Risky tree cut

[chevytaHOE5674]

If its just a limb, top, and chunk down with no cleanup then it wouldn't be all that expensive.

[DonT]

I have a question?From the origianal diagram provided and the scenario given what happens when the top 1/3 of tha tree hits the edge of the hill?is it not going to create a point for the rest of the tree to pivot on bringing the butt up in a hurry?When that happens and it hits that chain what happens to the butt then?In my opinion limb it, top it and block it down.

[mike_van]

Sure it would - But with houses on 3 sides of it, they'd be $$$$$$$$ too if that tree split one in half.
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would it be $$$$$$$$$$$$$
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[campy]

Anchor the dozer in case the tree falls towards the house and yanks the dozer down the hill.
The cutter has to be out of the way when  the tree is pulled.
Also, when tensioning the cable during the cut make sure not to put too much tension on or the tree can snap at the bottom.

Do not have the cutter get behind the tree at anytime.
He needs to be beside it because it can snap back or explode back from the intense leverage.

If the tree is rotten, hollow or has dead branches you need to use a climber.

Put the cable high up in the tree but on solid wood.
Pull slowly.

[customsawyer]

Run Forest run.

[gemniii]

Wouldn't it be safer to just go up to the top, start limbing it, then use a chainsaw mill to take it down a piece at a time

[beenthere]

Wouldn't it be safer to just go up to the top, start limbing it, then use a chainsaw mill to take it down a piece at a time

What kind of chainsaw mill is that? 

[gemniii]

An Alaskan of course !

Just picture someone at the top of a tree, blowin in the wind, making lumber.

/edit - Gravity ASSist!

[beenthere]

 

[DaveP]

     Would some one explain what a Humbolt notch is  and how it works.

[Jeff]

This old Standby link can do that as well as any.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/cuts/notches/notches.html

[DaveP]

     I use the Humbolt notch a lot.  Didn't know that was the name for it.

[rickywashere]

     I use the Humbolt notch a lot.  Didn't know that was the name for it.

yea have used it a lot over the years i always call it a under cut notch

[Magicman]

     I use the Humbolt notch a lot.  Didn't know that was the name for it.

The logger that first showed it to me didn't know that it had a name either....

[rebocardo]

> I doubt the dozer will be able to keep the preasure on...not fast enough.

You are 100% correct, with my big V-8 automatic 4x4 van floored sometimes it is barely able to keep up and keep tension on the cable. The thing to remember is the tree, if the hinge is broken, is going to be falling at 32 feet per second. The top of that tree will be on the ground in about 2 seconds. I would not cut that without using a hinge!

I posted pictures of my van with the roof crushed from a tree - happened because the guy on the dozer line did not pull fast enough and was not paying attention (cell phone) to my cutting.

I did this kind of work all the time, you really need two anchor lines and one pulling line (winch will not do - not fast enough) on a big V-8 truck. It will help if one of the anchor lines is also on a  big truck (or dozer).

I have used my climbers on many dangerous jobs and this would be a dangerous job were pulling was not the safest option The biggest danger is you can not see the cutter nor the results of your pulling. If the tree starts to go bad, by the time it is relayed to you by cellphone, it might be too late.
 
On a 36" tree you will need 3/8" cable at a min. and besides wrapping with chain at the bottom just to prevent and contain a barber chair, on this one you should do it below where the cables are attached. The cables each should be attached at a different point with the pull cable attached the highest. I try to use a choker around big crotches so if the tree starts to split, the cables keep it together.

What I do with my climber is attach the chain to a rope and run it up on a pulley/crotch so he does not have to carry it with him. A 5/16 schedule 70 would be fine for preventing a barber chair at the top of the tree.

[rebocardo]

FWIW: If I was doing this tree, I would use an open notch and cut it so the hinge stayed intact until at least the tree was on the slope. I would retension the anchor lines, then cut the top free if possible, then use the dozer to pull the trunk up in sections.

Tricky part is cutting the hinge, what I do is cut right below it because the hinge as it splinters and breaks can be quite dangerous. If I am cutting the hinge itself on a slope I would probably use my electric pole saw so I could cut it and be 10+ feet away (did that on a red oak). Basically nibble left to right sawing down gradually instead of cutting right through in one step.

Pictures of the tree 100 feet away would give a better idea of the job.

[Kevin]

Rebo;
I'm with you right up until

Tricky part is cutting the hinge, what I do is cut right below it because the hinge as it splinters and breaks can be quite dangerous. If I am cutting the hinge itself on a slope I would probably use my electric pole saw so I could cut it and be 10+ feet away (did that on a red oak). Basically nibble left to right sawing down gradually instead of cutting right through in one step.

Never cut below the hinge.
Don't use a pole saw at all.

You should tension the high set pull line slightly.
Clear an escape route.
Start the felling cut using stump shot and add wedges as you advance to the hinge.
The pull line will hold the tree ahead and the wedges will support the tree from behind.
Watch the top, set up the hinge and get out of there, let the cat pull it over.
Don't do it on a windy day.

[rebocardo]

> cut it so the hinge stayed intact until at least the tree was on the slope.

Never cut below the hinge.

I was talking about AFTER the tree was on the ground, I would never suggest risking a dutch man. Cutting down straight on the pulled fibers of a hinge, besides the vibration, can kick back like a spring pole. Especially on an open notch where the fibers are not broken during the fall.

> Don't use a pole saw at all.

Well, I have used a pole saw more then once to drop trees where I did not want to be close because the rotted falling bark/wood chunks could hurt or kill me.

Though I was talking about being far enough back to avoid saw kickback, but, most importantly being out of range of a log being pulled up a hill while releasing the hinge. To be behind directly behind a huge log, on a slope, with it being pulled uphill over a crest is very dangerous. I always assume the cable is going to break or the chain choker will loosen.

It is a lot easier to drop a pole saw and get, if something goes wrong then trying to drop a running saw and try to get 20 feet away behind stump or tree if something.goes wrong, imho.

[Qweaver]

Thanks to everyone for the replies and suggestions.  They have decided to take the tree down in pieces now.  I will hook on and pull the last part up the hill.  I used many of these posts to convince the owner.  I was about to backout of the job otherwise.
Quinton

[motohed]

I would have no part of that if I was you.  Cutting with no notch, and pulling with a tractor to boot, is surely going to barber-chair.  That tree if green is heavy enough to break a chain, and it will be shooting backward with force as well. I can't see how anyone who is an experienced tree worker would come up with this.

 I have to agree , a huge ditto !