357xp bar/chain combo

[Urbicide]

You can change out the automatic de-comp to a manual one. If your dealer can not help you out then call Bailey's. They are good folks.

[SawTroll]

It also has a factory-new Husqvarna 3/8 chisel chain (I assume that's just a re-badged Oregon chain?). Have people found the sharpening job when new out of the box to be pretty good on these chains, or can you usually do a better job yourself? I've gotten pretty good at hand sharpening with a file holder, and the appropriate tool for checking the depth gauges, but haven't checked this on e over closely yet.

It is rebadged Oregon, and they usually are pretty sharp out of the box - a stroke or two with a file to clean up transport damage isn't out of line though.

Some times the rakers are too high - check with a raker guide!

[John Mc]

You were right, SawTroll. The rakers were a bit high. I took them down using the gauge, and it helped. The cutting teeth weren't too bad (I'd only made a few cuts since new, and that was in clean wood). I touched them up anyway, and it made quite a difference.

The tach I ordered is on back-order, so I still haven't retuned it to get the RPMs up. That should help a bit too.

Urbicide... I'll look into the manual de-comp you mentioned. They're not too expensive, IIRC. I just may swap it out. I don't want to run into the problem Stephen had.

John Mc

[Cut4fun]

Remember to seal and plug that extra hole left on the side of Cly good. $13 for a manual de-comp button.  Mine was switched over and it was a 04 and I bought it in 06 like new.  I didn't realize it was till the cylinder was off the other day doing a repair.


I had some brand new Oregon I was using the other day with a 084. The raker's were so high it was just riding on the wood and I had to push to get it to cut. I put the 025 raker guide on it and all is well and she feeds like it was suppose to. I bet the raker's were near 020 from the factory on this loop.

[Cut4fun]

John Mc,  UP DATE  on the plastic clamp and getting the warranty covered new one for replacement.

It took over a year to find the freaking air leak I knew it had, turned out the plastic clamp on my 357 was leaking and why it wasn't running up to par for awhile now, which I knew before the spring gtg when it also was spraying fuel during my cut because a hole in the line decided to show up that day (It was still good enough to beat the closest other racer with a 361 bragging how he almost beat my injured and not running right 357  ).

A friend happen to have a extra old style plastic intake for the saw laying around and installed it and wallah, no more leak. Thanks.

Anyhow you have to take the saw with serial number and the month and year you purchased it  . No receipt was needed thank goodness.

They ordered me a complete updated intake for the 357 FREE of charge and even gave me the old part back. I think me and this new dealer in my area is going to get along. I bought stuff I didn't need because he was so helpful and got right on the phone with husqvarna rep.

[John Mc]

Cut4Fun -

Thanks for keeping me posted.

You're having better luck than I am. I took my Jonsered 2152 to my local dealer for a carb rebuild. I noticed I had the plastic clamp and asked him about replacing it. Unfortunately, it appears mine is not covered under the recall/service bulletin. It seems some of the saws in my year were made with, and some without the plastic clamp. But according to my dealer, none of my model year are covered. He did a pressure check, and mine is not leaking (yet). I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

My 357 has the plastic clamp as well. The Husky dealer in my area didn't seem to know what I was talking about with the clamp problems. It might be time for me to find a new dealer? I'm assuming since I bought this one used, that I'm not going to get any kind of warranty coverage on it.

John Mc

[John Mc]

Remember to seal and plug that extra hole left on the side of Cly good. $13 for a manual de-comp button.  Mine was switched over and it was a 04 and I bought it in 06 like new.  I didn't realize it was till the cylinder was off the other day doing a repair.

I haven't poked around that hose yet. I figured I'd wait until the de-comp valve I ordered shows up. What do you use to seal that extra hole? I assume it's threaded, isn't it?

I had some brand new Oregon I was using the other day with a 084. The raker's were so high it was just riding on the wood and I had to push to get it to cut. I put the 025 raker guide on it and all is well and she feeds like it was suppose to. I bet the raker's were near 020 from the factory on this loop.

My rakers were probably close to .020 as well. Seems odd, but I guess if they are going to err, they'd rather be off in that direction than take them down too far.

[Cut4fun]

I took a copy of the post I made for the dealer to see. He wanted to keep a copy for his files and called the husky rep. I will post again and you can copy it for them. It has the saws listed and serial numbers affected listed in it. It is NO COST to the dealers it is all covered by husky. The rep even said they are paying for top end rebuilds that come back to  the leaky intake seal. Good Luck.

[Cut4fun]

Mine had a thread small bolt with red permatex sealer used.

Repost of plastic intake clamp to show your dealer. Print and take with you.

Service Bulletin for 357XP, 359, 353, 346XP
This service bulletin is not new. I thought that there might be some out there who were not aware of it so here it is. If your saw has a black plastic clamp around the intake right next to the cylinder it is applicable to it. If the clamp is of steel construction then you should be ok.

B0600023
SERVICE

*537 43 88-01*
*compl 537 25 13-02
English 1 (1)

SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP,
Partition wall and clamp for intake system,
2006-03

The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall.

The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.
The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.

Full replaceability prevails.
Introduced from serial number:
357XP 061100201
359 061100001
353 061100001
346XP 061100001

New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark
537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part
537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part

Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

[John Mc]

Thanks Cut4Fun. I had that service bulletin from your previous post. This time, I'll bring it with me to the dealer. I assume the 06 in the serial numbers you listed is the model year. So it would be saws made before this that had the problem (mine is an 05).

I'd like to get this replaced on both my Jonsered 2152 and my Husky 357. Hopefully I'll get some help from my dealer on this (I did buy a brush saw and two chainsaws from him, though the 357 I bought used from an individual).

John Mc

[Cut4fun]

Any serial number before the one posted is affected and probably still has the plastic type clamp. If he tells you different he is just shrugging you off and dont want  deal with it.

[John Mc]

Is there a place on the internet you can download these type of things, or do you have to be a dealer to get them? I'd like to find a copy that applies to my Jonsered 2152.

[John Mc]

Just when you thought this thread was finally dead...

I just got my tach in the mail today. I was going to try tuning my 357XP today. I've got some good directions (which someone here pointed me to) on the steps to go through to get the idle speed, idle mixture and high speed mixture fine tuned.

Before diving in, I downloaded a manual from the Husqvarna site. I wasn't sure which one applied, but I'm looking at one of the 2005 revisions. It show the recommended idle speed (2700 RPM), but does not show anything for high speed RPMs. I'm not sure where I picked up the 14,000 RPM spec I mentioned earlier... I can't find it now. I know others mentioned "set it for 14,000 and go", but I thought I'd double check first, since they may have been going off the number I threw out.

Is 14,000 the number I should shoot for? If I'm doing a lot of bucking hardwoods for firewood, should I run a bit on the richer side of that setting? Any other thoughts or pointers appreciated. This is my first time tuning a saw with a tach. When I've had to do it in the past, I always made sure I had someone check my settings before using it much.

Are service and parts manuals available for download on these saws? All I can find are the owners manuals, which aren't so helpful.

Thanks

John Mc

[beenthere]

I followed Joe_Indie's suggestion for setting the saw (Stihl specific maybe).  Nothing about needing to know rpms, high or low.

Only for a moment when sawing wood do the rpms max out, as the saw is in the wood cutting most of the time.

Not saying it isn't important for tuning, but keep wondering where it really is important. 

I'll be interested in further discussion, as it's been interesting so far. 

Here is a quote of what I saved from Joe's post.
   Setting the Carb on Stihl saw
Make sure the air filter is clean before you do a carb adjustment. Limited air flow could cause a fuel enrichment.
Start up the saw and let it warm up for a minute or so.
You might need to have a hand on the throttle or the saw may die in idle.
To set the L screw.
1. Turn in the bottom screw (LA) till you get the saw to a fast idle with your hands off the throttle.
2. Now turn in the L screw till the chain starts to turn at idle.
3. Back off the LA screw till this stops.
4. Now rev up to the maximum, while there, apply the brake and remove your hand from the throttle.(This should be done as a single motion)
When you do this the idle should drop a little bit and then come back to normal.
In case it drops down too far and dies, turn in the LA screw a full turn and back off the L screw a little bit.
Start it up, back off the LA screw if required.
Repeat the bit with the brake.

When you have done all that your L screw setting is completed.

To set your H screw, you will need to have the screwdriver in the H screw slot
Rev the saw to full throttle, then close down the H screw to the point that the engine speed increases, then back off from that point till the engine starts to 4-stroke (blubber or has a 'puttering' noise).
When you have done this correctly, the H screw is set.

If you find it difficult to set the H screw with this method, try this:

After you have set the L screw, @ full throttle, slowly turn in the H screw.
The engine speed will increase at a point, (note this point).
Turn it in further, if there is no further increase, release the throttle and back off the H screw to the noted point. From here back off the H screw by 5 minutes (similar to how you would set the minute hand of a clock or watch slower by 5 minutes). That's it.

In case the engine speed increases even beyond the initially noted point, although you could back off 5 minutes from that  point to give you maximum performance, its safer to do the backing off from the initial point.

[Cut4fun]

Nothing fancy for carb tuning.
For firewood cutting I have always followed this Madsen's carb tuning link.
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
I think stock the 357 is 14K wot, firewood cutting go for the burble and just a hair past clean up sound. Just keep a eye on your plug, thats the true tell all.

[Urbicide]

357XP / 359

IPL

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/usa/2003/I03000/I0301129.pdf

Workshop Manual


http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HWEN/HWEN2000/HWEN2000_1019117-26.pdf

 

[Cut4fun]

Got the new parts. Easy fix. Pull your carb and intake, remove the old leaky part with 2 new redesigned parts. half hour at best and no cost to you. *compl 537 25 13-02