Author Topic: 2 Cycle Oil Husqvarna xp, Amsoil saber, OPTI-2 (Read 4367 times)

tbrickner · « **on:** February 25, 2009, 05:13:11 am »

I typically use Husqvarna 2 cycle XP oil for my chainsaws. Has anyone used the Amsoil saber professional at 100:1 or OPTI-2 2 cycle 100:1 ratio oil? I have a Dolmar 7900 saw 50:1 and a MAC 610 40:1 and would like to see if I can get away with using the Amsoil or OPTI-2 with 100:1 ratio for both saws. Has anyone had experience using these?

Rocky_J · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2009, 06:59:57 am »

I used Optimol many years ago when it was relatively new on the market. It wasn't bad but when I found out Echo two cycle oil was the same stuff I switched off to the Echo labeled stuff. I don't know if that is still true or not. I used mostly Echo oil (at 50-1) for the last 20 years until recently, switched to the Stihl synthetic (white bottle) a few years ago when I started getting my saws ported.

I'd avoid Amsoil simply because of the pyramid scheme distribution method, just like Amway. Anything that sounds too good to be true usually is. $:-\$

The Husky XP oil is good stuff also. No reason for you to switch really, I think the 100-1 angle is a bit scary. Many people end up mixing it heavy anyway.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 25, 2009, 07:28:01 am »

Amsoil is good stuff,but I could never bring myself to use it 100/1.Any of the major brands at 50/1with preferance to synthetic and your safe and happy.Currently using the new stihl synthetic "white bottle"its hard to tell any differance.Frank C.

Ed · « **Reply #3 on:** February 25, 2009, 08:58:14 am »

I've been using the Husky xp oil for a while now, before that Stihl. I only changed for convience, I drive past the Husky dealer almost every day.
Never had a want or desire to go the 100:1 route, I'll stick with what I know works.

Nothing against Amsoil, I do use it in my ATV's.

Ed

tbrickner · « **Reply #4 on:** February 25, 2009, 11:09:47 am »

How do people feel about the Baileys 2 cycle oil. Is it similar to husqvarna/stihl?

Rocky_J · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2009, 01:27:21 pm »

The shipping makes the Bailey's oil inconvenient due to the cost.

Also, those premix bottles are way more expensive than buying in a gallon jug. If you're capable of measuring easily and accurately (I use a neat little measuring bottle I bought at the boat store), then buying mix oil by the gallon is much less expensive than the individual bottles. Although if you have employees mixing your fuel then the premeasured bottles may be your safest bet.

cheyenne · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:52:38 pm »

To me 2 cycle oil is 2 cycle oil but I may be wrong. "BUT" I have always run 32 to 1 and never had a problem.....Cheyenne

tbrickner · « **Reply #7 on:** February 27, 2009, 01:44:01 am »

Cheyenne:

Don't you have any problems with 50:1 or 40:1 saws carboning up at that ratio?

Has anyone used the AMSOIL or OPTI-2 with the 100:1 ratio on a saw or cut it down to 66:1 or 50:1?

I wanted to try to use one type of 2 cycle for my 50:1 and 40:1 saw. Any recommendations on what would be useful for both since I currently carry two gas cans. One at 50:1 and the other at 40:1 with the husqvarna XP 2 cycle.

Tom

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:35:46 am »

Tom,get some of the name brand 2cyc. mix oil preferably synthetic or blend, mix 50/1 everything you have will think its ice cream.Saws are the same its the lube that has improved,older saws run better with the 50/1 mix.Amsoil 100/1 is safe but I'am not ready for it yet, used it at 50/1.Frank C.

Rocky_J · « **Reply #9 on:** February 27, 2009, 08:30:36 am »

Tom, you are wasting your time and money using two different mix ratios in two different saws. Dump both cans into one can and use it in both saws.

If you have a saw that originally called for 40-1 (or 32-1, or 24-1, or 16-1), that was based on the lubrication abilities of oil available at that time. The rings and bearings in your saw do not have a mix ratio requirement, they have a lubrication requirement. Any decent mix oil sold today has much more lubrication capabilities than the average two cycle oil available 35 years ago when your old saw manual was written. To insist on using today's two cycle oil at 1970s era mix ratios is silly.

caz · « **Reply #10 on:** February 27, 2009, 05:10:21 pm »

Have used amsoil 100:1 sabor as long as I have had saws, weed eaters etc.
never had any problems.

Wouldn't use anything else.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #11 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:36:00 pm »

Welcome to the Forum, tbrickner. You don't move trees, by any chance?

tbrickner · « **Reply #12 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:18:58 pm »

Rocky:

Thanks for the advice. I was wondering if the newer 2 cycle oil would work better or worse on the old MAC 610 but was a bit gun shy to change the ratio. I'll take your advice and probably stick with the husqvarna xp at 50:1 for both saws since it is readily available and has good reviews as well as the stihl oil. I was just wondering if the opti-2 may be a better lubrication for extending the life of the Dolmar and MAC saws at the 100:1 or reducing the ratio to 50:1 since it has claims to have a better lubricant?

Tom

tbrickner · « **Reply #13 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:21:09 pm »

Caz:

Thanks for the input on the amsoil. I am still debating on the opti-2/amsoil saber 100:1 ratio vers the husvarna 50:1. How many years have you been using the amsoil and what type of saw do you run?

Thanks
Tom

tbrickner · « **Reply #14 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:32:13 pm »

Dave:

Thanks for the welcome.

I don't move trees for a living but do a lot of wood cutting part time on weekends to sell to wood stove owners as well as heat my house. I do take down a number of trees but typically just on weekends. Not to the extent that a pro would do, maybe 6 trees a month on average. I just want to make sure my saws stay in good shape. I guess you could say with the amount of use they get reliability may be more of an issue with me than the pros since I don't use the saws day to day and want to make sure they are working on the weekends. I also want to make sure the gas stays fresh and typically use 2 gallons a month with PRI-G as the gas stabilizer. I know that the alcohol can run a saw hotter than needed as well as the water and corn sugar contaminants. I have an alcohol tester I use at the station to make sure the 93 octane gas has 10% or lower alcohol level. I also keep my saws in good clean shape every weekend and make sure they are tuned properly. I just want to make sure the type of 2 cycle oil I use will keep these saws running for a long time.

tbrickner · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2009, 09:35:58 pm »

Bandmiller2:

Thanks for the advice. I'll try the 50:1 with my current synthetic and see how it works this month.

Tom

cb6048 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 28, 2009, 06:54:44 am »

Quote from: cheyenne on February 26, 2009, 08:52:38 pm

To me 2 cycle oil is 2 cycle oil but I may be wrong. "BUT" I have always run 32 to 1 and never had a problem.....Cheyenne

I thought the same thing, I was running my blue marble snomobile oil in my 257 till I bought my 576xp the dealer told me my snomobile oil was designed for liquid cooled two strokes and husky xp and the like are designed for air cooled two strokes. Made sense to me and for what the 576xp cost I'll stick with the husky xp oil w/stabilizer already in it.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #17 on:** February 28, 2009, 08:43:46 am »

I met a Tom Brickner that moves trees a few years ago, thought you might be him.

Red 93 L1 #3383 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 28, 2009, 09:41:06 am »

At work ( I'm a mechanic for the park district ) we use Amsoil Saber mixed 80:1. Our current 2-cycle equipment consists of 6 chainsaws, 2 pole saws, 2 hedge trimmers, 2 cut-off saws, 20 string trimmers, 4 push mowers, 1 rammer tamper, 5 back-pack blowers, & 1 hand held blower. We normally have a couple of failures a year but we can't blame Amsoil @ 80:1 to be the cause. Last year we had a 10 year old John Deere ( Echo ) string trimmer score a piston & the 10 year old Husq. hand held blower had both crank bearings fail. Each department is in charge of mixing their own fuel & putting the mixed fuel in the correct equipment. When you trust high school kids to do things right they often don't.

caz · « **Reply #19 on:** February 28, 2009, 10:11:07 am »

Tbrickner,
I have been using Amsoil for close to 12 plus yrs, used in a Husky spc 50, Husky 61, Husky 35
And my echo weedeater. I cut around 4 to 6 cords a year The 50 gets used the most and still runs like a
champ. Heck I have only changed one plug in the 50 and only because it cracked at the top. Bought this saw in
1990. 100:1 Amsoil

tbrickner · « **Reply #20 on:** February 28, 2009, 11:03:35 pm »

Red and Caz:

Thanks for your input. i'll stick with the husvarna for now and try out some of the amsoil saber for a test run to see how it works. Thanks for the info.

Tom

tbrickner · « **Reply #21 on:** February 28, 2009, 11:07:04 pm »

Dave:

Sorry I am not the Tom Brickner you met years ago. I was orignially from the Pittsburgh area. Thanks for your help.

Tom

mr_ed · « **Reply #22 on:** March 01, 2009, 06:12:12 am »

Tom

I have been using Amsoil 2cycle oil in all stuff for many years,mixed 50:1.
I have a homelite XL12 that is (i'm guessing) 25+ years old.
I used a 16:1 ratio in it until a friend turned me on to the amsoil.I have been using it a good 15 years or longer.
The dealer that I got the amsoil from told me not to use a 100:1 mix use 50:1,And to always use a good name brand high octane gas. Don't use the cheep gas PERIOD. I use Shell.
A high octane gas will let any 2 cycle engine run cooler,because it has a slower burn time.
I wouldn't use amsoil or any synthetic oil for that matter in any new saw.Use what the saw manufacturer recommends until the rings have time to seat properly.
In the Stihl manual that come with my new ms280,it said full power would not be accomplished until 5 or 6 tanks of gas were fun through the saw. At full power the rings should be seated.

Mr_Ed

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #23 on:** March 01, 2009, 06:36:51 am »

I've used 100:1 Amzoil in a Sthil FS550 brush saw and many thinners use it also. Never seen anyone ruin a saw, ever on it. But I decided last season I am not paying those prices for Amzoil any longer. I get a lot more use out of a saw than many because I take care of stuff. I only broke one set of handle bars, some guys will bust up 3 or more sets a year and take the clutch springs out. Keep the saw sharp and don't swing it like it's a dull hand sythe.

sbhooper · « **Reply #24 on:** March 01, 2009, 10:42:37 am »

I just found this forum. I wish it had been sooner!

If you use the Amsoil, you will never regret it. I have been a dealer for many years and use nothing but Amsoil in all of my engines-4-cycle or 2. I have run the oil at 100:1 mix and it makes a saw absolutely scream. You will never foul a plug using it and have virtually no smoke. I use ther Saber Professional at 50:1 mix as it seems like my Husky saws like it better than at the 100:1. I have always gotten better fuel economy using it also. Your saws and your vehicles will last longer on synthetic-fact not opinion.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #25 on:** March 01, 2009, 10:48:11 am »

I won't argue with that. Although, I'm not sold on the 'fact' there is virtually no smoke. I know different from using it.

sbhooper · « **Reply #26 on:** March 01, 2009, 10:53:34 am »

There is virtually no smoke, but the FACT that I referred to is that your equipment will last longer.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #27 on:** March 01, 2009, 11:55:13 am »

Welcome to the FF by the way.

sbhooper · « **Reply #28 on:** March 01, 2009, 12:11:40 pm »

Thanks! I am glad that I found it. I have been cutting trees for a long time, but after spending only a short time here, there is obviously lots that I do not know about saws etc.

tbrickner · « **Reply #29 on:** March 01, 2009, 04:15:46 pm »

To All:

It seems like many have used the Amsoil Saber at 80:1 or 50:1 ratio in chainsaws with a lot of success.

Has anyone used the OPTI-2 at 100:1 ratio with good results?

Also, does the Amsoil Saber contain fuel stabilizers? If so how long is the fuel stabilizer good for?

Tom

Rocky_J · « **Reply #30 on:** March 01, 2009, 04:29:07 pm »

I'm just leery of any oil having adequate lubrication abilities when diluted down to 100-1. Synthetic oils these days are pretty good, but I don't believe that Amsoil or Opti are twice as good as the other top oils labeled for 50-1 use. I think it's simply a way for those companies to get more money out of the same oil but make it look like it's not so expensive. When you break it down to how much you're paying per ounce of oil, it's criminal.

I use a top name brand synthetic, but I mix it at 50-1.

cheyenne · « **Reply #31 on:** March 01, 2009, 11:44:15 pm »

TB I've never had a problem with carbonizing or anything else. I think it makes my saws run cooler and better & I run saws six days a week. People ask me why my huskys sound so throaty & theirs sound whinny. But they run 50 to 1 and won't change. But you know how us old dogs are---Won't let go of a bone

....Cheyenne

tbrickner · « **Reply #32 on:** March 02, 2009, 08:12:21 am »

cheyenne

Thanks for your advice. I have some regular synthetic I ave been running through my saws for a while so I am sure they are broken in. I also use Shell 93 octaine gas to lower the heat to the enginne. It sounds like I'll stick with 50:1 on synthetic with both my saws. I just want to make sure I don't have a problem with carbonizing.

HAS ANYONE HAD ANY LUCK WITH THE OPTI-2? I UNDERSTAND IT IS A GOOD 2 CYCLE OIL WITH A GREAT GAS STABILIZER?

Tom

sbhooper · « **Reply #33 on:** March 02, 2009, 10:19:43 am »

I don't know if there is actually a fuel stabilizer in the Amsoil Saber, but I know that you can keep it for quite awhile because I have. It should not be an issue, though, if you mix it in gallon quantities. I have had it in 2-cycle garden equipment from one summer to the next with zero trouble starting the next year.

I have used Amsoil at 100:1 mix and works great. They are not going to put it out if it If you don't feel comfortable at that mix, then run it at 50:1 or whatever you want. It is exactly what it says it is. You will not have carbon issues with it either.

I cannot speak for other synthetics as I have never tried them.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #34 on:** March 02, 2009, 11:12:25 am »

I never had carbon issues with it's use in brush saws. In fact on some maintenance courses they pulled plugs on the saws and such and they were clean as could be after a season of use. But for me it gets too expensive especially when a new saw is bought every other year, compared to several years for a chain saw. Guys keep old saws for parts even if the motor is good. It saves a lot of time and running when you have a box of parts in the back of the car and don't have to waste a whole day going into the settlements, often times 50 + miles away to get stuff fixed. Or a spare saw in the back of the truck you can retrieve and got back to cutting, then take the saw in the evening for repair work. Some guys will work on saws into the evening at the shops because their business is out of the garage or shop next door. Time is money, and if the blade ain't spinning in brush you don't make a dime.

tbrickner · « **Reply #35 on:** March 02, 2009, 10:04:11 pm »

To All

I have done some checking on other 2 cycle oils. There are some recommendations of Belray H1R or Klotz R-50 at 32:1 or 40:1 ratio's and old mobil Mx2t used in racing.

Has anyone had experience with these Belray H1R or Klotz R-50?

It looks like you can't get the Mobil Mx2T any more.

cheyenne may be on to something in keeping the oils at 40:1 or 32:1 see the following link.

http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/oil_test/index.htm

Tom

oldsaw · « **Reply #36 on:** March 02, 2009, 10:21:35 pm »

I've got a nice little stash of 2T, enough to last me for a while. Then I start to search for the next synthetic.

Once you have run synthetic, especially for milling, you never go back.

Mark

tbrickner · « **Reply #37 on:** March 03, 2009, 11:49:07 pm »

Has anyone used the Belray H1R or Klotz R-50 in a chainsaw with any good results?

cheyenne · « **Reply #38 on:** March 05, 2009, 12:45:33 am »

If your using something with good results why would you change.....Cheyenne

tbrickner · « **Reply #39 on:** March 05, 2009, 09:03:14 pm »

Cheyenne:

I am trying to find the best 2 cycle oil to run in my saws (good oil coverage, good compression and low carbon build up) and wanted to find out what types of oil has worked for people who get a lot of use out of their saw. I know that some brands will carbon up the saw depending on mix ratio, and saw tuning. I keep my saws tuned up based on season but was interested to see what 2 cycle oil people have had luck with over the past 10 years. I want to stick with a synthetic but there are lots of pie in the sky claims about some of these 2 cycle synthetics. Locally I can get Husvarna xp, Amsoil Saber, Opti-2, Stihl, and Belray H1R.

I know some people like to mix at 32:1, 40:1 and 50:1. I think for my saws the 40:1 or 50:1 ratio would keep the saw cool and reduce the posibility of carboning up the saw by burning the oil. I am in the process of buying an infrared thermometer to check my tuning vs oil ratio mix to see how the oil mix heats up the engine. I know you typically try to keep the engine below the 180 to 190 deg range.

From what I have read on some other sites, the Belray H1R works well at a 40:1 ratio.
The Sthil and Husvarna ar 40:1 or 50:1.
I know that some people have had hit or miss with the Amsoil Saber and don't typically mix it at the full 100:1 ratio but take it down to 40:1 or 50:1. With these variations I think I'll stay away from the Amsoil Saber.

I know you lean toward the 32:1 ratio. I would imagine you have your saw tuned a little rich and take advantage of the lower rato to get optimum sweet spot in performance out of your saw. I want to make sure my saws run coolier and it seems from the dibate on ratios that a higher ratio 50:1 runs the saw a little cooler than the 40:1 or 32:1 ratios, but I also want to make sure I don't limit the oil too much and end up scarring a cylinder or loose the sealing properties of the oil. Likewise I don't want to put too much oil in the system and end up varnishing or coating the cylinder.

What type of oil has worked for you at the 32:1 ratio?

I hope that some people will post the oil that has worked for them along with the ratio they are using the oil at, and how long they have been using it for. I need to make sure whatever oil I end up with works for me for an 8 hour day of serious cutting.

Thanks for your help and comments!
Tom

johnjbc · « **Reply #40 on:** March 06, 2009, 06:03:10 pm »

Has anyone tried any of these oils in their chainsaw

Pennzoil® 2-Cycle Oil for Air Cooled Engines
http://www.pennzoil.com/products/outdoor/2cycle_aircooled.html

Royal Purple 2-Cycle TCW III
http://www.royalpurple.com/2-cycle-oil-o.html

Multi-Purpose 2-Cycle Engine Oil http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=115

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #41 on:** March 07, 2009, 06:59:00 am »

John , all three are name brand, likely not diddle differance between them.Really most use so little 2cyc. oil that price is not a factor.You use the best you can find,today thats synthetic or a blend.Thats my opinion,nothing wrong with dino oil,2cyc.engines are a high stress application you give them every advantage you can.Frank C.

sbhooper · « **Reply #42 on:** March 07, 2009, 10:07:49 am »

I just want to add something on the blend oils. To legally be called semi-synthetic, an oil only has to have one percent synthetic in it. In other words, it can be a scam. Go petroleum or synthetic. I would not use semi-synthetic in anything. The same goes for vehicles.

tbrickner · « **Reply #43 on:** March 10, 2009, 10:14:25 pm »

John,

Stay away from the royal purpal. In the cycling world this doesn't seem to hold up so I wouldn't use it. The pennsoil 2 cycle has good reviews and you probably won't go wrong with it.

barbender · « **Reply #44 on:** March 12, 2009, 01:40:09 am »

I used to run the Klotz synthetic in my race snowmobile, it was good stuff and it smelled like dish soap. I even ran a little through my old 266 husky, not enough to make any judgements other than it didn't blow up and it smelled nice.

I am sure not sold on that 100:1 ratio that amsoil advertises, I'm really leary of that. I still run Jonsered oil in my saws at 32:1 or 40:1, I don't trust those leaner mixtures, I've never had any carbon problems at those ratios but I did have a Jred 2165 throw the main bearings at the recommended 50:1. So now I run them richer.

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Author Topic: 2 Cycle Oil Husqvarna xp, Amsoil saber, OPTI-2 (Read 4367 times)