Programming WM Accuset 2 - pattern mode

[Bibbyman]

Here is a step by step instruction on how to program the “pattern” mode on the Accuset 2.   

We will program pattern #1.   When we start,  it is programmed to 1-1/4” all the way to the deck.  When we’re done,  we will have it programmed to saw 1-1/8” boards down to 6-1/8”.  (We are sawing grade lumber off the sides of a log to make a beam 6-1/8” thick.)

Power up the Accuset in accessory mode. (It can be done while engine is running too but why waste fuel?)





Start by pressing the "Pattern" button.

 



We will be programming the pattern #1 - Note it's now set to 1-1/4" all the way to the bed.

 



Press the "Pattern" button again and you will see that the top number in the display reverses color - that is, turns to a black background.  That means this setting is ready to be changed.

 



I then use the up/down arrows to change the setting.  In this case,  I'm changing it from 1-1/4" to 1-1/8".

 



By pressing the "Pattern" button again, all six setting will change to be the same as the one above.  In this case,  they changed from 1-1/4" to 1-1/8".

 



Push the "Pattern" button until the bottom setting is "reversed immaged" and ready to modify.  Then use the up/down arrows to adjust the setting to, in this case, 6-1/8".

 



Now we have to "save" the pattern.  Press the manual button.

 



Press the up arrow to get the configuration menu.

 



Press "Save" twice and you've got Patter # 1 programmed.

 



Now when you poke the "Pattern" mode button, the #1 program will make 1-1/8" drops (plus kerf) down to 6-1/8". 

Now you have 15 other pattern mode program memory positions you can program.  It’s done the same way except you have to go to one of those numbers once you first press the “pattern” button.    We often saw 4/4 grade off of 7x9 ties and have two patterns programmed – one for 1-1/8” down to 7 and another 1-1/8” down to 9.

[sgschwend]

Anybody ever heard of or have put an Accuset on a different brand mill?

I would be interested in seeing a schematic.  I  assume their is a device that measures the position of the saw.

[backwoods sawyer]

A series of pictures is worth a thousand words. Thanks Bibbyman.

It uses a transducer rod to track the head position, with a little of patients and some good electrical skills, sure it is do able. You could also use a tempo cylinder, or an indexing screw drive to track the height. Then just interface the computer set works with it.

[moosehunter]

Thanks Bibby, I was trying to get my program memorized yesterday and was not succesfull. Your pics will help! ( I didn't have any problems with the original accuset)

mh

[woodmills1]

thanks  looks like the screen but slight differences for the original accuset, like not shaded for setting has  < instead.


Am I correct from my reading that on pattern mode the original accuset does not include kerf?

[MartyParsons]

Thanks Bibbyman, Good job!

[Hi-Country Orange]

what do you suppose a guy should do with an old accuset
that was functioning fine before i updated ??

[Bibbyman]

thanks  looks like the screen but slight differences for the original accuset, like not shaded for setting has  < instead.


Am I correct from my reading that on pattern mode the original accuset does not include kerf?

Old Accuset and Accuset 2 always included kerf.  If it's not, then the kerf setting is at 0.00.

I think the Simple Setworks didn't include kerf.  Maybe that's what you're thinking?

[Bibbyman]

what do you suppose a guy should do with an old accuset
that was functioning fine before i updated ??

I just gave it back to the local Wood-Mizer service center.  I figure maybe some parts can be handed down to someone that needs to repair and old Accuset.  I had no use for them as I'll never go back.

[woodmills1]

ok I just reread the section  "....remember to include the kerf....if you want 1" set the increment to 1 1/8"....."   

but later at the end of the paragraph   "The accuset can be programmed with an automatic kerf setting if desired"


If all goes well I should have enough leftover time today to finish the service on the mill. Then, set the accuset to 12" and try a pattern program and cut.

[MartyParsons]

Old Accusets should be discarded. I have seen them on E-bay.  There will be no parts available for Accuset 1. The new Simple Setworks does not have a kerf setting. You add the kerf to the drop desired. The old Set works did have kerf setting and you can change them if needed.
M

[Bibbyman]

Thanks Marty for clearing all that up.

If you want to set the kerf...

I think they suggest setting the kerf at twice the blade thickness – thus, .045 blade would set at .090 and .055 would be .110.   To be exact, you’d have to figure in the blade thickness and blade set.  We set ours at .100 and figured that was close enough.

Once the kerf is set and saved, you only need to program in the thickness of board you want - vs. the board thickness + kerf.

The problem with thinking you can just buy an old Accuset 1 and install it is that you won’t get nearly all the components you need as some are still used when the Accuset 2 is installed.  What you’ll have is an incomplete pile of parts, no sorce for replacement parts, etc.

Also,  there is not just one Accuset configuration.  There are many variables by date and model of mill – even engine options, etc.  So even if you took all the parts off my mill and put it on your mill, it probably would not work without some reconfiguration. 

You’d be far and away better off just getting the Accuset 2 upgrade kit.  That way you have factory support and warrantee.

The very best way to get an Accuset 2 is to buy a new mill! 

[sgschwend]

I found on the Wood-Mizer site a price for a used encoder tube it was approximately $500.  I didn't see an Accuset 2 replacement kit.  Is there such a thing?

[Bibbyman]

Sparks posted this in the Wood-Mizer section last February.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,36205.0.html

I didn't see it listed on the WM web site.  I'll keep looking.  Maybe Sparks or Marty can come on and let us know.

[ronwood]

Marty,

I spoke with tech support at Indy and they indicated that the new simple setworks compensates for the blade kerf.

Have you operated a mill with new simple set works?
Ron

[sparks]

Hi country.....The old Accuset is not servicable and should be smashed and throne away.   

[sparks]

ronwood......Simple Set does not compensate for kerf. You have to add the kerf the the thickmess you program in. If you want a 1" board and you run a .045 blade with .025 set you want to program in about 1-1/8".   Thanks

If your mill has the old Setworks you can upgrade it to Accuset 2 for about $2100.00 for a remote mill and about $1799.00 for a non-remote.

[ronwood]

Sparks,

Thanks for the clarification.

Ron

[Bibbyman]

Everyone using their Accuset 2 Pattern mode? 

Here is a trick I’ve stumbled onto after installing the upgrade to Accuset 2.   That is,  I most often just program and use Pattern #1.  It’s the default pattern when you poke the pattern mode button so it’s the fastest to get to – no additional poking required.   

When we saw 7x9s,  I program 1-1/8” down to 7" on Pattern #1 and 1-1/8” down to 9” on Pattern #2. 

When we saw something else – say 6x8 beams,  I reprogram Pattern #1 and #2.   Sure there are 16 sets that can be programmed and saved but having to cycle through to get to them takes time and I sometimes make a mistake.  It’s so quick and easy to program I just find it works better to reprogram #1 and #2 when required.

We have a few patterns set and saved to like 3” all the way down and 4” all the way down.  We saw some blocking out of junk cants so when we get one on the mill, we’ll often saw them down to 3x4s and get them off the mill.  Some are good enough to market and some we cut up for our own use.  The rest is racked up until winter when it’s made into firewood. 

[woodmills1]

my accuset seems to work very well why would I have to smash it?

[DR_Buck]

I don't use my Accuset 2 much for patterns.  But, I do use it all the time.  It's my main sawing mode.   I programmed all 16 of the presets for the common sizes I normally saw.  

Button 1 is  - 1" - 1 1/16" - 1 1/8" - 1 1/4"
Button 2 is  - 1 1/2" - 1 3/4" - 2" - 2 1/2"
Button 3 is  - 1 5/8" - 3 5/8" - 5 5/8" - 7 5/8"   ---- These are for sawing "store bought" size 2 by's
Button 4 is  - 3" - 4" -  6" -  8"

This has really reduced my sawing times and gets me home faster.  

[Bibbyman]

DR,  how would you saw say 2x6s using the pattern mode?

Here is how we do it.  (Given a log say 12" dia.)

We have one Pattern programmed to 1-5/8" (what we almost always saw our 2x lumber to unless otherwise told something specific) all the way down to bed.

Then we program Pattern #5 to 1-5/8" down to 6" (we always saw to full width unless otherwise told).

We level the log on the mill and make a 6" opening face.  Turn 90,  level the log, make another 6" face.  Turn 90.  Got to Pattern #1 and drop the blade to test where it's going to make a cut.  If not deep enough to make a 6" face, we'll try the next pattern.  Make the cut.  Turn the the last face and go to the other pattern and take that slab off.  Then we go to the Pattern #5 and take boards off each side until the cant is 6" thick.  We then turn the cant up and saw all the way to the bad on Pattern #1. 

Here is a link to something I put in the Knowledge base some time about about using the Accuset.  It has some pictures.

http://www.forestryforum.com/tips/tips.cgi?display:1048179042-18739.txt

[backwoods sawyer]

I cut 2x4 and 2x6 the same way as you described Bibbyman, but for larger logs that give multiple stacks, I have first click under #3 set up with all 1 5/8 the second click is all 1 5/8 with a six on the bottom, the third click has two 6” on the bottom and the forth click is all 6”. The four that are under #2 are set up the same way only with 3 5/8” I use the four under #1  for 7/8”, 1”, 1 ¼” The last one is all 7/8 with 1” on the bottom this is handy for edging so that you can drop to the inch 10-9-8-7- ect. The four under #4 I use for larger stock and when I need to cut something different I will program one of the ones under #4 that is close to what I need so it takes less time to program. I also have the auto up down programmed with the common sizes, another time saver. I find the more you use the accuset the more time you save.

[DR_Buck]

DR,  how would you saw say 2x6s using the pattern mode?

For a "store bought" 2x6 I open the first face to be at least 6" using manual down.  Flip the cant 90° and do the same.  Flip 90° again and use button 3 at either 1 5/8" or 5 5/8" depending on log diameter and what looks like the most yield.   I normally try to get the 5 5/8" size first.   Then I flip the cant so the 5 5/8" side is horizontal with the last edge up.   Sometimes two of them side by side.  Then I saw thru.   Depending on wood stress or tension I may flip the cant(s) 180° every few boards.   For a real 2x6 I do the same just using the other button presets.

[Bibbyman]

Kind of beside the Accuset point of the topic - but we almost always saw dimension lumber like your diagram (and the ones I show on the Knowledge base) – that is with the cant centered.  We try to keep back smaller logs just so this is easier to do.  I feel it always produces better lumber. 

I have seen one sawyer that, even with small logs, will try to get doubles.  He will square out the log and then saw through and through making wide boards and then stand them up on the mill and split them down the middle.  I just cringe.  Most of it looks like it should end up in the slab pile.   Half of it looks like rocker runners with pith on one edge and sap/bark on the other.

Sometimes we have to make – say 2x4s – out of a big log.  We’ll still center one cant over the heart and not split it.   Many of the outer 2x4s will have some bow but not as much as they would have had coming from splitting a smaller log down the middle.

Our Auto down/up button #1 is set to 1/2".  The next punch of that button – set #5 is at 1”,  one more poke – set #9 is at 3/4" and set # 13 is at 1/4”.   Why 1/2",1”,3/4”, and then 1/4"?  That’s because we use the 1/2" drop most often, then the 1” and so on.

We use these when we make a too shallow face cut and need to make another cut.  Often Mary is offbearing and is closer to the “face”.  She’ll give me a signal in “fingers” of how many quarters to take off.  Sometimes we are sawing long butt cut logs and can get a 1x6 by 8’ from the flare. 

[willowrunlmbr]

Woodsmills1

I would not reccomend smashin your accuset 1.  I have a '03 lt40 super with the accuset 2 on it and have been a little disappointed.  Now I am not bashin woodmizer at all, I know they have put a tremendous effort into the Accuset 2 and Marty Parsons and Jeremy from NY have proved to be very helpful in trying to troubleshoot some problems we have been having. I also know that some people have had no trouble at all, we just werent that lucky.  That said the only problem we had with the old accuset was that it occasionally lost its place in pattern mode.  This new accuset is faster but it is supposedly extremely sensitive to voltage spikes and we have been having some problems that have cost me a lot of money in downtime and lost/cancelled jobs.  I saved my old accuset and if we cant figure out how to solve these error messages (I have replaced just about everthing at least once, and torqued nuts beyond tight) very shortly, I am gonna put the accuset one back on, because even though it occasionally lost its place and was slower, it worked.  So even though you may not need it it never hurts to have a spare.

[backwoods sawyer]

Woodsmills1

I would not reccomend smashin your accuset 1.  I have a '03 lt40 super with the accuset 2 on it and have been a little disappointed.  Now I am not bashin woodmizer at all, I know they have put a tremendous effort into the Accuset 2 and Marty Parsons and Jeremy from NY have proved to be very helpful in trying to troubleshoot some problems we have been having. I also know that some people have had no trouble at all, we just werent that lucky.  That said the only problem we had with the old accuset was that it occasionally lost its place in pattern mode.  This new accuset is faster but it is supposedly extremely sensitive to voltage spikes and we have been having some problems that have cost me a lot of money in downtime and lost/cancelled jobs.  I saved my old accuset and if we cant figure out how to solve these error messages (I have replaced just about everthing at least once, and torqued nuts beyond tight) very shortly, I am gonna put the accuset one back on, because even though it occasionally lost its place and was slower, it worked.  So even though you may not need it it never hurts to have a spare.

I can understand your frustration.
When I bought my mill it was on its fourth Accuset, and in the first two years, I went thru three more along with multiples of each of the components that connect to it.
In the process I brought in an electrical engineer and he redesigned a couple of the components and solved the over heating problems I was having with the mosfet module. Woodmizer Portland got a little hot under the collar over that but it cost me less then what I was paying for replacement parts. However, since the new Accuset 2 came along I have not had any problems. It has been like having a new mill.
I do not know if you are running the same alternator that I have on my mill, but while I was having all of the problems, I found that the wire from the alternator to the battery was maxed out with the distance it has to go. Therefore, I ran a second wire of equal size along side it to lighten the load and that took care of some of the voltage spikes that I had been having. I keep all of my electrical boxes tightly sealed and spotless in side, dust can be a real problem as well.
I hope you are able to solve your problems with the Accuset 2 soon.

[willowrunlmbr]

backwoods sawyer,

thanks for the info, I have the original alternater on the mill, it has been tested by a local shop to be ok, but I believe I might try your reccomendation and see if it might help our situation. any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks

[woodmills1]

my accuset expeience so far has been just completly amazing, I am up to 245 bd ft per hr working alone using the mill and the edger separatley.  I can run fast enough to run them both at the same time.  When the 70 is used to cut a cant leaving the boards in place it is a thing of beauty.  It literaly flies through the cant, up, back and then down and forward and ready as I slow the speed to enter.  No more cigaretts while I cut cants for me.

It did get confused once.  It was raining and I was trying to program a pattern and it put the little < sign on all of the numbers.  I turned it of waited and then back on it was fine.

[Bibbyman]

Advanced trick with Accuset 2…

Maybe you’ve already figured this out but just in case you haven’t..

I’ve found that I can turn the ignition switch from “Run” to “Accessory” real fast and the Accuset 2 will stay booted up and still in the mode it was in.   This may not be off much importance to you guys with engines but for us guys with electric motors tend to turn our mills off and back on a lot, it can save time.

The way this helps is;  Say you’re sawing a beam and have to make some measurements to make sure the heart is centered, etc.  You saw through and then you want to turn off the engine/motor while you’re turning and making your measurements.   You can quickly turn the ignition switch from “Run” to “Accessory” and the Accuset is still active.  Pull the slab.  Make your turn.  Make your measurements, level your log and anything else you need to do.  Then adjust the head to your next cut.  Fire up the mill and start cutting.  About 6’ down the cut, and the Accuset will be booted up and ready to go but you’re already sawing.  You didn’t have to wait for the Accuset to boot up and then move the head to the next cut, etc.

Another way I used this same trick is when I’ve made my last cut.  I’ll set the Accuset to “Go to 12”.  As soon as the blade clears the cant, I’ll bump the Up switch and I’ll disengage the motor with the AutoClutch.  When the AutoClutch has completed its cycle, I’ll turn the ignition switch from “Run” to “Accessory”.   The head will continue to rise to the “Go to 12” mark as I bring it back home. 

[backwoods sawyer]

When I fire up the mill it usually stays running until lunchtime or later. But along the same lines as what you are doing. When I have just a few of an odd size to cut, I will program in the changes and not save them. When I am finished milling them, I turn the switch off and back on and the accuset goes back to the settings that were there before the changes.

[Magic Smoke]

willowrunlmbr,
Are you still having issues? If so, what kind of error messages are you seeing?

[lakeview lumber]

 we installed simple set set works this winter i  like it sure beats trying to read the scale  and my lumber is turning out nice and even
but after some weeks now it sometimes just fades away
and i can not move the saw  up or down
 the motor still starts and it is not a short
i open the panel and checked some wires  and then it works again
 has anybody else run into that
lakeview

[DR_Buck]

Sounds like you might have a loose connection in there.   I'd disconnect the battery and tighten all the connections in the box.

[Bibbyman]

Welcome to the Forum!   

[bugdust]

Great info Bibbyman! When Marty installed my Accuset 2 he explained in detail the set ups, but for me a picture is worth a thousand words. Until now I've never really understood this setting and greatly appreciate your input. Just completed sawing out Hemlock material for my church's 24'X40' picnic shelter. Now that this project is completed I'm looking at 70-2"X8"X12' for a customer. After the long WV winter it sure is good to be making dust again.

[Magicman]

Welcome to The Forestry Forum lakeview lumber......

[Magic Smoke]

Have you guys discovered this neat hidden feature with Accuset 2; while in the manual mode, if you hit the "Down Arrow", the head will move to the nearest whole number...sounds trivial, but kinda nice if you want to get to a whole number without bumping the head back-and-forth trying to get it right on the number.

[Bibbyman]

Have you guys discovered this neat hidden feature with Accuset 2; while in the manual mode, if you hit the "Down Arrow", the head will move to the nearest whole number...sounds trivial, but kinda nice if you want to get to a whole number without bumping the head back-and-forth trying to get it right on the number.

I use it real often.  Comes in handy when we're sawing some old cants like 7x9 RR ties down to 2x6s.  When you don't want to go and make a program to saw out a few. 

What would be nice .... if pushing the DOWN arrow would make it drop to the lower whole number - no matter if it was above the half mark.  And then program the UP arrow to go UP to the next whole number. 

[Bibbyman]

Note to self....  If you're going to make another video where you're hands are up close all the time, clean your fingernails!



I made a video of a bit of the features of the Wood-Mizer Accuset 2.  How it works and a bit of how to program and use it. 

It's L O N G....  But it's just the tail of the elephant.