4 head molder question

[Mike_M]

Does wood out of the kiln need to be surfaced with a jointer before it is run into a 4 head planer? I am thinking if the material is not straight or has cup or twist. I'm still learning about these machines and was curious if the 4 head moulder replaces a jointer?  Thanks for any input.

[David Freed]

   On the Logosol you can send a blank through up to 1/4" over the finished size; 1/8" is better. To answer your question, yes you can run rough lumber through it if it is fairly flat and not too thick. We usually have to plane our lumber down to the proper thickness for the blanks we are using (1/8' over). As a side note I do not have a jointer in my shop. Never have needed one.     David

[Mike_M]

Thanks for the reply. It would probably be nice to have a jointer just for those boards that need a little help.

[Don P]

The older push feed molders are pretty much just like a planer, smash it flat, shape it, it springs back on the back side. The shop I worked in that had one also had a facer. It was replaced by a new through feed molder that had soft infeed and bottom head first with a long, height adjustable, jointer bed infeed. The first head also cut a rabbet on the right side that served as a straight line to ride the fence to the next head which was right side. The feeds then were after the left side before the top head, then one rubber feed after that. That one went to a bolt on universal 5th head. So the more modern machine faced and jointed within reason. I did have to keep an eye on the accuracy within the pack and preplane thick boards.

[Brad_S.]

The first head on most moulders is the bottom head and acts as a jointer would.

[trim4u2nv]

The wood will feed better and yield better results if you preprocess it on a 4 head planer.  A roughing (top/bottom) planer such as newman, whitney or american will does a nice job.  If you want 1 side jointed, a facer (Porter or Newman) with a spring holdown conveyor  does a nice job on 1 sided facing.  Some guys keep a 4 sided moulder with helical heads to S4S blanks.  For straight edges, a Diehl, Mattison or Mereen Johnson rip saw is just the ticket.  If you are a 1 man operation 5,6,7 head moulders are going pretty cheap used these days.   With the other support equipment you can make stair treads, mouldings, flooring, rosettes, plinths

[Justin L]

We run all our rough lumber though the jointer(with a powerfeed) before planing it. It helps flatten the boards and remove some warp. It can't make a real crooked board straight, but maybe a little more gradual I set mine to remove 1/8", the run though the planer at 1", then flip over and plane at 15/16 for the hit & miss planning. Since most boards have some cup, the jointer only removes the outside edges and the high spots. This gives the planer a smoother surface to start with.

I usually make my mldg blanks 1/8" thicker than the finished size for my 1962  four head moulder. Five or six head moulder is definitely on the wish list.

[Mike_M]

Thanks for all the information. I would at some point like to get a Logosol 4 head planer, but would like to add a jointer to the inventory first. Having been using just a Rockwell 13" planer for lumber that needs planing and it works real well. This planer came out of a High School shop and is a real solid machine. I just recently made a good contact with a guy that wants S4S material and he seems to have a market for it. We will see how it goes, I'm cautiously optimistic.

[scsmith42]

Mike, in addition to the Logosol, I'd recommend that you look at the Baker 4 head machine as well. 

Scott

[Mike_M]

Thanks Scott,
                      I just recently saw the Baker 4 head. Are they comparable in price and performance?

[scsmith42]

Mike, the price is very similar, but I think that the Baker is more machine for the $.