Author Topic: sawing spruce which way (Read 1325 times)

Ed_K · « **on:** September 15, 2003, 06:43:25 pm »

I know I saw a thread on which way to saw spruce. But can't find it

. Is it tip end first or butt :-/

I did 400 ft today, new blade, set 24, 12 degs. It was wavy at the begining and at black knots, even at a slower push. I'm running the EZ Baker manual mill. The logs where loaded butt first.
Ed K

Tom · « **Reply #1 on:** September 15, 2003, 06:52:01 pm »

Ed,
I've had my best luck with all logs entering from the small end. (top)

Most of the arguments I've ever heard for sawing a log butt first had to do with cutting the shorter boards off of the butt without having the off loader go to the other end of the mill to take them off and had nothing to do with cutting straight.

Almost without fail, I can turn a butt first log around when the blade is acting up and get better results. It doesn't always fix it but it sure helps.

When you consider that a log is only as big as it's small end then it makes sense to keep the small end closer to you so you can level the log easier by sighting down the blade. I still cut short boards off of the butt when they are there. Sometimes you are only talking about 1/2 inch and that's easy to miss if it is on the other end of the mill.

ohsoloco · « **Reply #2 on:** September 15, 2003, 08:10:43 pm »

How 'bout crosscutting it at 16" intervals

Knotty spruce is my least favorite wood to mill. I get wavy cuts either way, and have no support equipment, so however they come off the trailer is how they go in the mill

woodmills1 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 15, 2003, 08:25:01 pm »

I have cut exactly 2 spruce logs and I will use a repeat of another thread ^*$^^&)(***)(*(*&*^^^*&^()**_-0 spruce!

Percy · « **Reply #4 on:** September 15, 2003, 09:02:55 pm »

Im with you guys@#$%^&*()( spruce. I did have somw luck with the biggass .055 blades from Woodmizer but it was still not perfect. I gotta do some more here in the next few days and am not lookin forward to it...shazzbutt

I wonder if them 4 degree blades would help? Any opinions......

Tom · « **Reply #5 on:** September 15, 2003, 09:09:42 pm »

Assuming that your saw is properly set up:

The best thing to fight wavy cuts in difficult wood with is an ultra sharp blade. The best way to get an ultra sharp blade is to sharpen it yourself. It makes it more economical to pull it when the tips begin to shine too. I've pulled blades off when cutting Loblolly after 100 feet before just because the edge was gone and it was starting to wander.

EZ · « **Reply #6 on:** September 16, 2003, 03:41:35 am »

Ed-K, I have been sawing spruce the past couple wk-ends with blades that are for resawing. The lumber is super, and saws fast with my 16 hp. I have a blade ordered for FD but my blade man is waiting for another roll that he ordered. Go to my post that says New Blade for me. Maybe you can order one like this were you get your blades.
EZ

steveST · « **Reply #7 on:** September 16, 2003, 04:39:26 am »

I think that clear, wide, straight-grained, knot-free spruce is coveted material for instrument makers. (I know violins use Sitka Spruce backs for acoustic reasons). If you can saw some of that I am SURE your pains would be well-rewarded! $10+ per linear foot is not out of the question.

Ed_K · « **Reply #8 on:** September 16, 2003, 07:26:48 pm »

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'm just praying no one asks me to saw anymore spruce

. Out of 4 logs I got 1 that didn't go wavy, total of 340 ft. And the blade looks like helo

. I just picked up a dinasaw sharpener, guess I'll start experimenting with rake angles. I set 10 blades at 22 degs, now I wish I hadn't done so many. Got some ash to do on Thur, depending on rain. And read, less set on hardwood is better.
Ed K

Tom · « **Reply #9 on:** September 16, 2003, 09:24:06 pm »

you will find that 21 or 22 degrees is a pretty good general, ball-park set for most all woods. You've not done wrong by setting them at 22, it's just that you might find a different set suits you better in some woods.

Captain · « **Reply #10 on:** September 17, 2003, 05:18:27 am »

I saw it either direction and don't have any troubles....sorry I just had to say that.

Spruce is just another reason to own a Swingblade.

Captain

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #11 on:** September 17, 2003, 05:54:46 am »

Hi Cap. I just got my video from Peterson yesterday. Man !!!! That automatic mill should really eat the logs. It will make 20" boards, I think

Won't be in this country till next year. Amazing what a 24 HP engine will do. I thought the Mobile Dimension was pretty fast for making edged boards. That is 1 very nice looking machine.

Captain · « **Reply #12 on:** September 17, 2003, 08:21:35 am »

The NZ gang says the US debut may just be here in Massachusetts at the shootout next year. I'm looking forward to seeing it in action.

Captain

Percy · « **Reply #13 on:** September 20, 2003, 12:48:16 am »

Ok guys. I was cutting some large Sitka Spruce today and was getting frustrated as usual. Had very sharp blades , clean logs, debarker was cutting a biggass clean rut perfectly ahead of the blade and it was still wavin. When I sharpen my blades I make sure that the burrs are removed from the tips of the teeth but havent worried about the gullets. I noticed that the blade was momentarily diving and not actually waving above the cutline. I tried removing the burrs from the gullets of the blade and ... wala... cutting strait as an arrow. I had a problem similar to this about a year ago and started removing burrs from the blade teeth tips which cured the problem then but this gullet thing is a new development. Does every one who sharpens their own blades completly deburr them. I always thot that a few feet into the first cut, most burrs would be removeyalated but apparently not....

EZ · « **Reply #14 on:** September 20, 2003, 03:23:44 am »

I don't deburr my blades, but when I put a resharp blade on I go pretty slow until the blade hits a couple of knots. Seems to take care of the burrs, then I go for it.
EZ

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #15 on:** September 20, 2003, 06:14:46 am »

PERCY !!!!! You may have hit on something to help me

When Tom sharpened my blades, he mentioned the burr and said he has no trouble with it. It wears off quickly. He tensions tighter than we do.
I started sharpening our blades and the stone was pretty coarse. It made a heavy burr. I gotta try your idea. I have a new stone from Suffolk that is very fine. It should make a small burr, at best. Thanks for postin that

Ed_K · « **Reply #16 on:** September 20, 2003, 06:40:18 am »

Percy, How are you deburing the blade? With a hand stone or rubbing it with a hardwood block???
Ed K

Percy · « **Reply #17 on:** September 20, 2003, 08:54:59 am »

I used a 2 inch metal putty/drywall knife and worked from the gullet to the tip of the tooth, with the grain, so to speak....heh. It takes about 5 min to do a 184 inch blade...well werth it for me....

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