Sharpening Chain with a file

[maple flats]

I think we are getting too complicated. I hand file with excellent results and I follow the ref angle mark on the tooth (Oregon). I file 3 or 4 strokes and then look at the tooth straight on. If it is sharp there will be no glare at the cutting edge, if there is glare take more strokes. With practice you will not need to check each tooth for glare. If you watch closely as you file you can see when the file is in complete contact with the tooth, this is when it is sharp. I do not count strokes but rather watch the file. If a file is not removing filings (cutting with each stroke) get a new file. I have never taken a chain to be sharpened at a saw shop and my chains cut like new after I sharpen them. Practice. I do now use a stump vice, just faster to sharpen for me.

[jokers]

Joker, maybe you hit on what's confusing me. Is the beak the small hook or point that's towards the bottom of the curved part of the tooth? What I'm looking at isn't very large, but it's stopping the file from fitting against most of the curve.

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

That`s exactly what I`m referring to GW. A couple of good firm licks with downward pressure on the file will knock that beak right out of there. You also need to periodically remove the beak that develops as the tooth is filed back even though the file will now fit unobstructed. Because of the clearance angle built into the tooth, the beak if left intact will protrude further than the working corner, preventing it from functioning correctly.

[GW]

Thanks jokers!

[jokers]

Joker, the outside edges and corners are never addressed except to push the filings off of them to get a better look. Following the groove in the tooth takes down the inside faces evenly and the corners and edges take care of themselves. If the inside faces are not filed evenly it showes that a person is not following the guide in the tooth or is using the wrong size file. Which will throught the cutting edges and corners off. If a person has dulled the chain to were they cant even force it to cut there are no good cutting edges and corners to work with, but the inside faces and groove are still there and can be used to bring the cutting edges and corners back to spec. Focusing on the cutting edges and corners is one of the easiest was to mess up when filing a chain.

limbrat,

You continue to do it your way, I`ll do it mine. Everyone else is free to do as they please also. Now isn`t that nice?! 

[limbrat]

fair enuff

[SawTroll]

I've been reading all the posts on sharpening chain.  I thought I was doing a pretty good job.   I just threw a chain last night and it dammaged the drivers so the chain would not fit into the groove of the bar.  So I put on a new chain (anti kickback style).  Wow did the saw cut great.  I'm not sure what I am doing wrong.  I know to set the rakers at the right height and have the jig to do that.  I also have the roller jig pictured below.

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

What am I doing wrong.  I just bought 2 of the woodsman pro chains for my Husky 455 Rancher and will see how they compare.  But I must be doing something wrong.  I'm also not sure what type of file I have been using.   It came in the sharpening kit with the roller jig.  I also bought a dozen files from Baileys as well.  I'm hoping I was using a rough file and the new (better) files will do the trick.  The book "Principles of General Tree Work" says that if the teeth are not all at the same level it will not affect the cutting of the chain.  Is this really true.  Would it make a differece if I took the chain to a shop to have it sharpend by a grinder every once in a while?  what's a good price to have a chain sharpend.  At $12 per chain, I can't see paying more than $6 to get a chain sharpend.

Thanks

Tim

Are you sure that the "jig" and files are the right size for your chains??

Whatever guide you use, to get the teeth really sharp, watch closely what you are doing, and let go of the guides for the finishing stroke(s)....

[tim1234]

SawTroll,

I've been looking into that and there are many different types of these roller jigs.  I am going to order a Husky brand one to make sure it is right for the saw.  Their inexpensive enough that if it turns out that it is the same as the one I've got I'll have a spare.

Tim

[SawTroll]

The blue one is for the Oregon 70-series, and also fits the Stihl 3/8" RS and RM etc, with just slight mods.

File size should be 7/32" for Oregon, and 13/64" (new chain) or 7/32" for Stihl chain.

[craigc]

Just do what Maple Flats says that if great advice I do the same thing 5 days a week in the woods it just a chain guys we arent dealing with rockets here.

[Danny Dimm]

Hears a trick we use for those burred up rackers. Put your chain back on real real slack. Start the saw and rev it for a few seconds. Maybe even make a bit of a cut. Careful to keep the saw staight so the chain dosen't fly off again. The burrs should be gone. Tighten the chain and get back at it.

[beenthere]

Danny
Are talking about the driver links being burred up?
 

[ely]

been there, i would say that is what danny is talking about, cause thats how i do it too