Author Topic: I got my homemade mill running but need help, please? (Read 9826 times)

backwoods sawyer · « **Reply #20 on:** February 08, 2009, 11:31:19 pm »

I like to have a new band on when ever I am making adjustments. It is just one less factor that could be causing the problem.

GF · « **Reply #21 on:** February 09, 2009, 10:40:31 am »

I was able to set mine in vertical plane by removing the wheels and attaching a straight edge to the hub. Measure from the center of the hub to the top of the straight edge to make sure they are the same on each. Next attach the string with the plumb bob on the small section extended from the top of the straight edge. Measure the distance from the string to where its tied to the front edge of the straight edge on the top. Next measure the bottom of the plumb bob to the bottom front edge of the straight edge, make adjustments until both measurements are the same. Do the same on the next hub without moving the sawmill. This should make both wheels in identical vertical plane. (Sorry for the rough drawing below)

GF

york · « **Reply #22 on:** February 09, 2009, 01:17:07 pm »

Quote from: sawmilllawyer on February 06, 2009, 11:51:21 pm

fishphamer, looked at the Cooks guides and think they are the best buy out there for the money. Stick with it you get the mill running right. Best of everything.

OK,i agree 100%-new setup for my TH-the movable bar stock is 1 by 1 1/2 inch-you get what ya pay for in this world.....

trying to get photo of new setup but having trouble,getting into post..

[/img]

fishpharmer · « **Reply #23 on:** February 10, 2009, 01:21:59 am »

Thanks to everyone again.

Didn't get any mill work done today. Seined catfish all day.

I did order 4 blades from Cooks. 2 Simonds and 2 Supersharp. And a blade alignment tool.
They backed up Tom's recommendation of staying with a 1 1/4 " blade. Said a wider blade could take more tension but needed more HP and was harder to make run true.

I was an easy sell for smaller and cheaper blades.

One thing that the Cooks fella said, was that the rubber tires could take the set out of the blade on the side touching tire and that could cause the dive. Sorta made sense since the set would be on the bottom tooth when cutting and and not the topside, therefore diving. Seems the rubber tire wouldn't be hard enough to take the set out of the inside teeth, to me. Anyway I will keep that in mind if the new bands cut okay and start to dive.

I am starting to get this alignment thing. It should be absolutely required to consult ForestryForum.com before building a sawmill.

I guess I am a slow learner. Okay I noticed something the last few days. Beside the fact that the driveshaft was out of line and the band doesn't track in the center of each wheel. I am thinking that my cutterhead frame may be warped a small amount in a diagonal way, I am jumping to conclusions at this point.

I did a little sketch that tries to show how the blade looks compare to the logbunks/tracks, here goes

okay preview is difficult to see.
The blade is not parallel to log bunks.

If everything else is correct, flatness, tension, sharpness , will the blade being a little offkilter from a straight down view affect the cut? Why or why not?

GF I appreciate this instruction, I am not smart enough to figure it out. Got a few questions..

Quote from: GF on February 09, 2009, 10:40:31 am

I was able to set mine in vertical plane by removing the wheels and attaching a straight edge to the hub.

How do you attach the straight edge? Clamp, lugnut?

Measure from the center of the hub to the top of the straight edge to make sure they are the same on each.

From center of the hub to the top of straight edge on track? I am slow here. Or top of attached straight edge?

I think if I understand the above part the rest will register with me. If the tires are in the same vertical plane but still not 90 degrees from horizontal plane track won't I still have trouble? I know this if for my benefit and do apologize for not comprehending, maybe someone can put it in simpler terms

Next attach the string with the plumb bob on the small section extended from the top of the straight edge. Measure the distance from the string to where its tied to the front edge of the straight edge on the top. Next measure the bottom of the plumb bob to the bottom front edge of the straight edge, make adjustments until both measurements are the same. Do the same on the next hub without moving the sawmill. This should make both wheels in identical vertical plane. (Sorry for the rough drawing below)

GF

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Thanks everyone

Firebass · « **Reply #24 on:** February 10, 2009, 01:47:04 am »

fishfarmer,

Love to help but it sounds like your getting some great pointers here. Keep it up. your almost there

Ain't it fun

Firebass

GF · « **Reply #25 on:** February 10, 2009, 09:03:36 am »

Fishpharmer,
Level the track as best you can. The straight edge mounted to each of the hubs will be used to get both hubs in vertical plane with each other, if they are not in vertical plane with each other it could cause the blade on the top of one of the tires to be further in or out than on the bottom, if this happens this will cause the blade to walk very slightly as it goes aorund the the tire centering itself.
Sorry for the porr drawing. The purpose of the straight edge and the plumb bob is to get the measurments identical at the top outside edge of the straight edge out to where the string is tied, and to measure the bottom front side edge of the straight edge to the point of the plumb bob, mor than likely when you first start you will notice a difference in the distances. The goal is to try to get the measurements the same all bth hubs. If the top measure two inches from the outside edge of straight edge to the string the bottom should be the same, do the same with the other hub. This way you will know that both hub are now aligned togther in a vertical plane with each other. Once I did this on mine I have been running it for 5 years and had no problem with the tracking.
I also made a leveling tool to level the blade with the track, I took a 2" piece of square tubing and cut a piece, I then removed one side. I next cut two slots for the straight edge to go through. in the middle bottom I welded a nut on the bottom side and threaded a bolt in. You should be able to put a straight edge through the slots and then hand tighten the bolt to the blade, this will secure the straight edge to the top of the blade. I normally use a 36" straight edge centered and measure both end from the deck to the end of each straight edge. You can then make the adjustments as needed to level the blade with the deck.

fishpharmer · « **Reply #26 on:** February 10, 2009, 09:03:39 pm »

Thanks GF.

I am still wondering if the blade running against the rubber tires will push the set off on the inside (next to tires) of blade.

This would be topside of cut, I think.

Would that make blade dive?

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #27 on:** February 10, 2009, 09:17:02 pm »

Losing set on the inside of the blade, will cause the blade to dive.

Did you use new tires ?? If so, you can cut some of the tread on each side of the center rib, and that will allow the blade to ride the center rib, same as the "V" belt wheels on other mills.

We found Munksforsager blades to be stiff enough that we have no problems with losing set. Takes a little more umph to set the blades.

fishpharmer · « **Reply #28 on:** February 10, 2009, 09:37:37 pm »

Thanks Fla. maybe thats why it started to dive from the beginning.

I did use new tires.

When my new bands arrive I will see if they cut good to start with and then dive.

I will cut tread if necessary, that makes sense to me.

AKA "monkey" blades I read about in some of your other posts?

Thanks

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #29 on:** February 10, 2009, 11:05:33 pm »

Yes, Monkey Blades. Made our mill work as good as any manufactured mill.

WE had Woodmizers, Suffolks, and ended up with Munks. We will never switch.

Tom · « **Reply #30 on:** February 10, 2009, 11:38:03 pm »

If I understand the "not square to the bed" picture. It might be OK. If the blade "leads" from one side to the other with one side lagging, It would have to be a lot to make much difference. What it will do is cut back on some of the width of the cut, but that isn't all that critical. There have been sawmill manufacturers that have toyed with the angled blade. Some even swore by it and said it cut better.

The criticalness is that the band is straight, fore and aft. Level to to the bed from tip of a tooth to the back of the band body.

The other is that it is level with the bunks. It has to be the same distance to the bunks from the band to the bunk on both the power and idle side.

That one side of the band hits the wood before the other is a minimal problem and might even be an attribute, according to some manufacturers. (I can't remember which one)

fishpharmer · « **Reply #31 on:** February 10, 2009, 11:52:31 pm »

Thanks for addressing the "not square to the bed" situation. I am beginning to have hope for my mill

I do know it would help if I used the proper terminology.

I will continue to

trying to learn.

Haytrader · « **Reply #32 on:** February 11, 2009, 12:01:41 am »

Tom,

I remember which manufacturer. Cause I have one.
It is the E Z Boardwalk. I have some pics of it in my gallery. The blade is at a 15 degree angle to the log.
We have been sawing pine and with a sharp blade it will pull the manual mill through the cut with out any push.

Radar67 · « **Reply #33 on:** February 11, 2009, 12:31:06 am »

James, what's on the spit for Thursday this week?

GF · « **Reply #34 on:** February 11, 2009, 09:42:04 am »

I am also am like Fla._Deadheader, I only use Munks blades on mine also, had tried some others but went back tot he Munks.

GF

fishpharmer · « **Reply #35 on:** February 12, 2009, 01:18:13 am »

Since I have no vertical angle adjustments. I decided to do some modifications while waiting for the new blades. No vertical angle adjustment on the idler side, I should have said.

I removed the wheel and tire from the idler side hub
I pulled the pin out of hinge (the short round shaft makes a T on top of the hinge pin.)

I am took it to a machine shop for modification. Not sure how it will work but this is my idea.
The idler side is a plate with the shaft welded to it. The shaft and support brackets will be cut off the plate with the hinges on the end. This plate will be reused.
Another plate of the same size will be welded to the shaft in the same configuration. Only the shaft will be shortened to allow for the added thickness of another plate.

A hinge will be welded on the top edge of both plates. Holes will be drilled in the front plate and 1 inch nuts will be welded to the holes. Another nut will go on a one inch bolt, to lock in place,and one inch bolt will go thru the front plate and allow for vertical angle adjustment by pressing against the back plate.

Clear as mud?

fishpharmer · « **Reply #36 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:23:50 am »

I was up too late to be typing last night. I suppose I should have said those last pictures are the old setup. I was trying to explain the new setup and get any feedback, yay or nay.

Thanks again

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #37 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:37:44 am »

We built our head frame differently than yours. Whenever we change a blade, we tighten up normally to the same spot every time. Then, watch where the blade runs, IN RELATION to the guides, which are set dead on even. If there is too much space between the back of the blade and the face of the flange on the guide wheel, a LITTLE more turn-tension, twists the frame a minute amount, and the blade moves closer to the flange.

Here is a photo of what we have. There are 2 bolts. One pulls the wheel tight, the other is the normal set point. Over tighten will twist the frame and do as I wrote, above. IF a blade is shorter, (Different Brand), we can adjust the stop bolt, then tension as above.

It does NOT take a lot of movement to run the blade on or off the tire. ¼ turn is a LOT .

fishpharmer · « **Reply #38 on:** February 12, 2009, 06:12:49 pm »

Fla , thanks. possibly I am using too large of a range of motion. I like your setup. Why didn't you tell me this before hand

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #39 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:46:09 pm »

Photos have been in the Gallery for several years.

Stay with yours. I feel you are closing in on the alignment, and, new blade might make all the difference.

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Author Topic: I got my homemade mill running but need help, please? (Read 9826 times)