Best under $400 chainsaw

[zaharia]

Hi guys
I'm in the market for a chainsaw and was about to buy a Stihl MS 250 C-BE with 18" bar. I thought I would post here first though to avoid a mistake. I am only a home user, but don't like cheap tools. At the same time, $400 is the max I want to pay for a saw.
Sa far it looks to me the above Stihl or perhaps the Husky 350.
Any others I should consider at the $400 mark? I know the Husky is about $100 cheaper than the Stihl, is it a better saw even though it's cheaper?
Cheers.

[Jeff]

zaharia, what will be the primary use for your saw?

[windthrown]

The MS250 is OK, but on the light end of the c-saw spectrum. I have an MS210 (250's baby brother with same chassis) and it is good for small diameter tree thinning, limbing, and brush. Light enough to swing around and not get tired using, but not a whole lot of power. The 250 weighs about the same, but has 50% more power (3 HP vs 2 HP) and better engine components. 

At the $400 price there are some really good saws out there. The Dolmar 5100s would be a good choice to look at. You can get them online for under $400 (Amicks lists them for $389, and you can get them down to about $350 new on Ebay and some other online shops).  One pound heavier than a MS250, but it has 4 HP compared to the 3 HP of the MS250. It is well liked by many that use them, and they really rip through wood. Makita bought Dolmar and they are again available and selling in the US. The dealerships are sparce though, and Dolmar has been around before and then disappeared form the US market. The Dolmar saws are also newer models and as yet unproven over time.

As someone else posted, it would depend what you want to use the saw for, and if you have a Dolmar dealer near you (or you can work on the saw yourself if you do not). If you want a Stihl, you may even want to look at a MS290 instead of the MS250 if you are cutting larger diameter stuff. The MS290's sell for about $350. A lot of pros do not like them and call them 'boat anchors,' but I love mine. They are the best selling saw that Stihl makes. It is a lot more saw than an MS250 and can do a lot more and carry a standard size bar (3/8 guage .050). I have a 20" on my MS290 most of the time. Heavier than the MS250, but for felling and bucking and cutting firewood that is not a big issue. Different (larger) class of saw.

I do not know much about Husky saws, but there are some in that line for less than $400 as well that will do a great job cutting wood. I do not like outboard clutches on chainsaws though, and Husky (and Echo) has them on many of their saws. 

[zaharia]

zaharia, what will be the primary use for your saw?

Like I mentioned, I am just a homeowner who wants a decent chainsaw. Right at the moment I might be just cutting down a few very small diameter trees on my lot, branches, demo on a couple of decks, possibly some firewood, etc. Nothing major, but I would like to get the best I can for under $400 which is what the Stihl 250 C-BE goes for. Also, want something dependable and fairly easy starting. Don't know what I might use it for in the future though, so a little overkill now might pay off later. 

[rebocardo]

I wanted a saw in the 18" range for a backup saw and for making difficult cuts where holding the heavier Husky was too dangerous (example from the wrong side of the tree with the saw "upside down" for the back cut with a 28" bar).

I considered everything, including the Poulan 18" Wildthing and Husky 350.

I went to the Stihl dealer and ended up with the Stihl MS-270. Seemed like enough power to cut the white oak in a pinch and agile enough for what I needed. I do think the Husky 350 has a bit more power, though it feels heavier too. With the 18" bar, both saws spec almost exactly the same on paper. Bailey has them for around $300.

If you are cutting 16" and under hardwood on an occassional basis (use the saw four times a month) and 20" in a pinch the MS-270 will be fine.

If you want it just to drop the occasional tree and cut it up and some branches, then the MS-180 would be fine. I have dropped oaks in the 12" range and cut them up with the MS-180 when I didn't want to walk back to the truck or refuel.

The MS-180 really woke up with the chain I bought from Baileys.

MS-290 on paper is more powerful and cheaper then the MS-270. The MS-290 is normal stock, the MS-270 is not. I like both saws. Just what I picked on the dealer's recommendation for a light saw for backup and topping trees for occasional 3-4 hours of use. I wanted 18" and light more then anything.

In the end I went with Stihl to support my local dealer, since they dropped Husky. Otherwise I probably would have gone with the Husky 350 so all my chains were 3/8 50 gauge.

My dealer always has a huge hardwood log out front so you can test anything up to 36". Might be worth it to test it and then buy it at a dealer like that, comparing the saws side by side since the differences between the weights and power is subjective to what you expect and the price differences are not that big in the Stihl line for the 18"-20' saws.

[beenthere]

zaharta
Whatever the brand, get the one that has some good dealer back-up for ya when ya might be needin it. That'd be the primary goal in my mind, for recommending to others without firm brand name already in mind. I've had no reason not to stick with Stihl. Others have firm belief in other brands. 

[zaharia]

There seems to be a number of Stihl dealers arouind me. I wonder about the Stihl 290 vs the Stihl 270 CB? I wonder for about the same price if the extra features of the 270 would make up for the slight difference in power between the two? I'll have to check out that Dolmar 5100. I am in the Seattle Area. (Bothell) I'll have to see if there is a dealer or somewhere to service near me.

[limbrat]

Another bump for Dolmar  Ps.510, Sachs Dolmar 120, Ps.7900 there all good.

[sawmilllawyer]

As far as dealer support I'm with beenthere. I have had very good results w/ Stihl. Although more than $400.00 you could get the MS-260 which is a pro model saw, and for what you are intending to cut might be a better choice. Have'nt worked with the Dolmar line of saws but have heard good things about them. Happy Hunting.

[luke2]

  I have owned or ran most of the saws mentioned. Easy choice,,,, 5100.

[Dale Hatfield]

Please whatever saw you buy. Please buy the safety equipment thats needed to run a chainsaw . A hard hat  with  ear muffs and a face shield along with safety glasses. As well as a pair of chainsaw chaps. A cheap investment . For the protection provided.
Dale

[windthrown]

There seems to be a number of Stihl dealers arouind me. I wonder about the Stihl 290 vs the Stihl 270 CB? I wonder for about the same price if the extra features of the 270 would make up for the slight difference in power between the two? I'll have to check out that Dolmar 5100. I am in the Seattle Area. (Bothell) I'll have to see if there is a dealer or somewhere to service near me.

Personally I would avoid the CB model of Stihl saws. The chain adjuster is funky on the CB, and I think you are better off $-wise and quality over time with a standard Stihl slot screwdriver side chain adjuster. My 2 cents worth. I have never used either of the 270 or 280 models. Can't say good or bad about them.

[windthrown]

Please whatever saw you buy. Please buy the safety equipment thats needed to run a chainsaw . A hard hat  with  ear muffs and a face shield along with safety glasses. As well as a pair of chainsaw chaps. A cheap investment . For the protection provided.
Dale

Have to agree on the safety issue. I wear safety glasses, ear plugs and leather gloves at all times, and heavy leather shoes or boots (steel toes help). I wear chaps if I am not wearing my knee-high boots and a hard had if I am felling more than 20' trees or limbing. I do not use a face shield, but I am old and ugly, and I have a heavy beard. I also always wear a back brace, and forearm straps for tendonitis. Also keep the chains nice and sharp so you do not have to over-work the saw.

[thecfarm]

Welcome to the forum,zaharia.If I was buying a saw I would look for dealer support.If you like them,buy from them.

[zaharia]

From the comments on here and searching the forum it seems like the Dolmar 5100s is heavily favoured. Think I'll be picking that one up. Will also look into the safety gear. As far as servicing goes, can any Dolmar seller service it or do you have to have it serviced where it was purchased?

Thanks guys.

[SawTroll]

...
Personally I would avoid the CB model of Stihl saws. ....

Yes, I agree, avoid!   

[Jeff]

I don't know a thing about Chainsaws but I have been happy with my home owner saw.  Its a Husky Rancher. It has compression release so my worn out shoulders appreciate that. Since I bought it used, it's a third pull cold starter every time. first pull choke, second pull it fires, third pull push in the choke pull and its running. First pull starts after that.  Its plenty big enough for any chore that I have ever needed it for.

[zaharia]

Decided on a Dolmar 5100s. Should have it by the weekend.
Thanks guys.

[luke2]

Good decision. Remember it will take a while to break and run to its potential. Mine really picked up after about 10 tanks.

[jokers]

I don't know a thing about Chainsaws but I have been happy with my home owner saw.  Its a Husky Rancher. It has compression release so my worn out shoulders appreciate that. Since I bought it used, it's a third pull cold starter every time. first pull choke, second pull it fires, third pull push in the choke pull and its running. First pull starts after that.  Its plenty big enough for any chore that I have ever needed it for.

Jeff,

It`s my opinion that since the era of the 55 the differences between homeowner and pro saws have become more distinct. You got a good one.

[jjmk98k]

I have worked my Husqvarna 350 a good bit for general homeowner / camp / firewood / tall tall trees stuff and have been VERY pleased with it.

Another nod for the safety equipment as well! invest in good gloves, eye and ear protection at a minimum....  also have a good pair of work boots....

READ THE USERS MANUAL AND BE FAMILIAR WITH THE SAW, read on proper tecniques for the chore at hand.....

I dropped my first 7 big trees with no other schooling than a book, patience and a game plan..... by the 4th tree, i was placing a 2 liter bottle out and coming darn close to making the trees fall close to it..... no one got hurt, nothing got broken...

[SawTroll]

I don't know a thing about Chainsaws but I have been happy with my home owner saw.  Its a Husky Rancher. It has compression release so my worn out shoulders appreciate that. Since I bought it used, it's a third pull cold starter every time. first pull choke, second pull it fires, third pull push in the choke pull and its running. First pull starts after that.  Its plenty big enough for any chore that I have ever needed it for.

Jeff,

It`s my opinion that since the era of the 55 the differences between homeowner and pro saws have become more distinct. You got a good one.

Yep!

[SawTroll]

Good decision. Remember it will take a while to break and run to its potential. Mine really picked up after about 10 tanks.

Good decision, yes! 

...but I think it may need closer to 20 tanks for full breakin, at least the US dealer that sold me one said so.

[windthrown]

Yah, good advice on the 5100! Even if I advised it (and the advice was free).

As for breaking her in to get full power, it will be several tanks of gas before the rings seat completely and it have better compression.

Hey Troll, you finally get that 5100 for the Saw Witch? How does she like it? 

[zaharia]

Got my 5100S.  I have a question regarding oil. Maybe a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway. I bought some of the new Stihl HP Ultra synthetic oil. It says it is JASO FB and API TC/TC+ certified, but doesn't mention ISO-L-EGD certification on the bottle or website. The manual for the Dolmar says the oil needs to be ISO-L-EGD certified as well as JASO FB. Is it safe for use in the 5100S? Got it because I will use it in a Stihl blower I have as well as a Stihl 4-mix trimmer I am picking up next week and want to use the same mix.
EDIT: Seems from info I found on the internet that ISO-L-EGD is a higher rating than JASO FB, so I imagine that it should be okay?
"The highest JASO rating is "FD", which equals the ISO-L-EGD rating. Lower ratings are "FC", "FB" and "FA." 

[windthrown]

ISO and JASO are different standards but both should be fine in air-cooled chainsaw engines. Some oils have been tested with both, some one or the other, and some oils like Stihl and Husky do not list the rating but would probably pass (like Stihl orange bottle oil). Often times Stihl, Husky and some others do not send their oil in to be tested becasue it costs more money and they have to spend more on quality control and testing the oil, and pass the cost on to you. The real issue is to avoid blue goo that is not only TC/TCW-3 water-cooled type. Those oils are blended to have different ash and lubrication qualities, and work at lower temperatures. They may mess up an air-cooled 2-stroke engine over time (some swear that they cause real engine problems). There are also some all-aound 2-stroke oils out there that claim they run in air and water cooled engines, but I would avoid them.

You should be fine with that Stihl stuff. I am surprised that they only have an FB rating though. Most of the types available at Home Depot (Echo and Homelite, for example) have both ISO and JASO FC certified ratings and are specifically made for air-cooled 2-stroke engines. Using them will not void your warantee. Currently I am using Castrol JASO FB rated air-cooled oil in all my 2-stroke engines (Stihl, Echo, & Homelite). I was using Stihl orange bottle oil, but they lack a standard certification on it, so I flipped to reasonably priced certified oil that I can depend on. The lubrication is about the same in JASO FB and FC, but the smoke factor is better in FC than FB. FA has considerably less in both smoke and lubrication qualities, so I avoid it. I also mix my oil at about 45:1 which is more low-end and bearing friendly. A tad more smoke, but I would rather have an engine that lasts longer. A lot of pros around here drop it to 40:1 to get better lubrication and longer engine life.

Also use super gas. Do NOT use regular gas. You can get by with mid-grade (most saws made today call for mid-grade), but over time sitting in a gas can the octane will drop. So may as well spend a little more and get better gas and keep your saw happy. Most saws do better with higher octane, and I am sure that the Dolmar 5100 is pretty high strung. Higher octane gas will avoid pre-ignition and burn more evenly. This will avoid flares and uneven burning in the combustion chamber and your engine will run cooler and better as a result. I add a stabilizer to my gas as well to keep the carbs from gumming up over time. That stuff will keep gas fresh for up to 2 years. I think that Stihl adds a gas stabilizer to their oils though, so you may not need it.

Have fun with the Dolly. Report back on its performance!

[SawTroll]

... Hey Troll, you finally get that 5100 for the Saw Witch? How does she like it? 

She like it very well, and so do I.....   

It is set at 14200rpm for run-in, so far.