Author Topic: Help automating my bandmill sawhead (Read 5473 times)

kelLOGg · « **Reply #40 on:** September 21, 2009, 06:59:20 pm »

I remember those instructions to beef up the amps on that kit - wish I had tried it. You've already got the kit so try to beef it up. If it doesn't work go for the e-bay one.

My wheel chair motor (24 VDC) never goes over 10 amps - and that is on the fast return (although it's not so fast

)
That's 240 watts (or ~1/3 HP). The e-bay one would be 360 Watts - even more. Do you know the amp requirement on your motor? i didn't see it in the thread.

Hbarker · « **Reply #41 on:** September 21, 2009, 08:00:39 pm »

Quote from: kelLOGg on September 21, 2009, 06:59:20 pm

I remember those instructions to beef up the amps on that kit - wish I had tried it. You've already got the kit so try to beef it up. If it doesn't work go for the e-bay one.

My wheel chair motor (24 VDC) never goes over 10 amps - and that is on the fast return (although it's not so fast )
That's 240 watts (or ~1/3 HP). The e-bay one would be 360 Watts - even more. Do you know the amp requirement on your motor? i didn't see it in the thread.

evening and thanks for the reply.
here is the spec pdf on my motor
http://www.asidrives.com/pdf/adl100.pdf

kelLOGg · « **Reply #42 on:** September 22, 2009, 05:52:55 am »

Your motor requires 5 amps at no load so beefing up the kit is essential.

Have you measured the force (lbs) necessary to move the head as fast (feet/sec) as you want it to go? That's a good starting place. From there you can figure out the amps necessary at the voltage used.

There was a thread that helped me a lot when I was adding my power feed. It may be helpful to you. if not I can pass on more details.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,15084.msg213963.html#msg213963
Bob

moonhill · « **Reply #43 on:** September 22, 2009, 07:01:31 am »

My mill runs forward and back on hydraulic motors with rubber tires pressing against the track. It works with no problem except for ice in the winter, then I don't want to be out anyway. Just mentioning that the rubber wheel should work, mount them with little air in them and then pump them up for a pressure fit. This could save a lot of extra lengths of wire, chain or whatever, and allow for the possibility of track extensions at ease. It came originally with a cable feed system and the manufacturer said most folks are switching to this system. The cables wore out and they were trip hazzards, things were always getting caught up in them too.

Tim

Hbarker · « **Reply #44 on:** September 22, 2009, 11:10:57 am »

Ohh thanks Kellogg.. great informative link ..
I will fer sure beef up the controller soon as it gets here,...

Ohhhhhhh

Moonhill "mfg are using rubber tires pressing against the track." NO FAKE

What MFG.. ?? I thought My buddy and I had an original idea there,, and thought for a week it wasnt the bet idea we ever had,, had almost got my sawzall out to cut them side mounts for the motors off and go with the chain drive.. BUT now I think I will go ahead and see how the motor works with rubber tires pressing against the track.
However.. one reason I had changed my mind to the chain drive was because that little controller would never , NO WAY have enough amp's to run Both motors ,, BUT<>,. one on the one side may work ??
do you have any pictures of your mill??
also what MFG is use the rubber tires pressing against the track.??
Thanks a ton guys ,, you fellas are Sooooo helpfull!

jpgreen · « **Reply #45 on:** September 22, 2009, 12:13:15 pm »

You mentioned engine rpm speed on return a while back and I never like to run engines full out on anything, specially while not under load so what I did when I swapped engines on my Woodmizer was make a throttle control.

That way I can idle it down with the blade engaged if I care to or at anytime. Also- some times I don't need to run the engine wide open when milling, so I can adjust my RPM. Less engine wear.

Good luck on your project, looks like fun,.

Hbarker · « **Reply #46 on:** September 22, 2009, 01:43:38 pm »

Jpgreen,, Tell me more about this throttle control you made. Do you have any pics?

Also .. If I leave motor and wheel on sawhead frame, (dont go with chain drive) I calculated I would then need to run the 12v leads about 24 foot from the controller to the motor,,

What size wire would I have to use for that? lets say IF my motors desire was 40 amps.
would be easier to mount bat and controller onboard ,, and run teathered petentiometer as someone mentioned above,,, however my potentiometer is mounted on the control board, and I dont have one thats off in center and on left and right,.. Hmmmm

moonhill · « **Reply #47 on:** September 22, 2009, 07:27:21 pm »

Breezewood is out of print now, they were a small manufacturer and as I mentioned it originally came with a cable feed system. The tire is a cheap 4.10x?, it is found on cheap hand carts and small air compressors and such. No joke, the tire should work fine if it is mounted at the right location/distance from the track.

I have a relative in a chair and I would think the system should have no problem moving the saw back and forth. I am interested to see how this all works out.

Sorry about the pictures, I have issues with them.

tim

jpgreen · « **Reply #48 on:** September 22, 2009, 07:28:34 pm »

Go here:

http://www.backwoodssolar.com/reference/wire_size.htm

Hbarker · « **Reply #49 on:** September 22, 2009, 08:02:20 pm »

Quote from: jpgreen on September 22, 2009, 07:28:34 pm

Go here:

http://www.backwoodssolar.com/reference/wire_size.htm

Thanks for the chart JPgreen.. very helpful .
So one can run smaller wire a longer distance with 24v system at the same amp rating,. hmm

Also,, more of this throttle control you have ??
I was looking at something like this for throttle??
http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=110

Hilltop366 · « **Reply #50 on:** September 22, 2009, 08:19:41 pm »

Also,, more of this throttle control you have ??
I was looking at something like this for throttle??
http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=110
[/quote]

Would a car door electric lock work?

Hbarker · « **Reply #51 on:** September 22, 2009, 10:13:30 pm »

not sure about the door lock ... thought about even a pc cd drive mounted on the side

BUT look what i found,,
http://designgoddessweb2.com/vtcmotor.html

Small engine throttle unit for speed control with wired switch or our wireless control kit. A simple, reliable solution for a common problem.

Hmmmmmm
It must be soooo expensive they cant post the price.. will call tomorrow

jpgreen · « **Reply #52 on:** September 22, 2009, 10:41:54 pm »

Mine's bonehead simple as it gets.

Just like the stock Onan throttle cable connects to the engage arm, at that point I simply fabricated a lever that went onto that bolt, the connected the throttle cable to the lever. You set the lever like a lawn mower throttle. Push one way it idles up, pull the other and it idles down.

Engage the engine and it jumps up in RPM, but then you have the same push pull adjustment.

Hbarker · « **Reply #53 on:** September 23, 2009, 02:32:12 pm »

Hey fellas, UPDATEon the VC throttle control I spoke with the company rep today ,.
They are only 88.00 bux .http://designgoddessweb2.com/vtcmotor.html
.However they are actually backordered for some time ,,
Said they are actually looking for distributors in Texas.. and if I was interest they could send a
demo model to me

Waiting on email from another person in the company on that one..

Hbarker · « **Reply #54 on:** September 23, 2009, 02:35:52 pm »

Looking at the picture on the website,, looks like a windshield wiper motor to me???
Any ideas on how one could use a windshield wiper motor and regulate it to slow WAY down, and to also stop at any specific point? $:-\$

Just thinkin out loud.........

GF · « **Reply #55 on:** September 23, 2009, 03:12:31 pm »

I purchased a 12v right angle gear motor from surplus center for $19.00. I mounted it in a boc and drilled a hole so the shaft would extend out. I then machined a metal arm about 3 or 4 inches long and attached it to the shaft. I drilled a small hole and attached a throttle cable clamp to it to hold the outside of the throttle cable. The motor is wired to a dpdt toggle switch on the console to throttle up and throttle down. Been using it for over 5 years now and have not had any problems with it. It looks alot like the one at http://designgoddessweb2.com/vtcmotor.html, but I only had $20 in parts.

Unlike a solenoid throttle control that requires power to it all the time while its throttled up the gear motor design only requires power during the throttle up or throttle down process.

Hbarker · « **Reply #56 on:** September 23, 2009, 03:38:49 pm »

groovy GF you got any pics of your control??

Hilltop366 · « **Reply #57 on:** September 23, 2009, 10:32:29 pm »

Maybe something like this ?

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009092321223842&item=5-1636&catname=electric

Hbarker · « **Reply #58 on:** September 25, 2009, 08:09:01 pm »

anythings possible at this point,,.
just a update had a guy look at my wheelchair controls, they are fubared ,,,
Got controller I ordered in . beefing it up this evening to handle the extra load,

ALSO ,.,. Dude gave me another set of wheelchair motors today..

On the motor break,, Its removable .. nice little electric break system, have to save those for another project...

Hbarker · « **Reply #59 on:** April 03, 2010, 06:00:56 pm »

Almost forgot to update here..

The automation works great ,, I have cut a big pile of boards..
Beats the heck out of manually feeding the saw head.. I still stay with it,, and help it along a bit. but it almost works by its self.

The satellite arms and gears worked GREAT !! like a dream to push the remote control in my hand and watch the laser pointer scroll up or down the tape measure.

Thanks for you guys help and input !!

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Author Topic: Help automating my bandmill sawhead (Read 5473 times)