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Author Topic: Catclaw sharpener help  (Read 3164 times)

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Offline motohed

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Re: Catclaw sharpener help
« Reply #40 on: January 01, 2010, 06:30:36 pm »
Another thing that I have not seen  mensioned in this post is that you may also be getting the rock out of round ,when dressing it . This can cause quite a few problems on it's own . If you don't spin the wheel by hand close to the blade before you start sharpening . You may be setting up on the the low side of the wheel  and when the high side comes around the grind will be heavy . This will cause bluing and profile change also .

Offline Chuck White

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Re: Catclaw sharpener help
« Reply #41 on: January 01, 2010, 06:46:06 pm »
Mine goes just like yours Steve!
When I'm sharpening a new blade for the first time, it don't get it all, but it'll clean up nice the next time I sharpen it!
I don't usually send it through the sharpener 2 revolutions.  I'd be taking off metal that I don't need to!  ;)
CHUCK - Retired USAF and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG24 (Onan) - Shingle & Lap-Sider - Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener & Single Tooth Setter
Basic mechanical knowledge is all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
4 ft Logrite cant hook and a few unknown brands.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Catclaw sharpener help
« Reply #42 on: January 03, 2010, 10:50:41 am »
Do you guys set before sharpening every time??I have a dial indicator and check the set if its close I don't bother setting, it usally works out to every outher grinding,unless I hit nails then it goes through setting.Most bands its once around the block with minimal removal.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline Chuck White

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Re: Catclaw sharpener help
« Reply #43 on: January 03, 2010, 04:35:57 pm »
I always set, then sharpen!

That way, I don't have to mess with deburring the back side of the blade!

It really speeds things up and the burr goes away within a pass or two through the log and the blade cuts just as well as if the burr was removed by hand!
CHUCK - Retired USAF and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG24 (Onan) - Shingle & Lap-Sider - Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener & Single Tooth Setter
Basic mechanical knowledge is all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.
4 ft Logrite cant hook and a few unknown brands.
I LOVE MY SAWMILL

Offline ladylake

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Re: Catclaw sharpener help
« Reply #44 on: January 04, 2010, 04:38:41 am »
Do you guys set before sharpening every time??I have a dial indicator and check the set if its close I don't bother setting, it usally works out to every outher grinding,unless I hit nails then it goes through setting.Most bands its once around the block with minimal removal.Frank C.

 About the same here except I just eyeball them, every 2nd sharpening most times. I like to have bands with varying degrees of set. Lots of set for dry pine, not much for frozen logs.    Steve
Timberking B20   Case75xt   770 Oliver   Lots of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader    2  trailers  Wright sharpener     Dino setter

Offline LorenB

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Re: Catclaw sharpener help
« Reply #45 on: January 04, 2010, 11:08:03 pm »
Do you guys set before sharpening every time??I have a dial indicator and check the set if its close I don't bother setting, it usally works out to every outher grinding,unless I hit nails then it goes through setting.Most bands its once around the block with minimal removal.Frank C.

Like you, bandmiller2, I set only if it’s necessary.  I also have a dial indicator to check the set.  With this latest batch of ten blades I found that all of the ones up for their first sharpening were close enough.  Most of the rest, on their third or fourth sharpenings, needed setting. 

I also set before I sharpen.  I’ve tried setting after sharpening, but dealing with the burr was a real nuisance.  That burr probably messes up the setter, and I know it produces errors in reading the dial indicator. 

– Loren
Loren
Baker 3667D portable sawmill, Willow Creek edger, Logrite arches & cant hook.  Husky 272XP chainsaw.

 

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