamp near the edge and lift just like putting your hand under it and flipping.First turn on a round log you need to go half way and chock then get anouther bite from there its hands off.Friend JSNH was over and took a couple of pictures of my turner ,their in his picture gallery.Frank C.

sdunston · « **Reply #27 on:** November 03, 2009, 05:53:15 pm »

Thats a nice clamp that JSNH posted. Does any one have any detailed photo's of a WM 2 plane clamp
thanks Sam

pineywoods · « **Reply #28 on:** November 03, 2009, 06:46:51 pm »

Hang on, drawings and dimensions are coming, I just haven't had time to do them. Delivered the mill back to owner sat.

Ohio_Bill · « **Reply #29 on:** November 03, 2009, 07:09:23 pm »

Thanks my help is starting to complain

coastlogger · « **Reply #30 on:** November 04, 2009, 12:44:49 am »

I wonder what the relative merits of a 2 plane clamp are for turning and clamping, compared to the claw style hydraulic turner as built by Piney. I see that the lt 40 has both....Want to build one or other and am looking for advice/comments. I cut all sizes but most typical is probably a 20 inch,16 foot log.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #31 on:** November 04, 2009, 06:15:25 am »

CLGR,thats a good question,I have used a mizer chain turner very fast but you also need the two plain to clamp and with odd shaped logs you can get in trouble fast.The two plain is very controlable but slower,but dosen't chew up the cants as bad as the chain.I must study the Piney clamp and turner, mayby the pick of the litter.Frank C.

pineywoods · « **Reply #32 on:** November 04, 2009, 11:02:26 pm »

OK, got ink pen drawings of the 3 sub-assemblies uploaded to my gallery. They aren't real good, I'm still trying to get a better scan and get it uploaded. Go to my galley and look in the album labeled manual to hydraulic. The dimensions are there unless I missed something. The dimensions given are for a woodmizer LT40, may require some changes for other mills. The length of the clamp arm in particular. It needs to be short enough to have the claw capable of getting under neath a log or cant, instead of just grabbing the side of a log. I'll load a big log on the mill tomorrow and get some more pics of the turner in operation. Still can't do videos.

fishpharmer · « **Reply #33 on:** November 05, 2009, 05:10:15 am »

Thanks Piney.

Jeff · « **Reply #34 on:** November 05, 2009, 05:00:54 pm »

I have deleted three posts and three photos here due to possible copyright problems. You guys cannot just go to someone's website, grab photos, and post them here without permission. You may find yourselves in violation of copyright infringement and you will be the one liable, not me.

Ohio_Bill · « **Reply #35 on:** November 05, 2009, 08:12:00 pm »

Piney : Thank You for sharing your invention My son in law is going to do the metal work he is a pipe fitter welder in the local trade union and teaches welding one night a week in the apprentice program . I am putting together my order for the hydraulic parts from northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company. So in a few weeks I should have a working turner-clamp. Thanks Again .

Bill

pineywoods · « **Reply #36 on:** November 05, 2009, 08:47:13 pm »

For those who asked, here's a few more pics, different mill, but same design.

Claw partially underneath log in preparation for turning..

The turner doesn't have long enough stroke to turn a log 90 deg in one push, so you have to back down and get another bite. Occasionally a log will roll backwards. then you need one of these.
Hi-tech anti-rollback device

Every manual mill operator knows about this situation. Make a few cuts off the top of the log, then roll 90 deg with a cant hook, hold that with one hand and then try to set the cam clamp against the log. Since the turner is also a clamp, use it to do both things at the same time. The in-out cylinder has plenty of push to push the log against the backstops.

Turning a cant is a little different. It's a two-handed operation. Position the claw underneath the cant like so. Use the lift cylinders to lift the cant and the in-out to drag the cant away from the backstops. No more cant climbing on top of the backstops.

Then lower the clamp almost to the bottom of the cant, and use the in-out to push the cant up against the backstops. This was a 10X12 cant that I cut into 1X12

Don't forget it's there and saw into it

Guess how I know

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #37 on:** November 06, 2009, 07:09:59 am »

Thanks Piney,the operation is exactly the same as my two plain but I would say yours would require less clearance underneath and is probibly faster.Once you use a turner like this you'll never go back to humping logs the old way.Much safer too your fingers are on the valve levers and not pinched between the log and bed.Frank C.

Woodwalker · « **Reply #38 on:** November 06, 2009, 08:45:28 am »

Not sure if I've got the attachment on here, but this is an XY clamp I've put together. Cylinders are sized to bed width and available vertical clearance. Square tubing for the slides.

pineywoods · « **Reply #39 on:** November 06, 2009, 10:01:29 am »

Quote from: bandmiller2 on November 06, 2009, 07:09:59 am

Once you use a turner like this you'll never go back to humping logs the old way.Much safer too your fingers are on the valve levers and not pinched between the log and bed.Frank C.

you got the idea. On the rare occasion when I need a cant hook, I usually have to go hunt for it.

News:

Author Topic: home-made hydraulics (Read 17658 times)