Author Topic: Competition Crosscut saw sharpening (Read 1794 times)

Straubies · « **on:** March 05, 2003, 11:51:12 am »

Our college's woodsmen team is getting ready for a competition in maryland on the 5 or 6 of April, and are looking for someone who can sharpen competition crosscuts. It would be nice if in the Northeast. But any kind of connections would help.
THanks
Straubies

beenthere · « **Reply #1 on:** March 05, 2003, 01:34:51 pm »

Now I thought that was part of the competition - sharpening the cross cut before the "race".

But good luck to you and the crew.

Are you wanting to send the saw away, or learn the technique? Or both? Seems you want to be careful, as someone doing the sharpening could sabotage your success by making the job look good, but causing the saw to cut poorly.

Reminds me of competition back in the early 60's referred to as the Forestry Conclave, and in Michigan when I went. Interesting times. Seems Purdue must have spent a lot of class time getting their crew ready to compete. We had no support from the Forestry staff, and in fact, we were discouraged to take the time away from studies. Had fun though.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2003, 03:23:38 pm »

Back in the Dark Ages, when I was in school, I think there was a guy up in Maine.

You may want to check with the Forestry Dept down at Penn State. I don't know if they still have a woodsmen's team or not. We used to have Tri-state meets with Syracuse and West Virginia. The Big 10 could have squashed that, by now.

Another resource would be the Northern Logger's Assn. They cover all the competition in the Northeast, and should be able to give you a heads up. email: NELA@Telenet.net FAX 315-369-3736 Phone: 315-369-3078

Where's the competition?

Straubies · « **Reply #3 on:** March 06, 2003, 04:33:41 am »

Thanks for the leads, this is our 3 competition since i've been going to school. I don't think Penn State has a team any more its pretty much their branch campus Mont Alto that has the team and let me tell you. They come prepared. I think they actually get credits for the meet and practices.
But we went down to the cradle of forestry in North Carolina and there was 2 teams from NC, a team from Virginia a team from Maryland and us and Penn State Mont Alto. We had a blast, but pretty much got blown out of the water.
Whenever i figure how to get the size of the photo's smaller i will post some.
The college that is hosting this years meet is Alleghany Community College.

Ron Wenrich · « **Reply #4 on:** March 06, 2003, 01:53:22 pm »

When I went to Mont Alto, we had woodsmen's competition for the whole campus. My particular niche was burling. It was a big log, and I always took the big end, so I won.

But, the competition also had events for the ladies. We had Jack and Jill sawing, greased log, and a few others that they competed in. A really great time.

When at Penn State, we also went to other colleges for competition. We did one stint at University of Maine, and another at McGill University outside of Montreal (in January).

We never did exceptionally well in the competition, but usually won the drinking contest in the evening.

Straubies · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2003, 05:00:15 am »

Sounds just like us, we took 4 out of 5, our teacher might have been out to win, but we defenitally weren't. They might have showed us up at competition, but they couldn't hold a candle to our drinking!!

Jeff · « **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2003, 10:13:54 am »

I have several saws here that wish I new how to set and sharpen. I have one cedar saw that will cut yet. Any general instructions out there for setting and sharpening a two man saw? I don't want to race anybody but my daughter stacy on the other end.

beenthere · « **Reply #7 on:** March 07, 2003, 01:06:29 pm »

If I remember right,its just cutters and rakers, and depending on how aggessive you want to cut (and rake), you set and sharpen to accomplish the goal. The aggressive part converts to work on each end.

If the saw is in bad shape, then jointing the teeth first is probably the best first step. Then the rakers should be filed down to below the cutters, with a cutter set for each side of the cut. Years ago I picked up a crosscut at an auction and it had been mis-sharpened a lot, so the jointing step was necessary before any sharpening could begin.

Now if I can just find my sharpening books, I may be able to add to that with something more profound and helpful.

Jeff · « **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2003, 01:08:19 pm »

Will I need special tools I will HAVE to have, or are there ways I can do it without?

beenthere · « **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2003, 01:14:31 pm »

No special tools (as long as a good flat file isn't considered special

) and a hand set that will work on the long cutters.

A tool to hold the jointing file is handy but can be fashioned out of a block of wood (don't want to see any more "teeth in the flesh" tricks, for you especially).

Jeff · « **Reply #10 on:** March 07, 2003, 01:20:11 pm »

I dont have a hand set, can a set be fashioned from a piece of iron plate with a bevel on one edge and a tooth pounded to that angle or am I way off in understanding how to put set in these saws?

beenthere · « **Reply #11 on:** March 07, 2003, 01:34:38 pm »

There are special tools available for jointing, sharpening, and setting crosscut saws (Simmonds, Stanely). However, with care these things can be done without the special tools, and your method of setting the teeth may well be a way to do that. I haven't tried it that way though. I believe I used my Stanely saw set and a flat file. A way to mic the teeth as you sharpen to get them at the right (desired) height would help the process.

Bro. Noble · « **Reply #12 on:** March 07, 2003, 02:04:12 pm »

Jeff,

Your plate with the bevel could not be shaped just like you want the tooth because the tooth will spring back. You have to bend the tooth farther than the desired set. I think the same rule would apply (concerning the amount of set) as with band blades-------half the width of the tooth should be set past the body of the blade.

I've seen saw sets made out of a metal bar with a slot sawed in the end. A longer bar gives more control and accurach. You need to have a way of pulling it the same amount for each tooth.

As far as racing the person on the other end, you could sharpen your side of the teeth more than theirs but seems to me like you would still finish at the same time

Noble

Jeff · « **Reply #13 on:** March 07, 2003, 02:34:28 pm »

It would be an endurance race. The first one to give out loses.

That'd be me bob.

Here are a few that I would like to get started on.

beenthere · « **Reply #14 on:** March 07, 2003, 03:07:46 pm »

Hopefully you can stumble on some of the special old sharpening tools at locations where you are finding some of these old saws. They should be around.

Jeff · « **Reply #15 on:** March 07, 2003, 03:56:24 pm »

I see saw sets, but I am never sure if they are for these type of saws.

RMay · « **Reply #16 on:** March 07, 2003, 06:39:06 pm »

Jeff you my have a setter it looks just like your setter gauge you use on a circle saw .It is called a spider gauge it my not be the same kind . I will see if I can find mind .

Don P · « **Reply #17 on:** March 08, 2003, 05:39:32 am »

I've got a reprint of the 1902 Disston Handbook for Lumbermen. Its showing about 20 different tooth configurations. It does show the spider (they call it a set guage) for checking the set. Set is done by hammering on an beveled set block with a light hammer. the edge of the tooth is projecting off the block at least 1/4 inch and the tooth is struck back in the rear area. It is checked with the set guage and side dressed.
The height of the rakers is slightly below the cutters. On one pattern "The Great American" "The outer teeth of each section being straight, or at right angles to the pull of the saw, causes them to take a deeper hold in the fiber of the wood, while the middle or regulating teeth determine the extent of the cut in proportion to the bevel of said tooth. The more the center tooth is bevelled the faster the saw cuts; whereas, if the center tooth is filed square the saw takes less hold on the log, and requires less muscle to drive it. Thus the saw can be regulated to suit the strength of the persons working it." (This is a 3 pointed tooth section)
The Lumbermen, a 2 tooth section, says. "In filing this saw, the round edged file should be used, and by pressing a little downward as well as sidewise the tooth is kept in the same shape it leaves the factory."
Jeff's narrow blade is called a Triumph in this book. "These saws have been made by us for many years. Being narrow, they are not liable to bind by the kerf closing and are particularly adapted for cutting down trees and sawing off springy timber."
The tools for sharpening are the jointer, side dress, cleaner tooth guage( for raker lowering), setting block, and setting guage.

Sawyerfortyish · « **Reply #18 on:** March 08, 2003, 04:37:17 pm »

Anybody thats interested the tools for setting sharpening and maintaining crosscut saws can be bought online at www.crosscutsaw.com as well as the saws and a lot of other things it,s worth the look. My wife got me a saw reconditioning kit for Christmas but it,s been to cold to try my luck at this.

Jeff · « **Reply #19 on:** March 08, 2003, 07:40:45 pm »

Hey, way cool link. Thanks! I just spent my mad money on a negative or I would be ordering me a reconditioning kit right now!

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Author Topic: Competition Crosscut saw sharpening (Read 1794 times)