Author Topic: Getting ready for the Bio-Mizer (Read 22725 times)

Jeff · « **Reply #20 on:** January 19, 2008, 05:51:49 pm »

I'll be going to Central Boiler Monday. Rather then Tammy going back to work by herself, I'll go with her as central Boiler is just on the other side of town from where she drives. I'm sure I'll be done way before she is done driving, but I can take a nap in da truck.

I wonder if they will sell that pre-insulated pex stuff other then by 100ft. I only need less then 50. Maybe 30. I'll be measuring for sure tomorrow.

thecfarm · « **Reply #21 on:** January 19, 2008, 06:02:12 pm »

Just so you know,if you don't all ready,when my out door furnace was put in I told them the lenght and than they added on 10 feet.Just to make sure all of the bends and everything else is included.They than put it inside black drainage pipe to protect it too.They told me to put in expand foam into the black pipe to keep out the cold air where in went into the ground and where it came through the cellar wall.

Jeff · « **Reply #22 on:** January 26, 2008, 02:55:41 pm »

One more step closer to being ready for the Bio-Mizer. We have the pad ready for it to sit on. Its made up of 33- 4"solid 8x16 cement blocks. I scraped the snow down to the frozen ground, then Tammy and I drug them around 5 at a time in that poly sled. The snow was so deep and fluffy, that it was not any fun at all. I figured one trip and the snow would pack and get slippery. No such luck. Its to cold. Just a bunch of deep powder. Anyhow, this step is completed.

I was going to pick up all the other installation parts today, but that was put off until tomorrow.

farmerdoug · « **Reply #23 on:** January 26, 2008, 03:24:18 pm »

Looks good, Jeff.

I thought your son was going to help? But I guess Tammy worked in a pinch.

Jeff · « **Reply #24 on:** January 26, 2008, 03:46:22 pm »

As usual, he became unavailable. $:-\$ I'd rather work with Tammy anyhow. She's a lot tougher.

Jeff · « **Reply #25 on:** January 27, 2008, 04:37:39 pm »

Another step closer. However I have a prodem. I've never sweated copper joints before and the zone valve I got has sweat joints. I've also got to figure out how to wire it to the furnace and thermostat. Luckily the heat exchanger has threaded fittings already sweated on.

That Thermopex is heavier then I thought. Pretty rugged outer skin on it.

Reddog · « **Reply #26 on:** January 27, 2008, 04:57:31 pm »

Jeff, Shoot me a couple pics of the valve on both top and side.
I need to see how the valve comes apart. Then just clean it good with sand paper, then flux and solder. Use a MAPP gas tank. You will need the extra heat to get a good joint. Propane is hard to get hot enough.

Let me know, can always make a road trip with the tractor to set the boiler and bring a hvac guy to help with the install?

Wally

Jeff · « **Reply #27 on:** January 27, 2008, 05:20:35 pm »

Hey! That would be awesome! As soon as I find out when its coming I'll let everyone know. I figure we will have a Forestry Forum day. I'll make a big pot of soup or something. I've been trying to figureout how to set the boiler on top.

Jeff · « **Reply #28 on:** January 27, 2008, 05:20:53 pm »

I'll get some pics of the valve...

Jeff · « **Reply #29 on:** January 27, 2008, 05:28:55 pm »

stonebroke · « **Reply #30 on:** January 27, 2008, 05:39:38 pm »

How are you going to bury that line? Or are you going to cheat and leave it on top of the ground till spring. Also did you ever figure out what you are going to burn?

Stonebroke

Jeff · « **Reply #31 on:** January 27, 2008, 06:00:47 pm »

Its staying on top.

In the spring it gets rerouted to the pool so we can keep right on testing.

I have some sawdust here bagged up, but I think I'm going to be gettig some fuel from the elevator as well. As long as I can buy fuel for less then what it would cost me to use gas, I'm ok with that. I'm checking this week on a blend that would be half free. Distillers grain ground with corn cobs. The cobs are free, the grain is about 137 a ton. If I can get a ton of corn cobs mixed with the grain, that brings the price down to half of that. I still have the sawdust as a source, I'm just concerned about it being to green with as wet as this winter has been here. My job is a tester, so I',, be doing just that. Testing anything I can.

Reddog · « **Reply #32 on:** January 27, 2008, 07:10:20 pm »

Jeff,
Are you running Pex thru the valve or copper?
You should be able to get compression fittings to hook to the valve. But if using copper it is just another joint to leak. And would be better to sweat the joint.

Jeff · « **Reply #33 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:16:54 pm »

My plan was to run PEX for everything. The valve has sweat joints, how would I use compression fittings?

Jeff · « **Reply #34 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:19:42 pm »

I cant tell heads ot tails on this valve wiring. I'm looking at the schematics that came with it and I cant even find where it talks about black and blue wires.

This is the schematic the central boiler guy pointed me to and it dont make sense since the valve is so different.

http://www.centralboiler.com/Tech/C140.pdf

Reddog · « **Reply #35 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:21:50 pm »

The out side is turned smooth also. They would clamp right to it. If it was sweat only the out side would be rough.

Jeff · « **Reply #36 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:25:56 pm »

Ah, so I need something that goes over the valve, and into the pex? I just picked up a chunk of the pex, and no way is it going over the valve.

Reddog · « **Reply #37 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:35:25 pm »

So you may be able to get compression to barb fitting for the Pex.

Jeff · « **Reply #38 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:41:36 pm »

Here is what appears to be the same wiring diagram on the honeywell site as what came with my valve.
http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/60-0000s/60-2133.pdf

Any clue on how to read that thing? I still dont know what the heck what wire is what on the valve. the two black ones appear to go to the motor. the blue ones look like they go to some sort of switch. I'm not sure if its a switch.

Jeff · « **Reply #39 on:** January 27, 2008, 08:47:34 pm »

I just did find on the tag on the switch. Blue wires are "end switch" black wires are "Motor"

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Author Topic: Getting ready for the Bio-Mizer (Read 22725 times)