Author Topic: Chainsaw Milling Options . . . (Read 1588 times)

TexasTimbers · « **on:** April 17, 2007, 09:54:20 am »

I know this has been kicked and kicked but I have a slightly different angle I think than has been openly discussed at length anyway.
I was getting an education yesterday from Dan Henry and learned that my 395XP was another bad decision for what I am trying to do. I will have to relegate that saw to a max 50" bar and felling and bucking big stuff with smaller bars when I want tons of power for that purpose, but putting a 72" bar on it and expecting good results even after some mods is not cost effective compared to getting a 090, or an 070 and putting an 090 jug and piston on it.

So this brings me to the question of wondering if it is a good idea to come back from south of the border with more than one 090 or 070. I wonder what the demand would be if 090s or 070s with the upgrade (which is then essentially and 090) would be?

After talking to Dan it seems a no brainer that as much as I like Husky the 090 (or 070 with 090 jug & piston) is the ultimate chainsaw for milling.

Since I am not a hardcore brand guy (I just want the best saw in its class) I have ruled out a 3120 out of hand.

Does anyone have hankering to get their hands on an 090 besides me? I am not far from the border and me and the missus need a mini-vacation.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #1 on:** April 17, 2007, 10:04:28 am »

are there customs problems with getting them back across?

Ed · « **Reply #2 on:** April 17, 2007, 10:06:48 am »

You may find a used 090 south of the border, but you will probably be dissapointed if you expect to get a new one. I belive Stihl used to list a 076 as still available in Mexico, but it's debatable if they really are.

One the other hand, I would like a new ms380......

Ed

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #3 on:** April 17, 2007, 10:16:13 am »

My understanding is no problems with customs. My understanding is also that 090s and 070s - new, are still available. Hoping on a phone call or email today or tomorrow to know for sure.

I have a friend who owns a trucking business and brings back the products that the Hispanic community demands in the DFW area. He is one of the largest Red Bull distributors in the world. He says if the saws are avaialable and I have trouble getting them across to let him know.

Tony_T · « **Reply #4 on:** April 17, 2007, 12:00:07 pm »

Do you have to run 0.404 chain on a 090? Will be making a lot of sawdust milling if so.

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #5 on:** April 17, 2007, 12:06:12 pm »

I think so TT but I am in the learning stage on these big Stihls. Just to clarify, I am not wanting to get into millling becuase i am unaware of the downsides. I am. It's just`that in order for me to set these slabs free, I have no choice. these crotch logs are up to 6' and some on the stump wider. I don't have any economical choice that I am aware of they cannot fit on my mill.
i don't mind all that waste in the kerf as I will be quartering the slabs I knock of the crotch slabs and milling those into lumber and samller tops on the Woodmizer.

Ironwood · « **Reply #6 on:** April 17, 2007, 01:31:03 pm »

Kev,

I have two 394's. Sometimes I run them singly sometimes tandem. What is the problem? I have used them for years and years. Skip tooth chain might help, but honestly what's the big deal? I have a 6' bar for the one and a 32" for the other when I am not milling. I AM CONFUSED, to think of all the lumber I cut was wrong?

Anyhow, good luck with whomever this "expert" is. (sorry I had to say that)

I do have friend who has a pair of hardly used 075 AV's that he milled with 15-20 years ago. I can call him if your interested.

Reid

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #7 on:** April 17, 2007, 01:48:10 pm »

I'm not saying you are wrong Reid. I have qualified everything I have said by stating I don't have any experience chainsaw milling.
The closest thing i have done is some freehand ripping with the 395 with a 36" bar on some test logs that I didn't mind screwing up. I guess technically that means I have dome some milling but I still don't consider myself as being a chainsaw miller yet.
I have always given alot of weight to what you say because I respect oyour opinion. This is no different, but i have talked to other millers who have not had had your success at all with using 394s and 395s (and even quite a few who have 3120s) as used for chainsaw milling on really long bars.
Coupling that with my own taste with a 36" bar on red oak and I think the 090 is really what i want.

I'm certainly not questionoing your experience your work speaks for itself.

Ironwood · « **Reply #8 on:** April 17, 2007, 03:55:03 pm »

Kev,

I am not being critical of YOU. Just be aware that there a ton of experts out there that say this or that. But really what are they experts at? Engines? Do they do what you want to do. I have had nay sayers all my life say this or that "can't be done", "won't work", "shouldn't try that". In nearly every instance it worked, got done, I tried it and LIKED it to boot. Shoot come to think of it I'm glad they are out there, that has put a good bit O'Cash in Me pocket over the years.

Listen, unless your cutting dry Mesquite, try it, for the cost of a chain and a bar, D$%^ it might work. You already own the saw that just may work!

Trust me I'm not offended, they shouldn't be either if you try it and it works!

Also, consider this: It is all in technique. I am not saying you/ me could do it with an 372XP, but if they can't get it done with a bigger saw, perhaps they should leave the bars hooked to a dedicated slabber or something. I have seen some folks who just don't have the touch for running equipment ( for some, equipment of any type) Just a thought

reid

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #9 on:** April 17, 2007, 04:04:11 pm »

okay what the heck. i will put the 50" bar to a red oak candidate i have in the yard suited for that length. if that works out I'll throw the 72" on and tackle the big red mutha beside it. the only reason i didn't want to take a stab at the 72"is because I was told (there's that phrase I have always detested but I am in really gray water in a specialed field here) that it will not oil properly and since I will be freehanding with it I can't put an oiler on it.
But as you sadi one time bars are relatively cheap.

This nasty weather will have to pass but as soon as I can get to it I will make a video of my attempt. Should make the coroner's job easier during the investigation too.

Ironwood · « **Reply #10 on:** April 17, 2007, 04:07:48 pm »

OH, Yeah, also, strap a 12" termite block to your backside if'in your not blessed with a big back side. Buy a bar that can also be used on the bigger saw if you need to go there. My 6' freehand bar has a solid tip and has last for years and years. Reid

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #11 on:** April 17, 2007, 04:34:15 pm »

Your talking Greek to me bro but it sounds like somethig I need to know. What is a termite block?
My long bars are also solid tips.

Ironwood · « **Reply #12 on:** April 17, 2007, 04:35:41 pm »

Kev,

Your question should be "where do you find a bar like that? " Mine is a Husky. Solid tip (read no sprocket, can run stihl or husky chain) and has a universal mount (slot). I am not sure if they're still available. Old days, you used a "S" spring to fill the slot. I made a crude piece of flat bar stock fit. If you can't find one call me. Buy a 72" bar, you will sooner or later want a longer one. If you want I will take a new one and my older universal will fit your Husky or a Stihl if you need to "go there"

Termite block is a solid cement block.

Reid

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #13 on:** April 17, 2007, 04:54:07 pm »

Okay I follow you on the termite block for sure. I am not a large specimen and in fact am a fellow of quite small stauture. A little putz that will need maybe two blocks

But my saving grace has always been that I am too stupid to know I could not do "big man things" and fortunately I am also real hardheaded about not giving up so I am gonna try this even though common sense dictates otherwise.

I held the 395 out at arms length with the 50 inch bar attached just now, to see if I can even hold the thing out steady like that. The good news is I was able to do it with a little to spare. i held it for quite a few seconds without busting a family jewel. The bad news is i don't know if that little bit left in the tank will be enough to do the same with a 72" bar.

If i pull the first one off I will maybe go back to the weight pile for a few weeks before I tackle the 72".

My long bars are 50" and a 72" GB Professional Titanium with the inserts you describe. They do not have sprockets and accept any chain.

I will also need a couple of termite blocks to stand on to get started.

Tom · « **Reply #14 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:07:12 pm »

Kevjay,

Keep in mind that free-handing doesn't restrict you to a horizontal bar configuration. Climb up on top of that sucker and let gravity help a little bit.

Ironwood · « **Reply #15 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:44:33 pm »

Vertical is the ONLY way I can run my 72" alone (no helper handle) otherwise the chain pops off

. I have wrapped it around my legs at least once.

Reid

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #16 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:59:33 pm »

Kevjay, what did they say the problem was with running the 395? Not enough power? I would think that with the full skip chain and a little patience you could saw anything. We have a twin 394 mill and run the full skip chain and I think the bar is about six feet. There is someone nearby that is running an 090 on a bar that must be seven feet or more, that thing looks like a handful. Today I was cleaning up a couple of red oak logs to fit on the WM with my Husky 66 and 32" bar. Despite using full comp felling chain, it really had no problems doing it,and this is with a small saw. I look forward to hearing your test results.

Dave

Tony_T · « **Reply #17 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:40:58 pm »

If you just need to halve/quater the log why not use a shorter bar and cut it in half from both sides? Even if you are off a bit in intersecting the cuts, some wedges and a sledge hammer should get things apart. You will be using a much smaller bar while taking the smaller cut so oiling will not be such a problem and you can get away with a smaller powerhead too.

Ironwood · « **Reply #18 on:** April 17, 2007, 07:47:36 pm »

Tony, My impression was he wanted to mill large flat slabs. Reid

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #19 on:** April 17, 2007, 08:47:27 pm »

Quote from: Tom on April 17, 2007, 05:07:12 pm

Kevjay,

Keep in mind that free-handing doesn't restrict you to a horizontal bar configuration. Climb up on top of that sucker and let gravity help a little bit.

That's the way I am going after it Tom. Horizontal freehand with tthat much metal is out of the question for me.

News:

Author Topic: Chainsaw Milling Options . . . (Read 1588 times)