Author Topic: Modat's sawmill (Read 19693 times)

Modat22 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 10, 2006, 08:07:34 pm »

couple more pictures while I wait on a few parts.

axle I want to use.

the shaft is 3 diameters. 1-1/4" min diameter, 1.29" diameter (in the caliber jaws) and 1-1/2" original bearing surface (shiney part)

I think I can use this as my blade height gear box. Just some junk from the pile.

same gear box

My work supervisor, also in the lower left corner of the pick are a few pieces of 2" cold rolled round stock 6 feet long a friend gave me. I'm thinking of using a piece of this as a drive spool for the blade height lift cable. I want to use #41 chain and sprokets for this but money is running out. I can make it chain lift latter.

Also a bit of pipe for a log arch in there (red), also out side of picture I have 5 mobile home axles someone gave me (log arch or something)

thats about everything I have at the moment.

edsaws · « **Reply #21 on:** May 10, 2006, 08:28:25 pm »

Those axles may be ok their hardened so they could be stronger than you think. I like the idea of using the tiller gearbox. I think that will work also just have to do some imaginative engineerin'

Ed

wiam · « **Reply #22 on:** May 10, 2006, 10:20:07 pm »

I personally would give the gearbox a try, but I have found that some cheap gearboxes only have a bearing on one end and a bushing on the other. They are made to go only one way. Let us know how it works.

Will

highpockets · « **Reply #23 on:** May 13, 2006, 07:38:44 am »

Modat, I am not real clear on where you are talking about putting the driven pulley but I wouldn't get it too close the tire if I am understanding you right. I mounted my driven pulley just behind the steel blade wheel. On ocassion I have seen the blade come off and the blade get into the belts. Maybe this is not what your talking about but I just wanted to put my two cents worth in.

Modat22 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 13, 2006, 09:14:21 pm »

Quote from: highpockets on May 13, 2006, 07:38:44 am

Modat, I am not real clear on where you are talking about putting the driven pulley but I wouldn't get it too close the tire if I am understanding you right. I mounted my driven pulley just behind the steel blade wheel. On ocassion I have seen the blade come off and the blade get into the belts. Maybe this is not what your talking about but I just wanted to put my two cents worth in.

I was planning on doing the same, I guess I could place a shield between the belt pulley and the tire though. I haven't done much, rain more rain and a bit of rain on top of that. I did start tearing down that gear box from the tiller though. Its locked up, so I have to dissassemble it to free it up. Took me 2 hours to get one of the tine hubs off so I'll be cutting the others off tomorrow.

Modat22 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 14, 2006, 01:58:15 pm »

I got my main beam mounted on the slides today,

also got the tension slider welded up and mounted on the beam.

Not sure about that gearbox, its 50 to 1 and would be slower than dirt if used for a lift, I'd have to make it motorized to make it practical.

J_T · « **Reply #26 on:** May 14, 2006, 11:59:41 pm »

That axle held a 8,000 lb car and 6 fat men doing 100mph it should work for you

My sawhead I used a 50 to 1 gear box and drove it with a grauge door opener not a house type one but those bigger shop types. I am sure the tiller one will work I had both . Hit my speed about right the first try don't know how

I used 60 chain now I will be working on some pre set's . Don't have much time to work on it but my uncle wants his shop back . Been playing at this thing off and on for a year now . It's hard to run a circle mill, log and invent all at once

highpockets · « **Reply #27 on:** May 15, 2006, 07:37:17 am »

Modat, I think the reduction unit will work ok. If I knew for sure I was going to be coming close to you on our trip, I'd bring you a box. I think I have a couple laying around. Don't know for sure though.

From what I have learned over the past six year of experimenting, slow ain't bad on a raise system. Accuracy is important. I started out using a gearbox with lift chains. It was loaded and sometimes my slides would kind of stick. I then went to a system kind of like a set of lift arms on the back of a tractor. This guaranteed equal force up or down. At that time I decided to use a hydraulic cylinder to work the arm. This proved to be too fast. I finally settled on a hydraulic motor driving a 2:1 ratio 50 pitch sprocket to drive a 1" x 5 t.p.i. acme rod. It is fast enough to work well and slow enough to set accurately.

My suggestion is bolt everything you can so you don't have to cut off things with a torch when you want to modify stuff.

Modat22 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 15, 2006, 12:09:15 pm »

Quote from: highpockets on May 15, 2006, 07:37:17 am

Modat, I think the reduction unit will work ok. If I knew for sure I was going to be coming close to you on our trip, I'd bring you a box. I think I have a couple laying around. Don't know for sure though.

From what I have learned over the past six year of experimenting, slow ain't bad on a raise system. Accuracy is important. I started out using a gearbox with lift chains. It was loaded and sometimes my slides would kind of stick. I then went to a system kind of like a set of lift arms on the back of a tractor. This guaranteed equal force up or down. At that time I decided to use a hydraulic cylinder to work the arm. This proved to be too fast. I finally settled on a hydraulic motor driving a 2:1 ratio 50 pitch sprocket to drive a 1" x 5 t.p.i. acme rod. It is fast enough to work well and slow enough to set accurately.

My suggestion is bolt everything you can so you don't have to cut off things with a torch when you want to modify stuff.

I'm finally getting to a point where I'm uncertain about welds and starting to drill and thread, Thats the good thing about using 1/4" stock (room for threads). I really wanted to go with a chain based lift but really the cash is a problem, so I'm going to start out using cable similar to Edsaws mill with the intent of switching it over to chain in the future.

I'm kinda at a point where I can't do much until I get my v-casters, stub axle and tires. I can't make my motor mounts until I know how my axle is installed and I can't buy my pullies until I have my tires etc. Actually its a bit frustrating, I want to work on it but I can't rush it though I want too

I want to start sawing.

other problems I'm having
1. Is finding help moving the parts around, its so heavy I almost get a hearnia trying to muscle parts around for welding.

2. I'm fighting rust, building this outside means loads of exposure to water and then rust. So I'm painting welds as fast as I can.

I'll probably be asking you guys to check my math when it comes time to pulley selection, I hope you don't mind

Anyway, thanks for the moral support and the information its going to be very helpful.

Modat22 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 15, 2006, 04:43:23 pm »

Woo hoo. Got some parts in today!

Modat22 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 17, 2006, 09:35:34 pm »

I put a boat wench on my lift today,. Its temporary. I need to rethink my lift system a little bit and I still wanted to be able work on other things thus the boat wench lift mechanism. If I could figure out how to make the boat wench lift everything accuratly I'd probably stick with it but I kinda like the duel cable or chain idea better.

woodbowl · « **Reply #31 on:** May 17, 2006, 11:17:44 pm »

Quote from: Modat22 on May 15, 2006, 04:43:23 pm

Woo hoo. Got some parts in today!

Modat, where did you get your "V" rollers and how much were they?

Modat22 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 18, 2006, 07:55:17 am »

Quote from: woodbowl on May 17, 2006, 11:17:44 pm

Quote from: Modat22 on May 15, 2006, 04:43:23 pm
Woo hoo. Got some parts in today!

Modat, where did you get your "V" rollers and how much were they?

I got them from www.northerntool.com v casters 4" 20.99 each.

They're not bad though the supports they are on are only but welded on one side. IMO a person might want to put a bead weld on the unwelded side before using them. But they are enameled and greasable. Over all a pretty nice caster.

sawguy21 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 18, 2006, 09:52:10 am »

What does your significant other have to say about the boat wench

Modat22 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 18, 2006, 11:58:15 am »

Quote from: sawguy21 on May 18, 2006, 09:52:10 am

What does your significant other have to say about the boat wench

Whoops, I guess that would be a sub conscience slip and or wishful thinking.....

Modat22 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 19, 2006, 02:26:00 pm »

Does this pully size sound right based on this calculation?

motor 2500 rpm
4 inch motor pulley
15.75 inch drive wheel pulley
tire diameter = 28inches

2500 X 4 / 15.75 x 3.1416 x 28 / 12 = 4654 fpm band blade speed.

I had a fella tell me to shoot for a blade speed of 4500 to 4800 with my 20hp motor.

Sound about right?

RichlandSawyer · « **Reply #36 on:** May 19, 2006, 03:14:46 pm »

Howdy Modat22,

2 x Pi x 14 = 87.92 wheel circ.

15.75 / 4 = 3.9375 sheave ratio

2500 / 3.9375 = 634.921 wheel rpm

634.921 x 87.92 = 55822.254 inches/min

55822.254 / 12 = 4651.8545 fpm

Looks like you're on the money.

Modat22 · « **Reply #37 on:** May 19, 2006, 03:20:14 pm »

Quote from: RichlandSawyer on May 19, 2006, 03:14:46 pm

Howdy Modat22,

2 x Pi x 14 = 87.92 wheel circ.

15.75 / 4 = 3.9375 sheave ratio

2500 / 3.9375 = 634.921 wheel rpm

634.921 x 87.92 = 55822.254 inches/min

55822.254 / 12 = 4651.8545 fpm

Looks like you're on the money.

Thankyou sir!

Going ahead and ordering my pulleys

Part_Timer · « **Reply #38 on:** May 19, 2006, 05:18:41 pm »

Sounds like your well on your way.

you'll be making lumber in no time

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #39 on:** May 19, 2006, 06:07:20 pm »

Motor is only rated at 2500 RPM

Most are close to 3600 ??

News:

Author Topic: Modat's sawmill (Read 19693 times)