Broken bleeder/injection pump

[sprucebunny]

No, it wasn't so bad at all  I am seldom that lucky so all the advance worrying and telling people might have changed my luck on this one 

Thanks everyone !!!!

[beenthere]

Looks like a stud with a lock-nut to hold it at some adjusted position.
I'm curious as to how it works as a bleeder? Does fuel under pressure leak around the washer when the lock nut is backed off?

It appears that the stud could easily be twisted off.

[isawlogs]

 Thats good , about time you had something go the easy way . 

 I guess we aint gonne have that video of you stomping your feet and and jumping in place over your hat now are we . 

[sprucebunny]

Sorry  no hat stomping or feet stamping that bunnies are known for    < that will have to do 

Beenthere, it's like a flare fitting for gas. This is what it would look like if it weren't broken.
 



I agree that it's a poor design. The least they could do would be to have a longer nut and the seat for the screw up in the nut more so the wall thickness was greater.

[stonebroke]

I think if you hold the base with a wrench while you are loosening the bleeder screw you will not have that problem again.

[sprucebunny]

Stonebroke, I've been wondering about that. Loosening the screw, one might need to hold the base with a wrench, but the base of it is already tight when you go to tighten the bleed screw so why would holding it with the wrench make any difference
The screw is pushing against the flare part in either case and trying to push the 2 sections of the base apart no matter if you hold on to it or don't ?

[beenthere]

Hold the screw (small center stud) with a wrench, while loosening the lock nut (larger nut). That will relieve the "lock" and let the small stud turn. The lock nut binds it all together real tight when putting it back together. At least as it appears to me. 

Might find that with the lock nut loose, that the center stud will turn easily with ones fingers..for bleeding and shutting the flow off.

 

[stonebroke]

When you loosen the bleeder screw hold the base in case the bleeder is frozen. That way you will not break the whole thing off. Once it is loosen to tighten it be real carefull. if it is still leaking it is probably a piece of dirt in the seat or the seat is damaged. It does not take a whole lot to tighten bleeder screws. ounce lbs of torque. More pressure does not make a better seal.

[beenthere]

.................

SB
Besides bleeding, is it possible these two "bleeder" screws you are pointing out are the low and high idle adjustment screws?   (edit ** I now know I am wrong on that, after more casual thought and finding a Lucas schematic.      )

Do you have a schematic or parts list for the pump?  Trying to recall from a long time ago. 
Seems I remember making adjustments and finding out that tightening the lock nuts had some slight effect (frustrating, to say the least) on the desired results, having to do with reducing smoke under load at low rpm. 

[sprucebunny]

They are just bleeders. The long bolt to the left of the throttle linkage is the low idle adjustment.

Those are not lock nuts . They are seats. They do not turn to bleed it. Only the screw/bolt with the tapered inner end turns. It is either seated or bleeding.




This is the inside of it. Seat is on the left and the bleed screw/bolt is still in the base.
The bleed screw/bolt has a flat side that lets fuel out.