372 XP wow

[Old_Hickory]

I went and got it this morning,Came home cut maybe 10 mins with it.Wow is all I can say,Is so much different than my 441.Power wise about same and contrary to what I used tp think.the 372 has more grunt,and even outcut it on top end.AV is pretty much the same.I do notice a louder exhaust tone from the 372.Maybe because not
a EPA saw.The 372 is noticible lighter,and better handing.All in all id rather have the 372.Of course is new  will give more feedback later But as of now 100% satisfied ¢¢¢

[Maineloggerkid]

I've always like my 372xp. Glad your satisfied.

[ladylake]

Just wait untill it gets broken in, I wasn't impressed with my 385xp at first but it really woke up after 8 to 10 tanks.   Steve

[Old_Hickory]

sounds good,

[Old_Hickory]

you know I maybe becoming a Husqvarna fan.I have a 346XP For that size saw it has outcut larger saws,Plus it just a dream to run.Before in say a 6 inch limb my 346
would cut it faster than the 441.But the 372 will cut it faster than the 346. I am just liking the way the Huskies feel in my hand,plus other than noise you never know there running.I picked up a 390 xp and looked at it as they got my 372 ready
I fell in love with it,It did'nt but maybe feel just a tad heavier then the 372

[SawTroll]

I went and got it this morning,Came home cut maybe 10 mins with it.Wow is all I can say,Is so much different than my 441.Power wise about same and contrary to what I used tp think.the 372 has more grunt,and even outcut it on top end.AV is pretty much the same.I do notice a louder exhaust tone from the 372.Maybe because not
a EPA saw.The 372 is noticible lighter,and better handing.All in all id rather have the 372.Of course is new  will give more feedback later But as of now 100% satisfied ¢¢¢

Husky xps usually have a very good top end (above max hp rpms), so no surprices there.

Low end torque isn't allways as impressive, at least not on paper.   

[ladylake]

A 385 or 390 is not one that you would want to lug around much, good for the landing or blocking the big stuff. My 385 with a 28" bar full is a little over 23# on a good scale, I'd guess you 372 would be 19 to 20# with a 20 or 24" bar full. Those few extra pounds make a lot of difference. I can haul around my 50cc 15# saw all day, no problem, pick up the 19 1/2 # 044 for a couple of hours and you sure know you got it, but then I'm not a spring chicken anymore.   Steve

[Old_Hickory]

Steve know what you mean can tell a difference since turned 40

[ladylake]

I think I'm 56, just can't remember for sure.   Steve

[Old_Hickory]

hey Steve what is a good sharpening outfit

[ladylake]

I've got a old Oregon 511(I think) works good for me. I set it so it just touches the tooth face unless I hit a nail or something.  Just remember to keep the rakers low enough to cut good. I made a little slide deal with a wheel above for doing the rakers that keeps them nice and even. They also make a guide for filing rakers with a hand file, I saw them using it at the shop where I get my bandsaw blades, looked like it worked real good.  Steve

[Old_Hickory]

Steve am kinda eyeing the Pfred at baileys

[jokers]

You will probably find your 372 marginally gaining in performance until you get about 10 gallons through it, then you should be good to go for another 5 or 600 gallons before you re-ring, maybe throw in a new piston and wristpin bearing too, if your feeling rich.

[Old_Hickory]

that sounds really good,I'm really impressed by it so far. 1 question how is the best way to grease the needle bearings

[Ironwood]

My nieghbor picked up my 371 when his saw got dull, for fairness his had safety chain and mine full chisel (I keepem REALLY sharp, he will run his dull), let's just say he began to second guess all the years of cutting TONS of wood struggling through the logs. He is still talking about it  , personally I think he has been bitten with the Huskie bug   He just shakes his head in disbelief.

 Ironwood

[jokers]

that sounds really good,I'm really impressed by it so far. 1 question how is the best way to grease the needle bearings

In the clutch? Pop the E clip off, then the drum, then the bearing. Push grease through it all the way around. This bearing is only in service while the saw is idling and will last a long time with very little maintenance.

[Old_Hickory]

Thank you Jokers I will have to get a pair of pliers for the e clip

[rebocardo]

> I will have to get a pair of pliers for the e clip

Put a gloved finger over the clip, put the screw driver end of the wrench into the open hole of the clip and push it off.

To get it back on slide it into the groove, put a gloved finger over the clip, push on the end with the blade lined up, and push it on.

I hardly ever use pliers to remove and put the clip on.

> I'd guess you 372 would be 19 to 20# with a 20 or 24" bar full.

A little bit shy of 18.3 pounds empty with a 28" bar and full skip, about 19# filled. When I get my hands on a 372 again, I will weigh it with a 20" bar. I think I will weigh my 272 once I have it fixed with both a 20" and 28" filled and see what they weigh.

 

[Rocky_J]

If you only grease it when you replace the sprocket, that will be plenty. No need to take it apart to grease it every week, you'll end up with too much grease in the clutch which could create other problems. Leave it alone and look at it in 3-4 months when the sprocket is due for replacement.

[joe_indi]

that sounds really good,I'm really impressed by it so far. 1 question how is the best way to grease the needle bearings

If you have a grease gun there's no need to remove anything.Pump the gun a couple of times in the tiny hole at the end of the crankshaft, the grease is fed directly to the needle bearing.
Remove the e-clip and drum only when you have to clean up inside or turn the rim sprocket around for even wear.

Joe

[SawTroll]

> I will have to get a pair of pliers for the e clip

Put a gloved finger over the clip, put the screw driver end of the wrench into the open hole of the clip and push it off.

To get it back on slide it into the groove, put a gloved finger over the clip, push on the end with the blade lined up, and push it on.

I hardly ever use pliers to remove and put the clip on. ....

Right, but I prefere a smaller screw-driver.

Also keep some spare e-clips, just in case..........

[ladylake]

Steve am kinda eyeing the Pfred at baileys

I coulldn't find a Pfred chain sharpener at Bailys just a thing for keeping a bar rails square. It  looks like the 511 Oregon is kind of spendy, I hear that some of the knockoff models work good but aren't built as well.  The Speed Master 45310 looks decent, made in Italy    Steve

[jokers]

that sounds really good,I'm really impressed by it so far. 1 question how is the best way to grease the needle bearings

If you have a grease gun there's no need to remove anything.Pump the gun a couple of times in the tiny hole at the end of the crankshaft, the grease is fed directly to the needle bearing.
Remove the e-clip and drum only when you have to clean up inside or turn the rim sprocket around for even wear.

Joe

Joe,

This technique is correct for many Huskies and maybe even 372s in India but the 372s in North America have a blind hole in the shaft, it doesn`t go anywhere.

Rebocardo has the right idea, something to hold the E clip captive so it doesn`t go on the lam on you.  Your scrench should be all that you need.

[Old_Hickory]

Thanks guys for the info.Im not going to grease the 372 for awhile,after reading i figured it was time to the 346 xp though

[Old_Hickory]

Steve am kinda eyeing the Pfred at baileys

I coulldn't find a Pfred chain sharpener at Bailys just a thing for keeping a bar rails square. It  looks like the 511 Oregon is kind of spendy, I hear that some of the knockoff models work good but aren't built as well.  The Speed Master 45310 looks decent, made in Italy    Steve

Steve i just looked again it is under files & accessories it is item #17049

[ladylake]

Steve am kinda eyeing the Pfred at baileys

I coulldn't find a Pfred chain sharpener at Bailys just a thing for keeping a bar rails square. It  looks like the 511 Oregon is kind of spendy, I hear that some of the knockoff models work good but aren't built as well.  The Speed Master 45310 looks decent, made in Italy    Steve

That looks like it should work, I never mastered hand fileing, had that Oregon grinder for so long and I'm to old to learn now. How about some of you hand filers what do you think of that guide?    Steve

Steve i just looked again it is under files & accessories it is item #17049

[SawTroll]

Thanks guys for the info.Im not going to grease the 372 for awhile,after reading i figured it was time to the 346 xp though

It is very convenient on the 346xp - nothing has to be dismounted except the clutch cover, take a look at (or preferably in) the user manual........

[Old_Hickory]

Thank you SawTroll  is it same on both versions on the 346 xp

[Rocky_J]

You can easily answer that particular question yourself by looking at your saw. 

(and I know the answer because I own three of them, including one of the new version)

[Old_Hickory]

cool Rocky I bought 1 last yr  but mine is the old version

[TexasTimbers]

Just wait untill it gets broken in, I wasn't impressed with my 385xp at first but it really woke up after 8 to 10 tanks.   Steve

Same thing with my 395xp. I couldn't believe how much power she gained in those first dozen or so. It is noticeable. For a while there I thought there wasn't gonna be just a whole lot of power gain over my 372 but man-o-man that just ain't the case!

[Old_Hickory]

sounds better all the time

[SawTroll]

Thank you SawTroll  is it same on both versions on the 346 xp

Yes!

[Old_Hickory]

something else I really like about the 372 xp  it has real gas and oil caps

[Old_Hickory]

did some more cutting yesterday  really liking the 372   just so much more manuverable then the 441

[Old_Hickory]

I am understanding why it is called the QUEEN of sawa

[Left Coast Chris]

I also run a 372xp and stretched it with a 32" bar.  No problem even ripping full depth.  I do keep it sharp.   

My problem is the 372 is a little heavy for cutting firewood all day.  Since I typically cut limb wood Im thinking of a 16" limbing saw and want to go as light as possible. 

Any suggestions?

[Old_Hickory]

Chris i have a 346 xp also I use to limb with,great great little saw

[Left Coast Chris]

We just got a Tractor Supply Store north of us.  They cary some Huskies....... next time Im in I will pick up the 346 and see how it feels.   Their prices are pretty good too on most things Ive seen.

[Old_Hickory]

Chris it will probably be the larger new edition one mine is the older 45 cc version,
The newer one has a broader power range   there a great saw

[TexasTimbers]

Chris I'll be suprised if they stock a 346xp in tractor Supply. they don't stock them in any of the ones here. They carry homeowner and "rancher" type of saws only here. As was mentioned make sure it's a 50cc although not sure any of the 45's would still be stocked anywhere I guess it is possible.

Don't know if you want to go a tad larger but also consider the MS361. It is only a little more than a pound heavier than the 346xp and what, about a pound and a half lighter than a 372? Better get a clarification from the saw trolls and jokers of the world because the published powerhead weights are not always real world and that's all I know siince I do not own either saw . . . yet haha.

But the 361 for a stocky fellow who is used to lugging a 372 around all day, I would think would be easy in comparison and has quite a bit more power than the 346. Plus you can hang a longer bar on it and fell good sized trees with it. No knock on the 346 of course it is in a lower class. Either saw would be a great choice IMO.

[SawTroll]

We just got a Tractor Supply Store north of us.  They cary some Huskies....... next time Im in I will pick up the 346 and see how it feels.   Their prices are pretty good too on most things Ive seen.

You can't go wrong with the NE346xp - just make sure you get it with Oregon LP or Stihl RSC chain, not the narrow kerf 95VP/H30, that often is standard.

 

[rebocardo]

> want to go as light as possible.

I loved my MS-180c for limbing firewood. With the chain from Baileys it was a nice little saw.

I did upgrade a bit to a MS-250 with an 18", still a little bit too heavy for hours on hours of making branches into firewood, so I may buy a MS-180c again.

[Old_Hickory]

I have used it about 10 hours now  she is really starting to come alive.It will totally rip in the cut now.I kept a log i  had used both the 441 on.The 372  will beat the 441 by almost 2 seconds in the cut.Plus it is lighter and better handling,Oh yea it has real gas and oil caps

[SawTroll]

I have used it about 10 hours now  she is really starting to come alive.It will totally rip in the cut now.I kept a log i  had used both the 441 on.The 372  will beat the 441 by almost 2 seconds in the cut.Plus it is lighter and better handling,Oh yea it has real gas and oil caps

It sure is a nice saw, and the newer caps is better than the older ones - but my arthritis riddled fingers actually prefere the Stihl flip-caps - sort of "wheel-chair caps".........

[sawguy21]

Those flip caps can be a PITA. I have had them come off and dump oil and/or gas on my leg if they are not properly seated.

[Bobcat_pa]

Posted by SawTroll:  "You can't go wrong with the NE346xp - just make sure you get it with Oregon LP or Stihl RSC chain, not the narrow kerf 95VP/H30, that often is standard."

I was planning on getting a NE346xp with a 20" bar and 95VP; less bending and reaching.   Seeing that the NE346xp was a little more weight, I thought the balance would be ok.    Think the NE346xp can do a good job with RSC 20" .325  ?    Knowing the cutter size, I would rather sharpen the RSC than the 95VP.

I have a 372xp and a 441, and sold the 441.  It was a good saw, but did not see one advantage it had over the 372xp.   

[Old_Hickory]

I agree with  you  bobcat.I have had both a 372xp and a 441.I also sold the 441.It was a good saw,But the 372 will outcut it,plus lighter and better handling,372  is  also easier starting,Only advantage the 441  has is  the inboard clutch 

[Bobcat_pa]

Old_Hickory:   both the 372p and 441 have an inboard clutch.   Husky's smaller than the 362xp have the outboard clutch.   

[SawTroll]

Posted by SawTroll:  "You can't go wrong with the NE346xp - just make sure you get it with Oregon LP or Stihl RSC chain, not the narrow kerf 95VP/H30, that often is standard."

I was planning on getting a NE346xp with a 20" bar and 95VP; less bending and reaching.   Seeing that the NE346xp was a little more weight, I thought the balance would be ok.    Think the NE346xp can do a good job with RSC 20" .325  ?    Knowing the cutter size, I would rather sharpen the RSC than the 95VP. ...

20" bars on a 50cc saw is besides my usual thinking - the 95VP actually could make sense on that long a bar - there is only one way to find out, try them all.....

[John Mc]

I was planning on getting a NE346xp with a 20" bar and 95VP; less bending and reaching.   Seeing that the NE346xp was a little more weight, I thought the balance would be ok.    Think the NE346xp can do a good job with RSC 20" .325  ?

I know I'm probably in the minority here, but IMO getting a longer bar to avoid bending and reaching is a false benefit. Working out at the tip of longer bar is tough... you're at the wrong end of a long lever. It tires you more quickly, and puts more strain on your back and arm muscles (and for me, my neck muscles also). I've found it better to use a shorter bar, and bend down with your legs to get low, or take a step closer on those limbs that are up off the ground than to reach way down or way out. Do your cutting as close to the powerhead as possible for minimum strain. If you are limbing on the ground and want to keep your bar out of the dirt, using a longer bar can force you to work that much further out away from the powerhead...

My wife is a physical therapist... she's always after me to use good body mechanics when working. I guess she's getting tired of fixing me when I'm broken. There are good reasons to use a longer bar (cutting down larger diameter trees, for example). In my opinion (an opinion that was probably beaten into my thick skull by my wife), using it to reach further and cut that much further out from where I'm gripping the saw is not one of them.

To each his own, however. I already have enough back and neck problems as it is, and try to avoid pushing things. Someone who is less of a "weekend warrior", and younger or in better shape than I am may not care as much. I just don't bounce back as quickly as I used to. I hate to think what it will be lke when  get another decade or two on me.

John Mc

[Cut4fun]

Well I finally got a brand new Husky 570  and just ran it in some test cuts in 20"-23" spruce, Granted I havent had it in hardwood yet.
. The saw IMO alot more torque then the stock 372 and doesn't rev out like a 372. It has a more usable power band IMO. The only draw back is the extra 1 LB it weighed over a 372.
So all the people that say the 575 at 74cc and the 570 at 68cc dont run, must have not ran them and compared elsewhere from their arm chairs only.

I dont care for the new EPA saws because I like saws that take well to mods. But for a stock saw and the $649 price it is a good strong saw to run stock, oh quite too.

After a little more testing I may just let this one go to find me another saw to make into a racesaw.

[beenthere]

I agree, "to each his own".

I have the 20" bar, for the reason I don't have to bend so much (5'9") and I do most (or a lot) of cutting at the bar tip. I don't get the bar tip in the dirt (or VERY seldom), and when cutting limb wood, I kick a toe under the limb, raise it up off the ground, and cut with the top of the bar at/near the tip.  Forces are then down, chips go down and away from me, and it is quick.
And for limbing, I like that fact that when caught up in the tops of a tree, I can reach out without having to try to crawl through that tangle/mess of small stuff to get in there.  

Also, the trees I cut are in the range that I need the 20" bar, don't have more than one length bar, and the MS361 handles/balances well with the 20" bar.
(and in another decade, I'll be 80 - yikes!, and won't know what all I might not be using then.. )

So there are good reasons for both, IMO.    I'm happy.

cut4fun
Will be interested in how the new Husky does in hardwood.

[John Mc]

Beenthere - Sounds like we've each developed systems which work for us in the types of trees we're cutting. If I were cutting bigger diameters, or didn't already have back and neck troubles, I might have to adapt.

With what I'm cutting, I don't run into stuff that takes more than a 16" bar all that often. I'm mostly thinning or cutting malformed or other undesirable trees so the good stuff can grow. Once it's down and limbed, almost all of it gets cut into firewood. Cutting 12" diameter hardwood logs into 16" lengths can get old pretty quickly, and I'm not into doing it that out on the tip of the bar. (Don't tell my wife, but a fair amount of the limbing does happen out near the end of the bar).

I've been doing most fo my cutting for the last several years with a Jonsered 2152 (.325 pitch, 16" bar). It works fine, and is nice and light weight. It is a bit slow in the hardwoods at the larger end of my range. I recently picked up a Husky 357xp used, on the theory that the extra weight might be a good trade off for a faster cut. I'm still getting it set up and tweaking things. Currently I have a 16" bar on it. That may get traded up to an 18", if I start running into bigger stuff.

Happy cutting!

John Mc

[beenthere]

........... Cutting 12" diameter hardwood logs into 16" lengths can get old pretty quickly, and I'm not into doing it that out on the tip of the bar. .........

I don't either..

'cept of late, when I have a 10 -14" diam log to buck into 18" lengths, I support it at the two ends. Then the top is in compression and the bottom in tension, open to the ground below. I will plunge cut about 2" from the top (keeps from pinching closed on the bar), and cut through the bottom for all the cuts along the length. When finished with all the cuts, I just nip off the remaining 2" at the top, and don't have to roll the log over.

[Dave Shepard]

They make bars shorter than 20"?

[Ironwood]

Well, after a years wait for my saw shop guy, he finally pieced together an extra 372 for me. I have bought all my saws used from him. He is THE local pro saw shop in our area (in fairness, I don't consider Frickman's dad "local"). He is really talented and good, carries Stihl, Huskie, and others (Echo, blah blah). I have two 394's, two 372's (now) and a 338xp (trying to get him to finish an extra 338/335). I can get rid of my 257, which is OK, but not an XP.  After hearing 372's might disappear, I figured I better get two. The 394's are for Alaskan milling, and a 72" bar for vert. cutting and 32" for timber cutting (one is always tied up one way or another). The two future 338's are for out in the woods cutting furniture stock, one always dulls and it's easier to just carry a spare. So, this many saws may sound like an extravagance, really the only "extra" saw is the second 372. Love those 372's . For the record, a clean used 372 went for $275, sold the 257 for $175, so only an extra hun in the spare 372.

 Ironwood

[Cut4fun]

Nothing wrong with extras Ironwood, so far I have 3 084's and trying to get a 4th. I lost track on the Partner 5000 at 10 or so and started giving the 500 ones away to friends to use. Couple of top handle poulans I like for my homeowner trim duties etc. Couple 365 - 372 - 375 myself. 

[TexasTimbers]

C4F,

You need to edit your signature I don't see a 570 listed in there.

Don't judge it in hardwood until about 10 tanks eh?

[SawTroll]

Those flip caps can be a PITA. I have had them come off and dump oil and/or gas on my leg if they are not properly seated.

Sure, but why aren't they?   

[Cut4fun]

C4F,

You need to edit your signature I don't see a 570 listed in there.

Don't judge it in hardwood until about 10 tanks eh?

It wont let me add anymore saws. So I just left it alone.  Added the Husky 365 special, Sachs Dolmar 166, Redmax G5000, Husky 570 and the list goes on.
I think I will sale the 570 without putting to many cuts on it (leave it new and not broken in to resale) I just got it to test and am really surprised with the torque it has compared to stock 372 or the 365 special. I am into saws that like modding and I think the 570 is best left stock and quite.

[SawTroll]

C4F,

You need to edit your signature I don't see a 570 listed in there.

Don't judge it in hardwood until about 10 tanks eh?

It wont let me add anymore saws. So I just left it alone.  Added the Husky 365 special, Sachs Dolmar 166, Redmax G5000, Husky 570 and the list goes on.
I think I will sale the 570 without putting to many cuts on it (leave it new and not broken in to resale) I just got it to test and am really surprised with the torque it has compared to stock 372 or the 365 special. I am into saws that like modding and I think the 570 is best left stock and quite.

Quiet - but I think you got it right in your head.......

[VTWOODKID]

i love my 362 xp but did husky stop making them?

[TexasTimbers]

C4F, you can transfer your list of saws to your signature line, and put your current sig line in your avatar box. I think your sig is short enough to fit, and I know the sig line will give you a much larger canvas to list your saws. In fact, you might have enough room left for future purchases.

[Old_Hickory]

is liking my 372 xp better each  time I use  it,Am glad traded the 441 for  it  now

[Old_Hickory]

is liking my 372 xp better each  time I use  it,Am glad traded the 441 for  it  now

Just got done helping a friend cut up 2 trees.he had a ms361 me my 372xp The 372
owns the 361,it will easily cut 2 blocks to the 361's 1 block. both just had new chains put on them.I used  to be hard Stihl fan had heard all the talk and  hype of the 372 xp.thought  it was just that.Well it is'nt.the are the smoothest best cutting saws a  man can own,If you think this
is just Husky fans talking like I used  to,Just do  yourself a favor and try 1  you  will not be disappointed

[Cut4fun]

Hickory, I see you sold a 441. I tested one out and it was about worthless imo in that class of saw 70cc. Only something a stihlhead could like.
I have been testing a Husqvarna 570 which is smaller the the 441 cc wise at 68cc and it out cuts it imo with its broader torque curve.
I am neither husky or stihl biased I like them all.
But I would take the dolmar 7900 over all of them. It just flat out rocks and kicks all the 70cc-79cc saws butts in the class.
I have owned them to know.

[beenthere]

Old_hickory
Reading back on your old threads, I think you are still trying to convince yourself that the 372xp was the right decision...

Glad you like it. 

[Old_Hickory]

beenthere   it is  by  far the best chainsaw   I  have ever used or bought,Is  glad   i sold  the 441  and  got  the 372 xp,I  would'nt be   much afraid  to say  my  old 034 AV super would
cut with  the 441 in 20 inch  and under stuff, Ive noticed at full throttle the 372 just slices
the wood,the 441 cut,but nothing like the 372XP

[Dave Shepard]

Was at the shop today, and they had a 441 and a 460 side by side. The 441 was $800, and the 460 was $850. Trying to figure out why the 441, the same weight but less power, is even on the shelf? . A buddy of mine crushed his last 440, and replaced it with a 441, he was not a happy camper.

[Old_Hickory]

I know when  I  had  my 441,it list more power than  the 372xp lists.But wide open the 372
just walks all over the 441

[hornett22]

441 is a joke of a saw.falls short with more than a 20".372 is much more saw than the 441.

i agree with the post about the 441 and the 460.doesn't make sense while the 460 is available.460 is a great saw.

[Old_Hickory]

the 441 is'nt even  in the same class as the 372 XP

[beenthere]

This plays like a broken record....

[SawTroll]

This plays like a broken record....

Yup....