Husqvarna question

[Neil_B]

Been having trouble with my 365 lately in that the chain keeps heating up to the point of stretching terribly. It's due to not getting the oil properly and upon investigation I found that the oil inlet on the bar doesn't line up with the outlet on the saw when the bar and chain are tensioned by lifting on the nose of the bar. I found the studs to be worn slightly so replaced them but it will still misalign to a degree. It seems that the shoulder of the studs are narrow and only contacts half the thickness of the bar which I think is causing them to wear down quickly.
BTW, I put a new bar on thinking it was just the old bar was worn but it still does it. If I don't lift up on the nose of the bar as much, it works as it should but as soon as it moves up till its tight, it will stop the oil flow again.

Any thoughts would help out.
Neil  

[smwwoody]

What brand and part #  bar are you useing??  or just brand gauge pitch and length

Woody

[Kevin]

Does the chain tensioning  pin match up with the hole in the bar?

[Neil_B]

Woody, Oregon, 3/8pitch, 58 guage, 18". Old bar was same numbers but with replacable tip. New bar is solid nose (Pro-Lite I think).

Kevin, pin holes seem to match up alright and think they are the same on both the old and new bar.

It was starting to do this with the old bar on so bought a new one thinking the bar was just worn. Did the same with the new bar and that made me look to other things like the studs.

[smwwoody]

Do you have acess to a differnt brand of bar??

We had the same problem with oregon bars on the 372's for a short time now they are working fine it may have benn a bad hole location for a short time in production

Woody

[Neil_B]

Our local dealers only carry Sthil and Oregon bars. Been thinking of trying Woodsman (?) bars from Cutters Choice mail order but not sure how good they are. Maybe will order one anyway and try it out.

[Kevin]

With the bar on the two studs and the tensioner engaged in the bar it should match up with oil outlet.
Would that be a Laser- Lite by chance, #188LAMD009?

[jokers]

Significant chain stretch + dry chain = dullchain. The chain will be so dry that you think you have an oiler problem but the heat built up by forcing a dull chain actually cooks all of the oil off. Is all of your trouble with used chain? You may have stretched them to the point that the oiler will not line up. I`ve never heard of a bar stud wearing out, what did your dealer suggest?

Russ

[Neil_B]

Kevin, Pro Lite #188SLHD009. Everything seems to match up alright as far as studs and tensioner go but seems to be a lot of play.

Russ, dealer didn't have anything to offer . The chain is fairly new and sharp. It cuts well with out any pressure on the saw but gets really hot.
You may have a point with the stretching. I measured up a couple of points where the inlet and outlets would line up better and it does closer to the sprocket. I may have stretched the chain so much now that it is throwing it off.

Also found today that the points on the drive tangs were curled upwards a bit so I filed them back down to a curve. Probably from running the new chain on an old bar. The Oregon bars have an oil dam just before the inlet hole and when the rails wear down the bottom of the tangs hit the top of the raised oil dam. So even if you have clearance along the rest of the rail that dam will hit the bottom of the tangs. have to keep an eye on that next time.


As far as the studs go. They are peened down where they mate to the bar. They only have about an 1/8" of the shoulder contacting the bar so may not be supporting it as well and getting some rubbing. The studs are seated properly on the casing so they just seem to be short. Can't remember if my Sthil had full shoulders on the studs or not.
They aren't different studs because they match up with the original ones which were also short on the shoulder.

[Kevin]

There is an obsolete motor mount which is D005, it has been replaced with the new D009 but I can't say when the change was made or what significant difference there is between the two.

[Oregon_Rob]

Also found today that the points on the drive tangs were curled upwards a bit so I filed them back down to a curve. Probably from running the new chain on an old bar. The Oregon bars have an oil dam just before the inlet hole and when the rails wear down the bottom of the tangs hit the top of the raised oil dam. So even if you have clearance along the rest of the rail that dam will hit the bottom of the tangs. have to keep an eye on that next time

Driver dammage (Drive Tangs) is more likely to come from an old sprocket or in a really bad situation, one of the wrong pitch. Did you replace the drive sprocket with the new bar and chain?

[Neil_B]

Yep, new sprocket, right pitch. According to all the numbers, everything matches up. That's what makes me think it was the old bar that did the damage.

Seems to be working out alright now. I made the oil inlet holes a bit elongated and increased the oil flow to max. Think too that Russ is right so will be picking up a new chain and will use this one as a "just in case" spare.