fruit tree spacing requirements

[Banjo picker]

A neighbor came by yesterday that has just built a really nice home joining our property, and ask me to help him with his fruit trees he has bought.  I told him I probably wasn't the one to be asking.  But what should be the spacing of apple pear peach and the like, and on what side should they face?  (South east etc.??)  He also has bought blackberrys and assorted vineyard typs.  I will find out some more specifics.  This area is in extreme NE Mississippi.  (Iuka)  If I put this in the wrong place, just move it please.  Tim

[thecfarm]

I don't really know,but this much I do know from when my Father had a lot of trees.Plant them in straight rows,like a grid to make it easy to mow around.I don't know about if you will have trouble with birds after the berries,but try to plant them with some easy way to net them.A little planning can save a lot of work over the years.

[ErikC]

 If you have dwarf, semi-dwarf or standard trees the spacing requirements vary. I think minimum of 10' centers on dwarf, up to about 25' centers on standards. They do like full sun if possible. Planting them up on a hillside instead of at the bottom can save getting bit by a late frost sometimes. Also make sure there won't be too much standing water, again a slight hillside can help. If there is one. The rows cfarm brought up is a good idea if you have more than a couple to plant.

[Banjo picker]

I will try to see him tomorrow and give him the info.  Rows seem to be a good idea, and oh yes he has hillsides.  While Miss. is pretty flat the tallest point in the state is maybe a half mile or so away.  A whopping 806 ft.  Thanks  i will pass on the spacing info as well.  Tim

[Ron Scott]

Also see this Thread.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,31667.msg457394.html#msg457394

[Banjo picker]

Thanks Ron  .   Tim

[Ironmower]

Most all fruit trees are grafted too root stocks that are suited best for your soil and climate. Apple/pear trees, besure too keep the grafted "area" above the soil if not the tree will root above the grafted area and will not keep its "dwarfed" features. Almost all the trees We've planted had too be staked, cuz the roots are designed too get maximum yield in the shortest of time (maybe 5 to 8 years as compared to original trees of 10 to 15 years) and not to hold them up. when planting make sure the root ball stays moist, lean trees slightly too the nothwest the sun will "pull" them strait and tamp them tight, air will kill the roots. Peaches are grafted to, but need too be buried just above the grafted area.Peaches are more prone to freezing and won't sprout roots above graft. First pruning will determine shape and not stress the tree........... This is what I was taught 14 years ago in Adams county Pa. I was born & raised in the old orchards of southern fulton county Pa. and Washington county Md. ( mason-dixon line). Hope this helpful , I miss the apple/peach blossoms in spring. Good luck!!!!!!!!!!

[Banjo picker]

Thanks Ironmower, I would never have thought about starting them to the NW and let the sun pull them.  Tim