Author Topic: E-Classic 2300 is now up and running in Central Mass (Read 35041 times)

Hackberry · « **Reply #180 on:** March 24, 2009, 02:54:58 pm »

Guys, I'm having a hard time posting pics. I sent them to leeallen, can you post them. It has nothing to do with the refractory cement (fire brick) it's below that and made of some kind of steel. There is no water around the fusion chamber, if their was it would not rupture cause it would not get that hot. Sorry about the pics. I'll try again tonight.

Hackberry

beenthere · « **Reply #181 on:** March 24, 2009, 03:19:30 pm »

Hackberry

What is hanging ya up on the pics?

Below the blue posting window here, is the
Java Uploader (re-sizes for you). Click on that.

That should take you smoothly through the process, if you browse for your .jpg photo's and know where they are at. It will put them in your gallery along with your wood-shed photos from December. It is easier now than it was then...fortunately.

Need to have Java on your computer to do it. Otherwise, the old method works too..resizing first to less than 500 pixels, and saving to less than the limit on file size second.

Hope this helps.

leeallen · « **Reply #182 on:** March 24, 2009, 07:11:53 pm »

Hackberry - I have tried to post pics and have not had any luck - sorry.

trebor64 · « **Reply #183 on:** March 26, 2009, 06:47:04 pm »

After Hackberry's post on the crack in the reaction chamber, I decided to empty and clean my e-classic today. I'm not sure if the crack I seem to have too is the same as the one Hackberry is talking about. Since it seems difficult to post pic here, I'm posting it on a different site. Pictures are taken from top (firebox) and bottom (reaction chamber, where the crack looks bigger) and I also added some other pictures for you interest. (cracking brick, creosote, tube, back panel....) If anyone notices unusual behavior from the pictures for an OWB, please let me know, I'm still pretty much newbie in the field. Below is the link: (just copy and paste in browser)

Hackberry, i'd appreciate if you could look at these pic and confirm my crack is superficial. $:-\$

Thanks / Trebor

trebor64 · « **Reply #184 on:** March 26, 2009, 06:53:30 pm »

Oups!! I thought that could work, sorry guys. Will look for a way around. -Trebor

trebor64 · « **Reply #185 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:16:04 pm »

Here it is, but with less pictures -Trebor

http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=2231

thecfarm · « **Reply #186 on:** March 26, 2009, 07:30:49 pm »

You are so close.Click onto whatever picture you want to post,
It will open up into a new window,scroll down,you should see,Click here to copy photo code directly to your post.

If you post more than one picture in the same post,hit the enter key to leave a space between your pictures.Click on to preview to see how it looks.You can play around with it in preview to see how everyone else will see it.

Hackberry · « **Reply #187 on:** March 27, 2009, 07:43:08 am »

trebor64,

Your crack is superficial. Send me an e-mail and I'll send you the picks and you can post them. I only have dial-up and have tried for hours. I tried to buy the X thing and after 30 mn the thing dropped off. Java won't load cause of my fire wall. My dealer called and said the Fusion Chamber is in and will install shortly. I'll take lots of pics. while we do this so you can see what I'm talking about.

Hackberry

antos_ketcham · « **Reply #188 on:** March 27, 2009, 06:56:13 pm »

Wow - your firebox looks like it burns a lot hotter than mine is. May I ask what your heat load is and how often your unit is running wide open versus idle?

That heat looks very intense.

Pete

trebor64 · « **Reply #189 on:** March 27, 2009, 10:19:52 pm »

Pete- as I posted somewhere in the forum, I'm heating a 5000sq/f poorly insulated kind of log house with some 25foot ceiling and many many windows, and my 80 gallon DHW. Combine this with an insufficient water/water heat exchanger and I guess it could explain why my OWB has to high burn so often, and hence a big wood consumption. Since I'm not a pro in the field, I thought my OWB firebox looked quite normal except for my bricks falling. - Trebor

rondojod · « **Reply #190 on:** March 28, 2009, 06:44:14 am »

trebor64,

looks like you have a dual fuel model. Do you use the gas at all and if so how much?

antos_ketcham · « **Reply #191 on:** March 28, 2009, 08:45:49 am »

I actually think this is a good thing as you have less creosote build-up than I do. With the exception of the cracked refractory and the brick it looks good.

BTW - I went ahead and removed my brick per CB's notice to owners. New units are coming without the brick because of this issue. The brick is not needed for the clean burn.

Pete

Quote from: trebor64 on March 27, 2009, 10:19:52 pm

Pete- as I posted somewhere in the forum, I'm heating a 5000sq/f poorly insulated kind of log house with some 25foot ceiling and many many windows, and my 80 gallon DHW. Combine this with an insufficient water/water heat exchanger and I guess it could explain why my OWB has to high burn so often, and hence a big wood consumption. Since I'm not a pro in the field, I thought my OWB firebox looked quite normal except for my bricks falling. - Trebor

trebor64 · « **Reply #192 on:** March 28, 2009, 01:06:49 pm »

Quote from: rondojod on March 28, 2009, 06:44:14 am

trebor64,

looks like you have a dual fuel model. Do you use the gas at all and if so how much?

rondojod- I bought the dual fuel model mainly because first, my oil boiler is an old one and if or when it'll go down, I won't replace it, I'll use the propane capacity of the e-classic and secondly, since I've installed the e-classic to heat my swimming pool, i wanted the re-ignition mode available. As of now, the propane setup I have is basic, with a 40 pound tank. I was able to ignite the wood load on the first startup, but since then the tank froze...... as expected. Anyway, no need for the re-ignition function in winter time since the fire never goes out. Now, with warmer temperature, the propane is working again, (not steady though) but the fire never goes out so re-ignition function is not turned on. Will wait until needed, and see this summer how this will work out. - Trebor

petefrombearswamp · « **Reply #193 on:** April 06, 2009, 04:48:20 pm »

Holy cow what a long thread.
I quit reading after 4 pages.
My 2 cents as follows.
I heat 3200 square feet on two floors, a well insulated basement with 8" of insulation in the side walls and the main floor with 6" side-wall and 12" blown in in the ceiling, a cathedral in the living room and kitchen area of about 600 sq. feet.
The house was built in 1994 so the 12" has settled to about 10"
My furnace is a Central Boiler 4436 with a run of thermo plex of 22' buried about 2'.
Temp differential of the boiler is from 175 to 145 degrees.
The heat loss from the furnace to my plate exchanger is negligible.
I can't remember the number of plates in my plate exchanger and can't read the info on the back side, but it measures 5" wide x 12" high x 3" thick, with 1-1/4 NPT nipples
I get about a 10 degree drop from inlet to outlet on the exchanger.
We keep our house at about 72 degrees and heat the domestic hot water.
I stoke the furnace twice a day with 10 plus or minus medium size pieces, of Ash, Beech or hard maple.
The only time I fill the thing is when we are going to be gone for a day or more.
I just did my annual calculation of wood used and it is just under 7 Standard cords ( 128 cubic feet of wood and air, a pile measuring 4'x4'x8')
I have noticed several claims of cordage used and prices for wood. are these standard or face cords?
A standard cord of wood here in central NYS costs from $150 to $175 (nearly all firewood producers sell a 16" face cord.)
Another note: I bought, at the recommendation of my dealer ,55 gallons of anti freeze for my furnace loop as we do travel some in the winter.
That heating season I had to add about, SURPRISE!! 40 to 45 gallons of water.
When I contacted the manufacturer of the anti freeze, they told me it is alcohol based. A $400 mistake.
Thanks to all for the god (mostly) info
Pete

JJ · « **Reply #194 on:** April 07, 2009, 09:49:53 pm »

I will be checking on my boiler.
Let me know of any update from CB.

Rick at farmer4hire in NH is my dealer and I am happy he is well aware of the defect.

JJ

whodoctor · « **Reply #195 on:** June 29, 2009, 10:06:22 am »

Hey Guys. Sorry I've not updated in so long. There is a failure in the water jacket of the unit. See page 1 of the blog for details. The barn is now complete and I'll post pics as soon as I can find the time to figure out how to do it again.

Highlander · « **Reply #196 on:** July 08, 2009, 10:15:29 am »

Great info, Keep up the amazing work..

Highlander · « **Reply #197 on:** August 24, 2009, 12:13:13 am »

Do you have any updates yet?

MudBud · « **Reply #198 on:** September 08, 2009, 07:56:27 pm »

Well, its almost time for the next season of burning for me. After cleaning out the fire box and the reaction chamber what do I find? Yep, the combustion area, half moon metal area let go and warped pretty bad. I contacted my dealer and a new one will be sent at their cost. Also they say the ceramic fire bricks on top are wear items. I am trying to get them under warranty as well. Anyway once it arrives, could be a while, the dealer will install it. His is blown too..interesting. I hope the new ones last as they are not supposed to rupture.

CB says it is not an issue to run it like this until the new one arrives.....? Then what is the real purpose behind it.

Next....anyone have an easy way to clean the turbulator area all the way to the bottom. forget the weak ass brush.

Any other clues before starting it up again?

Keith

DR_Buck · « **Reply #199 on:** September 08, 2009, 08:06:45 pm »

The more I read about experience with the E-Classic, the more glad I am that I went with the "original" Classic.

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Author Topic: E-Classic 2300 is now up and running in Central Mass (Read 35041 times)