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Author Topic: insulated concrete form house  (Read 2818 times)

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Offline Raider Bill

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #20 on: August 16, 2007, 11:03:19 am »
Did you pour the first course of blocks when you did the floor?
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Offline iffy

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #21 on: August 16, 2007, 11:32:53 am »
No, as I didn't want a cold joint. I do have a cold joint on the frost wall, tho. The frost wall is 30" deep and is constructed with the logix forms also. When I formed it up, I ripped the bottom form so the top of the frost wall form would be flush with the top of the spread footing for the non-walkout walls. I then ripped 1 1/2" off the bottom of the waste portion of the first form I ripped, and set that on top of the frost wall form. I poured the frost wall to this new grade 1 1/2" higher than the spread footings. When I was ready to form the walls, I pried the 1 1/2" spacer off and set the first full height form on top of the frost wall form.
This process served two purposes: first, it protected the frost wall existing form when I backed the well rig over the wall, and also when I used my skid loader inside the basement. Also, the 1 1/2" of concrete sticking up when I pried the spacer off assured that the bottom of the full height wall form would stay in place.
Also, in the area of the frost wall, I pushed 1/2" emt conduit through from the inside form and on top of the concrete in the wall, and made sure it didn't project into the floor area. Then put short pieces of #4 rebar inside the conduit for the floor to bond to. This gave me sort of a floating floor support, as there wasn't a footing in this area to rest the floor on.
Boy, that is confusing.

Offline Don_Papenburg

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #22 on: August 16, 2007, 10:34:23 pm »
Raider , I poured my floors before I did my ICF walls .  I had 4" chanel iron  for forms . Worked out real good .  Then when I poured the walls it pushed the foam tight to the floor.
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Offline Raider Bill

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #23 on: August 20, 2007, 02:02:44 pm »
Thanks guys. trying to get my steps in a row here. Leaving Thursday for 2.5 weeks to get my footers in. MAybe even the floor if I'm lucky.

Does anyone know the correct pitch for a sewer drain pipe that will run under the slab and connect to septic? Does 1 inch per 8 foot seem enough?
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Offline Radar67

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #24 on: August 20, 2007, 02:27:44 pm »
If I remember correctly, it is 1/8 inch fall per 8 foot of pipe. Daren can answer this one for sure.

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Offline iffy

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #25 on: August 21, 2007, 12:36:30 pm »
Code says minimum 1/8" per foot, maximum 1/4" per foot for sanitary sewer.

Offline Raider Bill

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #26 on: August 21, 2007, 01:27:49 pm »
So 1 inch per 8 ft pipe is the answer.
Would a 4 inch pipe be better than a 3 inch?
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Offline tim1234

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #27 on: August 21, 2007, 06:06:51 pm »
As said before 1/8" per foot is the minimum.  1/4" per foot is the maximum.  If you are too flat (less than 1/8" / ft) the liquids go to slow to move the solids.  If you go too steep (greater than 1/4" / ft) the liquids outrun the solids.  If you stay in the range above everything will move at the same speed.  If you need to drop suddenly, run it at a 45° angle to let all the "stuff" fall together.

So somewhere between 1" and 2" of fall for every 8' of pipe.

Tim
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Offline Raider Bill

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #28 on: August 21, 2007, 09:07:45 pm »
What about a larger diameter pipe? Will that help, hinder or doesn't matter?
My idea is to have black water only go to the septic. Gray water will be routed to a sepreate system.
Kubota L-4200, Chainsaw, Bush Hog, and 85 acres of trees I'm not sure what to do with but I sure do have fun!
The First 40 years of childhood is always the hardest.

Offline Furby

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #29 on: August 21, 2007, 10:49:50 pm »
So 1 inch per 8 ft pipe is the answer.

Not really as I don't know anyplace that sells 8' pipe! ;D
It normally comes in 10' lengths, but 20' and even (rare) 40' are out there as well as 5' at the box stores that cost almost as much as the 10'. ::)

Offline tim1234

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #30 on: August 21, 2007, 11:31:19 pm »
Hey RaiderBill,

Thanks for making me feel useful.  I can finally post on something I know about.  Not a plumber, but did replace all the plumbing (including everything else) in my house and did a lot of research.

The best book I fould was "Plumbing a House" by Peter Hemp.  I used it as a field guide while building my house.  I can highly recommend it.  It is from Taunton.

Just curious, are you meaning black water to be solid waste and grey water to be liquid waste?  I would be careful seperating the 2 as you might not have enough liquid to lubricate and push the solids along.  You need an expert opinion on that one.
 
The answer for the size of your DWV (Drain Waste Vent) piping comes from how many fixture units will be flowing through the pipe.

For instance a:

Tub = 2 units
Bidet = 1
Shower = 2
Toilet = 3
Bar sink = 1
Kitchen Sink = 2
Lavatory (bathroom sink) = 1
Laundry sink = 2
Washing Machine (standpipe) = 2

The required size of pipe depends on if the pipe is horizontal or vertical.  Since you are talking about horizontal I'll address that.

Max fixture units for each size pipe:

2" = 8
2-1/2" = 14
3" = 35
4" = 216
(there are exceptions to these rules).

Add up all the fixture units and then you have to use the right size pipe.  Most DWV pipe in the ground is 4" min.  3" is used for some horizontal runs that meet a main 4" pipe under the slab or the main exit of the dwelling.  3" is also used for most vertical stacks since they fit into a regular stud wall (good for 48 fixture units vertical).  The horizontal length of any size pipe is unlimited assuming 1/4" per foot of fall.

Hope this helps.  If you have any more questions, let me know.

Tim
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Offline Furby

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #31 on: August 22, 2007, 06:39:03 pm »
Seperating the grey and the black water really isn't that big of deal.
I don't think most folks run their shower while they flush the toliet, so there isn't much different with a standard hookup and the two seperated.
In fact, it's a requirement to seperate the two in places out West.
They then treat the grey water and send it back to be used as tank water in toliets.
Google: grey water

Offline Raider Bill

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #32 on: August 22, 2007, 09:07:49 pm »
I figure if I only put tolit water in the sptic I'd be further ahead and use the gray water for irrigation or intalkl a dry sink.
MAybe thinking too far into this as I live alone so don't make too much waste.
It will be a 3 bedroom house in case I decide to give to to my son someday.
Kubota L-4200, Chainsaw, Bush Hog, and 85 acres of trees I'm not sure what to do with but I sure do have fun!
The First 40 years of childhood is always the hardest.

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: insulated concrete form house
« Reply #33 on: August 26, 2007, 08:58:11 am »

  Typically, Sanitary goes into the septic. All others go into a different tank for gardens and such.

  Ever check on composting terlits ???  Them requires no water OR Plumbing ???
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