Author Topic: Risky tree cut (Read 4341 times)

Qweaver · « **on:** September 01, 2009, 07:20:54 pm »

I've been asked to help fell a big 36" poplar that is a danger to buildings in every direction except straight up the hill. The slope is actually a little more steep than my drawing shows. My only part is to pull the tree with my dozer to keep it from hitting the houses to the left , right and below the tree. The base of the tree will be chained to a large, strong stump directly above the tree to keep in from sliding into the building directly below the tree.
The tree will be cut by a guy that my cousin says is an experienced tree service man.
This man has proposed to make a single angled cut from back to front without a notch. (see the drawing) I've felled hundreds of trees but never in this type of situation. This looks dangerous to me. Why not cut a notch? Any thoughts?
Thanks

ErikC · « **Reply #1 on:** September 01, 2009, 07:34:58 pm »

I would have no part of that if I was you. Cutting with no notch, and pulling with a tractor to boot, is surely going to barber-chair. That tree if green is heavy enough to break a chain, and it will be shooting backward with force as well. I can't see how anyone who is an experienced tree worker would come up with this.

Ernie · « **Reply #2 on:** September 01, 2009, 07:53:20 pm »

I'd watch someone else tackle that job from a safe distance if I were you.

Please post a link to the video afterwards

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #3 on:** September 01, 2009, 07:55:14 pm »

I agree, not using a notch is bad practice. This type of felling is done every day in the PNW, on ground you can hardly stand on. A Humboldt notch is the typical cut used to address the tree shooting over the stump.

olyman · « **Reply #4 on:** September 01, 2009, 08:26:22 pm »

very doable--but not the way they envision--walk away fast--

Reddog · « **Reply #5 on:** September 01, 2009, 08:33:53 pm »

There are times to not use a notch, This is not one of those times.
As Dave pointed out, a Humbolt with a high stump would help to hold it on the hill.

Frickman · « **Reply #6 on:** September 01, 2009, 08:37:49 pm »

Wouldn't it be easier and safer to hire a climber and piece it down? I fell timber for a living yet I hire climbers all the time for jobs like that.

timberfaller390 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 01, 2009, 09:15:27 pm »

Yes, please post the video cause I ain't never got to see somebody killed in a bad logging accident before.

Qweaver · « **Reply #8 on:** September 01, 2009, 09:46:20 pm »

Thanks for the input everyone. I'm glad that you all feel the same as I do about this. I'll let the owner do the pulling with my dozer so that I have no liability in this.
Quinton

Frickman · « **Reply #9 on:** September 01, 2009, 10:01:49 pm »

If it's your dozer, you have liability.

logger444 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 01, 2009, 10:58:15 pm »

I'd make a full 90 degree notch (>)and leave about 3-4 inches of hinge. Set 2-4 wedges in the back cut and get the heck out the way. Have the Dozer op pull the tree over slow but steady. Make *DanG sure that the cable is much longer than the height of the tree. There are plenty of fools and farmers who have tried to pull a 100 foot tree with a 60 foot cable. Being a Poplar, i would bet the the tree will snap at the top of the hill. If your 90 held and worked well you will probably have to saw thru the hinge to pull the log up the hill. Make *DanG sure that you have reset a choker on this log and have just a little tension on the log. Your 90, your sidenotches to prevent slabbing, your hinge, your back cut..... all of these better be dead nuts accurate. Make these cuts as if your in a Douglas Dent or Soren Errickson video. If a 36 inch bar is available use that to minimize the chance of gettiing "lost" in the tree. I use the word heck and *DanG not to sound like a hick, but to really emphasize that you need to be real careful. good luck

beenthere · « **Reply #11 on:** September 01, 2009, 11:40:41 pm »

Been some great comments on that procedure.
One more I see is that the cat operator cannot see the cutting progress. Pulling too soon, too fast, or too late, or too slow may mess up the plan. Having someone pulling that knows tree felling is one thing that helps, but not being able to see the cutting, takes away that advantage.

Maybe it will work just fine as planned, as some people do get lucky.

But like the others, doesn't look like a good plan (especially the slanted back-to-front cut). And that chain attached to the stump may at first keep the tree from sliding into the house. But expect it to take a real beating when the top comes down, tossing the butt in the air. If that happens and the chain breaks, hopefully the cat will keep the tree from sliding down into the house. Its a "what-if", but now is the time to consider all the "what-ifs" and avoid a headache, or worse.

Banjo picker · « **Reply #12 on:** September 02, 2009, 05:14:57 am »

You did say there were houses to the left and right also...We just don't know where in proximity to your tree...When the tree starts down I doubt the dozer will be able to keep the preasure on...not fast enough....Strange things can happen...I have used my dozer to help countrol a tree a time or two, but I don't think I would be part nor parcel on that....Two many links in the chain....The cutter and the dozer man will have to rely on a third party to know what the other is doing. Signals can get mixed up. Tim

rickywashere · « **Reply #13 on:** September 02, 2009, 05:34:43 am »

well i can understand what the cutter is saying about the notch and the dozer pulling it as he's worried it pulling off the stump and rolling left or right but if he was good cutter then he would know how much hinge to save to stop that so you might need to look into a different saw man sounds if he has a little fear to start with . and with a job like that there is no place for that caution yes fear no way

mike_van · « **Reply #14 on:** September 02, 2009, 06:23:39 am »

The people doing this job want to be insured against damage to others property. I'd have to see that policy. Too much at risk with a tree that large to just wing it.

thecfarm · « **Reply #15 on:** September 02, 2009, 07:03:16 am »

A 36" inch is tree is some heavy and will do just about wants it wants to do,if not tied of correctly. I would not want anything to do with it.I would even not want to loan out my dozer for this tree.

Corley5 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 02, 2009, 08:34:24 am »

An insured tree service should do this job. It looks like a disaster in the making to me.

timberfaller390 · « **Reply #17 on:** September 02, 2009, 08:38:06 am »

I agree that is tree service all the way. Thats the kind of work they do all day long. thats what makes them tree services and us loggers. They get paid to take down just one tree.

chevytaHOE5674 · « **Reply #18 on:** September 02, 2009, 06:57:51 pm »

I would hire an insured tree service, theres a reason we take all day for one tree.

rickywashere · « **Reply #19 on:** September 02, 2009, 08:50:04 pm »

Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on September 02, 2009, 06:57:51 pm

I would hire an insured tree service, theres a reason we take all day for one tree.

would it be $$$$$$$$$$$$$

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Author Topic: Risky tree cut (Read 4341 times)