Newby Brit needing advice

[andysheffield]

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and looking for some advice as to the purchase of a chainsaw.  I'm going to be using it for cutting felled wood for firewood, probably not going to tackle anything over 40" diameter and have zero chainsaw experience.  Any advice on what saw to buy and where to get some good safety advice much appreciated!

Nice to meet you all and any help recieved with thanks

Andy.

[Tom]

There's some real "users" here on the chainsaw forum and they will be glad to help you determine a saw to use.

As far as safety is concerned, look for threads on that subject here as well. 

There are a several good , on-line "schools" by individuals, as well as some pretty good information given by the OSHA and the Canadian equivelant as well.   

I know it sounds a lot like "don't go into the water till you know how to swim", but don't take on anything questionable with your new saw until you have gotten input from an experienced professional as to how.  As a matter of fact, don't stop with one, Just because someone gets paid to do a job, doesn't mean that they do it right.  It won't take you long before you are weeding the wheat from the chafe and know who is giving you the right skinny.

You will find threads like this:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=17590.msg86455#msg86455

[TexasTimbers]

I am not all that great at chainsaw advice but I am fairly okay at making my cousins from across the pond feel at home.

Well. You'd be ashamed to claim me because I sound like I am from the bowels of Totnes.

Did you know when the Ark Royal put into port at Norfolk Va. in December of 1975 there someting like ?? (many) pubs on her?

Y'all take your rum and beer seriously!

Oh yeah on the chainsaw I'd say on a log already on the ground like that you can get way with a 346xp.

[pineywoods]

First thing to learn, hopefully not by experience....chainsaws bite

[andysheffield]

There's some real "users" here on the chainsaw forum and they will be glad to help you determine a saw to use.

As far as safety is concerned, look for threads on that subject here as well. 

There are a several good , on-line "schools" by individuals, as well as some pretty good information given by the OSHA and the Canadian equivelant as well.   

I know it sounds a lot like "don't go into the water till you know how to swim", but don't take on anything questionable with your new saw until you have gotten input from an experienced professional as to how.  As a matter of fact, don't stop with one, Just because someone gets paid to do a job, doesn't mean that they do it right.  It won't take you long before you are weeding the wheat from the chafe and know who is giving you the right skinny.

You will find threads like this:
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=17590.msg86455#msg86455

Thanks for the welcome and advice Tom, its much appreiated.  I am aware this is a dangerous business and the more advice the better, hence joining this excellent forum.

[andysheffield]

I am not all that great at chainsaw advice but I am fairly okay at making my cousins from across the pond feel at home.

Well. You'd be ashamed to claim me because I sound like I am from the bowels of Totnes.

Did you know when the Ark Royal put into port at Norfolk Va. in December of 1975 there someting like ?? (many) pubs on her?

Y'all take your rum and beer seriously!

Oh yeah on the chainsaw I'd say on a log already on the ground like that you can get way with a 346xp.

Kevjay, I have to honestly say I have no idea what a 346xp is..hence I'm here.  As to beer..*DanG right we do 

I'm a newby brewer (logging and brewing being my new current projects for self sufficency) but have found a great forum for brewers at http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/index.php - daab is a bloody genius and I'm sure any logger interested in brewing would be more than welcome.

Many thanks for the welcome,

Andy

[sawguy21]

Welcome Andy. There is lots of information and even more opinions in earlier threads here on saw selection. I would suggest looking for a well stocked service dealer and talk to him. The Husqvarna 346XP is a great saw in the hands of a pro but may be overkill in your case as it is not inexpensive. The Husky 359 or Stihl MS361 with an 18" or 20" bar would be worth looking at if they are available in your area, I am assuming you are dealing primarily with hardwoods 

[Tom]

This statement is to be tempered by the guys who know, but, I was told, when I was looking for a saw for using around the mill, to shop for one in the 4 cubic inch range that would carry a 20" bar.  Taking that info to the sawshop that was recommended, I was sold a Husky 61 in 1993.  I've loved it.  That saw has been discontinued but these guys can probably tell you of a comparable saw.  It's great for limbing, bucking, firewood and strong enough to do the tough work of splitting logs for the mill if necessary.

[TexasTimbers]

. . . .
I am not all that great at chainsaw advice . . . . . .

Andy I think this might be the most accuratre thing said thus far  
I would defer to these fellers for sure.

[FioreIndiana]

Hello, It is best to go with one of your nearest local chainsaw dealers.  That way you can later buy more accesories and if you have a problem they will have the parts to repair correctly and quickly.  Stihl, Dolmar, or Husqvarna are what most profesional users like to have around here.  Tools as most things in life you usually get what you are willing to pay for so do not try to get a deal on a cheap piece of junk.  Just buy quality the first time and take care of it. It will hopefully last a lifetime.  Just get the best you can afford.  If you have a Stihl dealer I would recommend a MS361 for a great all around chainsaw.  Dont forget if your life is worth more to you than your money to get saftey eqipment: Hard hat, googles, ear muffs, cut resistant pant covers, cut resistant gloves.  Please remember more people are injured with a chainsaw than any other power tool.  For homeowners it is probably a good idea to get saftey chain at first.  Later when you feel more comfortable operating a saw you can get other chains.  Cutting wood is my favorite work to do.  Good luck and please reply as to which chainsaw you purchased.

[joe_indi]

Andy,
If you are the  novice that  you say you are, go for a non-professional saw till you have learned the ropes.
I would suggest the MS250 with a 16" bar running a Picco Micro chain.
It has ample power for cutting firewood. The 16" bar should see you through the 40" diameter without too much effort.
The Picco chain is ideal because it is designed for  low kickback.At the same time it cuts very fast.And its easy to sharpen.
Consider a bigger saw once you have got used to handling this one.

[jokers]

As a guy who has cut far too much 40" wood I would suggest that you leave it lay where it is and go for the smaller firewood. 40" rounds are usually more work than they`re worth, especially if using a hydraulic splitter. Handsplitting around the edges is less work believe it or not.

If you had stated an expected range with a narrower span I could make a saw suggestion but in my opinion a saw well suited to 40" diameter wood is typically quite a compromise when used on wood up to 20" and vice versa.

[rebocardo]

> and have zero chainsaw experience.  Any advice on what saw to buy
> and where to get some good safety advice much appreciated!

Skip the bigger trees, start with a small consumer saw that makes it harder to kill or injure yourself that comes with

1) a hand brake
2) safety chain (usually marked by a 93 or 91vs stamping or green packs with Stihl)
3) low kick back bar - usually a narrow bar with small tip

Stick to trees in the 2-10" range. Certainly, a 3" tree is big enough to kill you if it falls on you. You are less likely to have a tree spilt on you in this range too.

Buy these things and use them

1) hard hat helmet with face shield and earmuffs
2) safety chaps
3) steel toe boots
4) good chainsaw gloves

I highly recommend a peavy, though I didn't have one for a few years and used a six foot breaker bar to move logs.

4) peavy or cant hook - the longer the better
5) cell phone

Read the instruction manual that comes with the saw.

Read about chainsaw safety on the OSHA site (sorry, dont have the direct links handy right now)

Search here on the word "barberchair" to see one of the worse mistakes to avoid. Then search for "spring pole".

I would suggest buying from a local dealer. I have a Stihl MS-180 and I think it would make a good -first- saw. It has enough power to handle small trees, but, not enough where you could kill yourself easily by accident if it jams in a kerf.

It is easy to handle for practicing making notches and backcuts. Easy to change the chain. One main use I have for it is making cuts next to houses or chainlink fences where a bigger saw might be too tough to hold, I wouldn't want the kickback if it hit something, or the tree is too small to safely cut with a bigger saw.

Take learning to use a chainsaw as learning to ride a motorcycle.  Much safer and easier to start with training wheels, then a ten speed, then an ATV, and then a small CC bike then to hop unto a two wheel motor bike, say a  rice rocket that does 0-60 in 3 seconds, the first time and expect not to fall and get hurt.

Plus, you will find sooner or later, you will have to pull down a stuck tree. Much easier to pull down a stuck tree with a small 4x4 in the 10" range then a 40" tree.

I agree with the larger trees being more work then they are worth for firewood. You need much more powerful splitters to handle rounds in the 24"+ range. I know even slicing them down to 8" thick the splitters from Home Depot choke on sweetgum in the 28" range. I end up having to split those with my chainsaw. Plus, moving large pieces of wood takes a fair amount of effort.

The other thing is, if you have large trees and end up really getting into this chainsaw thing, you will kick yourself many times for turning 40" logs into firewood ... when you could have waited a few years later and turned them into much more profitable lumber 

ALWAYS LOOK UP BEFORE CUTTING and be sure to move when the tree starts to fall.

[Timburr]

Hi Andy, welcome to the forum.

I'm going to be using it for cutting felled wood for firewood.

Would I be correct in presuming that someone else is felling the trees and you are cross-cutting into firewood?  Is it for own use or are you going into business?

Either stage your logs of the ground.  If you catch the dirt with your saw, the chain will dull in a trice.
Or saw the log _3/4 of the way through, roll the log untill the 'uncut' is on top and saw out.  Same reason.

A tidbit of perspective from 'this side of the pond'!!   You may or not be aware, in the UK, it's illegal to use a chainsaw on another's property, unless you are kitted out with safety gear (chainsaw helmet, trousers / chaps, boots and gloves).  The relevent chainsaw certificate / license is also a requirement.  It's fine if you are cutting on your own land.

On a lighter note, promice us you'll keep the "brew testing" and the chainsawing in 2 different counties 

Cheers Tim

[Kevin]

From Manchester, England ...

I know there is a college in Derby [Broomfield College] which is about an hour or so away. There will be an independant training provider closer than that though, but I wouldn't know who or where.

Another ...

There is a couple of companies in Holmfirth which is only half an hour away. PM me if you want the details

If you want more info on this one I can get contact information from the guy who sent it to me.

[andysheffield]

Hi all, many thanks for all the advice.  Having taken it into account I've decided to start small and build my skills with something managable.  I've gone for a Stihl 170 with a 14" blade and will be using it to tackle in the first instance bucking some moderate sized hawthorne on my land that my neighbour has kindly felled for me before moving onto felling myself.

Your advice is much appreciated and I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers

Andy

[Tom]

Keep your chain sharp, don't get in a hurry, and it will do admirably.

[andysheffield]

Keep your chain sharp, don't get in a hurry, and it will do admirably.

Thats good to know Tom.   

I wasn't 100% sure if I'd gone too small but then thought, what with ebay might as well start small and work my way up, it's not like anything you look after is dead money these days.  Plus if I'm going to make beginners mistakes then better with a small saw than a big.

I've also purchased an Aussie chainsaw safety book which has alerted me to numerous hazards and a good fun read by and American father and son about cutting for fuel(ThBackyard Lumberjack by Frank and Stephen Philbrick).  So when I fire her up tommorow I'm green but at least aware I'm green and what messups to look out for.

[rebocardo]

> that my neighbour has kindly felled for me

It is great to have good neighbors 

[Tom]

Andy,
It is my humble opinion that one of the most important features of an education is to recognize that you don't know everything before you start. The most important feature about learning is to keep from inventing the wheel as few times as possible.

It sounds to me as if you have it all in hand. 

[andysheffield]

> that my neighbour has kindly felled for me

It is great to have good neighbors 

My neighbour is fantastic, he's also the most gungho nutter in the village hence I was asking for advice from you guys as he wears a flat cap as PPE, that's it.  I'm no shriking violet, 9 years in the Parachute Regiment but one thing that's taught me is respect a new tool you have not used and get training and advice on using it, whether it is a GPMG or a chainsaw.  My neighbour is going to give me some practical training tommorow prior to me being let loose so with a bit of luck I'll have the hawthornes bucked and split by sundown.

[andysheffield]

*DanG I enjoyed that!  Best fun you can have with your clothes on, and my body is still in one piece.  Loved the sawing and the sheer noise and power of the saw, but have to say splitting was so much fun...put my mind in a very relaxed state and so satisfying when the log cleaves and blasts appart.

Andy has a big [I have typed a profane word that is automatically changed by the forum censored words program I should know better]-eating grin tonight

I think I'm an addict!

[Timburr]

Yes, once we get that addiction to wood fibre, there's no known cure to man or beast

Occasionally, when I have isolated parcels of firewood to hand split, I find it's a very theraputic way of venting the spleen.  All anxieties in life just wane and wither away.  Take that Fred!  Here's one for you taxman!  Take that *&<%#^............    and the added bonus is, split firewood.

Now that your'e a budding chainsawyer, be aware of complacency.  I've been using a chainsaw for many a year and they still scare the DanG scrapola out of me!

[andysheffield]

Thanks for the advice Dan, I'm on a newbie high now but fully seized of the fact that this is the most potentially lethal to me tool I've ever handled (GPMG's are very bad news for the other fella but handled right present no threat to the trained machine gunner who is aiming it at the other fella)

I can't describe the buzz I've got from today..you probably know from when you first took up the saw and maul..but I'm one happy (but safety concious) camper

[WDH]

AndyS,

Several people have told me that I need to get a hydraulic firewood splitter.  However, I agree with you and Timburr and others.  There is something about splitting firewood with an axe or maul with your own bare hands.  Makes me feel good (and tired, which is not a bad thing) .

[leweee]

Something primal bout hand splitting wood.

[WDH]

It makes food taste better .