Author Topic: Poulan Pro=Jonsered=Husky? (Read 2241 times)

SasquatchMan · « **on:** September 14, 2003, 09:34:43 am »

All right chainsaw experts, step up and blast away. I'm a casual user (Carpenter by trade) but I cut a few cords of firewood a year, mostly spruce and pine, and nothing over about 18 inches... I've been using an electric chainsaw

for a couple of years now (people don't like gas chainsaws in their houses, and as a reno tool, chainsaws can be indispensable), but it's time to get a gas one. It seems that some of the Poulan Pro models are identical to some of the Jonsereds, and I've heard that some Jonsereds are identical to Huskies... if this is the case, can a guy get husky quality at Poulan Pro prices? Ought he?
I'm not cutting that much wood, and I suspect that even a stihl ms270 or a similar husky would be way more than enough saw for me, but I don't want to buy a sears saw and hate it, or have it unserviceable, etc...Anybody know who makes the Craftsman 42cc saw? It looks very like a Poulan Pro 260... Thanks for advice

Tillaway · « **Reply #1 on:** September 14, 2003, 01:16:14 pm »

Lets see I used to know, Poulan, Jonsered and Husqvarna are all owned by Eletrolux. All three share parts or used to, some Jonsered models were Huskies with cosmetic changes, I have seen several mulit-colored saws where you could not tell which brand it is. Craftsman saws are Poulans and I suspect, don't know for sure, that the homeowner model huskies share the same power plants (piston, cylinder, crank& case setup). maybe someone that really knows would chime in because I am curious. I disassembled a 40cc Huskie not long ago and the power package looked like it could be put into a bunch of different things.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #2 on:** September 14, 2003, 01:38:03 pm »

Thanks! It does look like the Jred 2145 and the husky 345, for example, are identical... (I emailed Jred about this and should know in a few days.... It also looks like Poulan's out of the "good" saw business, and the models which used to overlap no longer exist (like the Poulan 505 and the Jred 2085, which apparently were the same).

Anyone else taken these things apart?

Typhoon · « **Reply #3 on:** September 15, 2003, 11:35:34 am »

Maybe I can help a little. But only in Lamens terms. Do NOT buy a Craftsman saw.!! I bought one 2 years ago, brand new, and I would not give 5.00 for a new one now. I take very good care of all of my things and it has given me nothing but problems. However, later I bought a Poulan Pro, 40cc, and it has been a great saw! Much MUCH more reliable, smoother, etc than the Craftsman. Then recently I bought a Husky 350. Now THIS is a saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good luck.. steer clear of the Craftsman saws. And if you notice, you can get a Husky 350 for a few bucks more than a Poulan Pro. Its worth it!!

Den Socling · « **Reply #4 on:** September 15, 2003, 01:08:06 pm »

I don't do much sawing - just some fire wood and stuff around the yard. For years, I used Homelite but the last Homelite was so cantankerous about starting (2 to 3 pulls one time, 20 or 30 pulls the next time) that I got a Poulan last time. It wouldn't last if used heavily but, for me, it has been very good.

I've heard the same about sear's being junk. My father-in-law, who takes very good care of his equipment was always fixing his.

Tom · « **Reply #5 on:** September 15, 2003, 01:28:51 pm »

The only sears saw I never had any trouble with was little Poulan pancake saw my Father-in-law bought in 1963 when a big storm tore up Atlanta It had a 14 inch bar and I cut up 4 big pines about 30 DBH, a bunch of smaller tree and a big oak into small enough pieces that I could carry them up the hill from the back yard to the street. I had a wall of wood stacked on the street that was four feet tall and close to 80 feet long. When the saw wouldn't reach through the tree, I cut all I could and then split hunks off with an axe until I could saw the center. A bunch of years later (10?) he gave me the saw and I used it to cut firewood for the wood stove we heated with. Then some low life, no-good-worthless-excuse-for-a-human stole it. It would probably still be going. I've had other Poulans, Ropers (sears) and Mac's but nothing every held a candle to that saw until I got the Husky 61. Man! That's one good saw. I guess I've had two really good saws in my life, eh?

David_c · « **Reply #6 on:** September 15, 2003, 04:50:26 pm »

i have a poulan 2.3ci i have cut alot of firewood with it also cleared little more than an acer with it but it realy did'nt have enough power plus i constanly had to clean it it would clog up so now i own two huskys 372xp awsome saw plus a 350 good saw. wish i had bought one of these sooner well worth the extra money you will be ahead of the game if you spend a little more and get a stilh or husky stilh are more than husky but with either one you will have a good saw for a long time to come.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #7 on:** September 15, 2003, 06:39:09 pm »

:)Thanks all... went to the Jred and Stihl dealers near me today, and the Jred 2137, Poulan Pro 260, and Sears saw all seem to be nearly identical... whether that makes the sears saw good or the bottom end Jred bad I dunno... Anyhow, I was much more impressed by the feel of the Stihl saws... particularly the ms290 "Farm Boss", but with 57cc it's definitely a bigger boy than I was expecting to buy... better too much than too little I guess... the Stihl dealer was very knowledgeable and serviced in his shop so I think I'll probably buy from him... Anybody have experience with the smaller stihls? I'll have to look at the husky 350 too...

Tom · « **Reply #8 on:** September 15, 2003, 07:11:42 pm »

If you are cutting mostly firewood and smaller logs, look for a saw in the 4 cubic inch range. That's a lot of saw but usually light enough to handle all day. This was mentioned before when somebody said 3.5 or 3.8 cubes. I think they are right and it is a good window to shop in.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #9 on:** September 15, 2003, 07:30:33 pm »

Do you guys generally agree that a heavier saw is a little more kickback safe? More power means more kickback potential, I guess, but I liked the fact that the ms290 had a fairly long body and handle, which seemed to give a bit more leverage... I'm a big enough guy to handle a medium heavy saw, so I'm not worried about an extra pound or two if it means happier cutting.

David_c · « **Reply #10 on:** September 15, 2003, 07:44:13 pm »

i have noticed that there is less kick back with my new saws but i would imagine that kickback could potentoinly be more sever with more power.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #11 on:** September 15, 2003, 07:57:25 pm »

David your post on kickback and the comments with it have convinced me to buy a bigger saw than I was going to. I have always purchased "more than enough" with my carpentry tools, and never regretted it (and have had more problems on my dinky little tools than on the monster-horse table saw). I guess my innate, natural, and totally sane fear of chainsaws overruled my experience with other cutting devices... now I just gotta come up with some bucks

David_c · « **Reply #12 on:** September 15, 2003, 08:06:20 pm »

sasquatchman you definily want be sorry make sure you also wear safety gear if you dot already. ENJOY

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #13 on:** September 15, 2003, 08:17:35 pm »

I always wear gloves, steelies, goggles, earplugs etc, but I think I might get some proper pants for Christmas... I've got two legs but I like em both.

David_c · « **Reply #14 on:** September 15, 2003, 08:23:14 pm »

i would'nt wait for christmas i would get some chaps when you get your new saw at about 45-60 bucks its cheap protection i wont cut without them i figuire better safe than sorry.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #15 on:** September 15, 2003, 08:27:07 pm »

Are all chainsaw chaps the same? Are they kevlar or what?
Thanks again

David_c · « **Reply #16 on:** September 15, 2003, 08:32:32 pm »

they have kevlar and a saw gamming materal some are 6 layers some are9 there desinged to stop saw before sever damage occurs.

rebocardo · « **Reply #17 on:** September 16, 2003, 07:07:30 pm »

From reading the saw descriptions and such, it would be anything under 3.8 is required to have low kick back protection, including the saw chain. Anything bigger is not "required" to be tested to low kickback (Federal) standards.

I have a Poulan 2375 (says Wild Thing and purple), 18 inches, and it does an okay job and it is easy to handle. I have cut down some pretty big trees with it and it has enough stuff to be good for firewood. Biggest bonus for me is it is small and light enough for the front seat of my truck and it comes with a case and shealth for $139 from Home Depot. It leaks oil now, it is only rated for 50 hours, and I have certainly exceeded that. Still works and makes money.

Though in no way does it compare with my new Husky 365, even with the Husky using a low kickback chain.

Some of the bigger saws are not recommended for cutting things under 3 inches because the saw can and will grab it and whip it back at you. For cutting small stuff I grab the small electric 14 inch or my sawzall with a pruning blade.

For limbing the top of a tree when it is down and if electric is available I prefer the sawzall. It is much safer and quicker to use than a chainsaw, especially when poking it through a mass of branches.

Guess I am just saying, size has its place and you pay for size and how long the saw is suppose to last.

A 50 hour $139 saw will cost $3 an hour. A Husky is probably cheaper per hour, but, if you are not going to be using that saw more than 50 hours a year, the Husky is not cost effective unless you need to run a big bar and cut a lot of firewood.

My Husky 365 at $560 cost 4x more than the $138 Poulan. To be cost effective, I have to cut 4x as much wood and not repair the saw and use it 200 hours within the two year warranty. The trouble is the Husky is very fast, but, when cutting firewood you spend more time handling the wood than cutting it!

David_c · « **Reply #18 on:** September 16, 2003, 07:25:22 pm »

the thing is in 20 years you will still have your 365 if you take care of it or dont sell it. now i dont know about using a sawsall for cutting up trees but i will tell you either my 350 or 372xp make short work of limbing and bucking and i find i wind up using the 372 more ofton just becuase its quicker just remember you get what you pay for i have a freind who thinks he saves money to buy the cheap stuff and it is at time of purchuse but when you have to keep buying those things every year or two you are better of spending the extra money the first time its cheaper in the long run.

SasquatchMan · « **Reply #19 on:** September 16, 2003, 07:38:01 pm »

Thanks rebo... I admit I think I'll be over-powered most of the time with the 290 or the JRed, but I fear two things with the cheaper saws... one is that I'll wear it in the first year, wear it out the second, and the other is that if the saw develops problems, it may not be fixable. I was super impressed with my nearest Stihl dealer's sales and service approach, and his shop-techs can definitely figure out a problem faster than my local Sears staff. I'm tempted to run the hell out of a cheap saw, just to see... but really, I think David P is on the right track (for my purposes). I live in a tiny town, and intend to cut more wood every year from now on... I think putting the $ into a good saw is my best bet.

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Author Topic: Poulan Pro=Jonsered=Husky? (Read 2241 times)