Author Topic: E-Classic 2300 is now up and running in Central Mass (Read 34966 times)

ecrane99 · « **Reply #100 on:** December 17, 2008, 09:18:43 pm »

Anyone know how much energy a taco 007 uses? I have two of those pumping water from my eclassic. One runs constantly, the other turns on periodiclly to warm the domestic hotwater.

MudBud · « **Reply #101 on:** December 17, 2008, 09:34:16 pm »

Well I had been without power for 5 days in Maine over this last ice storm. After all that time when the power was restored yesterday the boiler was still at 131 degrees with no fire inside the chamber for that long. Pretty impressive!!!!

PineNut · « **Reply #102 on:** December 17, 2008, 09:50:37 pm »

The Taco 007 nameplate says .71 amps at 115 VAC. That would be about 82 voltamps. Don’t know the power factor but would guess about 70 to 75 watts. It is an impedance protected motor so the power factor may be lower and the resulting power lower.

ecrane99 · « **Reply #103 on:** December 20, 2008, 07:48:18 pm »

We did the math and found power costs for our eclassic setup are runnung $30/month

thecfarm · « **Reply #104 on:** December 20, 2008, 09:04:46 pm »

ecrane99,is crane your last name?

ecrane99 · « **Reply #105 on:** December 20, 2008, 10:31:34 pm »

Quote from: thecfarm on December 20, 2008, 09:04:46 pm

ecrane99,is crane your last name?

Yes

bscully · « **Reply #106 on:** December 20, 2008, 11:51:43 pm »

I am having a problem with my temperature gradually dropping on my eclassic. I have cleaned the reaction chamber and stoke often to avoid any bridging. With the by pass closed the temp is dropping. Yes I have the paper clip in place and things had been fine until just recently. I have checked the solenoid and the air intakes in the back are open, the blower is running and still the temp drops. Seems to have a decent fire going too. If I open the bypass the temp comes back up and the blower will stop. If I close the bypass, the blower runs constantly and the temp drops. Seems to obviously be an air issue but I cant seem to remedy it. Getting frustrated with the performance of this thing. Anyone have any thoughts about what this issue could be?

thecfarm · « **Reply #107 on:** December 21, 2008, 08:22:40 am »

So is mine,that's where the "C" came from in The C Farm.

MudBud · « **Reply #108 on:** December 21, 2008, 09:45:10 am »

Scully, make sure the hole going from the firebox to the reaction chamber is open at all times. Without this airflow you will smother the fire. Also make sure there isn't any wood blocking the air holes on the sides of the firebox. I have had that problem when using 2x6's kiln dried leaning against the holes. Also I removed both bars covering the hole to the reaction chamber. Once I did that it has worked much better.

bscully · « **Reply #109 on:** December 21, 2008, 10:27:23 am »

Thanks for the info. How do those bars come out? Difficult? I would assume that ensure the hole will be open all the time. NEver getting the ash bed to build over it.

MudBud · « **Reply #110 on:** December 21, 2008, 10:35:08 am »

They just pull out as they just sit in a groove. I burn a lot of wood with nails and staples and it would blind off. If they still are in there I can almost guarantee it is plugged going down through. I use a poker to keep it clean and also I found out it works best to clean the reaction chamber weekly, if I dont I start to see my temps not climb as quickly.

bscully · « **Reply #111 on:** December 21, 2008, 10:59:56 am »

ok I just had a great fire going. Damper open. I removed one of the bars and shoveled out some of the reaction chamber to make sure there was nothing blocking. Looking into the firebox I could see a very good opening and air flow into the reaction chamber. Everything was burning and looking great. I closed the bypass door and within 5 minutes the temp had dropped 5 degrees and when I opened the door the fire was basically out. The blower is running and the solenoids are open.

I open the bypass and the fire starts back up and the temp comes up. Im stumped. Closing the bypass is choking off the air somehow even with the blower running and the air intake (solenoid switch) in the back open. I have had an issue in the past with the bypass door sticking. Its 15 degrees and we're getting a foot of snow tonight so I have to let it run as is to keep the house warm. Help??

TheChief · « **Reply #112 on:** December 21, 2008, 12:02:09 pm »

Make sure the hole in the bottom goes all the way to the bottom of the reaction chamber. That area below can get really packed. So if the reaction chamber is clean push some ashes down your hole. If none fall, you have a nice compact pile in the back (It has happend to me once). Next, have you cleaned the swirl vanes recently? Make sure those are cleaned out. Those are accessable from the back.

Sorry if I am stating the obvious, but you never know, your dealer may not have shown you this part. Looking at the back side of the boiler, you have two lower access panels, exhaust in the center, and then an access panel in the upper left side. Open up the upper left hand side access panel and pull the swirl vanes. And then clean; there are 6 swirl vanes that pull out, real easy. Also make sure the area from exit of the swirl vanes to the right is clean, this area is difficult to see, but leads to the exhaust.

You can also open up the bottom of the exhaust stack and see a hole that leads to the left towards your swirl vanes, there should be no obstructions. I have to clean out my exhaust weekly because I am not using seasoned wood. Hopefully I'll get head for next year.

This should get you up and running.

bscully · « **Reply #113 on:** December 21, 2008, 12:25:26 pm »

I did clean out the swirl vanes with the brush that you push down into the boiler. I didnt brush the vanes off themselves very much. And I have never had the back of the stack off. I am also burning some unseasoned wood and pine so maybe I have something blocking back there. Maybe related to the bypass. Thanks Ill go check it later and let you know how I do.

beenthere · « **Reply #114 on:** December 21, 2008, 02:05:45 pm »

To clean the swirl vanes (as often as weekly?), I suspect you need to shut down the burner and have no fire. ??
In our negative F temps today, and 15-20 mph winds, I'd find that a onerous task to do today.

Or is this more a case of just putting up with some heat and gases from a fire as you clean it out?

TheChief · « **Reply #115 on:** December 21, 2008, 02:09:07 pm »

Open the door so the blower motor is not running, then clean. The temps are not bad, and if it is cold out the swirl vanes will cool off quickly. You do not have to empty the combustion chamber.

bscully · « **Reply #116 on:** December 21, 2008, 07:23:51 pm »

ok no luck. Ive done just about everything mentioned. Cleaned the swirl vanes and as much as I could see inside. Cleaned out the reaction chamber. I removed one of the rods that is in the opening between the firebox and the reaction chamber. I opened the cover on the back of the exhaust and looked around. there were no obstructions. There was some soot and a little ash but nothing coming close to blocking the opening. Was just out shoveling and closed the bypass. The temperature began to slowly drop over the course of a half hour or so. It got to 175 and I said screw it and opened the bypass and headed back inside because it is freezing and very windy here. Im open to suggestions guys.

MudBud · « **Reply #117 on:** December 21, 2008, 08:18:57 pm »

I went out and looked until I couldnt take the foot of snow or wind anymore. When you open the main door and hear the blower stop, open the door and push the door switch in and see if you can hear the blower kick in and supply the chamber with air. You should see something happen around the ashes as they kick up a little bit.

After that I would call the rep or CB direct.

bscully · « **Reply #118 on:** December 22, 2008, 04:53:10 pm »

I may have gotten a handle on my problem. Today I came home from work and I had left the boiler running with the bypass door open so I would at least have a fire and my house warm. The fire was out. Obviously what happens is that the ash falls into the reaction chamber and builds up when you burn this way. It built up until it choked out my fire which is not a huge surprise. I was waiting for it to get a bit warmer to do a total clean out of the boiler but was forced into it this afternoon. I emptied everything and started over. Totally emptied the reaction chamber and the fire box. Cleaned the swirl vanes and checked the exhaust for any obstructions. Im back up to temp now.

I wish there was an "Idiots guide" for these things as a supplement to the owners manual. There are definitely some tricks to getting it down but it does work nicely when its running properly. In addition to my previous lessons it would appear that a total clean out every few weeks is in order.

thanks again for your help.

Bart May · « **Reply #119 on:** December 23, 2008, 07:13:14 pm »

OK guys I have been dying to ask this question to you new E-classic owners.
Last January I bought cl-6048. The day after I put my deposit down Central Boiler announced the E-Classic.
Because my stove was on back order (I waited for permits to clear, I live in town),
My dealer told me I could trade up to the E Classic.
After allot of reading on downdraft gasification and a couple of agonizing days, I decided on the on the cl-6048 with concerns about CB ability to deliver a new product.
The cl-6048 has been a great stove. My house is very difficult to heat. Yet my Return on Investment is only 22 months. My wood is free other than my sweat equity, gas and a maintained on a Husqvarna saw.
Living here in Virginia, I figure I cut and burn 10 to 12 cords of hard wood this winter.
I have been eagerly following all of your comments about the E-classics and working thru the bugs.
For the most part it sounds like most of you are happy with your E-classic. (Maybe you guys should patented the paper clip and ask CB for a design discount???)
Anyway my question is this. To you folks that had a 6048 and now own a E-classic, how much less wood do you think the E-classic will burn than your 6048?

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Author Topic: E-Classic 2300 is now up and running in Central Mass (Read 34966 times)