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|-+  General Forestry
| |-+  Drying and Processing (Moderator: Den Socling)
| | |-+  Cost of drying lumber
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Den Socling
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« Reply #40 on: November 09, 2009, 01:17:50 PM »

aha! I found more info on portable hygrometers. It is OK to have the wicks at an angle. Just put another hole in your reservoir and leave two or three inches of wick exposed.
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« Reply #41 on: November 09, 2009, 09:21:50 PM »

If you can find something it would be helpfull. The info I was trying to find was how much air should pass over the wick, and like you said the amount of wick exposed but it seems a little hard to find.
I am going to go back to the first setup, it seemed to work.

The lumber should be done in a day or two and I'll have some costs then.

Charlie
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Den Socling
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« Reply #42 on: November 10, 2009, 11:39:29 AM »

In laboratory conditions, a WB would have 600 feet per minute blowing over it. In a conventional kiln, you see closer to 350 feet/min. White wood should have more air. Wood that is nearly dry isn't giving up much water and can get away with less air and save a little money.
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Charles
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« Reply #43 on: November 10, 2009, 11:14:17 PM »

I shut the power off to the kiln to-nite and took my readings. I have used 271 KW of elec. My cost per KW with everything added in including taxes is 13.8 cents a KW. Total cost to me to run the kiln for hydro is $37.38. I had told the customer it would be about .50 cents a bft. or maybe more depending on the hydro.  300 bft makes me $150 less $38 which is $112 for 16 days., that's $7 a day profit, not much but it was a small load. I think if I was to do this for other people on a regular basis I would have to charge more. As far as I know I am the only person in this area who can dry 300 bft or less. I think I could charge more because like this customer this tree was special because her great Grandfather planted it. When it came down she is having some end tables made for her Grandchildren. By the time the sawing and drying and transport costs are totaled it will be very expensive but this I suppose is what they want.
Thoughts anybody

Charlie
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« Reply #44 on: November 18, 2009, 05:17:56 AM »

I don't have much to add except that a company can charge as much as there market will stand. If they can charge a certain amont stay busy and make a profit then they have a good bus. if they can not then there must be a change in raising price or lowering cost.
This has been a very good read in that there are great answers from both sides of the fence and in there bus. they are both right. The neat thing about this is there is no set rules other than the laws of nature. If it works for you do it.
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Jim Spencer
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« Reply #45 on: November 19, 2009, 09:37:32 PM »

Charles,
If you are drying in the winter with a dehumidifier the cost will be much higher than in warm weather.
I use an ebac dehumidifier and refuse to dry any lumber after Oct. 1st because cold wood will freeze up coils and cost too much for electric heat in the kiln to allow dehumidifier to operate efficiently.
Just my opinion,
Jim
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solidwoods
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Best way to make the most money with a portable mill is to cut the least lumber you can.


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« Reply #46 on: November 20, 2009, 09:49:31 AM »

Hi Den

I am going to dig up the old platform and tub I used before I made the changes. It worked well but OH NO had to add some water so let's make it better. Do you know of any sites that may give me info on wet bulbs. I may have been a little lucky the first time
thanks
charlie

I used to use 2 glass thermometers with one having a cotton shoe string for the wick in water.

Where to put it.
I like at half the load height and between the fans (if you have more than 1).
Also the glass thermometer type are so cheap, put a few of them in different places (you'll be surprised at the different readings, especially between up high and down on the floor)

And thanks for the cost info.
I feel lucky our electric is $.08kw in Tennessee.
I use a wood fired hotwater system though so I only have fan electric to cover.
jim
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I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
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Den Socling
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« Reply #47 on: November 20, 2009, 10:01:15 AM »

Jim is right about different readings from different locations. Naturally, the bigger the kiln, the more the variation. Also, if you have fans that reverse, you take readings from the inlet side only, if possible. The wet bulb is adiabatic but drafts around doors, vents, etc. will affect the reading. The dry bulb is always read on the inlet side.
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red oaks lumber
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« Reply #48 on: November 20, 2009, 08:43:17 PM »

jim spencer,
 if your kiln is working right your coils should not freeze up in the cold weather. what temp  is your kiln  when the compressor comes on ? should be 80 deg. i dry wood all winter(northern wisconsin) and never had my coils freeze up
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« Reply #49 on: November 21, 2009, 08:24:07 AM »

I have not had ANY issues drying in winter w/ my Ebac.  Can ya explain dat one to me? I don't understand that one for sure eh

 Ironwood
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There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer
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