357xp bar/chain combo

[John Mc]

I just picked up a used 357xp. I'm wondering what the best combination is for a bar and chain.

I'll generally be running a 16 or 18" bar. The saw came with an 18" bar, .050 gauge, and had an Oregon .325 pitch 95vp chain on it.

I was a bit surprised at this combination. I would have figured a 3/8" pitch would be more suited to this saw. Any thoughts on this?

I'm intending to use this as a firewood saw, felling and bucking mostly hardwoods: beech, maple, red & white oak. Generally 12" or less diameter, and a few occasions up to around 14 or 16". (Anything larger than that would be pretty rare.) I prefer to use chisel chains (round ground).

The chain that came with it is just about shot, and the bar shows discoloration from overheating and is fairly worn. Since I'm going to replace these anyway, I figure I might as well be sure to put my money in the right combination.

I'd appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.

John Mc

[Ed]

I think it's set up pretty good right now.  Maybe drop back to a 16" bar if you prefer it over the 18"
You really could go either way on the chain pitch, 3/8 would work fine too.  It would be a personal preference choice.

Ed

[Cut4fun]

I like it with 16" 3/8 7T and full chisel.  Since you need a new bar and chains, check the drum and replace the sprocket to 3/8's and your on your way.

[John Mc]

That's the way I was leaning, Cut4Fun.

I was thinking of getting it checked out by my local repair shop before using it much. Any thoughts on things I should get checked out while it's in?

[John Mc]

I think it's set up pretty good right now.  Maybe drop back to a 16" bar if you prefer it over the 18"
You really could go either way on the chain pitch, 3/8 would work fine too.  It would be a personal preference choice.

Is one set-up more suited to hardwoods, or more suited to larger or smaller diameters than the other?

[woodsrunner]

While I don't have a 357xp I do have a 359 and a 362XP. I have an 18 inch bar on each of those with 3/8 050 gauge chain. I run Stihl 33 RSC almost exclusively. With that chain and an 18 inch bar the 362XP will impress you. That same bar chain combo on the 359 does very well. So I'm guessing the 357XP should be in there pretty close to the 362XP. I think you would be very happy with the 18 inch bar and 3/8 chain combo.

[Cut4fun]

John Mc, there was a recall on some of the 346, 357, 359 early saws with plastic intake clamp. I will go find my post on it for you. Something to have them change being it was recalled.
Also some of the carbs gave people fits tuning (they used a couple different carbs). I happen to have a extra 357 carb if you have something like this happen to you.

[Cut4fun]

My 357 has the plastic clamp, but someday I plan on replacing it just as a precautionary measure.

Service Bulletin for 357XP, 359, 353, 346XP
This service bulletin is not new. I thought that there might be some out there who were not aware of it so here it is. If your saw has a black plastic clamp around the intake right next to the cylinder it is applicable to it. If the clamp is of steel construction then you should be ok.

B0600023
SERVICE

*537 43 88-01*
*compl 537 25 13-02
English 1 (1)

SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP,
Partition wall and clamp for intake system,
2006-03

The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall.

The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.
The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.

Full replaceability prevails.
Introduced from serial number:
357XP 061100201
359 061100001
353 061100001
346XP 061100001

New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark
537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part
537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part

Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

[SawTroll]

I like it with 16" 3/8 7T and full chisel.  Since you need a new bar and chains, check the drum and replace the sprocket to 3/8's and your on your way.

Yep, but try an 8-pin as well, and see what works best for your applications!   

[John Mc]

Cut4Fun -Thanks for the info on the plastic clamp. My saw has that. Is it an expensive replacement? (for either parts or labor). I'm wondering if it's worth asking the shop to replace it while it's in there anyway... or at least if they've got it opened up to that point already.

SawTroll -I was assuming I needed the torque for hardwood cutting, so was thinking 7-pin. Am I off in this thinking? I don't own a clutch removal tool, so making the swap from 7 to 8 pin would mean a trip back to the shop. Unless I get off my butt and order the tool.

John Mc

[Rocky_J]

By 'clutch removal tool', do you mean an old screwdriver and a hammer, along with some spare starter cord to use as a piston stop? Do some reading in some of the older threads, unless you are completely mechanically inept then you probably already have what you need and the ability to do it yourself.

[John Mc]

Have some basic mechanical skills, but far from what some of you guys here are capable of. I wasn't sure if I'd really screw something up by hammering on it. I do have an impact wrench, and was figuring on just using that to remove it... but that would take the tool, I think. I'll try the screwdriver, and see how it goes.

Still curious as to what kinds of applications I'd want to run a 7 vs 8 tooth sprocket on a 357xp with a 16" bar.

John Mc

[Ed]

I think it's set up pretty good right now.  Maybe drop back to a 16" bar if you prefer it over the 18"
You really could go either way on the chain pitch, 3/8 would work fine too.  It would be a personal preference choice.

Is one set-up more suited to hardwoods, or more suited to larger or smaller diameters than the other?

In hardwoods the isn't much difference, the .325 is a little faster.
I run both .325 & 3/8 pitch on my 254xp. The 254 is about 1/2 hp less than your saw. With the .325 pitch chain, the saw is a screamer! It never misses a beat, even with the 16" bar buried in Oak.
I bought the 3/8 pitch & 18" bar to use on Softwoods (Cottonwood & Aspen). When cutting in softwood the .325 pitch chain doesn't have enough chip clearance, it loads up in between teeth and bogs the saw down. The 3/8 chain works better up to around 10-12" then its starts to load up also, thats when the full skip chain goes on. Plenty of chip clearance until the bar is buried, the saw still is running at full rpm with no bog.

Ed

[John Mc]

Thanks for all of the input.

I did come up with one other question. The saw has what appears to be an automatic compression release. There is a hose attached to where I'd expect the the manually set release button to be. The hose runs down and attaches somewhere lower on the saw.

I've never run a saw with this set-up before. Are this things reliable? I don't see them on the new saws. I assume they went to the push button for a reason. Should I be looking at converting it to the push button compression release? If so, how much is involved in this?

John Mc

[SawTroll]

By 'clutch removal tool', do you mean an old screwdriver and a hammer, along with some spare starter cord to use as a piston stop? Do some reading in some of the older threads, unless you are completely mechanically inept then you probably already have what you need and the ability to do it yourself.

Agree, but I prefere a slightly blunt chisel to the screwdriver....

....and I never needed a piston stop on the 353 or 346.....

[SawTroll]

.....
Still curious as to what kinds of applications I'd want to run a 7 vs 8 tooth sprocket on a 357xp with a 16" bar.

John Mc

8-pin, at least for limbing and smaller stuff, but you really need to try both..........

I believe I use the 8-pin and 15" bar about 80% of the time on my 361, in the slow-grown birch we have here.

[Cut4fun]

John Mc, I was chasing a air leak in my 357 and yesterday replaced the plastic intake clamp set up with another one and the saw was fine again. So if you have a chance to get the updated set up get it. Its just a matter of time before the plastic clamp warps and creates a seal leak.

If you go with 3/8 put a 7T on it and dont look back. 325 put a 8T which is real close to a 3/8 7T. 

 

[John Mc]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I'm going with a 7T and 3/8 to start with. I am going to take SawTroll's advice, and pick up an 8T as well, so I can see for myself what the difference is.

John Mc

[SawTroll]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I'm going with a 7T and 3/8 to start with. I am going to take SawTroll's advice, and pick up an 8T as well, so I can see for myself what the difference is.

John Mc

Rims are cheap, but you may need a different drum, with the large 7-spline to use an 8-pin 3/8".

7x3/8" is the only size that is easily availiable for both small and large 7-spline.

If you have the large 7-spline drum, the smallesr .325 rim that will fit is the 9-pin.........

[Rocky_J]

I don't think a saw in that size will adequately pull an 8 pin 3/8". I've owned and run a slew of saws both stock and ported, and I wouldn't run an 8 pin 3/8" sprocket on anything smaller than a ported 372XP. The smaller saws just don't have the torque to pull that high of a gear and it will pull them down out of their optimal operating range. There's a very good reason why the manufacturers don't put the large spline drum on 60cc chainsaws. 

[SawTroll]

I don't think a saw in that size will adequately pull an 8 pin 3/8". I've owned and run a slew of saws both stock and ported, and I wouldn't run an 8 pin 3/8" sprocket on anything smaller than a ported 372XP. The smaller saws just don't have the torque to pull that high of a gear and it will pull them down out of their optimal operating range. There's a very good reason why the manufacturers don't put the large spline drum on 60cc chainsaws. 

I see your point, but they do on the MS361, it is the standard size there - with recommended rim sizes 3/8x7, 3/8x8 and .325x9 (user manual).

3/8x8 is cool in smaller wood, at least on the German made Euro version......

[Cut4fun]

Rocky I know what you are saying  .

Most people think by the seat of their pants, feel that the chain speed with a 8T that they are cutting faster. But when you throw a stop watch on there and you then find out the 7T is really quicker in the cuts.
I have tested this with my muffler modded stock stihl 361 (I used to own) and a woods ported 357 woods ported 5000 and the 7T was always quicker.
Seat of the pants i would have guessed 8T was quicker, but using video and a stop watched proved the seat of the pants feel was wrong.

All of my under 70cc saws run 7T now no exceptions.

[John Mc]

Cut4Fun -  what size and species of wood were you cutting on those? SawTroll was talking about the 8T possibly working better on smaller stuff and limbing. I've never done any comparisons, pretty much always run what came stock for a sprocket. It does make sense, though, that faster chain speed might get you something in situations where torque is not a major concern (i.e. smaller stuff and limbing). For cutting large hardwoods, I would think the higher torque of a 7T might be better, at least on the smaller saws.

I'm mainly cutting firewood, so I'm cutting that trunk into 16" lengths, not log-length. That's why I leaned to the 7T to start with. If I were felling and limbing, the balance of cutting small diameters and large shifts a bit, and I might have been inclined to start out with the 8T and see where that leads me.

This is just thinking about it. I have no experience running a 7T vs an 8T on the same saw.  I yield to those who have actually tried it. Hopefully, I'll be one of those who has seen the difference for himself before too long.

John Mc

[Cut4fun]

6" - 9" size limbs, Ash, Oak, Maple, Poplar, Spruce. You have to remember different operators operate the saws different. That could make a difference if mattered, not only wood types.

[SawTroll]

6" - 9" size limbs, Ash, Oak, Maple, Poplar, Spruce. You have to remember different operators operate the saws different. That could make a difference if mattered, not only wood types.

Sounds like 3/8x8 territory, on a 60cc saw......

[John Mc]

Just got my 357xp back from the shop. New 16" bar, 3/8" pitch chain, 7T. I had him give it the once over and tune it while it was in. He didn't find any problems.

I did wonder about one thing. The max recommended engine RPM is 14,000. He mentioned that he tuned the saw for lower RPMs than that (I think he said 12,??? - can't remember the exact number).  I assume he set the high speed mixture richer to slow it down like this. What would be the reason for that? Is he just afraid I'll burn it up running at something closer to 14,000? It seems like I'm giving up some of the capability of the saw with it tuned like this. However, if that will give longer life, I'll live with it. I'm used to a Jonsered 2152, so even de-tuned, this 357xp should be a lot quicker.

John Mc

[SawTroll]

Just got my 357xp back from the shop. New 16" bar, 3/8" pitch chain, 7T. I had him give it the once over and tune it while it was in. He didn't find any problems.

I did wonder about one thing. The max recommended engine RPM is 14,000. He mentioned that he tuned the saw for lower RPMs than that (I think he said 12,??? - can't remember the exact number).  I assume he set the high speed mixture richer to slow it down like this. What would be the reason for that? Is he just afraid I'll burn it up running at something closer to 14,000? It seems like I'm giving up some of the capability of the saw with it tuned like this. However, if that will give longer life, I'll live with it. I'm used to a Jonsered 2152, so even de-tuned, this 357xp should be a lot quicker.

John Mc

I guess the saw is run in, as it needed a new bar - no good reason to set it much below 14000rpm then.......

[Ed]

What troll said. Kick it up to 14000 and let it rip!
A saw is designed for max power and efficiency at the rated rpm, IMO it's harder on it to run it slow.

Ed

[John Mc]

Yes, it's a 2005 model by the serial number. The chain that came with it had been ground down to the point where the teeth were not much more than triangles, so I'm guessing it's well run in. (Though appears in good shape.)

I haven't really developed the "ear" for setting the mixture without a tach yet. Is this something that can be set safely without a tach by someone more experienced than I am, or do I need to bring it back in? If it can be done safely without the tach, I think I need to see and hear it done a time or two before trying it on my own. Maybe I'm just being too cautious, but I'm not happy at the thought of major repair bills, or buying a new one if I screw things up badly.

John Mc

[Ed]

Good info here.... http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm

There is a .wav file about halfway down the page that you can listen to.

I'm guessing your saw has limiters on the carb screws, you can lean it up a little, but it will have to be adjusted by someone with the proper tools to remove the limiters.

Cutting off the limiter stops is also an option..................

Ed

[John Mc]

Trimming the limiters on my 2152 wasn't too tough. I didn't remove them, just trimmed them a bit so I could richen it up a bit after swapping to a non-cat muffler. I had that one checked at the shop after I adjusted the mixture... he said I got it pretty close.

Thanks for the Madsens link. I had seen that somewhere before, but lost it. That's a handy link to have for saw tuning rookies like me. Most of my efforts over the past 5 years or so have been focused on learning to operate it and fell trees safely. I did manage to learn how to sharpen it pretty well (at least with the round file... I'm not ready to mess with square ground), and do basic bar maintenance. So far, most of the tuning I've left to the shop.

John Mc

[John Mc]

Maybe I just need to get off my butt, buy a tach, and learn how to do it right.

John Mc

[Cut4fun]

If tuning by ear, turn to  4 stroke burble then turn to where it just clears up firewood setting IMO.

Tack set that sucker on 14k and smile. Just keep a eye on the plug, to rich is better then to lean cutting firewood with continuous cuts.

Amicks has a good tach and .5 sec fast. The new stihl ones are to slow 1.5 sec refresh rates. If you can find a stihl edt-5 grab it no longer made. The cheapie $24 tachs have a refresh rate even slower at 2.5 sec. They work but scare me.

Get you a .5 sec refresh rate take like this. http://www.amickssuperstore.com/DTI_2_Cycle_Two_Stroke_Tachometer_Tach_p/dti%20tech-tach%20tt-20k%20tach.htm

[John Mc]

Thanks for the link, Cut4Fun. I ordered one. I figured it's about time I learned how to use one, and it may get some use among the landowner cooperative I'm involved with.

Do you set the RPMs with the bar and chain attached, or just the powerhead alone? I've always been told to avoid revving up the chainsaw without a bar and chain installed. But I thought I saw somewhere that the specs for max recommended RPM are with nothing on the powerhead.

John Mc

[sawguy21]

Best to run it with the bar and chain attached as in real world conditions. There is minimal drag at no load with them on.

[Cut4fun]

Bar and chain here also.

[John Mc]

Thanks for all the tips, guys. I just might get a chance to play work with it this weekend.

John Mc

[RSteiner]

I have the older 257 with a 16" bar and the 3/8 pitch chain on mine.  Even after 11 years of use the saw still cuts like a champ. 

Randy

[John Mc]

I got to use the saw today. It's a little shorter on power than I expected. I'm hoping that this is due to it being tuned for about 12,500 RPM rather than 14,000. I haven't retuned it yet... figured I'd wait for the tach to show up in the mail first, rather than trusting my ear. It also has a factory-new Husqvarna 3/8 chisel chain (I assume that's just a re-badged Oregon chain?). Have people found the sharpening job when new out of the box to be pretty good on these chains, or can you usually do a better job yourself? I've gotten pretty good at hand sharpening with a file holder, and the appropriate tool for checking the depth gauges, but haven't checked this on e over closely yet.

I'm still wondering about the black rubber hose that comes out where you'd expect the compression release button to be. The hose attaches back to to the saw down lower. I was told that this is an automatic compression release -- no need to press the button first. It just seems like something else to cause troubles. Anyone know how reliable they are? I'm guessing they had problems, since the new saws all have the buttons. If what I have is a problem, is there much involved in converting to the button-style compression release?

John Mc

[Stephen Alford]

Hi John, the problem I had with that hose, it got a hole worn in it from rubbing on the motor. When it happened the sound changed slightly and when I finished the twitch the saw was toast. Sucked dirt directly into the engine.  Went back to the old style on the next saw.  Stephen

[Urbicide]

You can change out the automatic de-comp to a manual one. If your dealer can not help you out then call Bailey's. They are good folks.

[SawTroll]

It also has a factory-new Husqvarna 3/8 chisel chain (I assume that's just a re-badged Oregon chain?). Have people found the sharpening job when new out of the box to be pretty good on these chains, or can you usually do a better job yourself? I've gotten pretty good at hand sharpening with a file holder, and the appropriate tool for checking the depth gauges, but haven't checked this on e over closely yet.

It is rebadged Oregon, and they usually are pretty sharp out of the box - a stroke or two with a file to clean up transport damage isn't out of line though.

Some times the rakers are too high - check with a raker guide!

[John Mc]

You were right, SawTroll. The rakers were a bit high. I took them down using the gauge, and it helped. The cutting teeth weren't too bad (I'd only made a few cuts since new, and that was in clean wood). I touched them up anyway, and it made quite a difference.

The tach I ordered is on back-order, so I still haven't retuned it to get the RPMs up. That should help a bit too.

Urbicide... I'll look into the manual de-comp you mentioned. They're not too expensive, IIRC. I just may swap it out. I don't want to run into the problem Stephen had.

John Mc

[Cut4fun]

Remember to seal and plug that extra hole left on the side of Cly good. $13 for a manual de-comp button.  Mine was switched over and it was a 04 and I bought it in 06 like new.  I didn't realize it was till the cylinder was off the other day doing a repair.


I had some brand new Oregon I was using the other day with a 084. The raker's were so high it was just riding on the wood and I had to push to get it to cut. I put the 025 raker guide on it and all is well and she feeds like it was suppose to. I bet the raker's were near 020 from the factory on this loop.

[Cut4fun]

John Mc,  UP DATE  on the plastic clamp and getting the warranty covered new one for replacement.

It took over a year to find the freaking air leak I knew it had, turned out the plastic clamp on my 357 was leaking and why it wasn't running up to par for awhile now, which I knew before the spring gtg when it also was spraying fuel during my cut because a hole in the line decided to show up that day (It was still good enough to beat the closest other racer with a 361 bragging how he almost beat my injured and not running right 357  ).

A friend happen to have a extra old style plastic intake for the saw laying around and installed it and wallah, no more leak. Thanks.

Anyhow you have to take the saw with serial number and the month and year you purchased it  . No receipt was needed thank goodness.

They ordered me a complete updated intake for the 357 FREE of charge and even gave me the old part back. I think me and this new dealer in my area is going to get along. I bought stuff I didn't need because he was so helpful and got right on the phone with husqvarna rep.

[John Mc]

Cut4Fun -

Thanks for keeping me posted.

You're having better luck than I am. I took my Jonsered 2152 to my local dealer for a carb rebuild. I noticed I had the plastic clamp and asked him about replacing it. Unfortunately, it appears mine is not covered under the recall/service bulletin. It seems some of the saws in my year were made with, and some without the plastic clamp. But according to my dealer, none of my model year are covered. He did a pressure check, and mine is not leaking (yet). I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

My 357 has the plastic clamp as well. The Husky dealer in my area didn't seem to know what I was talking about with the clamp problems. It might be time for me to find a new dealer? I'm assuming since I bought this one used, that I'm not going to get any kind of warranty coverage on it.

John Mc

[John Mc]

Remember to seal and plug that extra hole left on the side of Cly good. $13 for a manual de-comp button.  Mine was switched over and it was a 04 and I bought it in 06 like new.  I didn't realize it was till the cylinder was off the other day doing a repair.

I haven't poked around that hose yet. I figured I'd wait until the de-comp valve I ordered shows up. What do you use to seal that extra hole? I assume it's threaded, isn't it?

I had some brand new Oregon I was using the other day with a 084. The raker's were so high it was just riding on the wood and I had to push to get it to cut. I put the 025 raker guide on it and all is well and she feeds like it was suppose to. I bet the raker's were near 020 from the factory on this loop.

My rakers were probably close to .020 as well. Seems odd, but I guess if they are going to err, they'd rather be off in that direction than take them down too far.

[Cut4fun]

I took a copy of the post I made for the dealer to see. He wanted to keep a copy for his files and called the husky rep. I will post again and you can copy it for them. It has the saws listed and serial numbers affected listed in it. It is NO COST to the dealers it is all covered by husky. The rep even said they are paying for top end rebuilds that come back to  the leaky intake seal. Good Luck.

[Cut4fun]

Mine had a thread small bolt with red permatex sealer used.

Repost of plastic intake clamp to show your dealer. Print and take with you.

Service Bulletin for 357XP, 359, 353, 346XP
This service bulletin is not new. I thought that there might be some out there who were not aware of it so here it is. If your saw has a black plastic clamp around the intake right next to the cylinder it is applicable to it. If the clamp is of steel construction then you should be ok.

B0600023
SERVICE

*537 43 88-01*
*compl 537 25 13-02
English 1 (1)

SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP,
Partition wall and clamp for intake system,
2006-03

The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall.

The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.
The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.

Full replaceability prevails.
Introduced from serial number:
357XP 061100201
359 061100001
353 061100001
346XP 061100001

New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark
537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part
537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part

Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

[John Mc]

Thanks Cut4Fun. I had that service bulletin from your previous post. This time, I'll bring it with me to the dealer. I assume the 06 in the serial numbers you listed is the model year. So it would be saws made before this that had the problem (mine is an 05).

I'd like to get this replaced on both my Jonsered 2152 and my Husky 357. Hopefully I'll get some help from my dealer on this (I did buy a brush saw and two chainsaws from him, though the 357 I bought used from an individual).

John Mc

[Cut4fun]

Any serial number before the one posted is affected and probably still has the plastic type clamp. If he tells you different he is just shrugging you off and dont want  deal with it.

[John Mc]

Is there a place on the internet you can download these type of things, or do you have to be a dealer to get them? I'd like to find a copy that applies to my Jonsered 2152.

[John Mc]

Just when you thought this thread was finally dead...

I just got my tach in the mail today. I was going to try tuning my 357XP today. I've got some good directions (which someone here pointed me to) on the steps to go through to get the idle speed, idle mixture and high speed mixture fine tuned.

Before diving in, I downloaded a manual from the Husqvarna site. I wasn't sure which one applied, but I'm looking at one of the 2005 revisions. It show the recommended idle speed (2700 RPM), but does not show anything for high speed RPMs. I'm not sure where I picked up the 14,000 RPM spec I mentioned earlier... I can't find it now. I know others mentioned "set it for 14,000 and go", but I thought I'd double check first, since they may have been going off the number I threw out.

Is 14,000 the number I should shoot for? If I'm doing a lot of bucking hardwoods for firewood, should I run a bit on the richer side of that setting? Any other thoughts or pointers appreciated. This is my first time tuning a saw with a tach. When I've had to do it in the past, I always made sure I had someone check my settings before using it much.

Are service and parts manuals available for download on these saws? All I can find are the owners manuals, which aren't so helpful.

Thanks

John Mc

[beenthere]

I followed Joe_Indie's suggestion for setting the saw (Stihl specific maybe).  Nothing about needing to know rpms, high or low.

Only for a moment when sawing wood do the rpms max out, as the saw is in the wood cutting most of the time.

Not saying it isn't important for tuning, but keep wondering where it really is important. 

I'll be interested in further discussion, as it's been interesting so far. 

Here is a quote of what I saved from Joe's post.
   Setting the Carb on Stihl saw
Make sure the air filter is clean before you do a carb adjustment. Limited air flow could cause a fuel enrichment.
Start up the saw and let it warm up for a minute or so.
You might need to have a hand on the throttle or the saw may die in idle.
To set the L screw.
1. Turn in the bottom screw (LA) till you get the saw to a fast idle with your hands off the throttle.
2. Now turn in the L screw till the chain starts to turn at idle.
3. Back off the LA screw till this stops.
4. Now rev up to the maximum, while there, apply the brake and remove your hand from the throttle.(This should be done as a single motion)
When you do this the idle should drop a little bit and then come back to normal.
In case it drops down too far and dies, turn in the LA screw a full turn and back off the L screw a little bit.
Start it up, back off the LA screw if required.
Repeat the bit with the brake.

When you have done all that your L screw setting is completed.

To set your H screw, you will need to have the screwdriver in the H screw slot
Rev the saw to full throttle, then close down the H screw to the point that the engine speed increases, then back off from that point till the engine starts to 4-stroke (blubber or has a 'puttering' noise).
When you have done this correctly, the H screw is set.

If you find it difficult to set the H screw with this method, try this:

After you have set the L screw, @ full throttle, slowly turn in the H screw.
The engine speed will increase at a point, (note this point).
Turn it in further, if there is no further increase, release the throttle and back off the H screw to the noted point. From here back off the H screw by 5 minutes (similar to how you would set the minute hand of a clock or watch slower by 5 minutes). That's it.

In case the engine speed increases even beyond the initially noted point, although you could back off 5 minutes from that  point to give you maximum performance, its safer to do the backing off from the initial point.

[Cut4fun]

Nothing fancy for carb tuning.
For firewood cutting I have always followed this Madsen's carb tuning link.
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
I think stock the 357 is 14K wot, firewood cutting go for the burble and just a hair past clean up sound. Just keep a eye on your plug, thats the true tell all.

[Urbicide]

357XP / 359

IPL

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/usa/2003/I03000/I0301129.pdf

Workshop Manual


http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HWEN/HWEN2000/HWEN2000_1019117-26.pdf

 

[Cut4fun]

Got the new parts. Easy fix. Pull your carb and intake, remove the old leaky part with 2 new redesigned parts. half hour at best and no cost to you. *compl 537 25 13-02