Author Topic: Saw starting (Read 1602 times)

bandmiller2 · « **on:** April 16, 2009, 08:13:22 am »

Why is it some saws start right up wile anouther simular saw starts hard,requires many more pulls.They boath run and cut the same??Frank C.

joe_indi · « **Reply #1 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:18:37 am »

Partially blocked pickup body
Leaner L screw setting
Spark plug that needs to be cleaned.

ladylake · « **Reply #2 on:** April 16, 2009, 10:04:57 am »

As Joe mentioned try opening the low up a tad on the hard to start ones. Steve

Al_Smith · « **Reply #3 on:** April 16, 2009, 04:30:28 pm »

Nobody is willing to admit it but some saws just have an attitude problem .

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #4 on:** April 16, 2009, 07:07:23 pm »

You've got a couple of those, dontcha.

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #5 on:** April 16, 2009, 07:32:15 pm »

Whenever I modded the muffler on the 372 it went from a 2 puller to a 4 puller no matter how much i play with the L setting.

Cuts like a banshee though so I don't complain.

Rocky_J · « **Reply #6 on:** April 16, 2009, 07:51:10 pm »

I wish my 372s would start with 4 pulls! Although they aren't quite stock, so I'm not complaining too loudly. About 8-9 pulls on my hottest 372 for a cold start.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #7 on:** April 16, 2009, 07:59:44 pm »

On really, really hot days my 66 will start one pull, cold, no choke.

Hilltop366 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:13:10 pm »

Sometimes the carb needle leaks down (or a week fuel pump) so it takes a few pulls to get fuel to the right places to get things going.

The Dolmar 120 had a primer bulb to get it ready for cold start and often took 1 pull somestimes 2. I always found Dolmars to be some of the best tuned saws out of the box.

In the mid 80's I worked at a Stihl dealer, when we would get a new saw ready we would pressure test the carb I think we would replace about 1/3 of the carbs because the needle would not hold pressure.

And some saws I think were made by the devil himself !

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #9 on:** April 16, 2009, 08:49:40 pm »

Quote from: Hilltop366 on April 16, 2009, 08:13:10 pm

And some saws I think were made by the devil himself !

Those are called "Made in R.O.C."

Al_Smith · « **Reply #10 on:** April 16, 2009, 09:06:46 pm »

Quote from: Dave Shepard on April 16, 2009, 07:07:23 pm

You've got a couple of those, dontcha.

I think everyone does from time to time if they admit it .

I've got some that can sit for months and start on 4 and some if idle for two days need a prime . Just the nature of the beast I suppose .

Dave Hanny · « **Reply #11 on:** April 28, 2009, 08:41:00 am »

Question for you pros out there:

At work we have three gas concrete saws (as opposed to all the hydraulic concrete saws). I was recently taught to do short pulls (fast) as opposed to pulling the starter-rope out all the way, or nearly all the way.

I was never taught this for starting chainsaws, and all the chainsaws I've used have never seemed to have a problem by doing full, or nearly full, pulls to get 'em started.

Sure enough, right before I was 'taught' how to pull the concrete saw... the rope pulled part of the way out and didn't go back in... so we had to bring it back to our mechanic and have him fix it.

So are you guys all pulling short-pulls on cold saws?

GASoline71 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 28, 2009, 10:22:12 am »

Quote from: Al_Smith on April 16, 2009, 04:30:28 pm

Nobody is willing to admit it but some saws just have an attitude problem .

Kinda like that 2100XP right Al...

Also clogged air filters, low compression... etc., etc.

Also boils down to the operators skill level too...

Gary

Rocky_J · « **Reply #13 on:** April 28, 2009, 06:36:38 pm »

Dave,
The instruction you received on 'short pulls' was due to a history of prior users breaking too many starter ropes. Many people want to pull the starter rope out as far as they can when starting a piece of equipment. The sudden stop when you reach the end of the rope causes much stress and wear. After a year or two of starting a piece of equipment in this manner, things start to break. Ropes break every couple months, starter pulleys and mechanisms start breaking after that.

It's a blanket rule written by your boss designed to keep users from breaking equipment because they don't understand the consequences of their actions.

ladylake · « **Reply #14 on:** April 29, 2009, 04:57:10 am »

I must do short pulls, the only one that I reach the end of the rope on has a real short rope. Steve

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 29, 2009, 05:29:09 am »

Rocky's right on the short pull thing I'am a fire dept mechanic and have alot of problems with cords.Too long arms and too much testostrone[sp],I buy the rope by the spool.Been trying to train them for 30 something years I've all but given up.Frank C.

thecfarm · « **Reply #16 on:** April 29, 2009, 06:48:58 am »

I don't do short pulls.But I do not try to pull the rope out of the saw to show how strong I am either.Another way to fix the problem,is to take the saw to a shop and have the guy that broke it pay for it.They would learn quick how far to pull the rope out.Have them take it to the shop on their time too and go get it.But I realize that would not work,because you may need it on someones house.
I do have some trouble with the rope/starter every 4-5 years with anything with a rope on it.

Dave Hanny · « **Reply #17 on:** April 29, 2009, 07:06:46 am »

Huh, I don't know what happened to my most recent reply, but coincidentally enough I just got done writing that I didn't do a strong long pull that last time on the saw. But it was probably a full-pull and, well, the mechanism got screwed up - the rope didn't break, but apparently we have troubles with it spooling back in. This time the last foot, or a little less, didn't spool back in, and I couldn't pull it out again $:-\$

When work starts up again I will ask our mechanic about what he had to do to get it working again (hopefully NOT replace parts). It was a Husqvarna saw.

Hilltop366 · « **Reply #18 on:** April 29, 2009, 10:54:35 am »

Sometimes the pulley won't wind the rope fast enough an it balls up around the parts that stick out past the pulley,then it is stuck.

Usually caused by a damaged or weak spring or starter cover/spring holder gummed up and needs to be cleaned out.

If the rope is retracting a little slow and the pull handle is let go or slips out of your hand it will also get balled up.

I think that is why it can work fine for someone an be a pain for someone else.

Dave Hanny · « **Reply #19 on:** April 29, 2009, 11:02:48 am »

Thanks, Hilltop, that probably explains it - the amount of concrete dust made when cutting with the gas saws is incredible since we do not hook water-lines up to the gas saws. I bet there's a ton of concrete-dust in it.

On the hydraulic concrete saws we always cut with a water-feed (so we get slurry everywhere, but not the dust).

Polly · « **Reply #20 on:** April 29, 2009, 09:06:50 pm »

a while back some forum member told me to fill fuel tank about one half full shake saw wait about 20 sec and pull rope the cold saw started on the first pull

News:

Author Topic: Saw starting (Read 1602 times)