Author Topic: Can I get a picture of the face of the swingblade in the vertical position (Read 2002 times)

abatol · « **on:** February 09, 2008, 08:25:02 am »

Can I get a picture of the face of the swingblade in the vertical position. mounted on the mill. I just want to see how its attached. what type of bolts . Maybe even a arbor pic would be nice. I think I 'll use a lucas type blade the price seems more reasonable . I pretty much have the whole thing figured out.
One thing I read about blade overcut in the swing mills has me stumped a little. It would seem that the distance from the center of the swing bearing or pivot point to the center of the kerf or blade has to be the same as the half diameter of your blade . If these two are the same why would there be a over cut. Its a square. thanks

Haytrader · « **Reply #1 on:** February 09, 2008, 06:33:01 pm »

Have you looked at the manufacturers websites?
Also check out some of the members photo gallery that have made thier own swingers.
In case you haven't seen it, there is a search option at the top of the page.

Firebass · « **Reply #2 on:** February 09, 2008, 08:06:56 pm »

theoreticly speaking you are right but any oversize in blade size or swing distance shows up in over cut grooves. I learned this the hard way and was able to shim by saw arbor out 1/8" which took care of the problem.

Firebass

Ianab · « **Reply #3 on:** February 09, 2008, 11:26:18 pm »

Some pics of the blade on my old Peterson that I posted while back

As you can see the blade is flush with the end of the arbor. It's located by the central hole and the raised central section of the arbor.

The bolts are high grade, counter sunk with hex heads so nothing projects. The bolts screw into the arbor itself and have nylock retaining nuts on the back of the arbor.

DONT cut corners in this part of the mill. Those bolts are probably the most important part of the mill safety wise. The only serious swingblade accident I know about was a guy that drilled out his blade and replaced those bolts with non-standard ones. The blade came off and you can imagine the rest!

Cheers

Ian

abatol · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2008, 12:09:29 am »

thanks alot thats what I wanted to see seems like a lot of stress on those bolts without a some help on the blade a d shape hole or somethimg but I know it works cuz it works. a lucas blade and arbor pic anyone

Firebass · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2008, 12:21:43 am »

Very well put Ian. I hate to imagine a blade coming off. I tried finding those super alloy bolts your talking about at my bolt supply and they are special order so I just buy them from Bailey's. They cost a dollar or so each but that's cheap for such a important part.

This is the best I can do for a picture of a Lucas Blade.

ironstumper · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2008, 02:15:37 am »

I have a Lucas 827. Can't help you right now. But I will try to remember and take some pics for you at the beginning of next week If nobody else has come thru by then..Doug

ironstumper · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2008, 04:06:13 pm »

Sorry it took so long. I've got my kids down visiting....Anyway here ya go. I hope they help. Nope by golly. The message said file size exceeded and my camera was on the lowest setting when I took the pictures. Anybody got a clue why?

ErikC · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2008, 04:33:58 pm »

Here is a few of the 8" peterson blade. Hope it helps.

Erik

Captain · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2008, 05:01:21 pm »

Hey, I think I recognize that blade....

Captain

abatol · « **Reply #10 on:** February 17, 2008, 12:47:10 am »

great arbor and blade shots . How big is that arbor shaft .It looks bigger than a 1"

ironstumper · « **Reply #11 on:** February 17, 2008, 02:04:55 am »

Here ya go Abatol.Thanx Furby for the pointers on the photos......

ironstumper · « **Reply #12 on:** February 17, 2008, 02:08:55 am »

This is what happens when you hit the post button before you're done...

StorminN · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2008, 05:36:23 am »

A couple of questions, guys...

What's the "normal" kerf of these swingblade blades? (Or is there no "normal"?)

What's the diameter, of say the blade for a 10" Peterson? Are they about 24"?

What's with the loooong gullet design of most of these blades? They look like the blades one would buy to cut fibre board... (like for doing tile work)

-Norm.

ironstumper · « **Reply #14 on:** February 17, 2008, 07:06:33 am »

StorminN, On the Lucas the kerf is 3/16". My 827 is designed for an 8" cut. Blade dia. 21" Don't have a clue why the design is the way it is on the blade.

zopi · « **Reply #15 on:** February 17, 2008, 08:49:16 am »

The gullets are probbly so deep because there is only, what, 4-6 teeth? more volume to carry the sawdust away during the cut.

sawdust · « **Reply #16 on:** February 17, 2008, 09:47:50 am »

search "dangerous_dan swing mill" he built a nice one.

would you measure to the center of the kerf or the outside?

Off to the motorcycle ice races today! We usually get a couple busted legs and some cuts from the studded tires.

sawdust

fencerowphil (Phil L.) · « **Reply #17 on:** February 17, 2008, 11:29:52 am »

StorminN
The Peterson 10" cut uses a 26" blade with eight bolt holes.
The kerf is 6.5 mm which comes out to about .26". There are
different width carbides you can use, depending on the desired
side clearance you need for the type wood you are cutting. For
example, fuzzy or sappy woods like Cottonwood or Pine supposedly fair
better with a wider tooth, so as to allow the body of the blade
to have more clearance. A clean cutting oak or maple might
do better with a narrower kerf, say 6.0 or 5.8mm.

I just use the wider kerf all the time.

I had a surprise this week, however. One of my 10-tooth blades
had been ground in such a way as to cheat me of almost 1/8" in
diameter. Because of that, I could not get the saw kerfs to meet
properly, unless I held my mouth just right. The keft alignment and
the blade diameter are very precise requirements!

Phil L.

StorminN · « **Reply #18 on:** February 17, 2008, 04:15:32 pm »

Hi guys,

Thanks for the info... I ask because I just got a 12-tooth, 10 gauge, 30" main blade for my Mobile Dimension in the mail on Friday... haven't had a chance to try it yet. Normally you run 1/4" teeth in it, but you can run 9/32" teeth, too. It made me wonder how thin of a kerf the swingers are, and how big of a diameter they were at, say 3/16" kerf... my "normal" main blade has been a 6-tooth, 8 gauge, 5/16" kerf... lots o' sawdust.

All my MD blades are inserted-tooth, so I guess that's why the gullets are the way they are (much smaller than the swingers), even though there are only 6 (or now 12) teeth.

Are the swinger blades measured in "gauge" thickness? If so, are they 10 or 12 gauge? About how many mm or in. thick is the body of the blade?

Thanks,
-Norm.

StorminN · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2008, 06:31:56 pm »

OK guys, I tried out the 12-tooth, 1/4" kerf blade and it works great.

I measured the blades, and the body of the 6-tooth, 30" blade is 0.172" thick (8 gauge), where the body of the 12-tooth, 30" blade is 0.150" thick (10 gauge). Anyone got any measurements on the thickness of the swinger blades (body, not teeth)?

-Norm.

abatol · « **Reply #20 on:** February 19, 2008, 09:58:02 pm »

These are some really cool up close pics . I've seen the gearbox direct connect to the blade and not /Plus those blade diameters answer a couple questions I had.. Can I get some pics of the swing handle or the mechanism that swings the blade and locks it in the vertical and horizontal position. I was thinking about two semi circles one with a cut out and a the other with a stud in it and when I swing the blade into any position between vertical (90 degrees) and horizontal (180 degrees) I can stop the the travel with a turn of a handle . I also like the side to side set works that allow you to move over a preset amount . over and over. so any pics or explanation of that is also appreciated.

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Author Topic: Can I get a picture of the face of the swingblade in the vertical position (Read 2002 times)