Author Topic: new circle miller pics (Read 11234 times)

Tripp · « **on:** June 16, 2009, 10:24:44 pm »

Here are a few pics of my Belsaw. Just trying out the picture posting process. I am on the right my dad is on the left.

Jeff · « **Reply #1 on:** June 16, 2009, 10:36:21 pm »

Good Job on the photos.

fishpharmer · « **Reply #2 on:** June 16, 2009, 10:50:23 pm »

I second that!

Nice looking setup.

Good looking chocolate lab too. Does it hunt?

Like your shed behind the mill, is it pine?

Sprucegum · « **Reply #3 on:** June 16, 2009, 11:05:11 pm »

I like that board - slide thing ya got there

Are bowsaws still common in your area? I have never seen one here.

DanG · « **Reply #4 on:** June 16, 2009, 11:54:32 pm »

Good job all around, Tripp! Pics, mill, buildings and all. I see signs of creativity around there. I'll bet you guys are having fun.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 17, 2009, 06:53:24 am »

You've got to love it,reminds me of a railroad station.Frank C.

Tripp · « **Reply #6 on:** June 17, 2009, 08:14:29 am »

Thanks for the good words.

The mill shed is made from pine. Pine is in abundance around here.

My lab is not a hunting dog, but she could have been a great one if I had worked with her some. She does hunt moles, squirrels, snakes, chickens and fish.

I see very few bow saws around here also. My dad loves his for cutting up trees after they are on the ground. He has been using one all his life and swears by it. I myself have never used one.

Tripp

Captain · « **Reply #7 on:** June 17, 2009, 08:22:14 pm »

Tripp is a real keeper, he's got himself a real fine "log dog". Great looking mill too...

Captain

Joe Lallande · « **Reply #8 on:** June 19, 2009, 06:27:37 am »

Great pictures ! Show us your power plant hook up.

Tripp · « **Reply #9 on:** June 19, 2009, 07:56:51 am »

The engine is hooked up to the mill with a drive shaft. The shaft is running off of the front output on the transfer case. This turns the saw in the proper direction but the transfer case must be run in 4 wheel drive to power the saw. I can cut in 4 low 3rd gear or 4 hi 2nd gear. I run the motor at 1600 rpm or 2100 rpm to keep the saw at its 540 rpm speed.

The drive shaft is connected to the mill via a 3 groove pulley mounted on a shaft and two pillow block bearings. From there the power is transmitted to the mandrel by 3 v belts

Burlkraft · « **Reply #10 on:** June 19, 2009, 08:56:35 am »

That is AWESOME

Nice job. Make sure we git some more pics of that baby in action!

ErikC · « **Reply #11 on:** June 19, 2009, 10:36:56 am »

That's a great looking setup tripp. It looks too kept up for my taste though. Clean floors, everythings not covered in old grease, etc.

Keep the pictures coming, I'd like to see a couple of her in action too. Welcome to the FF by the way.
Erik

Tripp · « **Reply #12 on:** June 19, 2009, 10:24:46 pm »

I should be cutting again in a day or two. Gotta drop a few trees first.
I will try to get a few pics of the mill in action.
Thanks for the interest.
Tripp

tyb525 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 19, 2009, 10:50:21 pm »

That is a very nice looking setup. Looks like it could be a historical "museum". Where/how do you dry and store your lumber?

thecfarm · « **Reply #14 on:** June 20, 2009, 04:16:50 am »

Tripp,welcome to the forum.A nice setup.What's all the lumber being used for.How long have you been sawing? I see you cut your own trees.How are you getting the trees out of the woods to the sawmill?

Tripp · « **Reply #15 on:** June 20, 2009, 07:59:37 am »

I have only been sawing for about 3 or 4 months. I hope to start selling some of the lumber I am producing. Right now it is all stickered and air drying under the end of my shop.

Most of the trees we have cut are on our property so its not too far to get them to the mill.
I made a small hauler out of a 2 wheel car dolly. It works well on logs up to about 16 ft max. It also doubles as a lumber carrier when the boards come off the mill.

Tripp

fishpharmer · « **Reply #16 on:** June 20, 2009, 10:02:58 am »

Now thats a nice engine setup. Don't pull the engine. Just pull the frame, radiator, engine and all. Thats ingenieous.

You know what would really be entertaining is to go ahead and put a seat and steering wheel in there too. Everyone would want to drive the sawmill.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 21, 2009, 06:59:46 am »

After that engine runs for a wile you probibly won't need that little wood stove,nice to have a warm place to eat your lunch.Frank C.

Don K · « **Reply #18 on:** June 21, 2009, 07:12:21 am »

Welcome to the the Forum, Tripp. First time I've ever seen a 4 wheel drive saw.

Very ingenious. Nice looking setup you have there. The bow saw pic brought back old memories for me. That is the kind of saw I first learned to use.

Don

Tripp · « **Reply #19 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:12:39 pm »

No wood stove needed today. The heat index reached 110.

Used the stove this winter while I was getting the mill up and running. It might be nice again this winter but I am a little scared to use it with all the sawdust around. A good friend of mine lost his whole woodworking shop about ten years ago. He was burning scrap wood outside and walked to the house to get lunch. By the time he had walked about 200 yds It was too late. The whole thing burned to the ground. He works mainly with old heart pine. That stuff is like gasoline.

Here are a few more pics I took today.

Thanks

Tripp

beenthere · « **Reply #20 on:** June 21, 2009, 09:55:30 pm »

Tripp
Very neat setup. Thanks for the pics.

Don K · « **Reply #21 on:** June 22, 2009, 06:29:10 am »

You just can't beat the look of tooth marks on boards cut on a circle mill. For the longest time when I was growing up that was about all I saw on old houses and barns.

Don

StorminN · « **Reply #22 on:** June 22, 2009, 12:08:04 pm »

Looks like a very tidy setup you've got there, Tripp... I don't know how you do it in that heat, I wouldn't be able to sit still without sweating!

Is that a sawdust conveyor that I see on the other side of the motor house? I assume it runs under the house? Did you fabricate it your self? Got any pics?

-Norm.

beenthere · « **Reply #23 on:** June 22, 2009, 02:09:05 pm »

Norm
Tripp slipped some new pics into another thread, that show more of his interesting sawdust conveyor

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,37827.0.html

I like the circle saw tooth marks for more character too.

Ga. bow-man · « **Reply #24 on:** June 22, 2009, 04:39:16 pm »

ron
check the last part of =Folely-Belsaw M-14 Mill « 1 2 All »
story to see dust chain set up

beenthere · « **Reply #25 on:** June 22, 2009, 05:23:25 pm »

Allen morris
Welcome to the forum.
Hope to get to know you better.

Ron R. · « **Reply #26 on:** June 23, 2009, 10:48:16 pm »

I saw that little set-up for moving the saw dust. Pretty nice set-up. Was thinking on the same line except I'm gonna have to 90 degree mine so I can move the dust out to the off bearing end of the mill. Of course gotta get the mill set up first so I can do some figuring and head scratching and come up with a course of action $:-\$

Tripp · « **Reply #27 on:** June 24, 2009, 08:57:50 am »

Here are a couple of short clips we shot yesterday while sawing. That's my dad doing the off bearing. aka Georgia Bow Man.

stonebroke · « **Reply #28 on:** June 24, 2009, 10:58:00 am »

Nice setup. How is it powered?

Stonebroke

Ron R. · « **Reply #29 on:** June 24, 2009, 02:40:50 pm »

Nice videos Tripp. Like to see some of the off bearing end. I've seen how you set up to flip the sawed boards away from the carriage but would like to see a video of it sometime...Great post.................Ron

beenthere · « **Reply #30 on:** June 24, 2009, 04:25:13 pm »

Tripp

Good videos.

Maybe keep all your pics and things going on with your mill in one thread. Then they fit together for a more complete story.

Here is the one showing the power plant.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,38005.msg548749.html#msg548749

and there is another showing the sawdust elevator.

Tripp · « **Reply #31 on:** June 25, 2009, 07:28:49 pm »

The mill is powered by a 1971 inline six Toyota Landcruiser engine.

Here are a couple of pics from the off bearing side. If we saw tomorrow I will try to shoot some video from that side.

Tripp

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #32 on:** June 25, 2009, 08:40:59 pm »

Tripp,nice offbearers slanted table,does that offer handy one man operation?does it get the slab and boards away from the saw? would you change anything if rebuilding it.sorry for so many questions but thats why were here.Thanks Frank C.

fishpharmer · « **Reply #33 on:** June 26, 2009, 02:53:55 am »

Great videos. And pictures.

It looks so much cooler there in GA compared to MS

Tripp · « **Reply #34 on:** June 26, 2009, 07:22:35 pm »

Something tells me you Mississippi millers are experiencing the same heat!

I am pretty well pleased with the mill setup. If I were to do anything different I would enlarge my sawdust box under the mill. I get a fair amount of dust that doesn't make it into the box. Not much of a problem though. Just a few shovelfuls after a half day milling.

I run the mill a fair amount by myself. The slanted table works great but you have to keep an eye on the slabs and boards piling up. Cut a log or two then walk around and clear the pile.

Here is a clip we shot today from the off bearers side of the mill.

Tripp

tonto · « **Reply #35 on:** June 27, 2009, 10:42:10 am »

Hey Tripp. This is one beautiful set-up. It must be nice not have to worry about the snow loads like we have to up north so you can keep the roof angles low. I like your storage set up. Your set-up looks very innovative - I love to see that. It looks like it took a while to get going, but I bet it was worth every hour. Nice pics and videos, keep them coming. And welcome to the forum. Good luck and happy sawing, Tonto.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #36 on:** June 28, 2009, 06:52:11 am »

Tripper,are those timbers the track is mounted on one piece or laminated planks,they appear heavy enough.Are they set on pressure treated sleepers on the ground or is their a dug foundation??Frank C.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #37 on:** June 28, 2009, 07:00:44 am »

Whops,just looked at outher photos those are steel box tube,with a large dose of overkill.Of course its hard to make any part of a circular mill too heavy.Do you just flip the logs and cants on the carriage ,Tripp ,or do you have some outher means of turning them?? Frank C.

Tripp · « **Reply #38 on:** June 30, 2009, 07:48:59 am »

Right now the only means I have to turn logs on the carriage is by hand. We turn them off the carriage and they land on two supported wooden flip blocks. This way it takes all the pounding stress off of the carriage.

I guess an upward pushing hyd cylinder could be used to kick the log up and over.

The mill is setup on pressure treated 6X6 sleepers. The sleepers are tied to treated 4X4 which are about 3ft in the ground.

Tripp

tractorg25 · « **Reply #39 on:** June 30, 2009, 12:17:45 pm »

I currently use four bow bar saws. one pro mac 700, one Poulan pro 345 and two stihls 044s

Ga. bow-man · « **Reply #40 on:** July 02, 2009, 08:53:26 pm »

tractorg25

Not many of us bow saw runners left.
I run 2 stihls bows,028wb bought new with bow and a ms290fb with a after mkt. bow. Maybe you can start a post on
chain saw site and see how many bow runners are left.

Tripp · « **Reply #41 on:** July 03, 2009, 08:05:40 pm »

I was reading a book about chainsaws and felling techniques last night. The author says that bow saws are most often seen in the southeastern United States. Hardly anywhere else. He also stated that in the right hands they were extremely fast and effective. In the wrong hands very dangerous.

Tripp

Tripp · « **Reply #42 on:** July 03, 2009, 08:31:52 pm »

Sawed a load by myself yesterday morning. That little bell mill is a joy to operate. Some days you have good wood and no troubles. Those are the kind of days we all like!

Tripp

Sprucegum · « **Reply #43 on:** July 05, 2009, 08:14:58 pm »

Nice load Tripp.

How many logs were involved in that?

Tripp · « **Reply #44 on:** July 06, 2009, 01:35:54 pm »

I think it was about a dozen or so. I cut a few 4X4's and some other 1X material that was not in the pic. If I calculated correctly it was about 700 bf.

Tripp

Tripp · « **Reply #45 on:** August 01, 2009, 02:21:30 pm »

Added on some new roof and floor space to the mill. Nice to have more storage and working area. Also gives a lot of much needed shade while milling.

Don K · « **Reply #46 on:** August 01, 2009, 08:27:01 pm »

Looking good tripp. You shore keep a clean millsite. That must be what the lights are for, to clean up after dark.

Don

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #47 on:** August 01, 2009, 10:45:37 pm »

So, now you're going to have to explain that building in the background. The high one that has a tomato soup color. Is that your garage next to the mill?

Woodchuck53 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 01, 2009, 11:02:16 pm »

Evening Tripp, that is a fine set up. I'm jealous of you of course. We shut down our rebuild to get the old shop tore down and the garage built. Want be long but boy you sure give me the itch. Like your lumber shed also well thought out and looks breezy on these 100 plus days. Keep the pics. coming we really enjoy looking at how our fellow millers approach things. Safe sawing, Chuck

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #49 on:** August 02, 2009, 06:25:46 am »

Chuck,been wondering where you were haven't heard from you.I've always told the powers that be that I need the mill so I can do the outher projects ,dosen't always work.Frank C.

LeeB · « **Reply #50 on:** August 02, 2009, 07:33:12 am »

That's cool. I've never seen a circle mill run before. Is that what's known as a hand set mill? How do you set thickness?

Tripp · « **Reply #51 on:** August 02, 2009, 09:18:11 pm »

yep, the mill would be considered a hand set mill. You pull a handle on the mill which advances the log outward to the desired thickness of the cut. There is a scale on the back of the mill that you read the thickness of the cut off of. You can also set a stop so the head blocks advance the same amount for each pull of the handle. If you are making multiple cuts of the same thickness you give the handle a full pull, send the log through the saw and repeat.

The red building in the background is my shop. I started building the tower one day with a friend after a few too many adult beverages. It's fun to go up and look out of every now and then. Kids and adults like to climb up there and check out the view. It has also had the unintentional benefit of pulling hot air up and out of the shop. If you stand on the stairs in the tower there is always a strong pull of air going up and out.

My dad and I cut some red oak this weekend on the mill. This was the first time we have cut anything other than pine, small hickory, and cedar. We cut two red oak logs that were in the 20 inch plus range on the butt ends. The oak was a handful to mill. Much much heavier than a pine log of the same size. Made a 6 by 14 mantel for my neighbor and some beautiful clear boards.

Tripp

Hilltop366 · « **Reply #52 on:** August 02, 2009, 10:03:05 pm »

Real nice setup you got there!

I was wondering what the tower was in the back of the pic too.

I bet it seemed like a good idea at the time, and turned out to be!

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #53 on:** August 03, 2009, 05:30:54 am »

Tripper, theirs a big differance between pine and oak and the power to cut it,bet you dropped your transmission down at least one gear to cut it. My old mill had a four speed truck trany to adjust the feed, oak I always dropped her down.I like to cut and use oak seems to me to be half way between wood and steel.Frank C.

Tripp · « **Reply #54 on:** August 03, 2009, 06:38:51 pm »

I agree on the feed rate and power needed. I was having a hard time feeding the log slow enough so it would cut well. It seems like I need a different set of pulleys for hardwood or at least large hardwood. My blade is 40 inches so a 20 inch plus log is about max for me. I had the most trouble when we were cutting 15 inch wide planks.

Right now for pine I am using 9/32 standall bits. Are these alright to use in hardwood?

Tripp

woody1 · « **Reply #55 on:** August 03, 2009, 06:54:53 pm »

Very nice setup ! I never saw a taper on the offbearer side of the mill like that. It looks like the boards just slide down to the stickers. How do you like that setup ?
Woody

Tripp · « **Reply #56 on:** August 03, 2009, 07:37:18 pm »

I really like the way it works for my small mill. It allows the slabs and boards too pile up for awhile while I am milling alone. The negative side is that you must bend over to pick them up. I may try to build some kind of controllable conveyor to sort the slabs from lumber.

I am also very new to this game and this is the only set up I have ever used. I've still got a lot to learn and the mill lets me know that quite regularly.

Tripp

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #57 on:** August 04, 2009, 06:22:54 am »

Tripper, sure 9/32 bits are fine I don't know anyone that mills mixed hard and soft that changes their bits for it.Standall bits are pretty much the standard now around here but they require a little more hp.My old mill was powered by a cat 318 diesel and would be pushing black smoke when I was in oak.The best solution for me was to slow the feed slightly.Takes some real gut wrenching power when your saw is up to the hilt in oak.Frank C.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #58 on:** August 04, 2009, 05:22:45 pm »

I've never used standalls. If you aren't in frozen wood, you don't need them. Standalls are designed to lower the speed of the dust that enters into the gullet. It also helps to prevent leakage of dust from around the tooth.

What most guys use in my area are winter shanks and regular teeth. Winter shanks do the same thing as the standall bits. But, the gullet area is smaller. That's why I went from an F pattern saw to a B pattern saw...to increase the gullet area. We run the winter shanks all year long and get a couple of million bf per set of shanks.

You apparently don't have enough hp to pull your log through your saw. When you slow down your feed rate, your sawdust changes more to powder. If your shanks aren't good, then the dust spills down along the sides of the saw and will push your saw, or heat it up. So it kind of feeds on itself. You go slower, the dust changes, the saw changes, so you go slower again.

Rule-of-thumb on hp is 5 hp/inch of wood. So, you should have 75 hp to cut that 15" board. Your lumber does look consistent throughout the board. So, you're not forcing your cut.

In order to maintain good feed rates in oak, you need to have sharp teeth. I also do my best cutting with long teeth. But, my headsaw speed is 690 RPM. Short teeth always seems to get dull pretty quick.

Another killer may be belt slippage.

JSNH · « **Reply #59 on:** August 04, 2009, 05:31:08 pm »

My saw doc said for full speed you need 20HP per tooth in the cut. I run a 2 1/2" on a 52" blade. It doesn't like oak but small logs I can do with reduced feed rates. I have a 100HP motor. I also have a blade with 3" shanks it works better in the hard wood. Fewer teeth in the cut. Each tooth is designed to take 0.1" of wood. With the 2 1/2" I have too many teeth trying to cut. It's ok on soft wood but the hard wood is well, hard.

Woodchuck53 · « **Reply #60 on:** August 05, 2009, 01:18:36 am »

Morning Frank. Yep the powers that be can sure throw a snag into things. We've been busy with projects, weddings and births around here. Hope to get back to the mill this fall. My sawing buddy is layed off out of the woods so he's doing all my sawing in trade for his welding so at least the wood supply is staying up there. We are also busy off shore so know rest for the weary. How's your operation coming? Sawed any big stuff lately? Hope to see some more pics. Tripp sure has it going well. Thats a fine set up. Anyway hope to have the honey do's out of the way one day. Take care of your self. Chuck

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #61 on:** August 05, 2009, 06:34:20 am »

Good to hear from you Chuck,sent you a PM,was worried thought mayby your rig went down.Do you guys ever fish off those towers?? Frank C.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #62 on:** August 05, 2009, 06:49:44 am »

Tripp,your doing a good job with what you cut.Keep your eyes peeled for a good sized diesel,the old long stroke,slow turning ones.The old cable backhoes and shovels had some dandys with clutches and radiators, all skid mounted.Most of those old shovels the bottom wore out long before the engine.What you have works well but your a builder and the type that will keep improving things.Frank C.

Tripp · « **Reply #63 on:** August 05, 2009, 10:24:56 pm »

I probably have multiple problems when sawing large hardwood logs. My engine hp is around 100 so It is probably adequate, but I am running a 3 v belt pulley off of the drive shaft. I imagine that it is slipping some under a heavy load. Also my electronic cruise control does not perform well under heavy load conditions. It wants to speed up too much or shut down if my feed rate is not perfect. I am currently looking for a belt drive governor to attach to the motor. Hopefully that will smooth the power out. I may also may need to add a belt or two to the mandrel to prevent slippage. Not sure if 3 belts are adequate to transmit full hp to the saw?

95 percent of the logs I saw do not give me any problems. Just the large ones. But I will say I really enjoyed seeing those big oak slabs stacking up at the end of the mill.

Tripp

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #64 on:** August 06, 2009, 05:59:26 am »

Although you have 100 hp from the motor, you can't put 100 hp through 3 belts. Maximum for a D belt is about 25 hp/belt.

You need a copy of a booklet put out by the Forest Service about circle mills. I can't find my copy at the moment. But, I'm sure that someone can chime in on the author's name (Lindstrum?) and a link. I think its available on the net.

apm · « **Reply #65 on:** August 06, 2009, 08:45:29 am »

Hey Tripp,

Shoot me a PM, I've got a belt drive governor you're welcome to if you can use it.

Greg

Jeff · « **Reply #66 on:** August 06, 2009, 08:51:39 am »

Link below is the printable document

CIRCULAR SAWMILLS. AND THEIR. EFFICIENT OPERATION by. Stanford J. Lunstrum. Sawmill Specialist. USDA Forest Service. State and Private Forestry

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #67 on:** August 07, 2009, 07:19:35 am »

Tripp,most likely you have three "B" series belts on you rig now with a fair wind and smallish pine logs they will work but will be sorely lacking on oak.Probibly you should have twice as much belt.The size of the pulleys plays a big role the larger the diameter of the sheves[pulleys] the less belt you need.Your up and running now so no big rush I'd haunt junk yards and used equip dealers and locate pulleys and belt their too expensive new.Some will dissagree but all horse power is not created equal ,torque and the ability to lug and hold RPM's under load are most important on a mill.The older slow turning diesels handle it best.But what you have works good so I'd just rebelt it,keep us posted you've got a class operation there Tripp.Frank C.

Tripp · « **Reply #68 on:** August 07, 2009, 08:23:47 am »

Thanks for all the input.

Looks like I will be looking for a way to add a couple more belts to my system.

I also want to thank APM for offering me his belt drive governor. I will let you all know how it works when I get it installed.

Also thanks to Beenthere for offering a copy of Lunstrums book.

You forum folks are very generous and knowledgeable.

Tripp

Chico · « **Reply #69 on:** August 07, 2009, 07:15:33 pm »

I prefer power bands on a headrig less slippage and no twist but you do have to protect they but a wiper on each sheave usually does the trick

Tripp · « **Reply #70 on:** August 07, 2009, 08:44:21 pm »

Are power bands belts attached together with a flat belt around the outside? Do they transmit significantly more power?

Tripp

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #71 on:** August 07, 2009, 10:56:18 pm »

I'm not sure if its significantly more power. But, you get rid of where the you have a couple of belts that are just a little longer than the others, and they flop. They're not carrying their end of the hp load. Everything runs together and gives the optimum in power transmission.

We don't use them on the mill, but we do use them on the debarker. I think expense might be a factor.

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #72 on:** August 08, 2009, 09:35:54 am »

Gday

pretty fair size logs your pushing through there tripp

like you said its only 5% of the time it struggles most mills have a point where they do anyway ;)pwr bands arnt cheap but they have their place on things

i prefer single belts on sawmill drives

Reguards Chris

Tripp · « **Reply #73 on:** August 08, 2009, 01:28:16 pm »

I am thinking 5 or 6 belts is the way to go. I have room to add another 2 or 3 groove pulley
set to the mill. I have had the saw hang a time or two and the belt drive is my only safety mechanism. I would like a good transfer of power, but I still need a weak link if something goes wrong.

Tripp

Chico · « **Reply #74 on:** August 08, 2009, 02:16:17 pm »

They are a little more expensive but the life of them is much longer if taken care of and power transmission is the advantage but I do agree with having a weak link one thing that I personally would do if I were sawing on a friction feed is fix a kill switch within easy reach I
made all chipper oper debarker opers wear a lanyard with a link in it to the control power so if they stumbled or fell the machine would sop you could do the same thing with ignition or fuel pumps just a safety thought
Chico

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #75 on:** August 11, 2009, 07:16:18 am »

Tripp,how wide are the belts your using ?Checked my mill have 6 "C" section belts{7/8"] for 100 hp diesel.Most of the published specs. are for commercial mills and high production.Smaller mills can get away with a little less.What I do to help tension the belts and reduce the stress on the arbor is make a tensioner.Mount a pillow block bearing outboard of your pulley on the saw arbor ,allthread rod in a pipe, to close to the engine pulley with a nut to adjust it .Frank C.

Tripp · « **Reply #76 on:** August 13, 2009, 07:31:40 am »

Measured my belts yesterday and they are 5/8 wide. I'm sure I need to add a few more since they are on the small side.

I like franks' idea about a belt tensioner. I've put that on my to do list.

Hope to start installing the governor APM sent me today.

Tripp

Tripp · « **Reply #77 on:** August 13, 2009, 05:55:05 pm »

Governor is installed. Waiting on an e-mail from Pierce Governors to finish tuning.

Tripp · « **Reply #78 on:** August 14, 2009, 10:29:54 pm »

Did some cutting today with the governor installed. I can say without a doubt that it works much better than the electronic cruise control. With a little more fine tuning it will be even better.

Tripp

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #79 on:** August 15, 2009, 06:35:26 am »

Thats good news Tripp,those mechanical governors can be tricky to adjust right ,sometimes they over compensate or hunt.I'am sure Pierce has instructions.The old Gravely two wheel tractors used a Pierce governor a little smaller than yours driven from the back side of a vee belt,they would probibly work unless the carbs throttle linkage was bindy.Frank C.

DWM II · « **Reply #80 on:** August 16, 2009, 08:05:43 am »

What a great thread!, Ive learned more about circle mills in the last 20 minutes than in the last five years. I really like your set up, kinda inspiring too. Keep up the good (hard) work.

Tripp · « **Reply #81 on:** August 17, 2009, 09:11:07 pm »

I Feel like I gotta new mill. That governor sure works good.

I added a PTO cable at the sawyers box so I could throttle down the motor. That way It can be started easily and brought back to idle if necessary. A length of chain at the carb end lets the governor work without binding.

Tripp

pierre · « **Reply #82 on:** August 17, 2009, 10:05:52 pm »

You could make some money just to make some setup of old belsaw sawmill anywhere in america. With a service truck and all. Do you will put an advise on the left side of the screen ?

Really, you have done a great job, i will tell you that im a little bit jealous. If belsaw were doing some new m-14 sawmill, they could make some visits to your sawmill plant with some future buyers...

Please to the moderator, never erase this topic, it will always help all the belsaw sawyers.
Imagine, all the people who have some rusty m14 in their land or barn, and the peoples who still running it, but unknow of us all because they dont go on the net. We never know which improvement or ideas they put on these simple tools. I heard the bandsaw millers laughing....

It cost just 3000 $ for mine. And for the first time since 5 years, i bought 200 new tooth, 350.00 $. I had find the others one in close old sawmills . Just do my budget as a weekend sawmiller.

Thanks for all the pictures, it push the readers to put some of theirs own on the forum.
Pierre

farmboy1tn · « **Reply #83 on:** August 17, 2009, 10:30:53 pm »

feels good every time you improve your mill

apm · « **Reply #84 on:** August 18, 2009, 07:51:03 pm »

Great job, Tripp! Don't you just love it when a plan comes together? It's a real bonus when the plan works out as well as you'd hoped.

Can't imagine you've got much left to do the mill, so I guess it's on to the planer, huh?

Greg

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #85 on:** August 19, 2009, 06:06:58 am »

A circular mill should never be considered complete,always look for ways to improve.If their are jobs around the mill you dislike modify and make it easier.Their is no better improvement than even a simple shed roof.The greatest work saver is an effective sawdust removal system,close on its heels is a slab handling setup.Visit with outher millers in your area I've learned something from every mill I've seen even if it was what not to do.Frank C.

Ga. bow-man · « **Reply #86 on:** August 19, 2009, 06:56:36 am »

bandmiller2
Frank, oh how well said. What we can learn from others i
see every day on this web site. Watching other mills run is
like a kid going to Disney land.

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #87 on:** August 19, 2009, 09:48:23 am »

Gday

Bow-man You know what happens then tho

we revert to being kids and want one of everything

Regards Chris

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