Author Topic: Broken bleeder/injection pump (Read 1193 times)

sprucebunny · « **on:** March 08, 2009, 12:58:31 pm »

Just when you think that you are gaining on the broken stuff .....

My diesel backhoe has had an off and on air-in-the-fuel problem. Finally got it running yesterday and notice that the bleed screw on the injection pump is leaking so I tried to tighten it a little and... yup... you guessed it... the stupid thing snapped off

So now I have a hole that's just a hair bigger than 1/16" surrounded by the remains of the bleed screw base.
I can't find an "easy-out" that small and it would probably snap off anyway. Drilling would pretty surely put fragments into the pump. And from there into the injectors .

Should I just shell out the $1200 for a new pump now or has someone got a plan where I get to do some more cussing and stamping my feet

Burlkraft · « **Reply #1 on:** March 08, 2009, 01:12:34 pm »

Quote from: sprucebunny on March 08, 2009, 12:58:31 pm

or has someone got a plan where I get to do some more cussing and stamping my feet

Make sure you get some video of that

I don't think I would try drillin' it unless it was on the bench. That's iffy at best.

I hope the pump has lots of hours on it and it needed a re freshening anyway

Unless it would happen to come right out...it ain't lookin' good.

Put some Rust Reaper on it

Warbird · « **Reply #2 on:** March 08, 2009, 01:16:22 pm »

Quote from: Burlkraft on March 08, 2009, 01:12:34 pm

I don't think I would try drillin' it unless it was on the bench.

Agreed. And if you do try drilling it, clamp 'er down good on a drill press and go slow with it.

Old Iron nut · « **Reply #3 on:** March 08, 2009, 01:41:08 pm »

Spruce bunny, if you are a good welder and have a mig unit, try welding a flat washer around the broken off screw. You may have to get a larger washer or make one so that you can weld a nut on the washer after the washer is welded on the screw. Let cool a bit and then you should be able to turn the screw out. If you are not good at welding something that small take it to someone that is. I've removed many bolts both small and large that way. By the way, is that a CAV pump? Cheers, Old Iron nut.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #4 on:** March 08, 2009, 01:58:04 pm »

Thanks for making me laugh, Steve

Not sure I want to weld on something full of diesel and it's a bit too small.

I'm thinking of tapping it with a vacume of some kind going and then flushing the pump and just putting a bolt in it.

The hole is slightly above center.

The machine is an '87 and has 5500 hours. Motor was the best part

Still hoping for a miracle idea as removing the pump doesn't sound like much fun.

Yes, it says "Lucas CAV" What does that mean ?

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #5 on:** March 08, 2009, 02:47:45 pm »

It probably means you've got a Perkins engine, and a Ford backhoe.

You might be able to use a left-handed drill bit. I've had surprisingly good luck using that method to get bolts out. I see the hole is horizontal, you may not get any filings in there, and it's a bleeder, so you be able to flush them out after drilling. Welding a nut on there is also a good approach.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #6 on:** March 08, 2009, 03:02:47 pm »

Thanks, Dave. It's a Case with a Cummins engine 4-390.
Maybe I'll try the left handed bits. But you guys must have guessed by now that Ole Murphy watches me pretty closely

Faron · « **Reply #7 on:** March 08, 2009, 03:04:48 pm »

How about having someone pump the primer pump while you drill with the left hand bit?

Brian_Rhoad · « **Reply #8 on:** March 08, 2009, 03:07:09 pm »

If you don't drill through the bottom of the bleeder you shouldn't get shavings in the pump. A 1/8" hole may be big enough for an easy-out. I have one that small so I know they are available. Use a shop vac to clean out the hole once the bleeder is out.
I don't know if a bolt work. Bleeders usualy seal at the bottom like a flare plug.

rebocardo · « **Reply #9 on:** March 08, 2009, 03:12:46 pm »

I would loosen the rust and such by trying to turn it with an impact chisel and rust lube. Then if that did not help, I would get a brass drift and pound it into the hole and try turning the drift with vise grips.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2009, 03:18:25 pm »

Faron, that's what I was thinking. Also thinking of putting a magnet on the bit

Here's another pic. The part that broke off is sitting on the throttle end just above it's former home. It looks just like the one that is below it.

Rebocardo, it's the injection pump...no rust. I have considered trying to drive the pointy end of a small file in there

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #11 on:** March 08, 2009, 03:31:32 pm »

Wow, I was way off.

Corley5 · « **Reply #12 on:** March 08, 2009, 05:14:35 pm »

I'd try the left hand drill bit first

sprucebunny · « **Reply #13 on:** March 08, 2009, 05:39:52 pm »

I went out there and inspected very closely, there is almost a sixteenth of the thing left sticking out of the hole.

I'm going to try to grind a slot in it with a Dremel. The dust will be finer than drilling and there is less chance of damaging the threads. If that doesn't work, I'll buy the left hand drill bits. ( If it really doesn't work, I may be buying more than that !!!! )

Thanks to everyone for ideas and opinions

I'll let you know what happens.

PS: Could someone PLease distract Murphy from ...say... 9am Eastern until 10 tomorrow morning

Thanks

Larry · « **Reply #14 on:** March 08, 2009, 05:46:56 pm »

Couple of ideas...first I would try jamming the tapered end of a file into the hole and try turning. If that don’t work plug the hole with grease and cut a slot for a screwdriver with a Dremel. If that don’t work modify the slot you cut with a Dremel so that you can tap on it with a modified cold chisel. I bet it won’t be that hard to back out. If that don’t work use what Paul Harvey (bless his soul) would use...JB weld.

We must be thinking on the same wavelength here...you beat me by a couple of minutes.

Tom · « **Reply #15 on:** March 08, 2009, 06:23:10 pm »

Before I spent $1200 dollars on a pump, I would seal the hole with something and do my bleeding from a connection outside of the pump.

isawlogs · « **Reply #16 on:** March 08, 2009, 08:33:14 pm »

Joan that back-hoe has way too many hours on it , before spending all that money and time , take it apart and haul it here in detached peices I can get you top dollar for scrap and it makes going through the border patrol a lot easier when youonly bring peices through .

à

gmmills · « **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2009, 08:58:32 pm »

It looks like there may be sealing washer still glued to the pump with paint. If so, take a knife or sharp flat screw driver and score around the outer edge of washer to break it loose. That should expose enough of the stud to grip it with a good pair of vice-grips. I think that style of bleeder screw is aluminum. Hope this helps.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #18 on:** March 09, 2009, 10:08:56 am »

I want to thank you all for keeping Murphy busy

Just to throw him off track, I found all the parts to Dremel it. The washer was loose and as gmmills said, once I took off the washer, there was enough to grab it and just turn it out

It's made of steel.
New part ($25 ! ) should be here the end of the week.

Corley5 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 09, 2009, 10:14:08 am »

That wasn't so bad then

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Author Topic: Broken bleeder/injection pump (Read 1193 times)