E-Classic 2300 is now up and running in Central Mass

[thecfarm]

Welcome to the forum,hookem75.

[Radar67]

Welcome to the forum. What type of baseboard heater did you use and who supplied them. I'm looking into baseboard heat for the house I'll start building soon.

[DouginUtah]

I used Slant/Fin for my baseboard heaters.

www.slantfin.com

[beenthere]

I too have the slant/fin for baseboard heating. Put in just 40 years ago, and have no complaints with its performance or upkeep.

Their site shows a good installation guide as well.

[hookem75]

I also used Slant-fin.  everyone uses and carries it and it was wicked easy to put in.

[waorgany]

Hi everyone,

      I wish I would have found this forum sooner, some great stuff in here. We too put/had put in a Central Boiler eClassic  2300 about a month ago. I did the slab for the stove, the whole in the basement, wood shed, about 20’ away off the garage, and ditch myself, with a little help from a friend.  The dealer put in the stove and did all the hook ups , and hot water kit too. So far we love the stove. Our house is a limestone block house that was built in 1850. We are in Northern NY, and it gets cold up here. We have been heating with fuel oil since we moved in 2005, and didn’t want to spend another cold winter paying outrageous amounts of cash for fuel oil so we took the plunge. We figured that after two to three years we will be heating for free. We have access to free wood, and can cut and split all we need.

I will use some split wood, since I do travel a lot and it will make it easier for my wife to load the stove when I am away. This past Sunday was the first time since we had the stove installed that I cleaned it out.  Just over three weeks. The main reason I did this was to fix the dropping temp. I figured that too much ash was in the reaction chamber or the “D” shaped chute below the two bar grates was plugged. So I let the fire burn down and removed all the ash from above (most of it), and then removed the fine ash from the reaction chamber, it was just over half way full, and I was shocked at how fine that ash was. Cleaned the turbolator chutes and fins, and put it all back together, rebuilt the fire and took forever to get it going again. Once it did all was good and it heated up fine. This stove is amazing and our home has never been warmer in the winter we have the temp at 70 in all three zones and also heat our domestic hot water as well. I think before next year I will add another pump and line and heat the garage and bar area also.

Today I went out to reload the stove, and the temp was down to about 174. Was out there just before lunch for something else and it was down to 134!!! Holly Cow…So that’s when I searched and found this site. I read about what others have done with the “paper clip”? Not sure I fully understand this, and exactly what needs to be done? The picture posted is not that great of quality and I had trouble determining what exactly needs to be done. If someone else has a better pic of what they did that would be great. I am not sure why we spend this kind of money on this stove and have to use a .02 paper clip to keep the heat up to where it should be? Thanks in advance for more detailed instructions and picture. I sure hope that this will help our problem…better go check to stove again now. Thanks again.

[hookem75]

i will try to take pics today

[waorgany]

Thanks Hookem my temp is back up again last night have not been out yet this am to check it heading there next

[renegadecj]

Hey all!  Just found this forum while looking for answers regarding my new E-classic 2300. 
I have a question regarding the paper clip fix as well....I'm looking forward to the pic of the actual placement...I definitely don't want to stick one in the wrong place!!

Do you insert it when the system is running or during "rest" mode?

Great info here.  I had a classic #6048 for the last 3 yrs, and it worked great, but just smoked too much, and burnt a lot of wood.  So far, the e-classic 2300 seems to burn less wood and definitely smokes quite a bit less.  My only problem has been the "going out" for the fire, and coming home to a system running backwards.

I have a glycol radiant heat system with the heat exchanger for the heat transfer.

My problem is if the boiler goes out, or I am gone for a few days, my backup system (natural gas) goes on and begins to heat the water in a backwards fashion-heating not only my home, but the boiler water too.  Is there such thing as a temperature regulated valve I could insert at the heat exchanger so if the boiler water dropped below a certain temp, it would close off and keep my house boiler from heating the water in the wood burner?

Thanks all!

[beenthere]

.............

My problem is if the boiler goes out, or I am gone for a few days, my backup system (natural gas) goes on and begins to heat the water in a backwards fashion-heating not only my home, but the boiler water too.  Is there such thing as a temperature regulated valve I could insert at the heat exchanger so if the boiler water dropped below a certain temp, it would close off and keep my house boiler from heating the water in the wood burner?

Thanks all!

renegadecj
Welcome to the forum.
There are one-way valves, called anti-backflow I believe, that should work for this situation. Other than that, a solonoid shut-off valve could be put in line.

For my boiler system, I have a remote digital thermometer that I put on the boiler, and can read the temperature from my bedside...if the fire goes out or the boiler gets low and wood and cools down, I can tell what the water temperature is without getting out of bed. About $40 with two sending units at the Shack. One sending unit is reading the outside temp, the other the boiler water temp., and the base unit gives the room temp.   Although my boiler is in the basement, I think it would be particularly handy with the outside units...as the walk out to just read the water temp is a completely different event..

[renegadecj]

For my boiler system, I have a remote digital thermometer that I put on the boiler, and can read the temperature from my bedside...if the fire goes out or the boiler gets low and wood and cools down, I can tell what the water temperature is without getting out of bed. About $40 with two sending units at the Shack. One sending unit is reading the outside temp, the other the boiler water temp., and the base unit gives the room temp.   Although my boiler is in the basement, I think it would be particularly handy with the outside units...as the walk out to just read the water temp is a completely different event..

Outstanding!  That is a great idea.  I don't mind checking the temp usually, but when it is frigid out, or deep snow, it sure would be nice to look at the temp from inside.  How do you read the temp of the boiler?  Is there a probe you can tape to the pex?  Any specific brand?

[beenthere]

I have no probe on the boiler. I just physically set the thermometer on the water jacket and read the relative temp that is given off when the water temp is up to the 'set' temp. Mine will read 100° when the water temp is really 160°.

Radio shack lists one, which is close to what I have.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2858031

called a Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer

A google search turns up several, that also have a hi-lo temp alarm feature, that likely would come in handy for the outdoor boiler operation. Some have up to three channels for monitoring.
A probe may be available as an accessory, but am not familiar with any. and see they have probes for checking meat on a BBQ, at up to 100'.  Might be a possibility.

[stumper]

Are any of you having issues with the by pass sticking?  Mine is sticking badly.  How are you guys cleaning yours so it works freely?

woagany when you clean out the box be sure you clean out the air inlet holes.

[hookem75]

 







You can see the "clip" in the last photo.  I used a piece of copper wire.

[renegadecj]

Are any of you having issues with the by pass sticking?  Mine is sticking badly.  How are you guys cleaning yours so it works freely?

woagany when you clean out the box be sure you clean out the air inlet holes.

Mine sticks badly during warmer days, when the burner isn't going full bore.  Seems to be less during the colder days.  I usually can pull it open, but if not, I have a small log I tap it with, and then pull it open.

[waorgany]

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

You can see the "clip" in the last photo.  I used a piece of copper wire.

great pics thanks...I see you have foam pipe insultation around the lines at the stove great idea, I only have pink insulation now will have to add the pipe wrap too. Thanks for the pics. Yes I made sure I cleaned around the air vents good when I clean out the stove. I have not had any trouble with the bypass door not closing all the way except when I loaded some wood in the other day and had a long skinny limb wood, and it got jambed back inside it and wouldn't close, the fire was then going very good and had a heck of a time getting that sucker out of there. Thanks alot everyone, all the best, and stay warm!!!

[renegadecj]

Wow...Thanks for the "Paper clip" fix!!!  Amazing, all that technology and personal investment, and I needed a paper clip to make it right.

After re-lighting almost daily, my E-classic has been going non-stop for the last 4 days!

I actually love this boiler...substantially less smoke, and much more efficient!!

[TheChief]

Hello all,

I've got an E-Classic 2300 (wood only) that has been operational since Oct 4, 2008.

Here are a few things I have learned:

1. Control the ash bed with different sizes of wood and stoking.
2. Larger diameter pieces will tend to deplete the coal/ash bed, and the smaller pieces tend to build up the ash bed.
3. Try not to let the ash bed get much higher than the supply air holes on the sides and back.
4. When stoking, spread the hot coals evenly and include the corners.
5. Evaluate the hole in the center that the ashes go to. Hot glowing coals in the center is good an means the air is going through. You may have to poke a hole through the center every once in a while.
6. About once a week let the bed burn down a little lower than normal for a clean up (A few larger logs 9-12" the night before will help). When the temp gets with in 1 degree of refiring and the coal bed is a little lower than normal you can start cleaning up. Scrape down thew walls first and quickly, it is easier to do while hot. Now scrape the sides down past the holes to the brick. Don't forget you have air holes in the back. The corners tend to build up with creosote and may be difficult to clean. When cleaning out the reaction chamber, only pull out the fine white ash near the access panel. Leave the larger coals that are directly under the combustion chamber, these hot coals tend to help with the "reburn" in the reaction chamber.
7. After clean up or anytime the fire gets low it is important to reload the boiler properly. I recommend using your dryer wood for this scenario. Start out with the smallest wood/twigs you have and then progressivly place in larger pieces of wood up to 6-9" in diameter max.
8. Keep the pieces between 18-24" long. A few long ones in the mixture just means more work when stoking.
9. Build a nice base on that goes 12" above the holes on the side then start loading the wood like a pyramid, trying to keep the wood off the ends. Stop when the top of the pyramid is about 3/4 to the top.
10. Experiment to see what works best for you.

I'm burning a mixture of seasoned wood that has got wet and mostly dried out and some green stuff.
I'm heating about 3000 sq ft house. I am heating, hot water, 3 radiant floor zones, have a heat exchanger in the furnace (for blower heat on 2nd thermostat) and a heat exchanger with blower in the garage that I keep at 65 degrees. (We cage the dog in the garage during the day)

I live in Johnstown, Ohio, near Columbus, and we have had a mixture of warm and cold periods. I have only lost my fire 2 times and do not use a paper clip to keep the draft door partially open. I have come close a few times, but found running the boiler at 180-185 degrees and stoking the fire when it looks like it might be out has helped out.
I think that moving the dog's cage out to the garage and upping the temp from 45 to 65 degrees has helped put more of a load on the system, which keeps it fired more often, thus no need to relight the fire.

I have used a little more than a cord of wood so far and probably have 5 gallons of ash. My uncle who lives next door has a Johnson wood boiler and is amazed at how little wood I have burned and how little ash I have.

We keep the house around 73-74 degrees, still working out the zoning on the radiant floors. This requires a fine touch, and I will talk more about the floors in another posting.

I also had problem with my second thermostat. It took some creative engineering to get the blower fan to work because of the "Smart thermostat" that is on my furnace. I'll explain this one later.

I also have a few issues with the bypass door and exhaust, but will discuss later.

I'm a little dissappointed in the lighting, and I now know why CB did not place motion sensor lights on the boiler.

I'll try to post some pictures in one of my next posts.

One last comment, we have a water softner and used 2.5 gallons of inhibitor to get almost perfect PH, and the nitrate test was good at 27 drops. My uncle used rain water and his water looks brown. Mine still looks clear after 2 months.

[MudBud]

Well I wish I had found this thread in September.  I have read everything in here and just about all the problems I have been having have been identified and even a couple new items, like the paper clip.  I am in southern Maine and installed in late September.  The day it ws installed it only took 3.5 hours to bring it up to 180 degrees.  With temps in the mid 40's and 50's it makes it hard keeping it running. With 3500sf and also doing a super store water tank, its not called for much.  I foresee in the summer to run oil instead for a couple months.

The biggest problem I have is during cold weather in the teens after about 4 days the temp drops to 140ish, my oil furnace kicks on at that time. I have done everything you have recommended and still have problems. When the dealer brought it in he told me to remove one of the bars in the bottom as he has seen his block off the lower section.

After 4 or 5 tomes dropping temp I called him and he is seeing the same problem,along with another customer in Mass.  Now, I burn crap wood I get from work, lots of pine chocks with nails and staples in them, some pallets and other free wood.  I do use some split cord wood as well.  He runs nothing but hard wood split, so I know its not the wood problem.

Having a good understanding of furnaces, mills, dryers and kilns, everything points to not enough airflow.  Yes all the holes on the side are uncovered and all the blowers are doing their job but the only way it keeps burning is with the door open, you close it and it smothers out the fire and keeps the temp dropping. 

He also talked about how CB says you MUST bridge the wood in the box, screw that!!!  I didn't buy a unit so I have to stack the wood almost perfect,thats a cop out to me since a coworker has a Woodmaster and he loads and goes, never any problems and only problem he sees is when he stacks his wood too high in front of his door, his blower is in the door. So during Thanksgiving I said screw it and cleaned the whole thing and started fresh.  It worked until 8 days later I noticed that the temp would not maintain again.  Also during the cleaning I removed the other bar going across.  I did this since I have lots of nails and staples in the wood, figuring I wouldnt get a blockage from them.
After 8 days I cleaned out the lower chamber and found it about packed with ash and all the metal.

As I stated earlier, with no airflow you have a smoldering fire.  If the lower hole starts to plug off from ash, wood, etc and the reaction chamber starts to fill its time to shovel it out and keep the airflow going. Once I cleaned that the temp rose from 152 to 185 in 30 minutes and the only thing was opening up the hole. Maybe why CB says to clean once per week.  And for people that wonder as I did, it can be cleaned while the unit is running, I insure the blower is off before removing the door.

As far as Ashtrol, its Lime to neutralize the firebox.  I converted and have no issues.  Funny how there MSDS can not specify its contents.

I have learned as others have stated that 8" x 30" + logs don't burn too well, however 8" x 18-20" do just fine without splitting. I burn some kiln dried wood, wet wood, and some green. And no matter what neighbors think, white smoke that disipates quickly is not smoke but moisture from the wood.  Yes I do stack readings for work as well for New Hampshire.

BTW, I remembered to take off the cap before I started the fire the first time!!!

Lights do suck, especially the one near the door after opening the firebox a few times.

I will try the paperclip trick if I need to.  I have no regrets of this unit, but the CB manual does not do any potential customer justice.  Maybe they should take some of these learnings to help others.

thanks and any questions, please ask...I will

Keith

[MudBud]

Also my electric bill has increased by 20-30 dollars a month since I installed the unit.