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Author Topic: sliding barn door construction  (Read 14739 times)

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Offline ljmathias

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Re: sliding barn door construction
« Reply #20 on: April 03, 2008, 06:28:04 am »
Just came across a site that has great information- the Canada Plan Service at the address below:
http://www.cps.gov.on.ca/english/planmenu.htm

Look under "building engineering" for plan 9341 which details a barn sliding door.  Lots of other great information at this site and well worth bookmarking/saving.  I actually found this side over two years ago and then just forgot about it- had already downloaded the door plans but couldn't find it on my computer; so much for modern technology (or is it modern ability to multitask: the ability to do several things at the same time, all badly).

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 45 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

Offline thecfarm

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Re: sliding barn door construction
« Reply #21 on: April 03, 2008, 08:54:56 am »
That's just about how I do mine B and B too woodchuck.I use 10" boards and 4' batten.Looks real good.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor OWB

Offline OneWithWood

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Re: sliding barn door construction
« Reply #22 on: April 03, 2008, 09:59:46 am »
I used the plans lj linked to.  To keep the doors light enough to hang by myself I left the skin boards off until the frame was in place.  Then I used 1/2" sassafrass to keep the weight to a minimum.
One With Wood
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Offline jpgreen

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Re: sliding barn door construction
« Reply #23 on: April 03, 2008, 11:48:58 am »
Here's a thought....

Why not make your own track out of pipe or box tubing?

I'm envisioning say 3"-4" rectangle tubing or pipe cut longer than the length you need for a track. Clamp a straight edge to it for a guide so you can cut a nice 1/2" slot out with your cutting torch, or plasma cutter. Make the track pipe longer than needed so your don't have to cut clear to the ends.

Before you cut, pre-drill holes every 16" or so (above where your internal rollers would run), and install a bolt and nut on the 32" holes so when you cut, it can't warp out of shape.  Then use the other holes to lag screw or bolt onto your building.

You could fabricate rollers with 5/16" diameter eye bolts, and the appropriate sized wheels that fit inside the pipe, bolted to each side of the eye bolt.

Maybe pre made track and hangers are cheaper than this.  I don't know as I've never bought them.
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