Strapping Kit

[alpmeadow]

Golden Greetings
We have been milling cedar and now have off/side cuts of 12, 14 & 16 foot 1 and 2 inch material sorted from 4, 6, 8 to 10 inch wide.  Is it a good idea to purchase a metal strapping kit (1/2 inch metal bands) to select, sticker,  strap and store this material until  we can reuse or  sell this?
We will store off ground under lumber cover until we have storage built.  I prefer not to cut any to smaller size until we have a use or market for it.
Thanks for your input.
Cheers 

[Tom Sawyer]

That sounds like a good idea to me.  I use the poly banding from Baileys.  It's easier to use than steel and quite strong.

Tom

[backwoods sawyer]

As the wood dries and shrinks, the stacks become loose. If you have to move it much between now and the time you use, or sell it, they will tend to want to fall apart, and after picking up a couple of theses stacks that have not been banded you will appreciate having some sort of strapping whether metal or poly.

[alpmeadow]

Thanks for input.  I take it that a poly strapping kits are preferred as it won't rust and stain the wood like steel strapping, however as the wood drys and shrinks, it may have to be restrapped.  Our idea was to strap it now to minimize bowing, twisting, and cupping while this lumber was stored until reused or sold.

So the alternative, is to stack and sticker for loose storage to air dry and minimize stain and rot.  Later it can be selected, recut, etc  then strapped for shipping as necessary.  Its a challenge to keep it simple.  The markets for logs is limited or too low, plus high hauling costs means it is better to let the trees grow for now.

So far we have decked the logs(cedar, pine and fir) full length for storage and mill only custom orders(parttime only, just hit 200 hours on the WM mill after 3 years, still lots to learn).

Cheers
alpmeadow   

[jpgreen]

One of the neatest setups I've seen, and I don't remember if it was here or not, was I beams used as your stack base with a chain loop welded on each end.

A binder or come-a-long is thrown over the stickered stack and tightened down. You could run plastic or cardboard under the chain or cable to protect the wood.

Wish I had could find some I beam cheap.. 

[james]

try a 4x4 with eye bolts thru each end and a winch strap over the bundle then just keep tightening it as the lumber dries
james

[Tom Sawyer]

The poly strapping would be easy to tighten up if you left a long tail at the end.  Maybe steel would be too.  One thing about poly is that it doesn't spring back when you cut it like steel under tension will do.  Also a lot harder to cut yourself on an edge with the poly.

Tom

[Warren]

I have used steel strapping, Bailey's woven strapping and finally settled on Cord Strap poly strapping.  The Cordstrap works the same as the Bailey's woven strap with metal buckles, but less cost per foot of material, and not as "stretchy."  For me, as a one man opertaion, the poly banding is faster and much easier to handle. 

If you do use the poly, go ahead and buy one of the "all in one" tensioner tools. (as opposed to just using the metal bar manual tensioner)  With the fancy tensioner, if you leave a long tail on the cut off when you first stack and sticker, you should be able to re-tighten later after drying shrinkage.

-w-

[Bibbyman]

We sawed out a lot of oak lumber for one customer that wanted to stick and stack it for drying.  He asked my about where he could find banding strap and equipment like we have to strap it like we do.  After I told him how much the tools, dispensers, clips and banding cost,  he concluded it was way more than he needed. 

I did make a suggestion that he stop by the Harbor Freight store on his way home and pick up a couple of bulk packs of 1” load binders.  It wouldn’t blow his budget and he could retighten the straps as necessary and re-use them. He thought that was an excellent idea. 

[kderby]

I'll chime in with my satisfaction with Poly Strapping.  I get mine from Uline.  The buckles do allow you to retighten but I use more of the clamps.  The metal seems to pile up in a rusty mess but it can be recycled.  The poly can be recycled or it burns up nicely in a slash pile. 

The set-up cost for decent tools and strapping material is expensive.  Consider the misery of re-stacking lumber.  Also consider the professional look of banded material in an organized yard.  Once boards are are dry, graded and banded it sure is nice to place strapping and a label....done and done well!

Banding is just another cost of doing business....good business. 

KD

[red]

I just heard of a Web Strapping Kit  from

www.kubinecstrapping.com   and Baileys Sells it 

just wondering if anyone has tried it yet

RED

[Brucer]

I just heard of a Web Strapping Kit  from
www.kubinecstrapping.com   and Baileys Sells it 
just wondering if anyone has tried it yet

RED

Yep. I was sold after the first bundle I made.

For the last several years my client would collect the slabs and edgings in half-cord bundles and strap them with half-inch metal strapping. He'd flog these off as cheap firewood.

Now that I'm buying logs myself, I have to deal with waste. I decided to try the Bailey's kit rather than invest in an expensive and heavy steel strapping system. I figured for a $100 it was worth a try. Here's my observations:

1) The manual tightener was intended for square packages rather than round bundles. However, I've been able to get it to work for me on my slab bundles.

2) The 250' rolls of banding are light enough to carry (Bailey's includes a bag) so you can tighten up a load and then cut the strapping. With metal I pretty much had to precut all my straps in the shop, then take them to the site.

3) If you cut the strapping just past the bottom of the manual tool, you'll have enough slack to retighten the load. No extra buckle required -- just pull the strap tighter. With metal you have to have enough overlap to get your tensioning tool in place, re-tighten the load, and add another clip.

4) The Bailey's kit literally gives you everything you need. Just carry the bag to the job site and go to it .

Am I going to stick with the system? For sure. I expect I'll buy the buckles by the 1000 as there's a significant saving. But I'm going to keep buying the 250' rolls of banding -- the 2 x 1650' rolls only save you half a cent per foot and are a heck of a lot heavier.

[CLL]

the good thing about the web strapping you can tighten it over and over. I have found you can also take the straps loose and reuse it.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

Ive allways used 1/2 steel strapping and wouldnt use anything else but steel  Ive used all sorts of strapping systyms over the years with varing succsess  fairenough it costs more at the start but it works and works well in any situation i have come across  the web and clip systyms have their place with smaller producers and people who use them once in a blue moon and at $100 for a kit they seem pretty good value 

Reguards Chris

[PineNut]

I have been using the strapping and buckles and I like it. I do not have any heavy-duty requirements so I have been using 1/2 inch strapping and buckles. For any heavy-duty use, you would need a heavier strap. By leafing a long tail on it, you can retighten and reuse the straps and buckles. Every time you cut one off, you will lose about 2 inches of the strap.  Bought mine from Uline and it cost me about $160 delivered for 1000 buckles, tensioner and 3900 ft of strap.

[WildDog]

I use 3/4 inch steel strap, if it is green timber I intend using for myself I often strap with ratchet tie downs then with the steel strapping as it seasons, if I am feeling lazy (happening more of often these days) I have hardwood wedges that I hammer under the strapping to take up the tension on stuff I am going to use my self.

[Brucer]

I've been using my poly strapping kit from Baileys for a couple of weeks now, and it is definitely better than the 1/2" steel strapping I used to use. I can tension the straps up way past the point where the steel would break.

I'm using it make slab bundles for firewood and two of my customers like to pop the bundles apart right in the yard and hand-load their trailers. I got them to cut the straps right beside the buckles. Then I salvaged the buckles and straps and re-used them. What I did was use a second buckle and put a very short piece of new strap to bridge the gap. Then when a customer wants to break the bundle open in the yard, I get him/her to cut the piece between the buckles.

Even though the buckles bend closed when the straps are tightened, they spring open again when the strap is cut. I've been telling people I will reuse the straps if they return them along with the buckles. I offer to knock a buck off their next bundle for every pair of straps & buckles they return. No one takes the discount, but about 3/4 of the straps have come back so far .

This is turning out way cheaper than the steel strapping system.

[Tripp]

Picked up a a strapping cart with a roll of plastic banding, pneumatic seamless bander, 300 metal clips w/crimper and tightener. Paid $140.00. Feel like I stole it.



Tripp

[Magicman]

You did good !!!  Mine is a cheap set from Harbor Freight.  The box is above the "resharp box" that I am closing.  It won't do what your's will.

 

[Banjo picker]

I'll throw my hat in with the Wild dog from down under...I use 3/4 steel....I bought into the system years a go and have more clips than I will ever use in my life time...but I'll try....I put one strap in the middle of a bundle of crossties, and have seen the loader operator that was taking them off the truck just barely get on that last tie...(25 in a bundle)...I'll stick with the 3/4 steel for what I do...   Tim