Author Topic: Siezed 394XP teardown help needed SOLVED (Read 8604 times)

Dave Shepard · « **on:** October 30, 2007, 06:25:29 pm »

I have decided to tackle the rebuild of my siezed 394XP. I took the muffler off and I can see very light scoring of the piston. I have tried to spin the flywheel to see if the piston would move at all, but no luck. How do I remove the jug without damaging it any further? I think the jug my be salvagable. I was quoted $600 to replace complete top end and crank seals.

That is out of budget, (I can get a new 24" 660 for $900), but if I can get away with a new piston, gaskets and seals and do the work myself, I'll give it a try. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Whether or not I do this depends on what is involved, and the availability of parts. I was offered a very good deal by one of our members for a porting/rebuild job, but if I can get it running in stock form for now, I need to pursue that option. Thanks.

Dave

sawguy21 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 30, 2007, 11:27:27 pm »

It sounds like the piston may not be the problem if there is only light scoring. Possibly a crank bearing has failed. Disconnect the choke and throttle linkage, remove the four cylinder hold down screws with a T-handle allen key and remove the cylinder if you can. If it is jammed you may need to stick a punch through the spark plug hole and break up the piston.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #2 on:** October 30, 2007, 11:50:16 pm »

Thanks, I didn't try too hard to turn it over, I didn't want to make it any worse. From the dirtbikes I've worked on, I think it is the piston, but I'll know more when I take it apart. I don't have a reason yet as to why the motor failed, but from talking to a few people, I have heard that this model Husky is prone to fuel line failure, leaning out the engine. I would at least like to find a cause, the saw is very low hours, and was properly maintained/proper fuel.

Dave

CALSAW · « **Reply #3 on:** October 31, 2007, 12:51:41 am »

If you decide to rebuild it yourself Bailey's should have the parts.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #4 on:** October 31, 2007, 03:18:58 pm »

I pulled the jug off, and the piston slid right out. The bore has a little bit of discoloration from the aluminum, but most of it wiped off with my fingers. The piston is toast, so I think I can get away with a new piston and rings. Is running a cylinder hone very lightly through the jug ok? I still have to chase the gas lines to see if they are ok, still looking for a reason for the failure. Crank bearings seem ok at a glance. More at 11:00 o'clock, as they say on the news.

Dave

sawguy21 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 31, 2007, 04:28:39 pm »

Just clean off any aluminum and check for scratches that catch a fingernail. Honing it will ruin the coating.

ladylake · « **Reply #6 on:** October 31, 2007, 08:18:13 pm »

What was keeping it from turning before if the jug slid right off? Are you sure the bearing aren't binding up ? Steve

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #7 on:** October 31, 2007, 11:30:19 pm »

I don't know why it slid apart, probably the aluminum broke free when I started pulling on the jug. Sayguy, so the nickasil is applied after the final honing of the cylinder? That may be a problem. The bore doesn't seem to have any serious damage, but there is some aluminum stuck to it, not sure how I should clean it. The bearings feel fine, the crank turns freely now. CALSAW, you mentioned Baileys, do they stock parts not listed in the catalog? If I have to spend $450 on a new top end and gaskets etc., I may reconsider the Stihl, I now have a lead on 660's with bar and chain for $800.

Dave

CALSAW · « **Reply #8 on:** October 31, 2007, 11:50:54 pm »

Dave, Bailey's has a lot more than is listed in the catalog!
394 piston kits are on sale now for 29.95, that must be for aftermarket.
You can check online, but I would recomend calling them. They are great.

I have an '89 394, still running strong, with who knows how many 100's of hours on it.
I bought it used from a logging company in Washington, so I don't think it was babyed.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #9 on:** November 01, 2007, 12:48:31 am »

Wow, I woldn't have thought I could get this saw up and running that cheaply. I wish I had torn it apart sooner. Still the matter of the questionable jug though. $:-\$

Dave

ladylake · « **Reply #10 on:** November 01, 2007, 04:35:01 am »

Dave Muratic acid will eat the aluminum away with out harming the cylinder. Snowmobilers use it quite a bit. It's sold at hardware stores and lumber yards used for cleaning brick. Don't get it on anything else, maybe use a Q tip to apply. Steve

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #11 on:** November 01, 2007, 09:46:51 am »

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I'm excited to think I can get my favorite saw back. Any way to check the crank seals? Or do I have to put it back together and do a compression test? Thanks.

Dave

sawguy21 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 01, 2007, 10:30:59 am »

Now that you have gone this far, why not replace them anyway. You don't want a bad seal to cause a second failure.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #13 on:** November 01, 2007, 07:21:07 pm »

I am guessing the hardest part of that is going to be getting the flywheel off, right? Any special tools needed? Thanks.

Dave

Kevin · « **Reply #14 on:** November 01, 2007, 08:04:51 pm »

Once the nut is removed you may need a set of pullers.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #15 on:** November 01, 2007, 08:42:53 pm »

I've got lots of pullers, probably 200 pounds of them. (It's easier to quantify them in pounds than to try and count them, we've got lots.)

Dave

sawguy21 · « **Reply #16 on:** November 01, 2007, 10:56:16 pm »

Remove the nut and washer then run the nut in until it is flush with the end of the crank. Put some pressure under the edge of the flywheel in line with the key with a screwdriver then give said crank a sharp , I said SHARP boy, smack with a hammer. The taper fit should come loose without wrecking anything.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #17 on:** November 01, 2007, 11:55:36 pm »

While I've got this thing apart, any suggestions on opening it up a little? You guys must have known this was the next step, right?

I'd like to do something with the muffler, possible polish things up, if it isn't too involved. I have time, it gets dark real quick these days.

I'm not trying to make a crazy saw, but I have heard that it will run cooler with a little work. Thanks.

Dave

leweee · « **Reply #18 on:** November 02, 2007, 10:46:40 am »

Dave you need to talk to Ed Heard (EHP) one of our fellow members.

EHP

arojay · « **Reply #19 on:** November 03, 2007, 11:24:09 am »

My 394 seized once. It was about 3 years old and I had only used it for bucking up until a couple of weeks before the seize. I had started to use it for felling and cutting stumps low in some bigger timber. Well, I made a cut and shut it down and when I tried to start again it had seized. It was just about dark, so I put it in the truck and went home. Took it in the shop and gave it a pull. Round it goes. Hmmm. Next morning I started it outside the shop, seemed OK so in the truck and off to the bush. Went to start it and it is seized. Hmmm is a little milder than what I really said. Back in the shop that night I start to take the jug off and find that the wrist pin is hanging out and hooked into a port and has gouged up the wall. No sign of keepers in the jug, the muffler or anywhere. I put it back together and took it into the dealer for their mechanic to look at because I figure it was a bit of a warranty case. They balked a bit because I had started to tear it down but I made a bit of a case for the keepers to have been missing all along and ended up with about half of the rebuild cost returned to me from Husqvarna.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #20 on:** November 05, 2007, 03:04:10 pm »

I took a picture of the jug, not sure you can really tell to much just from the picture though. There just appears to be some aluminum stuck to the bore, no scratches that you can feel.

We discussed honing the bore earlier, and it was decided it was a bad idea. I see Baileys has a half a page dedicated to cylinder hones for chainsaws, are those hones not as aggresive? Thanks.

Dave

ladylake · « **Reply #21 on:** November 05, 2007, 05:21:49 pm »

Dave I've always honed when putting in new rings and pistons, sure looks like your cylinder was honed in the first place as I think I can see the cross hones. Muratic acid should take the aluminum off, dab a little on and let it sit for a while, it eats it away (works really good on rust too). I'd take some really fine sandpaper and sand a little around the darker area. Can you put a picture of the top of the piston, should be able to tell if it was running lean from that. The top of the chamber looks pretty light to me.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #22 on:** November 05, 2007, 10:05:45 pm »

Here is a shot of the piston. It looks a little blacker in person.

Dave

joe_indi · « **Reply #23 on:** November 06, 2007, 04:16:24 am »

Dont hone it.
Use Muratic acid.Muratic acid is actually hydrochloric diluted to 25% strength.
I use hydrochloric acid as it is.Works faster.
Soak a cotton bud with the acid and keep rubbing it on the aluminum till it turns black in color.
Wash off the acid with water and use waterproof silicon carbide paper (used in paint shops)to remove the aluminum.This is altogether a 5 minute job.
Dry the jug in the sun or top of any warm surface.
By the way, looking at the color of the side ports and deposits on the piston top in the images, I think you need to change your brand of two stroke oil.

Joe

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #24 on:** November 06, 2007, 12:41:46 pm »

I use Stihl Premium mix oil, at 50:1, have been using it I first started running two stroke equipment, and that is what we always have used where I first started doing landscape work. Probably have run 75 different powertools on the stuff, and this is the first failure.

Dave

ladylake · « **Reply #25 on:** November 06, 2007, 06:29:33 pm »

By the looks of the piston it might have leaned out right at the end, pretty decent carbon deposits that look a little white around the edge. More than likely a air leak somewhere or not enough fuel. It's kind of odd why it scored only on one half of the exhaust port, most I've seen have been centered. Any ideas on that? Sure wouldn't worry about the tarnish on the transfer ports, most I've seen are that color unless it's almost new. Steve

ladylake · « **Reply #26 on:** November 18, 2007, 10:09:15 am »

Dave Did you get the 394 running yet or have you been loafing too much like me? Steve

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #27 on:** November 19, 2007, 03:45:00 pm »

Nah, not running yet. It's been raining/snowing in my garge lately.

I am going to try and wash the aluminum out with some acid, if it looks promising, then I'll order piston, rings, and gaskets. Maybe a carb kit as well, it's been sitting since 9/04. I've got my Husky 66 running, forgot what a nice saw it is, aside from mediocre mounts that is. I'll keep everyone posted. I was thinking of doing some port/polish work on the 394, but will probably just get it running first and see how it goes.

Dave

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #28 on:** September 18, 2008, 11:04:25 pm »

Ordered parts from Bailey's not two minutes ago. Piston kit, carb kit, fuel filter, fuel line, a wedge pouch, and shipping, $75.

Didn't see crank seals, so I will have to stop in at the dealer, probably more than the rest of the parts combined.

Only thing I can find that might have caused the blow up is a cracked fuel line, but the saw has been sitting for exactly four years, so that doesn't mean much. I took the carb apart. Surprisingly the gaskets and diaphragm were in excellent condition, and it was absolutely spotless inside. I ordered the kit anyway.

Can't wait!!

Been a while since I've run a saw that runs.

Dave

Rocky_J · « **Reply #29 on:** September 18, 2008, 11:15:55 pm »

Bailey's doesn't have the capacity to put up all their parts on the website. Seriously, call them first thing in the morning and they can probably add those crank seals to the order if you still want them.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #30 on:** September 19, 2008, 09:26:16 am »

This question of to hone or not to hone comes up often . The reason a cast iron cylinder is honed is to deglaze the metal so the new rings seat easier . In the case of a chrome or hard nickle lining it's just to clean up the tramp aluminum .

You can get the same results on a plated lining with just a 3M Scotch-brite pad and kerosine .The Scotch -Brite is not so absasive as to harm the plating and will just remove the aluminum residue . That said though do as you please on this matter .

Now the rest of the saw .If that thing pulled any aluminum into the crankcase you take a chance of fouling a bearing and thus causing problems at a later date .While it's apart it wouldn't be a bad idea to just change out the bearings and seals .Then again,that's up you but at least take the time to inspect the bearings before reassembley .Definately change the seals ,cheap insurance .

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #31 on:** September 19, 2008, 09:45:54 pm »

I ordered the seals today as well. All parts should be in early next week. Should I split the case to inspect the bearings? There is a case gasket in the kit, but I've never split one before, and don't know what's involved. Thanks.

Dave

sawguy21 · « **Reply #32 on:** September 19, 2008, 09:54:06 pm »

There is a puller available but you can do it with a heat gun and a dead blow hammer. After heating around the bearing, hold the crankcase half and tap the end of the shaft. It should separate fairly easily.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #33 on:** September 20, 2008, 08:10:43 pm »

I cleaned out the aluminum from the jug a few minutes ago. I used muriatic acid. I was a little nervous when the bottle started giving off vapors and I hadn't even broken the seal yet.

It bubbled the almuninum right off the jug. There is still a little scoring, I tried sanding with some 180SC paper, but it didn't seem to do anything. I can't feel the scratches so I'm hoping it's all right.

Before:

After:

Any suggestions for torqueing the jug and case halves etc.? Also any assembly procedures for the wrist pin clips and rings would be helpful. Thanks.

I just noticed the start date of this thread. It looks like I might actually finish a project in under a year.

Dave

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #34 on:** September 22, 2008, 06:11:37 am »

Dave , bearings and seals are available at a good supply house cheaper than husky.I put the bearings on the crank with an arbor press.Before you press anything on the crank make a wedge to put in the gap on the crank throw so as not to spring the crank.What I used was a nut with the face ground to a slight taper,tapped into the gap.From your last pictures it still looks like aluminum, if that won't come off with muriatic, possibly its worn through the hard coat,if so you would have to replace the jug.Frank C.

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #35 on:** September 22, 2008, 08:52:22 am »

Gday

Looks like Your doing a top job there Dave

this how I usually tackle a problem like Yours after inspecting it in the shed to make sure it somthing terminal I pick it up walkover to My ute put the saw in the back jump in the ute and drive the 35miles to my chainsaw shop take it out put it on the counter and say what will You give Me of on that as a trade in

walk out 15min later with a New Saw

Ive just saved $100 to $250 cash on with some extras thrown in

To easy .

Reguards Chris
p.s Ive only traded about 2 saws sofar the rest just seem to keep running apart from the 3120 xp Ive had since I was 14 it blew up the other day

it was on its 2nd rebuild and its done a power of work for me it was a double DanG good saw

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #36 on:** September 22, 2008, 12:05:49 pm »

bandmiller, there are just a few scratches there, the muriatic acid ate all the aluminum away. I can't feel any of the scratches with my fingernail, so I'm going to use it. If it blows, I'm out ~$60. Then I'll find a top end kit from Bailey's. Seals should be here today.

Meadows Miller, I don't think I've ever traded anything in before, never anything left when I'm done with it.

Dave

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #37 on:** September 22, 2008, 11:21:57 pm »

Gday Dave

Most of the chainsaw shops If you have been dealing with them awhile will give you a pretty good discount Dad and My Grandfather and I have brought chainsaws and supplys from this paticular shop since they opend they usually give Me a double DanG good discount on chain and bars and all the other goodys that we need usually 10 to 20% and sometimes when You have allredy paid for what You need and remember somthing little like a pack of files ::)and I grab them and go upto the counter to pay They say dont worry about a little thong like that We will get it out of You on the next new saw You buy

then They give me a discount on that

The owner is retierd His Sons run it now but Ive talked to Him on the odd occasion and He says that he couldnt remember how many saws He has sold to our family over the years but it was alot .
Its good to deal with Nice People I dont try to screw them down on price and I appreciate when They do take a bit off the top .

Like You Dave My saws dont have anything left in them or they are just a pile of parts Its funny when You walk in to the shop with a box of parts and they say so We have got another trade in Chris !! Yep !

Reguards Chris

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #38 on:** September 23, 2008, 05:47:47 am »

Dave, a few light scratches I wouldn't worry.Working on the lower end is not hard as long as things are not forced.I bought a husky 365 at the tractor pull in Brooklin CT.years ago for $3.50 for parts it was flat a$$ worn out the rings were thin as hose clamps and the cylinder had a frosted look.Replaced the bearings and seals I got locally new piston and rings.It still runs strong so much comp. I have to drop start it.Whoever had used that saw didn't tend to the air cleaner,or took it off. Frank C.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #39 on:** September 23, 2008, 07:41:57 pm »

Looks like I won't be putting this together this week.

Oredered parts thursday night (so really friday). They didn't ship til yesterday, and now FedEx says they won't be here until the 29th.

The last thing I had shipped by UPS ground (the cheapest) arrived the next day. I've heard that FedEx was slow, and they probably won't deliver without a signature

. Next time I'll have the big brown truck come.

Dave

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #40 on:** September 23, 2008, 11:13:26 pm »

Alright, anyone want to let me in on whatever secret voodoo ceremony is required to split the case on this thing? It came apart about a 1/4", and won't budge. I don't want to shatter the case. Hopefully it isn't too complicated a ceremony, I don't burn incense, or sacrifice goats.

Dave

Rocky_J · « **Reply #41 on:** September 23, 2008, 11:19:04 pm »

Maybe Al or somebody can give you some insight. I've never split a case in my life, I would end up destroying the crank bearings if I tried. IMO if the bottom end is ok then run it, if not then junk it.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #42 on:** September 23, 2008, 11:29:14 pm »

Well, hopefully Al will know, he's the one who suggested checking the bearings.

The jug has been off since this thread was started, so there's a few wood shavings, a smidgeon of dirt, and who knows what else down in there. It's got to come apart for cleaning anyway. I can see that the bearings are what's holding it together, but I don't know how to get them out of the case halves. Thanks.

Dave

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #43 on:** September 24, 2008, 06:02:08 am »

Dave, thats normal on splitting the case much better than having it fall apart,fight the temptation to pry with screwdrivers mayby a couple of wooden wedges to apply a little tension,as sawguy says heatgun and tap with a soft face hammer.Frank C.

Captain · « **Reply #44 on:** September 24, 2008, 06:44:03 am »

My 372 came apart hard as well. The bearings are pressed on the crankshaft.

Captain

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #45 on:** September 29, 2008, 07:53:23 pm »

The heatgun worked great. Unfortunately it revealed bad bearings.

They feel like they're full of gravel. Will be making another order from Bailey's. I'll be using UPS this time, however, I'd like to hear this thing run in the next year. Anyone toruque these things when they go back together?

Dave

Rocky_J · « **Reply #46 on:** September 29, 2008, 07:57:42 pm »

If there's no torque specs in the service guide, then just use German specs (guut-n-tite).

I'd probably use a threadlocker on the case screws as well.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #47 on:** January 10, 2009, 07:06:47 pm »

I've got bearings on the way, and the dealer loaned me his case splitter. I'm going to buy one, $65 is worth it. It looks like it pulls the bearings off the crank, but I'm not sure. If so, then I can just press them out on the press. I'm going to polish and widen the ports, open up the muffler, and see if I can set the squish at around .020". I know it sounds like I know what I'm talking about, but don't believe it for a minute.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #48 on:** January 10, 2009, 11:53:01 pm »

I was apprehensive about the ability of the case splitter, but this YouTube I found on another forum says it all. It took me two painful hours to split the case without it, and I messed up the threads on the crank. Aside from having to disassemble every last nut and bolt to split, it looks pretty easy in the video.

stonebroke · « **Reply #49 on:** January 10, 2009, 11:57:19 pm »

You could build one of those case splitters in less then two hours .

Stonebroke

Rocky_J · « **Reply #50 on:** January 10, 2009, 11:59:28 pm »

You haven't finished that saw yet, Dave? Whatcha waiting for, an epiphany?

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #51 on:** January 11, 2009, 12:00:22 am »

Yes, if you had the right tools. You'd need a long fine thread Gr.8 bolt, a couple of nuts, and some way to put a nice point on it.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #52 on:** January 11, 2009, 12:05:34 am »

I'll send you some of my cold weather.

It's DanG cold in my garage at the moment, about 10, and will be below zero next week. I kept trying to talk myself into just putting it back together with the old bearings, but it just isn't worth the risk of a bearing failure. The last time I worked on it, I screwed up one of the new seals, and after the battle I had getting it apart, I almost smashed the thing on the anvil to put it out of its misery.

I thought better of it, and decided to just cool off and get to it some other time. I've learned enough about porting and polishing that I'm going to give it a try. Should be a pretty DanG good saw when I'm done. Using my 66 and the 266 at work is amusing for a little while, but the novelty has worn off. It's time to make some chips!

Cadenhill · « **Reply #53 on:** January 12, 2009, 06:46:26 pm »

hi Dave,
If you don't mind sharing? Who makes the case splitter and are they available?I surely could use one for a project?
Good luck with your saw

Regards
Jim

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #54 on:** January 12, 2009, 08:26:45 pm »

They are in the Husky catalog. There are three or four sizes. The big one covers most all saws, and I think there are special ones for 357xp, 346xp and maybe one other. Retail price was $65.

Reddog · « **Reply #55 on:** January 12, 2009, 08:41:33 pm »

Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 11, 2009, 12:05:34 am

I'll send you some of my cold weather. It's DanG cold in my garage at the moment, about 10, and will be below zero next week.

Whats wrong with the kitchen table?

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #56 on:** January 12, 2009, 09:03:07 pm »

Quote from: Reddog on January 12, 2009, 08:41:33 pm

Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 11, 2009, 12:05:34 am
I'll send you some of my cold weather. It's DanG cold in my garage at the moment, about 10, and will be below zero next week.

Whats wrong with the kitchen table?

He might have a missus that wont stand for that type of behaviour

Dave I might have to take you up on that offer mate I could do with some Nice COOL Weather we could do a strait trade My fine sunny and a dang Hot around 110 for the next few days Shipping is the responability of the reciveing party No warrantys Given or Implyed

Chris

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #57 on:** January 12, 2009, 09:22:07 pm »

Quote from: Reddog on January 12, 2009, 08:41:33 pm

Quote from: Dave Shepard on January 11, 2009, 12:05:34 am
I'll send you some of my cold weather. It's DanG cold in my garage at the moment, about 10, and will be below zero next week.

Whats wrong with the kitchen table?

Who said I don't have other projects on the kitchen table?

I could use some 110 weather for the next couple of days, going to be -10 later in the week. We do a lot of different stuff at work, and it's more productive to work indoors than to try and make machinery work when it's that cold. It can be done, but it comes with a price.

Cadenhill · « **Reply #58 on:** January 13, 2009, 08:31:41 am »

Thanks Dave for sharing the info. I am tired of fighting cases.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #59 on:** January 14, 2009, 05:57:38 pm »

Alright, so I need to pull the piston to use the case buster, any tips on getting the clips out? I think the stock ones had a bend in them that you could grab with pliers, but not the replacements ones. I started to prod at them with a twisted pick, but I gave up on account of the frostbite on my nose.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #60 on:** January 23, 2009, 09:49:47 pm »

It took almost 15 months, but I finished a project. I had to split the case twice, buy seals twice,

hand make a woodruff key, and search nooks and crannies for an hour to find all the parts, but the DanG thing Lives!

I have had absolutely every piece of this apparatus in my hands at least twice, and managed to get it all back together without any leftover parts. I'd never have believed it possible in the beginning.

sawguy21 · « **Reply #61 on:** January 23, 2009, 10:03:19 pm »

All well and good but does it run?

Just giving ya a hard time Dave, it looks good. Well done.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #62 on:** January 23, 2009, 10:15:53 pm »

It sure does run! I set the carb to factory baseline, and it idles and revs up well. It'll need some fine tuning, but it is DanG close straight off. It's been 52 months since it blew up. I hope that is not going to set a precedent for project completion.

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #63 on:** January 23, 2009, 10:20:23 pm »

Gday

Dave with all the time and hard work that you have put into it id just like to say a big congrats on a Top Job Mate

Chris

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #64 on:** January 23, 2009, 10:28:55 pm »

Thanks. There were a couple of times that I wondered why I was doing it, but in the end, it was for the same reason as always. Now I know how to do it.

I've probably got ten hours in the project, between searching the farm for the strewn parts, or scrubbing the grime off the parts, but it was well spent. I'm looking for the next basket case. I'll have a different approach next time. I'll have all my tools ready, and a good clean work station. I'm sure if I was to do it again, with the right tools this time, I could do the whole job in maybe 4-5 hours. I'd get a long hex bit for the cordless drill, however.

The real fun starts tomorrow, when I sink it into some wood.

beenthere · « **Reply #65 on:** January 23, 2009, 11:02:50 pm »

Good job. So much fun the first time ya had ta do it twice ??

Now, just don't go out tomorrow and back over it with the tractor....jus for fun.

sharkey · « **Reply #66 on:** January 26, 2009, 11:08:31 pm »

How did it run under a load?

I always go back over the bolts and tighten them a second time. If Im not exactly sure how something will work out I dont tighten the bolts real super tight when Im putting them back in. Sure enough I always loose a couple from vibration if I dont go back over them. I dislike loctite, so that may be some of my problem.

Thanks,
Bob

Ironwood · « **Reply #67 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:22:59 pm »

Loose bolt are common on those screamers anyway. Ironwood

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #68 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:26:03 pm »

394 a screamer? You must be hanging out with Al_Smith.

It's going to get some port and polish after I work it this winter. Going to lose the base gasket too. Got to fix the no spark problem, however. It wouldn't fire up yesterday.

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #69 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:44:31 pm »

Gday

that would'nt have been fun mate

been there myself just alittle more tweekage needed hey

Chris

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #70 on:** January 28, 2009, 08:32:31 am »

Dave, your dues have been paid,each one you do now will be easier.Bearings and seals can usally be found at a good supply house alot cheaper than dealers.I think I've got a 394 a friend gave me low comp., but free you inspired me to pull it apart,too much snow for anything else.Frank C.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #71 on:** January 28, 2009, 07:09:13 pm »

I put a new plug in it and pulled the wire to the kill switch and it lit right off.

Might be the wire was bad, I don't know. Bearings were 12.24 each and seals I think were 14 each, and that's from Husky dealer, who is also fastest at getting parts. So bearings and seals is around $50. If you get frustrated with that ole 394, I know a good home for it.

So, I thought I had no left over pieces, well, I found an odd hard plastic tube on the floor, and the saw leaks oil like a sieve. I don't recall ever having been introduced to said line, so I must do some investigating. I think it must be a vent line, inside the oil tank, which means I've either got to install it through the oil cap hole, or reverse the previous procedure, and split the saw again.

$:-\$

I wouldn't have minded so much if the part I left off was something on the outside, like maybe a bar not or something.

Maineloggerkid · « **Reply #72 on:** January 28, 2009, 07:34:00 pm »

Well, even at my age I have learned one thing- nothing is ever simple, is it?

Rocky_J · « **Reply #73 on:** January 28, 2009, 07:46:17 pm »

You mean you're not supposed to have leftover parts?

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #74 on:** January 28, 2009, 07:53:54 pm »

No, I don't think there are supposed to be any, except the ones replaced. I looked up the part on the IPL, and it's a breather tube. I think I can stuff it in the oil hole. I'm hoping anyway.

sablatnic · « **Reply #75 on:** January 29, 2009, 12:50:30 pm »

You are right . Sounds like the breather-tube for the oil-tank.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #76 on:** January 29, 2009, 01:47:13 pm »

Welcome to the Forestry Forum sablatnic!

I was able to take the bar off and shove the tube in the hole from the outside. It has a little metal ferrule on the end, and it just sits in there, an interference fit. Now it hopefully won't leak an entire tank of oil out on the bench.

It's making spark, don't know if it's got a crack in the coil, and it quits when it gets wet, or what the deal is. I'm off to run it in some big maple butt logs. We'll see.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #77 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:49:58 pm »

So I've run the saw about a dozen tanks so far, and it appears to be way too rich. It is running the factory spec 12,500 no load with the 32" bar, but I'm getting a very black plug. I run 93 octane and Stihl synthetic oil. I'm wondering whether it's the high speed of low speed that is out of adjustment. It's got a little bog off of idle that I'd like to get rid of. It is definitely four stroking hard out of the cut, but pulls like a diesel in the wood.

Ironwood · « **Reply #78 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:53:18 pm »

Wait until it's two strok'in out of the cut!!

Ironwood (394XP x 2

)

yonder · « **Reply #79 on:** March 02, 2009, 04:07:18 am »

Dave;
I had a good huskvarna go bad--seize up--because the jet screw was set to run at a high rpm which made it run too lean, also a piston can be damaged using a (champion) cj14 spark plug when the saw should have a cj8, if you use it for long hours.--Yonder

ladylake · « **Reply #80 on:** March 02, 2009, 05:34:16 am »

For the bog off idle open the low adjuster 1/8 to 1/4 turn, that should get rid of it. You might have to adjust the idle speed a little higher as that will slow it down. Sounds like you could turn the high in a little going by the plug, make sure to check after a hard cut as idleing turns them black pretty fast. Keep in mind for a work saw a little rich( just so long as they clean up when cutting) is better than a little lean. They will have a better power band on the rich side. Steve

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #81 on:** March 02, 2009, 06:10:48 am »

Dave,my 394 is all apart and cleaned waiting on Baileys ,pistons were out of stock.Have a 24" bar and spun up a new chain.Sometimes the ignition seems fickled looks like no spark or a thin weak one.I think its just too fast to see.Got to work on my 365 wont idle down might be sucking wind, something loose.Frank C.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #82 on:** April 10, 2009, 07:28:53 pm »

Today was the big test for the saw. I've run about 15 tanks through it with only one problem, a plogged tank vent. Got that blown out, and it's been absolutely reliable since then. I had a big sycamore to quarter so I could mill it. Ran great, no strange noises, and best of all, it didn't blow up.

I was running square chisel full skip, and I could really bear down on it in the cut with no problems. Very happy with my $126 complete overhaul.

This was a 10' log, 44"x39". Took about an hour, and two tanks of fuel, including layout and a couple of sharpenings due to a couple of rock encounters.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #83 on:** April 10, 2009, 07:43:31 pm »

Dave,I'd say that was A proof load for that overhaul.How do you sharpen that square chisel chain? have you mastered the hand file? frank C.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #84 on:** April 10, 2009, 08:20:32 pm »

I used a Pferd double-bevel file. I think I've got the hang of hand filing. I rocked it pretty good twice, and was able to get it cutting again pretty easily, but when that square chain gets dull, it stops cutting even a little bit.

The square filed chain seemed to work quite well in a ripping mode.

Rocky_J · « **Reply #85 on:** April 10, 2009, 10:21:50 pm »

Yup, since I'm making a stump cut almost every time I pull out the big saw, I've given up on trying to keep a square filed edge on the chain. It dulls out in 2-3 cuts on average and then I can't even finish the tree unless I stop and file or swap saws. I'm using a round file on my square ground chain from the get-go. It cuts faster than standard round ground chisel when new and the round filing holds an edge longer than square filing.

On the bright side, all those double bevel files I bought for the square ground chain work great for filing rakers.

Al_Smith · « **Reply #86 on:** April 11, 2009, 09:49:07 am »

A little trick on ripping is to hold your angle at between 30 and 45 degrees to the log rather than straight across . Hold it just short of pulling long Frence fry type chips or else it will clog up . You should be able to make about a foot a minute in 18" stuff with a large enough saw .

Square filed works great for contests of speed and most likely for the softer woods of the PNW .It's not real good on eastern hardwoods though . When it gets dull it just flat out quits cutting ,plain and simple .

Fact is I'm working on two "trick" chains right now for speed runs but that is all they will be used for .Not worth a shake of a lambs tail for much else .

DR_Buck · « **Reply #87 on:** April 11, 2009, 11:47:17 am »

Quote from: bandmiller2 on March 02, 2009, 06:10:48 am

Dave,my 394 is all apart and cleaned waiting on Baileys ,pistons were out of stock.Have a 24" bar and spun up a new chain.Sometimes the ignition seems fickled looks like no spark or a thin weak one.I think its just too fast to see.Got to work on my 365 wont idle down might be sucking wind, something loose.Frank C.

Had the same problem with my 385 last year. Turned out to be a pin-hole in the fuel line. Probably from ethanol.

repleaced the line and all was good.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #88 on:** May 24, 2011, 05:36:26 pm »

RIP:

Circlip took a hike.

05_sprcrw · « **Reply #89 on:** May 25, 2011, 08:24:31 am »

Ouch! The picture on the bottom isn't clear but can the jug be saved? If not would you be willing to send it my way to practice porting before I port my 394?

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #90 on:** May 25, 2011, 09:17:34 am »

Gday

Sorry to see she gave up the ghost on you Mate

Regards Chris

aquan8tor · « **Reply #91 on:** July 16, 2011, 05:19:15 pm »

Can you give an update on the saw? Also, its hard to tell from the picture what happened to the piston. I have a 394 that you've inspired me to try and re-tackle. There may be hope for it yet...

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #92 on:** July 16, 2011, 06:37:33 pm »

Welcome to the Forum!

I have not done anything with the saw. If I do, I will probably buy a new OEM top end from Bailey's, as the jug is not salvageable.

The wrist pin came out of the piston and caught on the port, breaking the pin boss of the piston. I've added a few poorly drawn red arrows to the pic:

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #93 on:** July 16, 2011, 09:21:04 pm »

Yip, I seen them cracks. So the snap ring came off the piston pin and out she worked from the piston. DOH! $:-\$

That'll be about $90 please.

News:

Author Topic: Siezed 394XP teardown help needed **SOLVED** (Read 8604 times)

Author Topic: Siezed 394XP teardown help needed SOLVED (Read 8604 times)