Author Topic: elect. chainsaw sharpeners (Read 5226 times)

Banjo picker · « **on:** May 20, 2009, 08:55:08 am »

How about who's using what and what they do or do not like about it. I tried the search and it ain't workin.

Tim

pineywoods · « **Reply #1 on:** May 20, 2009, 09:03:36 am »

Have one of them cheap harbor freight jobs. ($29.95 special) mostly plastic and does have some limitations, but it works just fine for me. Use it 5 times and it's paid for. I don't run a chain until it's so dull it takes a lot of grinding to get it sharp.

beenthere · « **Reply #2 on:** May 20, 2009, 10:18:23 am »

I only use an electric if damage from nails, rocks, or wire, etc.
Hand file is my preference, and takes no more time than setting up the electric. Again, just my preference.
A good sharp file takes one to two strokes per tooth.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #3 on:** May 20, 2009, 10:43:28 am »

i had an oregon model, I gave it to a tree service guy.

I find that a file is the way to go (much faster)...

sawmilllawyer · « **Reply #4 on:** May 20, 2009, 10:44:17 am »

Mostly hand file until the teeth need a grinding. Then I have the Harbor Frieght special like Pineywoods. Not the best set up but my chains are sharp and they cut well. The electric sharpener really shines on chains that have rock, wire, dirt or metal damage. Couple times around with a light to medium grind does the job. Set up is kinda picky on the sharpener but once it is dialed in seems to do good work.

Ed · « **Reply #5 on:** May 20, 2009, 11:01:21 am »

Handfile and jig....unless the chain gets rocked real bad.
A friend has a Stihl SG, he'll straighten 'em out for me.

Ed

sablatnic · « **Reply #6 on:** May 20, 2009, 12:09:34 pm »

Handfile and jig. (Jig from Oregon). Only grind, if the teeth has become hard because of grinding somewhere else. I repair chainsaws for a living. And sharpen "other people's chains" too. Has been doing that for about 25 years.

beenthere · « **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2009, 12:21:48 pm »

sablatnic
Where abouts are you located? Nothing in your bio for a clue.

thanks

Cut4fun · « **Reply #8 on:** May 20, 2009, 12:25:13 pm »

I like the edge of hand filed best.
But I got tired of everyones rocked out chains and bought a stihl USG. Love it, wouldn't want anything different besides a Silvey Pro sharp for square and even get some pretty fast machine sharpened round chains off the USG.

sablatnic · « **Reply #9 on:** May 20, 2009, 01:07:52 pm »

Hi Beenthere

I live in Denmark. And yes. We do have trees here. ;-)

beenthere · « **Reply #10 on:** May 20, 2009, 02:26:07 pm »

I thought you would have them there.

What is the history of the trees there?
Mostly plantation grown since the WWII era? or natural growth?

Are there trees over 70 years old that may have shrapnel from the war buried deep inside them?
I have heard that such buried artifacts were a problem in the Belgium and French forests, where many years of high quality wood grew over the buried metal from the fighting, causing sawing problems when trying to recover that wood.

Just interested in what you find in your forests now.

Glad to have you part of the forum here.

Do you have a sawmill or do logging?

mike_van · « **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2009, 04:57:45 pm »

Tim, I've got the Efco grinder - Over 10 years now, not a problem with it.

ladylake · « **Reply #12 on:** May 20, 2009, 05:50:27 pm »

Oregon 511a here, you'ld have to be realy fast hand filing to beat it for speed. Steve

Devon · « **Reply #13 on:** May 20, 2009, 07:35:40 pm »

I use a Simington 451B swingarm grinder. Sharpens full chisel and round, grinds gullets and I have a raker depth attachment for it as well. Nice machine. I highly recommend it.

sablatnic · « **Reply #14 on:** May 20, 2009, 07:49:23 pm »

Hi beenthere

About our trees:
No. We have no problems with WWII shrapnel, since we didn't have much fighting. The nazis just took over all of the country one morning. April 9. 1945.
We see a bit of slugs from hunting, but not enough to be a problem, but you are right about France and Belgium having problems, and that is from WWI too. The Morgan car factory has had quite som problems because of that, I know.
Our trees now are mostly planted, but with some "semi naturel growth"too. (We harrow to cover the acorns and beechnuts, and weed the unwanted plants). We started planting about 200 years ago, when we had only 3% of forrest. We had 11% in 2000 and are working on 20% by 2100.
This is very brief, I know, and just the result of googling for about an hour.
No. No logging, and no sawmill. I just sell and repair saws. And brushcutters and lawnmowers. Been at it for the last 25 years. Don't know why, but maybe I like the people. Or the money? :-D

Going to bed now. It is late night / early morning. 01:45.

Jeff · « **Reply #15 on:** May 20, 2009, 08:50:18 pm »

Search services have been restored.

Corley5 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 20, 2009, 09:21:16 pm »

I've got a Maxx grinder. Haven't hand filed a chain since I've had it

Banjo picker · « **Reply #17 on:** May 20, 2009, 10:49:46 pm »

Thanks for all the replys, i thank you all for answering. I hand file, and have gotten pretty good at it, but when i have someone helping, its nice to have several chains around to be able to just change out when they get one in the dirt or rocks, and i have a heck of a time taking the time to put a dull chain back on the saw to sharpen it.

Thanks again Tim

PineNut · « **Reply #18 on:** May 20, 2009, 11:17:31 pm »

I have a sharpener from Harbor Freight. Not great but it gets the job done if I have do a serious job. But most of the time I would rather not have to pull the chain so it doesn’t get used too much.

Heywood · « **Reply #19 on:** May 21, 2009, 07:29:31 pm »

This must be a good topic to ask a curiosity question?
I sharpen exclusively with a file and I don't use a jig or guide of any kind. I use the chain until it gets down to about half the original cutter size, then I retire it with the thought that should I ever get a sharpener, or find a service that I trust to do a good joy, I might have that chain done.
Trouble is I never throw things away and my collection of chains is getting rather large.
How far do you guys take the cutters down?

Heywood

LeeB · « **Reply #20 on:** May 21, 2009, 07:47:10 pm »

Till there ain't no more. Most of the chains I buy have a line scribed across the top. I take it to that line.

Rocky_J · « **Reply #21 on:** May 21, 2009, 07:58:13 pm »

I usually take them almost to the scribe mark. Some brands of chain don't have scribe marks, so in that case just keep sharpening them until they won't cut any more or you run out of tooth.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #22 on:** May 21, 2009, 08:42:11 pm »

I go to the line too... if you file the rakers down, about the time a chain is wore out is when it's cutting really good....

it also lets you see how well you file, all the teeth should hit the line about the same time.

I give each tooth 3 strokes when gassing up.

Banjo picker · « **Reply #23 on:** May 22, 2009, 08:01:23 am »

I file almost down to the line, or to where it would be if the chain had one. But when you get down that small the chance of a tooth breaking off goes up, so a need to be a little extra careful with the PPE. Tim

Cut4fun · « **Reply #24 on:** May 22, 2009, 12:58:12 pm »

While you guys are on the topic of electric grinders still.

I am looking for a Stihl USG Square grinder attachment to put back.

olyman · « **Reply #25 on:** May 22, 2009, 09:29:34 pm »

How about who's using what and what they do or do not like about it. I tried the search and it ain't workin.

Tim
[/quote] go to northern hydraulics. they have a sharpener that looks a lot like the oregon one,for 90 small ones. works great--have one. dont hand file anymore. less im hurting in the woods.

Tim/South · « **Reply #26 on:** May 22, 2009, 10:52:03 pm »

I use an old Foley Bellsaw grinder.
I grew up not knowing there was anything other than a hand file. When Dad bought the bar mounted file guild I thought we had gone space age.

I really like the old Foley. The chain seat is on an upward angle. The adjustments are quick and simple. I have not compared it to the newer models so I do not know their features.
I have a Foley Sharp All that we never have used. It also has a chain sharpening attachment. I have not figured out how that critter works yet.

Tony · « **Reply #27 on:** May 23, 2009, 07:53:23 pm »

Quote from: pineywoods on May 20, 2009, 09:03:36 am

Have one of them cheap harbor freight jobs. ($29.95 special) mostly plastic and does have some limitations, but it works just fine for me. Use it 5 times and it's paid for. I don't run a chain until it's so dull it takes a lot of grinding to get it sharp.

Quote from: PineNut on May 20, 2009, 11:17:31 pm

I have a sharpener from Harbor Freight. Not great but it gets the job done if I have do a serious job. But most of the time I would rather not have to pull the chain so it doesn’t get used too much.

I'm in with the Piney boys. El-cheapo here Harbor Freight, haven't used it enough to pass judgement yet

Tony

Tim L · « **Reply #28 on:** May 23, 2009, 09:24:46 pm »

I've got a speed sharp from Baileys and love it.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 24, 2009, 07:41:08 am »

I have had the Oregon type for 33 yrs. still use it,also have a silvey square grinder,I file too.The big advantage to grinding is the chain gets removed and the bar groove cleaned,if a fella just files he tends to not remove the chain and clean the saw, just touch up.A well ground chain touched up in the woods with a file once or so is my prefered method.I use the chain down to the nubbins,short teeth a great for pine.Frank C.

Banjo picker · « **Reply #30 on:** May 25, 2009, 11:06:05 am »

Well it would seem i have some research to do as the responses are wide and varied. Harbor Freight has the lead , but I think that large numbers of units out there is the reason. I won't get but one chance, so I hope I pick one that I will be happy with.

Tim

chucker · « **Reply #31 on:** May 25, 2009, 11:18:42 am »

picked up my bench top elec. at northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company for 150.00 couple years ago works just fine if you have a hand full of chains to do !!! after hiting the line on the tooth,there still good for knocking down stumps..

nmurph · « **Reply #32 on:** May 26, 2009, 08:27:20 am »

i bought an Oregon 511a from ebay for not much more than the Bailey's knock-off, and i didn't have to worry about rigging it (shims) to perform consistantly. it works well. i really like being able to take old chains which are out of spec and getting them cutting like new.

madhatte · « **Reply #33 on:** May 27, 2009, 10:44:33 pm »

My shop just got one of the cheapo Harbor Freight jobs, and while I too am a hand-filer, I will definitely be able to salvage more of the badly-rocked loops now than I used to. It's kind of chintzy, but it does the trick putting everything back to true and even.

Banjo picker · « **Reply #34 on:** May 27, 2009, 10:52:40 pm »

Thanks for all the response --BUT would someone explain in laymans terms the difference between the 30 dollar and the 300 + dollar units.

Tim

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 28, 2009, 06:05:20 am »

B picker,spring for a silvey grinder,put a mirror behind it so you can see a big poop eating grin everytime you use it.They are pricey but are built the way American machinery used to be built,and will serve you for several lifetimes.Frank C.

mike_van · « **Reply #36 on:** May 28, 2009, 06:10:23 am »

I'd have to say [like most stuff] the chaing kai chek models will be poorly made out of cheaper material. The pricier models would last a lifetime, even used commercially.

Rocky_J · « **Reply #37 on:** May 28, 2009, 07:15:34 am »

The cheap units have more slop so they aren't as accurate.

ENTS · « **Reply #38 on:** May 29, 2009, 08:39:13 pm »

B Picker,

Look at it this way, you can pick up a really elcheapo, POC, made in china, PLASTIC, flimsy, sloppy banjo. Yes, you can tune it, play a tune on it, make some music, but it just doesn't sound right. And eventually, it'll fall apart. Now you spend some $$s on a fine instrument and it just plays better, resonates just right, holds tune, easy to play, makes you smile just to pick it up, can't wait to play it, can't put it down once you start playing it, pass it on to your kids, etc. etc. etc.

Maybe it's the German in me but I believe you get what you pay for. Not to say those chinese grinders can't be made to do a good job, thousands of them are out there and their owners seem to be happy. I have a MAXX. It's a good grinder but as BM2 mentioned, I'd love to have that "...big poop eating grin..." on my face with a Silvey. Not all can afford them, they are REALLY expensive but do the job like that expensive banjo plays.

Not much help here in this post but I wish you luck in your search. BTW, I rarely use the MAXX since I file by hand (unless I try trenching with my chain saw).

Later,

Devon · « **Reply #39 on:** May 29, 2009, 10:54:52 pm »

If you are interested in a decent grinder, I would recommend a new Simington swing arm. They are $60-80 cheaper than the Silvey, you can buy it directly from the manufacturer, it will grind both round & square, and you can purchase a raker grinder attachment that is pretty cool. The Simington has more adjustment than the Silvey also.

Banjo picker · « **Reply #40 on:** May 29, 2009, 11:19:51 pm »

Man o man ENTS you do know how to make a point. I have already gone on the Silvey site and looked at their products. Wish i could see them in person.

Devon I will chech out the Simington would be nice to grind both. Tim

ENTS · « **Reply #41 on:** May 30, 2009, 07:05:10 am »

Devon,

If I'm not mistaken, and someone will correct me if I'm wrong, Simington grinders were not manufactured for some time. They just recently came back into production. Nothing but great reviews from what I could find. What I have not been able to do is find a web site for them and/or prices. Got any clues here?

Later,

Devon · « **Reply #42 on:** May 30, 2009, 07:57:02 am »

ENTS,

I've heard that Simington & Silvey got involved in a legal dispute. The Silvey swingarm is supposedly a real close copy of an early version of the Simington swingarm............many parts will readily interchange. I do not know how everything was resolved, but Silvey seems to have a decent dealer network and Simington has none (that I know of).

Simington does not have a website and I don't know of any retailers selling their products. There phone number is 1-888-247-6702. He quoted me either $769 or $789, (can't remember) for a swingarm grinder (model 451C).

Thanks,
Devon

Al_Smith · « **Reply #43 on:** May 30, 2009, 08:16:22 am »

I use a Dremel type on rocked chains but usually hand file .

You can run a chain until the top plate is worn smaller than the kerf .They slow down though once you get to the last rivet .At that point ,resharpen,hang them on a nail for stump cuts,fence rows etc then toss them if you rock them . If not you end up like me with a bucket full of worn out chains you have no idea what to do with .

I suppose a person could cut the top plates and use them for milling if so desired at that point . Chainsaw milling though in my case is my least desirable use of a chainsaw .

ENTS · « **Reply #44 on:** June 02, 2009, 09:06:19 pm »

Devon, thanks for the info. Sure wish I could sell my MAXX and put the money toward a Simington or Silvey. Maybe I'd go back to bench grinding.

Later,

ENTS · « **Reply #45 on:** June 03, 2009, 03:37:55 pm »

Here's a link comparing the elcheapo to the real thing (compliments of Baileys)

http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/grinder_comparison.pdf

Banjo picker · « **Reply #46 on:** June 04, 2009, 07:17:16 am »

Thanks for that link. That 1.4 mm thing helps explain why the teeth on one side don't last as long when I use the sharpening service in town. I thought he was just grinding them down so I would buy chain sooner.

Tim

RANGERDALEXP · « **Reply #47 on:** June 04, 2009, 02:38:37 pm »

I have the one from northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company and found that you can't beat it for the price, It is an exact copy of the Oregon 511a which i used in the past and it is almost made as well out of the box. You do need to to about a half hour of some fine tuning to it and after that it is a great machine. It works as well as the $350.00 Oregon model. After i started using it i did give my Harbor Freight one to a friend of mine. I am thinking of a second northern one so i can stop swapping stones out from the 3/16 to the 1/8 for different chains. look for them on sale for around $89.00 at northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company.

Tree tech · « **Reply #48 on:** June 04, 2009, 03:05:49 pm »

Hi there, i bought an alaskan mill, in the uk, none of the angles are true,depth imposible to set! Hand sharpen for best finish!

Jeff · « **Reply #49 on:** June 04, 2009, 03:17:15 pm »

northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company is not a company that I consider as an option for anything.

Many of our members, knowing what they have done to one of our sponsors, boycotts the company and tells our friends that they should do the same.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #50 on:** June 04, 2009, 04:33:39 pm »

You want quality, try a Stihl USG sometime. The word solid is a understatement.

You can find them used for cheaper to same price you are paying for those others in the $200 $300 price range.

You will have to scroll down near the bottom of page to see the pic.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_filing.html#usg

RANGERDALEXP · « **Reply #51 on:** June 04, 2009, 05:52:49 pm »

Quote from: Jeff on June 04, 2009, 03:17:15 pm

northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company is not a company that I consider as an option for anything. Many of our members, knowing what they have done to one of our sponsors, boycotts the company and tells our friends that they should do the same.

Being somewhat new here i am not sure what you are talking about on this. I was also given a PM and was told that this site has a severe issue with NT and i am not sure what it is and would get a very cool reception on that post, I have had good service with northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company and only wanted to post an unbiased opinion since i have used both of them to compare from side by side. anyway I had no intention to start a problem here and still have no idea why there is a problem, anyway i still stand behind that sharpener and always will unless something changes. It is a good sharpener for the money. Anyway i have seen and used the sthil USG and it is a great tool but i think it is way over priced and i have had some issues with sthil in the past and changed my product line to Husqvarna and Dolmar/makita instead for all my saws. Sorry for posting against the grain here on this......

shinnlinger · « **Reply #52 on:** July 05, 2009, 09:42:30 am »

I am a hand filer, but recently I have been sticking the file in a cordless drill and doing it. Thought I might use a clamp on file guide I have with the drill and see what happens... Am I doing something wrong???

beenthere · « **Reply #53 on:** July 05, 2009, 02:10:03 pm »

Whatever works for you.

I'd expect you will remove more of the tooth than needed to get it sharp. And I'd be concerned that this method wouldn't get it as sharp, and that I'd jigger up the tooth edge too easily. But will let you report your findings to us.

Do you make a holding 'jig' at the end of the file to hold it steady?

Rocky_J · « **Reply #54 on:** July 05, 2009, 02:20:08 pm »

I think it would render the file useless in short order. Files are cutting tools, and like most cutting tools are designed to cut in a specific direction. Chainsaw files are designed to cut when pushed in a forward motion. Spinning the file will rub the cutting edges sideways and dull the file very quickly. I suspect the file would be garbage before you finished the first chain.

chucker · « **Reply #55 on:** July 05, 2009, 04:07:45 pm »

as each row of cutters on a file are twisted away from the cutting edge to keep the file clean probably not a good deal? even at a slow speed with a drill the next row of cutters will burr and dull the next row ahead. thinking this would also set the cutters on the chain to be more surrated then chisle sharpened...

nmurph · « **Reply #56 on:** July 06, 2009, 09:59:48 am »

a bigger issue is the quickly changing diameter of the stone.

rebocardo · « **Reply #57 on:** July 06, 2009, 01:43:23 pm »

> the difference between the 30 dollar and the 300 + dollar units

Cheapness of the materials and repeatability of the same angle. After the cheap plastic starts to wear they are no longer accurate, if they were to begin with out of the box.

I have compared my cheap Speedmaster ($150 from Bailey's) and in no way does the <$50 units from Harbor Freight and northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company compare to that. If I had a $99 refurb. Poulan and was looking for a cheap grinder, yea, they might be worth the money.

If I had a chainsaw mill, where getting the angles right is important especially since the cheaper ones only adjust the top plate angle, I would get the more expensive grinder.

Usually when something is 2x-3x cheaper then the market leaders, it does not matter if you are talking grinders, saw chain, cars, trucks, food, etc. there is a reason. You just have to decide if you can live with the reason

I decided the <$50 were so cheap, it really wasn't worth purchasing to keep in my trailer tool box for on site sharpening.

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Author Topic: elect. chainsaw sharpeners (Read 5226 times)