Author Topic: Oregon chainsaw sharpeners (Read 1759 times)

RPeter · « **on:** January 02, 2009, 03:38:14 pm »

Does anybody want to give me an opinion on the Oregon 108181 chainsaw sharpener?? I know the 511A is a much better machine but just I do not have enough sharpening to do to justify the $300 price. If the "mini jolly" works I can justify the $170 it will cost.

Kevin · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2009, 03:45:46 pm »

I wouldn't buy a chain grinder for general use as it's faster to sharpen the chain on the bar with a file.

I have the Oregon 511 and seldom use it.

Bernhard · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2009, 04:21:12 pm »

For sharpenin here and there the "Mini-Jolly" should be ok. Oregon has a reputation to loose.

RPeter · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2009, 04:31:49 pm »

Kevin, thanks for the reply!

I do not think I would do enough sharpening to develop good hand file technique. I was hoping that using a bench mount would help out the person that does not do grinding for a living

stonebroke · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2009, 04:39:16 pm »

I bought a grinder a long time ago because I could not hand file very well. I now can somewhat. I handfile about halfway down and then clean up and make all the teeth the same with the grinder . Then it is good to go. Also I can do a much more uniform job on the rakers with a grinder.

Stonebroke

beenthere · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2009, 05:54:18 pm »

I hand file, and wouldn't want to even try getting a grinder set up to do a better job.
To me, would take more knowledge and skill using the grinder than using a hand file. One stroke at a time, can't get too far off. But the grinder will be "zingg", "whoops", "oh crap", DanG", "wish I could get that tooth back" each and every time it is set up.

I've had experts grind my chain when I've hit rocks, or steel fence, or insulators...and they have yet to come close to a good hand filing job...IMO.

Admit they prolly were not as good as some experts here. But the point is, seems it would take many a chain to get it right.

The other thing, I see Nordern Fool has them, but I'd be concerned that it is just a chinese knock-off of an original. They are known to do such trickery. I'd go to Harbon Fright first.

I hand file after each tank of gas...keep the saw out of the ground, and try to avoid dirt in the bark. It only takes a stroke or two at the most to put the edge back on the teeth. Easy and quick to do, and can't go too far wrong that way.

But keep us posted if you get it and how it works.

Tim L · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2009, 05:59:49 pm »

I bought a speed sharp (oregon) from bailey's ad I love it.

Corley5 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2009, 07:41:32 pm »

I was a hand filing purist then I bought a MAXX grinder and CBN wheels for it. I don't care if I ever hand file a chain again

wi woodcutter · « **Reply #8 on:** January 02, 2009, 08:04:54 pm »

Seems to me a correctly hand filed chain is better than one off of a grinder. Plus I don't have a grinder with me out in the woods.

Reddog · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02, 2009, 09:16:59 pm »

I bought a Maxx a few years ago also. File when I have to in the woods. But prefer grinding at home. To me both cut the same if set up right.

Corley5 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02, 2009, 09:36:23 pm »

I keep sharp chains handy and change them out as needed rather than filing on a stump which is something I was never good at

Even when I hand filed I took extra chains. To me the key to getting a good job of sharpening with a grinder is to get CBN wheels. The pink rocks the grinders come with don't do a good job IMO

Reddog · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02, 2009, 09:43:23 pm »

Yes, the supplied wheels are to hard and burn the tooth easy.
I found some softer ruby wheels that work good.
Haven't sprung for a cbn yet.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2009, 09:56:32 pm »

Some hand filers use an assortment of guides that help with maintaining cutter shape. I don't, so can't recommend one to you. I think beenthere has a doohinckus for filing he's rather fond of.

Corley5 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 02, 2009, 10:08:55 pm »

I bought one of the Oregon clone grinders from Bailey's a while back to set up for grinding rakers so I wouldn't have to change wheels and setings on the MAXX. It's still in the box under the bench

beenthere · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2009, 11:14:01 pm »

The "doohinckus"

I use, and like.

..on the bench and in the woods. Works well for rakers too.
One fellow I cut wood with has been sharpening his own on a grinder, and I mentioned what I used. He called me to thank me for how well he likes it over his grinder.
With this I don't very often change chains...but I don't cut near what a lot of guys cut either.

RPeter · « **Reply #15 on:** January 03, 2009, 10:08:53 pm »

Thanks for all the replies guys. It really does help. If I could watch someone that could file by hand I might be able to pick it up. However, I do not know anyone.

If I understand it, the Maxx is comparable to the 511A and costs around $325, the same as the 511A. I need to file maybe 25 chains a year. I can not justify the $325.

My real question is if I spend the $170 for the "mini" do you think I would be happy with it?

Again thanks for helping a novice

jander3 · « **Reply #16 on:** January 03, 2009, 10:16:31 pm »

I normally hand file. No jig, just eyeballs. Touching up a chain it pretty straight forward. Take your time, keep the file lined up. I learned by looking at a new chain while filing an old chain. Be patient and take your time.

Even with a grinder, you need to be able to hand file for touching up in the field, or fixing a rocked chain.

John Mc · « **Reply #17 on:** January 05, 2009, 08:49:51 pm »

Quote from: RPeter on January 03, 2009, 10:08:53 pm

Thanks for all the replies guys. It really does help. If I could watch someone that could file by hand I might be able to pick it up. However, I do not know anyone.

Where do you live? Someone here may be able to help you out with a live demonstration. I'd be happy to if you are ever in my part of Vermont.

Also, the "Game Of Logging teaches about hand filing in their level II class (which includes basic saw maintenance). They are great classes if you are interested.

John Mc

JOHNNYV · « **Reply #18 on:** January 05, 2009, 10:08:55 pm »

There are a few good chain sharpening videos on YOU TUBE. At least they seem to get the idea across on what to do. JohnnyV

cheyenne · « **Reply #19 on:** January 06, 2009, 02:42:26 pm »

Hand filing just takes practice, lots of it but you'll get the hang of it. Good files are a must. I have the Oregon 511A and it has its place. I don't like thier setworks setup too loose & sloppy & the pink wheels are junk.....Cheyenne

Larry · « **Reply #20 on:** January 06, 2009, 06:30:16 pm »

I bought an Oregon grinder a long time ago...it was the best they made. I also learned how to file about the same time using the gadget beenthere pictured, sorta as training wheels. My grinder found it’s way to the neighbors place and I didn’t miss it at all. I’m good at filing and even made a few catty remarks about folks using a grinder right here on the forum. All this took place in north Missouri...no rocks.

I moved to northwest Arkansas where we have nothing but rocks...on top of rocks.

Some of the trees even seem to hide rocks under the bark.

Touch the chain to the ground for an split second and the chain needs major repair. So...I purchased the ultra expensive Harbor Freight grinder.

Use it on a rocked out chain...it ain’t pretty but gets the chain cutting again. If I manage to avoid rocks for two fill ups the chain is back to perfect with the file.

Kevin · « **Reply #21 on:** January 06, 2009, 08:13:04 pm »

I found some steel inside a willow today, that chain will visit the grinder.

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Author Topic: Oregon chainsaw sharpeners (Read 1759 times)