husky 346xp, stihl MS280 & 260

[chugbug]

Stay with me guys , I'm learning alot here and I know you have been through this before , but I think I have it narrowed down to these 3 saws . They all have about the same 50.1 C.I. except the 280 is listed at 54.7. And there all in the same weight range , 346 is 11 pds. the ms 280 is 11.7 and the ms 260 is 10.6 . I think someone said the ms280 isn't in the same class ( not being a professional saw ) so it might not be a fair comparison as I believe the husky 346xp and the stihl ms260 are both pro saws , so which one would you pick

[Urbicide]

You are correct about the MS-260  & the 346XP NE being pro saws. I have a 346XP NE. It is has become one of my favorite saws. I have not run a MS-260 so I can't really comment on it. (Btw, all Stihl pro saws, with the exception of the MS-200T, have white handles).

The "classic" 346XP was basically designed as a high speed limbing saw. The New Edition version is a much better over all saw. It is easily destinguished from the older version by its silver colored clutch cover.

One other saw you might want to look at is the Dolmar 5100S.

[chugbug]

Do you feel the 346 or the 260 would make a good overall firewood saw ?? I cut smaller stuff around the house maybe up to 12'' and whatever I get on a tri-axle load of oak   .Weight is a big factor for me , to give you some info my old saw is 13 1/2 pounds with bar and chain and I can handle that fine .I never had an up to date fast cutting saw and want to do it right the first time .I think I could narrow it down to either the new husky 346xp or the stihl ms260 and it sounds like the husky has more up to date anti vib and is a little cheaper , everyone seems to think the 260 is a little behind the times .

[Urbicide]

Either saw will fit your needs. My 346XP NE is pretty much my go to saw. If I know I am going to need something a bit bigger then I grab my EHP 359 or my EHP 372XP.

One thing I would recommend for you. If you get the Husqvarna and it has a catalytic muffler (will have a green fuel cap and say e tech on the recoil housing) replace it with a stock, non e tech version (non EPA). The reason being the catalyst produces a ton of heat and since it is attached to the cylinder it will not permit it to cool properly. It is a virtual heat magnet. A new muffler should run around $35 to $40. It will also give a bit more performance too since it is not as restrictive.

[SawTroll]

Either saw will fit your needs. My 346XP NE is pretty much my go to saw. If I know I am going to need something a bit bigger then I grab my EHP 359 or my EHP 372XP.

One thing I would recommend for you. If you get the Husqvarna and it has a catalytic muffler (will have a green fuel cap and say e tech on the recoil housing) replace it with a stock, non e tech version (non EPA). The reason being the catalyst produces a ton of heat and since it is attached to the cylinder it will not permit it to cool properly. It is a virtual heat magnet. A new muffler should run around $35 to $40. It will also give a bit more performance too since it is not as restrictive.

No-brainer really - the Husky is a much better saw than either Stihl.


I have a weak spot for the ol' 260, but not weak enough to buy one.....


Btw, the Husky cost a lot more than either Stihl here - I still didn't have the slightest doubt about buying one.....

[chugbug]

Hey guys , I stopped in at the stihl dealer today and got to hold the 260 ,  its a very nice handling saw , none of the home owner self adjusting junk on it , not very much at all to go wrong on the outside , self oiling , no manuel ( hope thats ok) does have the side chain adjust screw where its easy to get at and only 10.6 pds in weight . I didn't come home with it yet ,I still want to see the husky 346xp .

 Saw troll , what do you like about the husky so much more than the 260 ??, I'm sure the husky has more anti vibe but I won't be running it all day so thats not a huge factor, what else is the 260 lacking !!

[SawTroll]

Hey guys , I stopped in at the stihl dealer today and got to hold the 260 ,  its a very nice handling saw , none of the home owner self adjusting junk on it , not very much at all to go wrong on the outside , self oiling , no manuel ( hope thats ok) does have the side chain adjust screw where its easy to get at and only 10.6 pds in weight . I didn't come home with it yet ,I still want to see the husky 346xp .

 Saw troll , what do you like about the husky so much more than the 260 ??, I'm sure the husky has more anti vibe but I won't be running it all day so thats not a huge factor, what else is the 260 lacking !!

Compared to the NE346xp - air filtration, anti-vibe, throttle responce and power.....

[chugbug]

OK Sawtroll ,I'll check out the husky as soon as I can and see how it feels , thanks for the help . Wish there was some place you could run them and really get a feel and see how they cut !!! So far I haven't been able to find any of are local loggers using either saw . Jonsereds seems to be used quite a bit because they like the dealer , I no there basically the same as the husky . The jonsered  I saw this week  had the primer bulb , it just seems like a week spot to me . But I did like the compression release , man that saw was easy to pull and the release turned off by itself.

[NYH1]

chugbug, if you have good Johnny Red support in your area, see if you can check out a 2153.  It's pretty much the same saw as the NE 346XP, different front handle bar angles and color.  For some reason they list it has having a tad less power then the NE 346XP, I don't know why. 

My NE 346XP has a 16 inch bar and 21LP (H21) chain.  It flat out rips.  A 2153 should do pretty much the same.

I would definitely look at a 2153 or NE 346XP.       

[SawTroll]

chugbug, if you have good Johnny Red support in your area, see if you can check out a 2153.  It's pretty much the same saw as the NE 346XP, different front handle bar angles and color.  For some reason they list it has having a tad less power then the NE 346XP, I don't know why. 

My NE 346XP has a 16 inch bar and 21LP (H21) chain.  It flat out rips.  A 2153 should do pretty much the same.

I would definitely look at a 2153 or NE 346XP.       

Welcome here!!

...and you are right....

[NYH1]

chugbug, if you have good Johnny Red support in your area, see if you can check out a 2153.  It's pretty much the same saw as the NE 346XP, different front handle bar angles and color.  For some reason they list it has having a tad less power then the NE 346XP, I don't know why. 

My NE 346XP has a 16 inch bar and 21LP (H21) chain.  It flat out rips.  A 2153 should do pretty much the same.

I would definitely look at a 2153 or NE 346XP.       

Welcome here!!

...and you are right....

Thanks SawTroll!

[jokers]

The 2153, just as the Husky 353, is ported differently and does have less peak horsepower than the 346 but a wider powerband. I`d recommend the 353 or the 2153 over the 346, even the new edition 346 to the average guy cutting firewood.

I`d also suggest that chugbug not rule out the 280 too quickly if the price is right. I owned for a long term demo and found it to be a very nice saw with decent power and torque for it`s weight, quite a bit more torque than any of the saws being discussed here. It was a good enough saw that I had no qualms about selling it to a friend who I see fequently. He`s ecstatic about it but his prior experience was with a Poulan and an ms290.

[SawTroll]

Russ, it looks like you mix up the 2152 and the 2153 - the 2152 is the 353, and the 2153 the NE346xp..............

[chugbug]

Don't have a johnny red  dealer very close but maybe one hour  away , Have a husky dealer much closer , are there any differences or are they identical saws ?? I will see how much less the 280 is , but I think someone said they weren't made anymore . Is ther any chance the johnny red hasn't been updated like the husky 346xp with the newer 50 cc engine .

[jokers]

Russ, it looks like you mix up the 2152 and the 2153 - the 2152 is the 353, and the 2153 the NE346xp..............

Yes, you`re right SawTroll! The 2153 has less power because it is red.........or maybe because that`s how the Husky marketers like it to be perceived.   

[SawTroll]

Don't have a johnny red  dealer very close but maybe one hour  away , Have a husky dealer much closer , are there any differences or are they identical saws ?? I will see how much less the 280 is , but I think someone said they weren't made anymore . Is ther any chance the johnny red hasn't been updated like the husky 346xp with the newer 50 cc engine .

If it is a 2153 it is the new one - the old 346xp is the 2147 when it is a Jonsered.

[SawTroll]

Russ, it looks like you mix up the 2152 and the 2153 - the 2152 is the 353, and the 2153 the NE346xp..............

Yes, you`re right SawTroll! The 2153 has less power because it is red.........or maybe because that`s how the Husky marketers like it to be perceived.   

Yes the power rating is a tad less on the Jonsered - it is with some other models as well, and vice versa with the 2159 vs. 359.

I believe it is just marketing..........

I stay with the Husky versions anyway, mostly because of the handlebar angle, even though the Jred ones looks better.

[NYH1]

I stay with the Husky versions anyway, mostly because of the handlebar angle, even though the Jred ones looks better.

I feel the same way.  Plus in my experience, the Johnny Red's cost more then the equivalent Husky's.  In my area the 2153 cost $50 to $60 more then the NE 346XP. 
 

[dancan]

Do you feel the 346 or the 260 would make a good overall firewood saw ?? I cut smaller stuff around the house maybe up to 12'' and whatever I get on a tri-axle load of oak

I've not cut any 12"oak but have blocked alot of 10''+ spruce and maple and have found that the bigger saw = less time working , if i was going to rely on 1 saw I'd be looking at the Makita6401/Dolmar5100 or the stihl MS361(my preference )

[chugbug]

Thanks for the advise , I have a larger saw for cutting big stuff , but find a heavy saw is just to hard on my back especially when cutting odds and ends up in the woods , this saw will replace my old homelite super ez , so I was trying to stay in that weight class 14 - 15 pds , I see that the big saw might work ok for cutting up the oak I got from the tri-axle load as I'm not bending over as much and like you said its quicker . I can't wait though to see the difference in these smaller saws compared to my big old homelite VI955 , I'm thinking the new much faster saws might cut faster even though they don't have the horsepower .

[chugbug]

Finally made it to the husky dealer , picked up the 346xp and looked at the tag 3.7 hp , thats the specs for the new edition saw , looked at the side cover and it has a very tiny grey insert , so I am not sure whether its a new edition or not , no compression release !!! I asked the owner and he wasn't aware of a new edition model ! So I get home and see on this site  that the new edition has the comp. release !! This saw has the new edition tag on it and isn't the new saw !! I didn't buy it and was very dissapointed , I try pulling the rope to see how hard it would be to turn over and decieded I definatley want the release .This isn't getting any easier and I'm getting discouraged with all the model changes . Now I'm wondering if the husky 353 would be good enough or go back to the stihl 260 pro model or try and order the ne346xp without the etec muffler !!!

[Urbicide]

I would find a 346XP NE. I am glad that you  knew the difference between the "classic" version & the new one. You have done your research. Can't say the same for the dealer you went to. (I bought mine last September).  Nothing like having a bad case of buyer's remorse. It's your money to spend so you should buy what you want. 

[chugbug]

I can't believe he had it tagged as the new saw , but most probably aren't aware of the change , I did thanks to this site and all the info you guys have been good enough to explain to me . Wouldn't it be a bugger if you purchased that saw and then found out later thats it not the N. E. . Any other thoughts on the three saws husky ne346xp , 353 or stihl 260 pro ?I think what had him puzzeled was they didn't change the model  number on the new saw , I would think with such a big difference in cubic Inch they would have changed the number and then it would have been easier to realize the change . On the other hand MAN do they change these saws alot !!!!!!!!!!
 
 Both the stihl 260 regular not the pro and the husky old mod. 346xp are the same exact price in my area , not sure how much more if any the new edition will be .

[Urbicide]

The NE 346XP should be pretty close to the price of the original, if not the same. I would think that a dealer would discount the older models to get them out of their inventory.

[SawTroll]

The NE 346XP should be pretty close to the price of the original, if not the same. I would think that a dealer would discount the older models to get them out of their inventory.

Exactly the same price here - at least when I bought mine....

Personally, I have never used the decomp valve, and as long as I don't use it, there probably are no reason to plug it - but I have the plug ready....

[chugbug]

I'm having trouble finding the NE346XP anywhere locally, asked the one dealer about ordering it and he gave me a price that is 100.00 dollars over Baileys !!! I wanted to do bussiness locally but there not making it easy . I wanted the dealer benifits of warranty work and initial set-up . What I'm wondering is how does Baileys do warranty work ? , do they want it shipped back so they can work on it or do you have to drag into a local dealer that you didn't buy it from ?? Do they run them and check carb settings ??

[beenthere]

I'd pay the $100 extra to the local dealer...figure it as an insurance policy. That's how I figure that the local dealer stays in business 

I want him to do well, so he can keep me out of trouble down the road when I need him.

[John Mc]

Baileys won't sell Husqvarna over the internet anymore (or I believe by phone order either). You have to go in and pick it up. Not their choice, a new policy by Husqvarna. None of their dealers are supposed to be doing internet sales. So unless you are going to go and pick it up, or know someone who lives near by and can pick it up for you (and pay sales tax and shipping), you're stuck with someone you can visit in person anyway.

John Mc

[SawTroll]

I'd pay the $100 extra to the local dealer...figure it as an insurance policy. That's how I figure that the local dealer stays in business 

I want him to do well, so he can keep me out of trouble down the road when I need him.

Yes, if the dealer is a good one, that you trust.

[chugbug]

I got the NE 346xp ordered from  a local dealer !!! And he gave me a very fair price . I want to thank all of you for all the help in researching this , I would never have been aware of all the changes going on !!! From what the dealer said they couldn't specify non- Etech when ordering it so it will probably come through with the Cat. muffler , can I change out the muffler and run it awhile then take the saw in for carb. adjustment or should I have the dealer make the adjustment right away ?? I know there's been some talk on all the different chains that are avail. out there , but what do you think there going to ship this saw with ?? There was some mention of a saftey chain , how can I identify it ??

[John Mc]

I always had the impression the dealer either spec'd the bar and chain, or ordered the powerhead and put the bar and chain on himself... but I'm probably way off on this. What gave me that impression is 2 Jonsered dealers in my area selling identical saws with different bars on them.

[Mooseherder]

I always had the impression the dealer either spec'd the bar and chain, or ordered the powerhead and put the bar and chain on himself... but I'm probably way off on this. What gave me that impression is 2 Jonsered dealers in my area selling identical saws with different bars on them.

I just bought a ms280 at a dealer last week.  He had ordered most of the Saws on display with the 16 inch Bar.  I guess I got a defective bar or I ruined it on the very first tree cut because it will not cut on the Downstroke. (I didn't abuse the saw at all) You can see the bottom of the bar is somewhat flexed to the left.  The Chain is sharp and cuts like the dickens when I lead with the tip to Bore cut or when I cut with the top of the Bar.  The chain is not over-tightened either.   I'm gonna order an 18 inch Bar and chain if the dealer won't replace the 16 inch.

[John Mc]

I guess I got a defective bar or I ruined it on the very first tree cut because it will not cut on the Downstroke. (I didn't abuse the saw at all) You can see the bottom of the bar is somewhat flexed to the left.  The Chain is sharp and cuts like the dickens when I lead with the tip to Bore cut or when I cut with the top of the Bar.

Sounds as though it's that twist in the bar that's getting you. Does it cut OK on the down cut as long as only one edge of the bar is in the wood, then bog down as soon as the trailing edge gets into the groove? That's usually a sign of a twisted bar or one that is worn unevenly. If worn unevenly (one rail worn down more than the other), you can sometimes fix it by truing up the bar by filing it back square again.

Once it's been used, I wouldn't count on the dealer replacing it for free. It only takes one mistake to screw up a new bar (don't ask me how I know... first tree with a new bar...)

John Mc

[Mooseherder]

John,
You described my problem with the down cut perfectly.  Looks like I'll be eating a new bar.

[John Mc]

If it weren't for your mention of being able to see the bend in the bar, I'd say try filing the rails square. But with that bend, I don't know what to do. I haven't had any luck trying to straighten a bar.

It doesn't hurt to see what you can get from your dealer. If you tell him this was on your first tree cut with the new bar he may have some sympathy -- possibly give you a discount on a new bar just to keep a customer happy. I wouldn't be too insistent on it, though. A dealer could lose his shirt replacing the bars of every customer who ends up with a bent one. (or every customer who runs a tankful of bad gas through the saw and needs it fixed).

[chugbug]

That would be better if they are shipped it in with just the powerhead as I could get any chain I want, if he has it .I'm going with a 16 '' bar , are there alot of choices on the bars ? I think I read there are two different designs one was a laminate don't remember the other . Also what chain would be a good all around chain for this saw ?

[sawguy21]

chug, I think you are referring to laminated vs solid bars. The laminated are cheaper and lighter but the sprocket tip is not replaceable, it goes south you are replacing the bar. The solid bars are more costly, have a replaceable tip and are preferred by the pros. They are not as common in the shorter lengths, especially with the .325 chain normally used on the 346.
We order saws with the most popular bar for each model, that would be 18" on the 346, but stock the 16" and 20" for those that want them. A good combo is the Oregon Microlite bar and 95VP chain which is 3/8"x .050". It cuts a narrow kerf and allows revs to stay up.

[chugbug]

Sawguy , I didn't know I could run a 3/8 chain on this saw as husky recomended .325  , what difference would I see.

[sawguy21]

That was a typo...err brain cramp.  Should read .325.

[NYH1]

SawTroll recommended that I go with the H21 (regular .325) chain over the H30 (.325 Pixel) chain on my NE 346XP.  When I bought my saw I asked my dealer if I could get it set up that way.  He said that the set up I wanted was actually what he would recommend on the NE 346XP.  He said the regular .325 chain seems to work better on the NE 346XP then the .325 pixel does because of the power increase.  He said on the 353, old 346XP and smaller saws the .325 pixel works better. 

I've never ran the H30 chain so all I could do was take their advice.  I've talked to a few other guys that have used both set ups and they agree with what SawTroll and my dealer told me.  I ended up going with a 16" bar and H21 .325/.058 chain.

Just my $0.02!

[SawTroll]

SawTroll recommended that I go with the H21 (regular .325) chain over the H30 (.325 Pixel) chain on my NE 346XP.  When I bought my saw I asked my dealer if I could get it set up that way.  He said that the set up I wanted was actually what he would recommend on the NE 346XP.  He said the regular .325 chain seems to work better on the NE 346XP then the .325 pixel does because of the power increase.  He said on the 353, old 346XP and smaller saws the .325 pixel works better. 

I've never ran the H30 chain so all I could do was take their advice.  I've talked to a few other guys that have used both set ups and they agree with what SawTroll and my dealer told me.  I ended up going with a 16" bar and H21 .325/.058 chain.

Just my $0.02!

Your dealer is right, as far as I know......

[chugbug]

Picked up my new 346xp yesterday and quess what ?? its a NON-EPA !!!!! I was real happy and surprised to see it come through that way . I took it right to the wood pile and tried it out !! The first thing that really stood out was how smooth it is , no vibration , next was how fast it cuts , so effortless , just buzz's right through the logs !! The only negative thing I noticed was maybe because its so aggressive the chain stopped a couple times , I'm not sure if its a lack of power or my handling of the saw or because its trying to cut so much and so fast and also I'm not use to the teeth on the saw for biting into the wood maybe I'm pinching the chain. When the chain stops a little rocking motion seems to get it going again . Or if I kind of hold it back a little it seems fine . What might be happening is I am so use to applying pressure to my old homelites to get them to cut that I am doing the same with this saw and didn't even realize it , next time I will just let the weight of the saw do the work ,any ideas??

[TexasTimbers]

. . . any ideas??

I'm pretty sure the best thing to do would be to send it me so I can compare how it stacks up to my 5100S.

[beenthere]

chugbug
Your experience is the similar to mine, when moving from a saw without antivibe (Stihl 041 '75) to my new saw (Stihl MS361 '04).

I was so used to the 'feel' of the chain cutting wood that the new saw didn't give me, that I felt I had to push to get that feeling. Then when I realized I was pushing too fast into the cut, things got better real fast. Took awhile to get used to not having that "feeling" in the hands and arms.

Also, check the rakers on the new chain. Mine came new with the rakers not well ground for the teeth. Found that out when taking the Game-of-Logging course, and the instructor was checking over everyone's saw. He was really looking for something to point out on mine, and it was the rakers not filed the same (nearly new chain).  Much smoother cutting when filed right using a guage.

[chugbug]

Nice try texas t. but I think I will hang onto it !! , Beenthere I think you probably hit the nail right on the head , I haven't got out again but it must be in the way it feels so different , next time out I'll let the saw do the work, no pushing and I will check out the rizers also, I think I have a old gauge laying around if not I will pick up a new one , maybe someone could tell me if the chain I got is alright , its the chain that came with it , marked husky not sure who makes them and its marked 25 on the chain , how do I tell exactly what chain it is

[SawTroll]

The only negative thing I noticed was maybe because its so aggressive the chain stopped a couple times .....

That saw doesn't bog easily - it has a lot of torque for its size - what bar&chain set-up do you have?       

[chugbug]

Sawtroll , At times it does seem to bog , I wish I could tell you more about the chain so you could tell me what it is , all I can tell you is it came with the saw ( meaning it didn't sound like they cut one out of a roll ) it does say husqvarna on it and the number 25 , what other info could I get for you , probably hard to no without seeing it . Could it be a saftey chain ??

[NYH1]

chugbug, you have a PM.

[ladylake]

Give it a few tanks of fuel, most saws wake up nice after 5 to 8 tanks.   Steve

[chugbug]

I asked the dealer today what chain he figured came with my NE 346xp and he said it was the oregon 33LG , does this sound right, if so they say its a good chain . Or is there something else out there thats better??

[sawguy21]

That is a chisel chain and a good choice for the 346.

[John Mc]

I thought the 33LG was replaced by the 20 series (20LP/21LP/22LP). Supposedly, the 20 series cuts faster than the 33LG chain: 6% faster bias cuts, 8% faster bucking cuts, 18% faster boring cuts (or so Oregon claims). I've not seen any 33LG at any of my local shops. Is there a reason to prefer one over the other?

Is 3/8 pitch chain too much for the NE346 (16" bar, cutting mainly hardwoods)?

John Mc

[sawguy21]

The 33 is the same size as the 20 but has extra guard links to reduce kickback.

[jokers]

The 33 is the same size as the 20 but has extra guard links to reduce kickback.

That would be 33SL wouldn`t it? The 33LG is like mini 3/8s LG, the LP has a large sloped guard link but it`s worlds better than the stuff with the huge guard link. BTW, the 33 is a vastly smaller tooth than the 20.

John,

Try some 20LP or Stihl RS before commiting to buying a new bar and sprocket in 3/8 pitch, you may be pleasantly surprised without spending too much money.

[SawTroll]

I thought the 33LG was replaced by the 20 series (20LP/21LP/22LP). Supposedly, the 20 series cuts faster than the 33LG chain: 6% faster bias cuts, 8% faster bucking cuts, 18% faster boring cuts (or so Oregon claims). I've not seen any 33LG at any of my local shops. Is there a reason to prefer one over the other?

......

As far as I know, the 30-series has been discontionued, but may still be in the "pipe-line".
 They are low-profile chain, and takes a smaller file than the 20-series. Oregon recommends the 20LP as a faster replacement for the 33LG (I use .058 gauge 21LP so far on mine - and it works really well).

If the bar is .050, I would have liked to try Stihl 23RSC as well.

[SawTroll]

The 33 is the same size as the 20 but has extra guard links to reduce kickback.

That would be 33SL wouldn`t it? The 33LG is like mini 3/8s LG, the LP has a large sloped guard link but it`s worlds better than the stuff with the huge guard link. BTW, the 33 is a vastly smaller tooth than the 20.

John,

Try some 20LP or Stihl RS before commiting to buying a new bar and sprocket in 3/8 pitch, you may be pleasantly surprised without spending too much money.

Totally agree (didn't see your post before posting).