Stihl 034 av super schematics

[641workmaster]

Does anyone have or sell a service booklet and parts diagram for a Stihl 034 AV Super?  A parts vendor would be helpful too.

 My dad took this saw in for routine tuneup, brought it home and ran a tank fine.  On second tank it stopped shortly after and wouldn't fire.  Noticed some parts unsecured and took it back.  This time service guy said it was a "crank bearing" and needed $250.  The whole machine came back with loose parts and they kept the bar case and plug.  I'm not sure what else is missing.  He decided a new one might be a better investment and gave it to me for a "have at it". 

After stripping it down, everything appears to move smoothly but I did notice where the fan/balancer? has recently rubbing against the case and piston assembly.  There appears to be a spacer or something missing between the bearing and fan.  A breakdown diagram would be most helpful.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Kyle

[Mad Professor]

There is nothing behind the flywheel besides the seal for the case/bearing which is pressed into the case.  The bearing is installed from inside the case, e.g. you need to split the cases to do the bearing.  The seal can be removed/installed with the flywheel off.  You need a $20 puller to pull the flywheel.

Here is a thread I did on a 036 rebuild, they are about the same as a 034 super:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=96696&highlight=036

[Al_Smith]

  You need a $20 puller to pull the flywheel.

 

If you can find one for 20 bucks perhaps .

I assume it is M 22-1.5 which is a metric hydraulic fitting size .

I've made about twenty of them so far and sent them all around the US of A .None by the way went to any on that site you linked to .

[641workmaster]

Mad Professor, nice rebuild on the 036.  Pictures are always informative.  My flywheel is held on by a locknut and a splined key on the shaft.  It comes on/off real easy.  What did you clean up your saw with? 

Should the clutch assembly be all oily or dry?  Mines oily either from the bar or the crank seal leaks.  How do you test for leaks?

By the way, love the '42? 1.5ton? 4x4 Chevy.  Yours?  I have a '46 3/4ton.  Are you on the Stovebolt.com site?

[Mad Professor]

  You need a $20 puller to pull the flywheel.

 

If you can find one for 20 bucks perhaps .

I assume it is M 22-1.5 which is a metric hydraulic fitting size .

I've made about twenty of them so far and sent them all around the US of A .None by the way went to any on that site you linked to .

Al, dealer sold me the real deal for $20. 

[Al_Smith]

 Good deal  That is unusual for anything made by Stihl to be sold so reasonable .

[Mad Professor]

Mad Professor, nice rebuild on the 036.  Pictures are always informative.  My flywheel is held on by a locknut and a splined key on the shaft.  It comes on/off real easy.  What did you clean up your saw with? 

Should the clutch assembly be all oily or dry?  Mines oily either from the bar or the crank seal leaks.  How do you test for leaks?

By the way, love the '42? 1.5ton? 4x4 Chevy.  Yours?  I have a '46 3/4ton.  Are you on the Stovebolt.com site?

First scrap off all the crust, then I clean the saws up with simple green , a stiff parts brush, and the green dish scouring pads.  If they are really oily I start out with diesel/kerosene before the simple green.  Clean up as much as you can before pulling the jug off.

The clutch will be oily after use from bar oil.  

The right way to test the crank seals is a pressure/vacuum (should hold BOTH) test.  The seals come with a $15 gasket set so why not put them in?  My dealer charged $20 to install when I brought him in a clean saw with the flywheel and clutch off.  The dealer has another, more $$$ tool, to do seals without splitting the cases.  A good dealer will also do the seal test (pressure/vac) for reasonable $$$ if you bring in a clean saw

The Chevy is a 46 1.5 ton with original flathead 6.  It's just used for plowing/wood hauling and wears 6 chains all the time.  I like the old flatheads, have a Willys wagon with very low mileage I'm restoring too.

Will checkout the stovebolt site.  

If you are into jeep/willys check out earlyCJ5.com, they do the pickup/wagon and CJ2/3 too.

[Mad Professor]

Good deal  That is unusual for anything made by Stihl to be sold so reasonable .

I have 3 local dealers. 

1) cannot/willnot? do a pressure/vac test but will gladly sell you a $300 PC assy   

2) will do service and is O.K. on parts  $$$ .  Big dealer that mostly does tractors (Deere)

3) Works out of the shed out back and in the basement of his house.  He is by far the best mechanic and labor rates are the best too.  Besides that an all around nice guy and straight shooter. 

He gets nearly all my business

[Al_Smith]

All dealers aren't the same for sure .I have three also locally

1. Being the closest is the worst I've ever seen .I venture to say  that I've forgotten more than that guy will ever know about small engines .

2. Is an old established dealer and third generation .More interested in selling new units than repairing or getting parts for older stuff . Although he does very well for established long time customers .

3 . is the largest Toro/Wheel Horse dealer in the US of A . They will bend over backwards to find parts and could care less if they come from Stihl or Stens . Fact is I've spent hours just jaw jacking with him over some of the soup up jobs I've done and ones I've seen . If there was such a thing as the best dealer award  these folks would get my vote for sure .

[Cut4fun]

Why is it alway 3. i have 3 too  .

1. Closest down right stinks and dont have a clue. 15 mins one way.

2. I buy and order all my parts from and super nice owner to talk to. I dont trust his tech though after talking with him.  25 mins one way.

3. Wish he was closer, but top notch all away. Al I think you missed him but he was at the Spring racing gtg at the end when we were all shooting the  :-Xhit . 40-45 mins one way

[Al_Smith]

Tony from Amicks is a great guy too .I enjoyed talking to him when we went on that wild adventure in Indiana .

Too bad Stihl has that policy on shipping parts but good old Tony can come through with Husky parts .

Oops darned near bent this thread,sorry .Back to the 034 .

On that subject I have the bones of one in the shed that hung a piston due to a bad air filter and I got carried away with a flap wheel and totally ruined the cylinder .

Whoever had the bright idea you can't sand through nicosil evindently had never tried to because it isn't that hard to do,trust me .


Those bones will in time get fitted with an 036 cylinder and piston as that mod makes for one very powerfull 60 cc saw .

[641workmaster]

Is the clutch spindle nut a reverse thread?  Checked the piston and it appears to have some fresh aluminum dings on the edges and top which are scratching the cylinder wall.  Any idea if bad bearings would cause this?  or is it more likely the service guy dropped something in when muffler and air filter were off?  The piston has never seized.

[Al_Smith]

Yep,rule of thumb a righty side is a lefty thread and vica versa .The one exception being a right hand start saw which are few and old  too boot .

[Mad Professor]

Is the clutch spindle nut a reverse thread?  Checked the piston and it appears to have some fresh aluminum dings on the edges and top which are scratching the cylinder wall.  Any idea if bad bearings would cause this?  or is it more likely the service guy dropped something in when muffler and air filter were off?  The piston has never seized.

Could be parts of the bottom bearing/cage.  Get the flywheel and clutch off before you pull the jug.  With the jug off it will be apparent if the bearings are bad by just turning the crank.

[641workmaster]

Could be parts of the bottom bearing/cage.  Get the flywheel and clutch off before you pull the jug.  With the jug off it will be apparent if the bearings are bad by just turning the crank.

That's what I'm thinking.  After some more discussion with my dad, he revealed it didn't or was very hard to pull the first time after it stopped dead. 

Right now I've got to get a long enough screw driver to get the jug off.  I found that a 3/4" iron pipe fits on the flywheel.  If I use a pipe wrench on the iron, I should be able to get the clutch off.  Would anyone recommend this approach or do I need that $20 puller?

[Al_Smith]

Well 'no that would not be the proper way to disassemble that saw because chances are it will pretty much turn it into junk .

Block the piston by either using a nylon piston stop or a length of starter rope stuffed in the spark plug hole . Get the proper sized wrench and turn the clutch nut to the right .It's left hand thread,lefty tighty righty loosey .

On the flywhell don't be cranking in a piece of 3/4" pipe in with a pipe wrench,you're not plumbing a toilet here now .

That thread is 22 millimeter with a thread spacing of 1.5 mm not SAE plumbing threads . Even if you could crank it in the flywheel hole it would not do you much good unless you had a push thread rod inside of it .



I wish I could post a picture but I can't .However the puller works by threading inside the flywheel and then using a threaded rod inside of it which screws against the crankshaft end and thus pushes the flywheel off the crank .Puller is a bit missleading ,it actually pushes . Whatever you want to call it,it removes the flywheel .

[GASoline71]

To the OP... I have an IPL for the 034 if you would like a copy... send me a PM with your email addy...

Gary

[641workmaster]

Well 'no that would not be the proper way to disassemble that saw because chances are it will pretty much turn it into junk .

Block the piston by either using a nylon piston stop or a length of starter rope stuffed in the spark plug hole . Get the proper sized wrench and turn the clutch nut to the right .It's left hand thread,lefty tighty righty loosey .

Well the flywheel was already loose from the dealer, so I used your advice and was able to remove the clutch without much effort. 

Any resources for parts other than a Stihl dealer?  I'm thinking a gasket set, rod bearing, piston, more?  While it's apart should I replace anything else as a precaution?

[Al_Smith]

You are pretty much stuck with buying parts from Stihl .The only other option would be if somebody like Baileys might carry the parts .You might get stuff through Stens but they are wholesale so that still takes a dealer or someone with the ability to buy through them .

E-Bay is always an option also .

[Mad Professor]

Could be parts of the bottom bearing/cage.  Get the flywheel and clutch off before you pull the jug.  With the jug off it will be apparent if the bearings are bad by just turning the crank.

That's what I'm thinking.  After some more discussion with my dad, he revealed it didn't or was very hard to pull the first time after it stopped dead. 

Right now I've got to get a long enough screw driver to get the jug off.  I found that a 3/4" iron pipe fits on the flywheel.  If I use a pipe wrench on the iron, I should be able to get the clutch off.  Would anyone recommend this approach or do I need that $20 puller?

Have look to the other site I posted (Al don't like it,  sorry Al no probs with you or them). Almost a complete rebuild with pic of a 036 which is the 034S big brother. Shows how to remove/install flywheel/clutch with a rope for a piston stop.  A piece of rope and the proper wrenches, that's all you need. Besides the flywheel puller. 

If you bugger the flywheel and/or the crank it will cost a lot more than $20 for a puller. A dealer will charge you at least $$$ to pull as flywheel...........

[641workmaster]

Anybody have a spare crank they want to part with from a 034 or 036?  The cheapest new crank is about $100.  The crank cracked at the "eyelet" and shredded the connecting rod bearing cage, thus causing the piston to fail.   Otherwise the saw is in good, clean shape.

[Mad Professor]

If it is just a rod bearing why was the flywheel rubbing the case?  Are the bottom bearings/case toast too?

Also check over the cylinder as the loose metal may have scored/gouged that too.

Me thinks it's time to find another saw, either to donate parts too, or from.........

[641workmaster]

If it is just a rod bearing why was the flywheel rubbing the case?  Are the bottom bearings/case toast too?

Also check over the cylinder as the loose metal may have scored/gouged that too.

Me thinks it's time to find another saw, either to donate parts too, or from.........

You could be right about the bearings.  I had cleaned them out and there is no visible debris or damage, yet they seem to not be as smooth as my Chevy truck rear wheel bearings.  My thought on the flywheel rubbing is that the crank eyelet crack expanded when hot throwing alignment off.  Then again I'm not a mechanic. 


As far as I'm concerned, this saw is a parts saw.  Unless I can find a donor saw.  Parts from the Stihl dealer would be well over $300 now.  From Baily's...maybe half that.

[Al_Smith]

 Well,things happen 

I have a good lower end in the shed,complete saw with a screwed up top end .However I can get an after market top end cheaply from Baileys for my soup up project it would be in my best interest to do so rather than take a chance on the unknown .

Save the parts,you never know when a donor might pop up .