Author Topic: A day of walnut cutting (Read 3964 times)

sawwood · « **on:** June 23, 2003, 08:32:22 pm »

Here are some shots of the sawer i use to cut up walnut
and oak. Ron sure does a good job but is seems i do all
the work.

I sure injoy going out to the mill and just for
git what is bad in the world. I will take the wood up to
Larry Coppas to have him kiln dry it. We will be using the
wood to make new Vanitys for both of the bath rooms we
are remodling.

Sawwood

Norm · « **Reply #1 on:** June 24, 2003, 04:59:52 am »

Nice looking chunk of walnut ya got there sawwood, now you could have strapped it to the top of your jeep and let us practice on it when you were here.

I know what you mean about forgetting your troubles when sawing, even though it's hard work I find it really helps me unwind after a long week of bs at work.

Bibbyman · « **Reply #2 on:** June 24, 2003, 06:38:27 am »

What is Ron doing in the third picture? Trying to get his hand caught in the log turner?

ElectricAl · « **Reply #3 on:** June 24, 2003, 07:01:18 am »

Wow, a TimberKing.

It's nice to see different brands of saws once in a while.

Bibbyman · « **Reply #4 on:** June 24, 2003, 08:14:55 am »

I wondered what that was. Why does it need all them posts to hold up the sawhead?

We tried to get Ron to switch hats but he kept the one he had.

Larry · « **Reply #5 on:** June 24, 2003, 10:02:43 am »

I saw Ron in TK headquarters couple of months ago. Think he made a comment about those mills that don't have enough legs to hold their heads up but can't be positive.

At least I'm glad to see them picking on little logs this time. Last time Sawwood brought lumber up to dry the DanG boards were mostly 11' long 16" and wider. They out weighed me and I had to put em on sticks.

sawwood · « **Reply #6 on:** June 24, 2003, 05:27:31 pm »

Bibbyman Ron is putting a weg againce the log to help hold
it up as it was off the bed. as he held it in place i moved the
log holder in place. He seems to think that 4 post will help
hold the saw head better. I have lloked at a few saws and i
think WM has the best one for what i would like to have in
a saw. Larry you asked for smaller lumber and i made sure
we cut the walnut samller for you.

Sawwood

Will_Johnson · « **Reply #7 on:** June 25, 2003, 08:31:43 am »

Man oh man, Sawwood. At first I was so glad to see these nice photos, and then you follow up with a dis on the good ol' TK mill that's cut so much wood for you. Like kicking your old faithful mule! After all the times you've been in here at our seminars, what a slap in the face!

Actually, Bibby, Ron did keep his Wood-Mizer hat. I've got it in my "scalp" collection along with not a few black and orange jackets!

Ron does quite a good business in the Kansas City area. His mill has over 2,000 hours on his mill. ...I keep telling him he needs a new one. He tells me if we hadn't built it so well the first time around he might consider it. But as things stand he can't see why he should get a new one when his old mule is still pulling so hard (in spite of the occasional kick from Sawwood...)

Bibbyman · « **Reply #8 on:** June 25, 2003, 09:14:51 am »

Will,

Maybe you need to make Ron a deal he can't refuse on one of your new bigger 2400 models coming out? Then Sawwood can tell us how it does.

Also, looks like the next time we see Ron at one of the forest industry shows, he should have an extra TK hat for the WM guys.

He wouldn't give up his TK hat at the Springfield, MO show because he said he had it broke in just right. Can't argue with that. It takes 3-6 months to brake a hat in just right.

Will_Johnson · « **Reply #9 on:** June 25, 2003, 09:25:33 am »

Bibby, if you'd wear it I'll put a TK hat in the mail today. Only question is, do you want Camo or Black. And oh yeah, do you want a new one or one that's already broke in?

Bibbyman · « **Reply #10 on:** June 25, 2003, 09:46:48 am »

Sure, make it a new camo.

Just don't tell Ron and the next time I see him coming at one of the Forsety shows, I'll put it on. He won't know what to think.

I'll probably give the break in duty to my youngest son. For some reason, he glums onto every new hat that come in the house and wears it until another the next one comes in.

Furby · « **Reply #11 on:** June 25, 2003, 03:08:15 pm »

Hey Will,
If you all can give me a REALLY GOOD deal I might just take Ron's old mill off your hands

sawwood · « **Reply #12 on:** June 25, 2003, 05:31:02 pm »

Sorry Will but your timber king is a great saw and Ron has
cut a lot of BF for me. The one thing if i may say so,the
scale board could be better as Ron does a lot of adjustment
befor he git it on the mark. The mill is one tought unit as
Ron has put it to the max and it still working good. Are
you going to be at the Midwest Forest Show in Sept ?

Ron and I are going down on Saterday so Bibbyman if
you are there we will look you up.

Sawwood

Bibbyman · « **Reply #13 on:** June 25, 2003, 05:37:47 pm »

I'll be there if I'm still kickin'

Figured out a new use for the TK hat. I can put it on and nobody will recognize me. I could rob a bank and people will say; "It looked[/i] like Bibbyman but he was wearing a TimberKing hat so it couldn't have been him."

Tom · « **Reply #14 on:** June 25, 2003, 05:42:45 pm »

That's a plus with the old mill Sawwood. The up/down motor and sheaves are right in front of you and as you drop or raise the head you can reach out there and grab hold of the pulley to stop it where you want. You can also give it a lick to turn it some to rais or drop a fractio without turning the motor back on again.

Lots of these niceties of simplicity go away with "improvement"

Bibbyman · « **Reply #15 on:** June 25, 2003, 05:54:03 pm »

Tom, are you talking about the older Wood-Mizer mills?

I've seen many of the older mills run like that. And a couple of newer Wood-Mizer ran that way by older operators by removing the shielding.

That may be the case with the TK too. Maybe not because the head could be "down the track" from the operator.

I suspect Ron is being very cautions in making his drops. If you compare the manual process with a mill with computer setworks then it will look slow - no matter what brand or color.

Tom · « **Reply #16 on:** June 25, 2003, 06:48:52 pm »

Yeah, I was talking about the older 'woodmizers.

I guess I would qualify for the older operators too if I had a newer Woodmizer.

I don't think you could stop a TimberKing like that. As I remember the one in Folkston has acme threads. Now, that's a pretty finite controller.

Setworks can be faster because you quit counting and just push buttons. The times that mine used to work I would sleep better at night and not go home nearly as tired either.

sawwood · « **Reply #17 on:** June 25, 2003, 07:50:14 pm »

Tom and Bibbyman the TK has a scale on the frame and a
line on the head. you drop down the head and aline the line
to the next mark on the scale. Ron makes diff scales for
what he is cutting. You have to bring the head all the way
back to see the marks. What would you say was the most
handy scale to have on a mill ?

Sawwood

Tom · « **Reply #18 on:** June 25, 2003, 08:06:39 pm »

What he has works just fine. It is difficult to do when you have someone talking to you but the fastest way is to use one scale (the true scale) and keep track of your drops in your head. That way you can switch from one thickness to another. Most mills have true scales incremented in 32nds and that gets awfully confusing. When you realize that your blade takes out or wanders around in about a 16th then measuring on the eighth's is real convenient. Sometimes we all get a little anal about the accuracy of a board when it is going to shrink when it dries anyway. If you over-cut a sixteenth (Use only the eighth marks) your boards will still be alike, you will have shrinking room and planing room and it's not difficult to keep track of where you are or want to be.

Here is a little secret. Now don't laugh please till you hear me out.

Have you ever heard someone who doesn't know how to read a tape measure say "one and two of those little marks"?

Well, if you will do that instead of mentally counting 29 and 3/8's and I want to drop an inch and a half. and then the kerf......let's see...?? ??

You have to remember where you were regardless.

Say to yourself, "I want to drop one inch and one mark". Remember where you were so that when you bring the sawhead back you can say " one....and one".

Dropping one and three gives you 5/4. Dropping 1 and 5 gives you 6/4. Do you want to fatten the board up? Then add another eighth (mark). quit thinking in things that are confusing.

Who cares if your not calling it three quarters and a half and one eighth or a quarter. It's just another of those little marks.

The most difficult part is remembering which "little mark" you were on and dropping the increment of the board, as in one inch. Then just add the little mark or a couple if you need them.

Bibbyman · « **Reply #19 on:** June 25, 2003, 08:12:00 pm »

The best I've every used it the Wood-Mizer Accuset. Just buy a WM with that option.

I'm sure TK and Baker and the others all have some version of a computer setworks. I don't know if they have all the features of the Accuset. With the Accuset you can custom pre-program 16 patterns, 16 Auto ups and downs and 4 go to's.

You can input and adjust the kerf so when you want a board 1-1/16", you'll get 1-1/16". Changed to a blade with a different kerf and change the kerf setting - get the same thinckness board.

Mills with a scale work just fine weather power up/down or not. They just take longer to twink to get on the mark on the scale and the kerf is somewhat of a guess. Then you'll be close'nuff for who it's for but not "dead nuts" on.

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Author Topic: A day of walnut cutting (Read 3964 times)